36小時玩轉柏林 36 Hours in Berlin
There are few cities in the world that transform themselves as profoundly from season to season as Berlin. The purgatorial winter, with its lightless days and frigid nights, gives way to four months of balmy intoxication. Cafe and gallery culture spills out into graffitied alleyways; the parks fill with techno D.J.s, nudists and picnicking families; and young people arrive by the planeload from Brooklyn, Copenhagen and East London to take part in an open-air night-life scene that is equal parts “Paris Is Burning” and “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” But even as the hype of the last decade has made the city a magnet for tourists, Berlin remains a place for the strange and libertine, where the radical left still nips at the heels of neoliberalism, where snapping photos in public is often more taboo than smoking a joint, and where people seldom ask what it is you “do.”
世上很少有城市會像柏林那樣，在不同的季節中，出現如此巨大的轉變。煉獄般的嚴冬，以及昏暗的白日與寒冷的夜晚，爲芳香宜人令人沉醉的四個月讓開了道路。咖啡館與畫廊文化蔓延到一條條遍佈塗鴉的小巷中；公園內到處都是電音DJ、裸體主義者和野餐的家庭；年輕人搭乘飛機，從布魯克林、哥本哈根和東倫敦遠道而來，加入到這裏的露天夜生活中，場面堪比《巴黎在燃燒》(Paris Is Burning)與《仲夏夜之夢》(A Midsummer Night’s Dream)。但是，儘管過去十年裏的大肆炒作讓柏林對遊客產生了莫大的吸引力，這裏依然是一座屬於怪人與浪子的城市，激進左派仍在緊咬着新自由主義的痛腳不放，在公共場合拍照常常會比抽大麻更加忌諱，人們也很少會過問你是幹什麼的。
Friday
週五
1. Volk on the Water | 3 p.m.
1. 活在水上的德國人：下午3:00
Come summer, Berlin’s 122 miles of inner-city waterways turn into a thoroughfare thronged with kayaks, tourist vessels and the occasional party raft. A one-hour boat tour starting and ending at the Hauptbahnhof pier, offered by Reederei Riedel for 12 euros a person (about $12.75 at $1.07 to the euro), allows you to take in the city’s historic center while relaxing with brezel and bier. You’ll pass the Reichstag, Germany’s Norman Foster-redesigned house of Parliament, once burned down by the Nazis as part of Hitler’s government takeover and later bombed by the Allies; the old border crossing at Friedrichstrasse station known as the (Palace of Tears) where East Germans once bid doleful goodbye to their Western visitors; and Museum Island, which houses the city’s great collection of antiquities. Check out progress on the Stadtschloss, or City Palace, the massive, controversial project to resurrect Berlin’s imperial palace, scheduled for completion by 2019.
夏日在即，柏林共計122英里長的城市水道變成了一條通路，擠滿了橡皮船、觀光船和偶爾出沒的救生筏。裏德爾遊船公司(Reederei Riedel)提供從中央碼頭出發，航行一小時後再回到中央碼頭的航船路線，每人收費12歐元（按1.07美元兌換1歐元計算，約合12.75美元），讓你可以一邊愜意地享用扭結麪包和啤酒，一邊遊覽柏林的歷史中心。你會途經由諾曼·福斯特(Norman Foster)重新設計的議會大廈——德意志國民議會(Reichstag)，這棟大廈曾在被希特勒政府佔領時慘遭納粹焚燬，後來又遭到了同盟國的轟炸；東西兩德的舊邊界則位於弗里德里希(Friedrichstrasse)車站處，這裏有一棟名爲“淚宮”()的建築，當年東德就是在這裏與西德的來訪者哀痛道別的；還有博物館島(Museum Island)，這裏存放着這座城市裏大量的寶貴古董。再去看看城市宮殿(Stadtschloss)的修建進度，這是一項引起諸多爭議的大型建設工程，旨在重現柏林的帝國皇宮的往昔風采，預計將於2019年竣工。
2. Orient on the Canal | 5 p.m.
2. 運河上的市集：下午5:00
Every Tuesday and Friday, the Turkish Market spreads out along a stretch of the Landwehr Canal in the fast-gentrifying “Kreuzk” neighborhood, where the old leftist-bohemian district of Kreuzberg meets Neuk, an area long populated by Turkish, Kurdish and Arab immigrants. Residents descend on market days, as louche Australian graphic designers and matriarchs in headscarves haggle with men hawking their wares in a loud Turkish-German patois. Tucked among the produce, spices and textiles are unexpected delights: artisanal Dutch licorice; quark, a fermented dairy product, flavored with rhubarb or dark chocolate; and locally designed jewelry. Afterward, cross the Kottbusser Bridge for a drop-in at Hard Wax, a revered record store in a canalside courtyard that’s still a haunt for the D.J.s and audio geeks who fuel the city’s electronic music scene.
在迅速實現“紳士化”的時尚地標克羅伊茨克爾恩(Kreuzk)附近，每逢星期二和星期五，土耳其市集(Turkish Market)都會沿着蘭德維爾運河(Landwehr Canal)一字排開，古老的左派波希米亞區克羅伊茨貝格(Kreuzberg)，與長期居住着土耳其、庫爾德和阿拉伯移民的地區新克爾恩(Neuk)，就在這裏發生了交集。居民在市集開張的日子裏蜂擁而至，品行不端的澳大利亞平面設計師和裹着頭巾的女家長，在一片嘈雜的土耳其口音德語方言中，與擺攤的商販們討價還價。在一堆農產品、香料和紡織品之間，藏着教人意想不到的收穫：手工荷蘭甘草糖，奶渣（經過大黃或黑巧克力調味的發酵乳製品），還有本土設計的珠寶首飾。隨後，穿過Kottbusser Bridge，去逛一下Hard Wax，這間備受推崇的唱片店就坐落在運河岸邊的庭院裏，依然是DJ和音頻發燒友的必去之地，爲這座城市的電子音樂加油。
3. Neue Deutsche Küche | 7 p.m.
3. 德國新美食：晚上7:00
Only in recent years has Berlin’s food culture begun to catch up with its other creative outpourings. The current bellwether is Nobelhart & Schmutzig, opened by the sommelier Billy Wagner, who previously helmed the Michelin-starred Rutz Wine Bar. Diners fill 26 counter seats that wrap around an elegant open kitchen, where the staff prepares a prix fixe 10-course meal of Nordic-inflected new-German cuisine (80 euros). Surprising, delectable dishes — like raw char filled with brown butter-braised bread crumbs or celeriac soup poured over lamb fat jelly and green peas — uproot all notions of pork and sauerkraut. Reservations essential.
直到最近幾年，柏林的飲食文化才終於開始追趕其他那些創意泉涌之地。當前的業內佼佼者是品酒師比利·瓦格納(Billy Wagne)開的Nobelhart & Schmutzig，他以前是米其林級餐廳Rutz Wine Bar的掌門人。餐廳內共有26個吧檯坐席，繞着一間格調高雅的開放式廚房排成一圈，餐廳的工作人員就在這間廚房裏，爲客人準備一客共含10道菜的北歐風味新式德國美食（80歐元）。教人驚喜的是，這些美味佳餚，比如用生鮭魚做餡的黑黃油燜麪包渣，或者是羊脂凍配青豌豆澆芹菜湯，徹底拋棄了用豬肉和德國泡菜製成的所有傳統菜式。一定要提前訂位。
4. Beau Monde Booze | 10 p.m.
4. 上流社會的酒宴：晚上10:00
Grab an exotic nightcap at Le Croco Bleu, a rakish cocktail bar that opened in 2013 in the cavernous former engine room of the 19th-century Brewery building in Prenzlauer Berg. The newest venture by Gregor Scholl, the man behind the cultish Westend bar Rum Trader, Le Croco Bleu has the feel of a postindustrial curiosity cabinet: teardrop crystal chandeliers, exposed pipes, disused machinery, taxidermied beasts and glass vitrines of aged liquors. But the cocktails are the main event. Mixed with alchemical precision, the monthly rotating selection features rare extravagances like the Prince of Wales, a heady mix of Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Dry Orange , DOM Benedictine and Champagne.
普倫茨勞貝格(Prenzlauer Berg)有一棟建於19世紀的文創中心大樓B琀稀漀眀 Brewery，當中有一間洞穴狀的輪機房，在2013年時被改建成了一間風格俏皮的雞尾酒吧Le Croco Bleu，可以來這裏要一杯充滿異域風情的睡前酒。吸引了一羣狂熱信徒的西區酒吧Rum Trader，背後的男人名叫格雷戈爾·舍爾(Gregor Scholl)，Le Croco Bleu正是他的最新產業，這裏的氣氛彷彿後工業時期的古玩店：淚狀水晶枝形吊燈，暴露在外的管道，廢舊的機械，用剝製法制作的野獸標本，還有陳列着陳年烈酒的玻璃櫥窗。但是雞尾酒纔是這裏的主角。這裏對勾兌精確度的講究堪比鍊金術，酒單每月輪換一次，爲客人呈獻難得的奢侈調酒“威爾斯親王”(Prince of Wales)，這杯令人醺醺然的佳釀用皮埃爾費朗干邑1840(Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac)、幹橙力嬌酒(Dry Orange Cura愀漀)、法國廊酒(DOM Benedictine)和香檳酒勾兌而成。
5. Modern Times | 10 a.m.
5. 藝術的摩登時代：上午10:00
What city experienced the 20th century with more ferocity than Berlin? See that history refracted in two starkly different art collections. Reopened in 2015, the refurbished public Berlinische Galerie houses works by 20th-century artists of the Berlin Secession, Expressionist, Dada and New Objectivity movements: the haunting Weimar-era oil portraiture of Otto Dix, George Grosz’s pen-and-ink prostitutes and automatons and Hannah radical photomontages, among other gems (entrance, 8 euros). Then, if you’ve wrangled a spot on the monthlong waiting list, fast-forward to the 1990s and beyond with a visit to the Sammlung Boros, a stunning private collection housed in a former Nazi bunker, which includes vivid installations by Olafur Eliasson and Ai Weiwei, the photographer Wolfgang Tillmans’ intimate portraits of ’90s club kids (and Kate Moss) and works by the Welsh conceptual artist Cerith Wyn Evans (entrance, 12 euros).
還有哪座城市在20世紀經歷過的暴行比柏林還多？這裏有兩組完全不同的藝術品，可從中一窺歷史的痕跡。翻修後於2015年重新開張的柏林畫廊(Berlinische Galerie)，存放着在20世紀的柏林分離派、表現派、達達主義和新客觀主義運動中涌現的藝術家的作品：在諸多珍品當中尤爲值得一提的，有奧托·迪克斯(Otto Dix)令人過目難忘的魏瑪時期肖像油畫，喬治·格羅茲(George Grosz)的水墨作品妓女與機器人，還有漢娜·霍克(Hannah H挀梔)那些先鋒的蒙太奇攝影作品（門票：8歐元）。然後，如果你能想辦法在長達一個月的等待名單上爭得一席之地，不妨參觀一下波洛斯私人收藏館(Sammlung Boros)，去往20世紀90年代以及更現代的時期。這是一間令人驚豔的私人收藏館，坐落在一座戰爭時期的納粹掩體內，館內既有奧拉維爾·埃利亞鬆(Olafur Eliasson)和艾未未創作的個性鮮明的裝置藝術作品，也有攝影師沃爾夫岡·提爾曼斯(Wolfgang Tillmans)爲90年代的俱樂部兒童（還有凱特·摩斯[Kate Moss]）拍攝的私人攝影，以及威爾士的概念派藝術家塞里斯·懷恩·埃文斯(Cerith Wyn Evans)的作品（門票：12歐元）。
6. Stone Age Brunch | 1 p.m.
6. 舊石器時代早午餐：下午1:00
The paleo diet has taken hold in Berlin thanks largely to Sauvage. The restaurant serves up dishes like roasted bone marrow on rosemary-and-cassava-flour toast and paleo pancakes made with tiger nut, chestnut and cassava. Brunch is about 15 euros.
舊石器時代的飲食已在柏林生根發芽，這在很大程度上都要歸功於Sauvage餐廳。這家餐廳供應的都是迷迭香木薯粉吐司烤骨髓，或者用油莎豆、板栗與木薯製成的原始煎餅這類菜餚。早午餐價格約爲15歐元。
7. Artful Lots | 2 p.m.
7. 愜意的綠化地：下午2:00
In 2009, a group of ambitious gardeners took over a vacant lot in Kreuzberg and began its transformation into a social-urban-agricultural venture, Prinzessinnengarten, that is now one of the city’s loveliest green spaces. Compost beds burst with organic herbs and vegetables. There’s a wooded garden restaurant and cafe, a recycling center and spaces for workshops and community events, such as a recent collaboration with a refugee organization whose protests against German asylum policy have thrust the issue into the public eye. The creatively inclined should cross the street for a browse through Germanic art supply heaven. Planet Modulor, a multistory “creative department store,” includes a bookstore, a cafe and a 3-D printing studio that will transform your snapshot into a photorealistic sculpture.
2009年，一批心懷壯志的園丁接手了克羅伊茨貝格的一塊空地，開始將它改造成一處社會化城市農業的試驗田“王子花園”(Prinzessinnengarten)，如今則已成爲這座城市裏最爲可愛的綠化環境之一。堆肥田上長滿了有機香草和蔬菜。園內有一間藏身於樹林花園的餐廳與咖啡廳，一處回收中心也可用於開展工作坊與社區活動，他們最近就與一個抗議德國難民政策的難民組織組織了一場聯合活動，將這個問題推入了公衆的視野。喜歡創造性事物的人，應該走到街道對面，瀏覽一下日耳曼藝術的搖籃。Planet Modulor是一間跨越數個樓層的“創意百貨商店”，內有書店、咖啡廳和3D打印工作室，能將你的圖紙轉化爲栩栩如生的實物模型。
8. Fame on the Spree | 9 p.m.
8. 河上餐廳：晚上9:00
Fame, a restaurant inside a repurposed railroad storage facility that juts over the Spree, is the newest venture from the collective behind the techno club Bar25, which anchored the after-hours scene of the 2000s. Bar25 was shuttered as part of the controversial Mediaspree project, a city initiative to develop property once part of the “death strip” between East and West Berlin. The group wrested the site back from developers and opened Fame last May, along with a nightclub next door called Kater Blau. The electric-kool-aid-carnival-shack aesthetic prevails, and the restaurant’s Spree-side terrace alone makes it worth a visit. The rotating menu features dishes like mascarpone polenta with raw marinated Beelitz asparagus, and Argentine beef fillet in red wine reduction. Dinner for two with drinks is around 100 euros. Afterward, have a go at Kater Blau or any of the other clubs that line the riverbanks of Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg.
Fame餐廳位於一間架空在施普雷河(Spree)之上，翻修自鐵路倉庫的建築，是電子音樂俱樂部Bar25的經營團隊最新開拓的又一項產業，目標瞄準了晚上8點以後的下班時間。Bar25在備受爭議的施普雷媒體工程(Mediaspree)中關門大吉，該工程倡議在東西柏林之間原有的這塊“死亡帶”上興建物業。這支團隊從開發商手中爭回了這塊土地，於去年5月開了這家餐廳Fame，同時還在隔壁開了一間夜總會Kater Blau。這間配備了各種酷炫電子設備的狂歡小屋所呈現的美學大受顧客歡迎，光是架空在施普雷河畔之上的露臺就讓這間餐廳值得一遊。定期輪換的菜單提供的菜餚有馬斯卡普尼乾酪玉米粥配生滷貝利茲蘆筍，還有阿根廷牛柳配紅酒。兩人份晚餐加酒水約爲100歐元。其後，可以去Kater Blau或弗里德里希斯海因和克羅伊茨貝格的河畔上的任何一傢俱樂部。
9. Honor your Elders | 10 a.m.
9. 向畫廊中的長者致敬：上午10:00
They may lack the grandeur of old masters collections in other cities, but the medieval and Renaissance European paintings at the must be some of the world’s most alluring. Organized geographically and chronologically, the collection includes works by Caravaggio, Rubens and Raphael, but it’s the eastern half of the museum holding the 13th- to 17th-century German, Dutch and Flemish works that will take your breath away. Inscrutable beauties gaze out from religious works by Lucas Cranach the Elder. The sideways glance of a Hanseatic merchant seems to one-up his detractors across five centuries in a portrait by Hans Holbein the Younger, and Petrus Christus’s eerie Netherlandish maidens and demons evoke Bach, heavy metal and Alexander McQueen. Admission, 10 euros.
這裏或許缺少其他城市有的那種壯觀華麗的老一輩大師作品，但是柏林畫廊(Gem氀攙攀最愀氀攀爀椀攀)裏的中世紀油畫和文藝復興時期的歐洲油畫，一定是世界上最有魅力的收藏之一。這些藏品按創作地點和時間順序排列，其中不乏卡拉瓦喬(Caravaggio)、魯本斯(Rubens)和拉斐爾(Raphael)的佳作，然而它還只是這座博物館的東半翼而已，整座博物館裏收藏着13世紀至17世紀的德國、荷蘭和佛蘭芒的作品，足以教你歎爲觀止。老盧卡斯·克拉納赫(Lucas Cranach the Elder)的宗教畫中，高深莫測的美女眺望着畫外的地方。在路邊對漢薩商人的匆匆一瞥，就讓小漢斯·霍爾拜因(Hans Holbein the Younger)畫出了一幅肖像畫，在整整五個世紀裏都遙遙領先於他的批評者們。而彼得魯斯·克里斯蒂(Petrus Christus)筆下怪異的荷蘭少女與惡魔，則教人想起了巴赫(Bach)、重金屬和亞歷山大·麥昆(Alexander McQueen)。門票：10歐元。
10. Bangkok in Berlin | Noon
10. 柏林裏的泰國公園：正午
Every Sunday, in the sleepy western district of Wilmersdorf, a giant open-air Southeast Asian food market known as Thai Park unfurls across leafy Prussian Park. Thai women stir-fry over hot plates, pour milky, pumpkin-colored Ceylon tea over crushed ice, and huddle over great wooden bowls whipping up spicy papaya salad. Nothing costs more than 10 euros, but like many of Berlin’s best local hangouts, Thai Park is plagued by rumors of imminent shutdown, so visit while you can.
每逢星期日，在懶洋洋的維爾默斯多夫(Wilmersdorf)，規模巨大的東南亞露天食品市場“泰國公園”(Thai Park)，會在枝繁葉茂的普魯士公園(Prussian Park)內徐徐展開。泰國女人們在熱鐵板上煎煎炒炒，往碎冰塊上澆上牛乳狀的南瓜色錫蘭茶，從堆放的大木碗裏盛起辣木瓜沙拉。泰國公園裏的任何消費都不超過10歐元，但就像柏林當地許多最好的遊玩場所一樣，這裏也同樣爲各種即將關閉的傳聞所擾，所以趁着還有機會趕快去吧。
11. By Field and by Sky | 2 p.m.
11. 田野旁，青空下：下午2:00
In a city known for its unorthodox use of public space, two recent repurposings still surprise. Tempelhofer Feld, the grounds of the megalithic, bullet-pocked Nazi airport where American servicemen once airlifted goods to West Berlin during the Soviet blockade, is now a park. In summer, it transforms into a Teutonic sports-scape where locals engage in activities you didn’t know existed (inline-skate-hang-gliding, anyone?). Then, for a Narnia-like experience, take an elevator to the top of a parking garage in a shopping mall in Neuk. Follow the international cool kids, local families and graying ravers to Klunkerkranich, which sprawls across the roof like a slightly debauched summer camp, replete with bar, club, cafe, sandbox, arts space and a 360-degree view of Berlin.
在一座以對公共空間的使用不循常規而著稱的城市裏，最近的兩項改造工程依然令人意外。藤珀爾霍夫區(Tempelhofer Feld)是一座石頭砌成、彈孔遍佈的納粹機場，美國軍人曾經在蘇聯封鎖期間，從這裏將貨物空運到西柏林，現在這裏則成了一座公園。每逢夏日，這裏便會化身爲日耳曼人的運動樂園，供本地人開展各類你連聽都沒聽過的活動。（單排輪懸掛式滑翔，有人聽過嗎？）然後，如果想要感受一下納尼亞傳奇般的體驗，可以搭乘電梯登上新克爾恩(Neuk)一間購物中心的停車場頂層。跟着來自不同國家地區的新潮兒童、本地家庭和老年舞者們，走入Klunkerkranich，這所建築橫臥在天台上，就像一座略嫌驕奢的夏令營，裏面建有酒吧、俱樂部、咖啡廳、沙坑、藝術空間，還可以觀賞到柏林的360度風光。
The newest addition to the Turkish luxury hotel chain, Titanic Deluxe Berlin (49-30-2014-3700; ) opened this March in a newly renovated landmarked 19th-century building that once housed the costumes of the Berlin State Opera. Amenities include a 1,000-sqare-meter spa with a hamam and a restaurant run by popular local Turkish restaurant Hasir. Doubles in September start at 190 euros.
土耳其豪華連鎖酒店的最新成員Titanic Deluxe Berlin (49-30-2014-3700；)於今年3月份開業，坐落在剛剛經過裝修的一棟19世紀的地標性建築，曾經用來保存柏林國家歌劇院的服裝。酒店設施包括一座1000平米的水療中心，內有一間公共澡堂，還有一間餐廳，由當地倍受歡迎的土耳其餐廳Hasir經營。9月份的雙人間價格爲190歐元起。
Almodovar Hotel, a 60-room eco boutique property that opened three years ago in the Friedrichshain district, combines smart, pared-down design with a focus on environmental sustainability that stretches from the textiles to the lighting to the organic, vegetarian breakfast spread. Double rooms in September start around 100 euros.
阿莫多瓦酒店(Almodovar Hotel)是一間共有60間客房的生態精品酒店，已在弗里德里希斯海因區開業三年，採用智能精簡設計的同時，也將焦點放在環境的可持續性上，從紡織品到照明再到有機素食早餐。9月份的雙人間價格爲100歐元起。
