中餐亦‘鹹’亦‘健康’
When I have Chinese food in the United States, I sometimes go for something lighter, like chicken with garlic sauce. But other times, I may want Sichuan-style dumplings in hot oil, or a crunchy, deep-fried, spicy dish, such as sesame chicken.
在美國吃中餐的時候，我有時候會選擇清淡點的菜品，比如魚香雞丁。但有時候，我會選擇川味熱油拌餃子、油炸餃子、芝麻雞等麻辣菜。
I think you can find something on any Chinese restaurant menu in the US that will suit your dietary needs. But a New York health blogger who recently began serving what she calls "feel-great" Chinese food got a heaping serving of social media outrage this month.
我想，在美國任意一家中餐館的菜單上，你總能找到適合自身口味的菜品。紐約一名健康博主最近開始推廣其稱之爲"感覺良好的"中餐，但卻在社交媒體上引發了憤慨。
Nutritionist Arielle Haspel opened the Lucky Lee's restaurant in Manhattan on April 8. (Lee is her husband's first name.) "We heard you're obsessed with lo mein but rarely eat it," Lucky Lee's wrote in a since-deleted Instagram post. "You said it makes you feel bloated and icky the next day? Well, wait until you slurp up our HIGH lo mein. Not too oily. Or salty."
營養學家阿里埃爾·哈斯佩爾（Arielle Haspel）於4月8日在曼哈頓開了一家名爲幸運李（Lucky Lee）的餐館（她的丈夫姓李。）"聽說你很喜歡撈麪但卻不經常吃，"幸運李餐館的Ins上寫道（該文已刪除）。"因爲你說吃完撈麪的第二天會變得臃腫、粘膩。額，還是等吃完我們的奢侈撈麪再評價吧，不油也不鹹。"
And: "This entire menu is gluten-free, dairy-free, wheat-free, corn-free, peanut cashew & pistachio-free. … We use non-GMO (genetically modified organism) oil& never refined sugar, MSG (monosodium glutamate) or food coloring."
而且："整個菜單都不含麩質、乳製品、小麥、玉米、花生、腰果和開心果。我們選擇非轉基因油炒菜，決不使用精製糖、味精（穀氨酸鈉）和食用色素。"
Netizens lashed out, accusing Haspel of disrespecting Chinese food and culture.
但卻遭到了網民的攻擊，他們指責哈斯佩爾不尊重中國的飲食和文化。
Here's a sampling:
指責內容如下：
"Not only is she using Chinese food stereotypes/naming, she is shaming traditional Chinese food cooking."
"她不僅利用了中餐的刻板印象/菜名，而且還不尊重傳統的中餐烹飪方式。"
"Do it without dragging down an entire, diverse cuisine representing billions of people."
"不要拉低代表數十億人的多樣化美食的檔次好嘛！"
"If you are going to take up a cultural group's food, do it some justice by not marketing your 'differentiation' with language that further reinforces stereotypes/racist perceptions."
"如果你打算接受一個文化團體的食物，那就不要通過言語營銷你的'不同之處'，不要進一步的加深刻板印象或種族主義觀念。"
The restaurant responded on Instagram on April 9, acknowledging "there are cultural sensitivities related to our Lucky Lee's concept". Chinese-American food was a "big and very happy part" of the couple's childhoods, they said, coming together in "the ultimate melting pot" of New York.
該餐館於4月9日在Ins上回復，承認"幸福李餐館所崇尚的概念具有文化敏感性。"美式中餐是這對夫妻童年時代的"重要部分，也是極爲幸福的一部分"，他們說道，最後成爲紐約"終極大熔爐"的一部分。
"We thought we were complementing an incredibly important cuisine, in a way that would cater to people that had certain dietary requirements," Haspel told The New York Times.
"我們以爲我們正在補充一種非常重要的美食，可以滿足有着特定飲食需求的消費羣，" 哈斯佩爾對《紐約時報》說道。
