如何用36小時玩轉巴黎左岸

While the Right Bank of Paris has seen internationalism and the irrepressible rise of “bobos” (the Parisian form of hipsters) change its landscape in recent years, the Left Bank has been able to preserve the soul of the French capital. Walk through the Latin Quarter’s crooked cobblestone corridors or down the grand plane-tree-lined boulevards of St.-Germain-des-Prés and, more than once, you’ll think you’re inside a black-and-white Robert Doisneau photo. Cafe terraces, limestone buildings and nattily dressed locals create a timeless tableau. That’s not to say that Paris south of the dividing Seine is immune to change. But at least for now, the classic charms outweigh the contemporary influences.

近些年，巴黎右岸開始呈現國際化趨勢，波波族（bobo，巴黎的時尚人士）勢不可擋，改變了那裏的景象，而巴黎左岸則得以保存法國首都的靈魂。穿過拉丁區彎彎曲曲的鵝卵石小巷，或者在聖日耳曼德佩區的梧桐樹大道上漫步，你會不止一次感覺自己置身於羅伯特·杜瓦諾(Robert Doisneau)的黑白照片中。咖啡館露臺、石灰岩建築和着裝精緻的當地人創造出永恆的生動畫面。並不是說巴黎的塞納河南岸沒有變化。不過，至少現在，傳統魅力蓋過了當代影響力。

1. Appetite Awakener | 3:30 p.m.

1. 喚醒食慾 | 下午3點半

The Left Bank is home to cultural, fashion and artistic riches, but one of the best ways to immerse yourself in French culture is with food. Paris by Mouth, a five-year-old foodie website, offers three-hour small-group tours, including the popular Taste of St.-Germain (95 euros, or about $100 at $1.05 to the euro), which will prime you for the weekend’s culinary delights. Among the half-dozen or so stops are Poilâne Bakery, which has been churning out the same large wheels of tangy sourdough from its basement wood-burning oven for 83 years; Le Marché Couvert (or the covered market), where moneyed locals scoop up their saucisson, fresh milk and seasonal produce; and Pierre Hermé, France’s “Picasso of Pastries,” which sells cakes and macarons almost too pretty to eat. Along with the tour’s treats, you’re fed historical and cultural bits that will help you navigate the local food scene on your own.

巴黎左岸是文化、時尚和藝術財富雲集之地，不過，要想浸淫於法國文化之中，最佳方式還要算享用法國美食。舌尖上的巴黎(Paris by Mouth)是一個有五年曆史的美食網站，它提供三小時長的小團美食遊，包括很受歡迎的“品味聖日耳曼”（Taste of St.-Germain，95歐元，按照1歐元兌換1.05美元的匯率計算，約合100美元），能讓你充分了解週末的巴黎美食。美食遊有六七個停靠點，包括普瓦拉納麪包房(Poilâne Bakery)，這裏地下室碳燒爐做出的味道濃烈的大酸麪糰與83年前並無二致；還有帶蓬市場(Le Marché Couvert)，富有的當地人在這裏購買粗紅腸、鮮奶和當季農產品；以及法國“糕點畢加索”皮埃爾·埃爾梅(Pierre Hermé)的糕點店，這裏的蛋糕和馬卡龍好看得讓人捨不得吃。一路上除了享用美食，你還能獲得不少歷史文化小知識，可供日後自己尋找當地美食之用。

2. To the Top | 7:30 p.m.

2. 到最高點 | 晚上7點半

You can’t visit Paris and ignore the grandest dame of them all. The Eiffel Tower, a majestic 1,063 feet of latticed iron work planted firmly on the flat green Champ de Mars near the Seine, is the tallest structure in the city. Two elevators will whoosh you to the top (or, if you’re feeling dauntless, tackle the 1,665 steps; 15.50 euros and 5 euros, respectively) and by now it will be l’heure bleue, that magical time in the evening when the whole city is suffused in an ethereal light. If you linger long enough taking in the panorama, you’ll also be treated to the top-of-the-hour light show, when 20,000 bulbs affixed to every side of the tower twinkle and dance for five mesmerizing minutes.

來巴黎遊玩，不能錯過這裏最宏大的建築——埃菲爾鐵塔。這個高1063英尺的網架鋼鐵建築牢牢紮根於塞納河畔鬱鬱蔥蔥的練兵場(Champ de Mars)。兩部電梯可以把你快速運到頂端（如果有毅力，可以爬樓梯，總共1665級；價格分別是15.50歐元和5歐元）。這時是夜晚最神奇的時刻，整座城市沉浸在燈光的海洋裏，宛如仙境。如果多停留一會兒，慢慢欣賞巴黎全景，你還能等到整點燈光秀——鐵塔四周安裝的2000個燈泡將閃爍跳躍五分鐘，令人目眩神迷。

3. Drama With Dinner | 10 p.m.

3. 表演與晚餐 | 晚上10點

Enjoy the relative tranquillity as you amble through the Anglicized Seventh Arrondissement to the Basque restaurant — the first one to open in Paris, more than 80 years ago — Chez L’Ami Jean. Inside the tightly packed dimly lit restaurant you’ll be elbow-to-elbow with boisterous locals and tourists feasting the night away. As you ponder the 78-euro prix fixe menu, watch the theatrics (and occasional temper) of the chef, Stéphane Jégo, through the kitchen window as he perfects dishes such as mackerel in leek vinaigrette and pork belly with oysters and rabbit. Save room for dessert. The restaurant’s legendary rice pudding, accompanied by salted butter caramel and crunchy meringues, comes in a bowl large enough to feed four and may forever change the way you think of the oft-maligned treat.

在前往Chez L’Ami Jean餐館途中，你可以在英國化的第七區享受相對的靜謐氣氛。Chez L’Ami Jean是巴黎的第一家巴斯克餐館，始創於80多年前。餐館裏燈光昏暗，人聲鼎沸，當地人和遊客在這裏盡情享樂。你在瀏覽78歐元的固定價格菜單時，可以透過廚房窗戶觀看大廚斯特凡納·熱戈(Stéphane Jégo)的精彩表演（和偶爾的壞脾氣）。他用大蔥酸醋沙司給鯖魚調味，用牡蠣和兔肉搭配五花肉。留點肚子吃甜點。這家餐館傳奇的大米布丁搭配鹹味黃油焦糖和鬆脆的蛋白糖餅，盛放在一個大碗中，足夠四個人食用。這道美味經常遭人詆譭，不過這裏的大米布丁可能會永遠改變你對它的看法。

4, Avant-Garde Art | 11 a.m.

4. 先鋒藝術 | 上午11點

If national museums like the Musée d’Orsay are too large, and St. Germain’s galleries too small for your art appreciation fix, you’ll love the scale of Paris’s fondations and the stellar exhibitions they attract. The Cartier Fondation and Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson, which are within walking distance of each other on opposite sides of the famed Montparnasse Cemetery, are sized to offer just the right dose of the familiar and the cutting edge. Exhibitions rotate several times a year, with the Cartier — housed in a light-filled, contemporary Jean Nouvel building — bringing acclaimed talent such as the Japanese pop artist Takeshi Kitano and the Australian sculptor Ron Mueck. The Cartier-Bresson, smaller and more modest, concentrates on photographers like Walker Evans and Saul Leiter.

如果你覺得像奧賽博物館(Musée d’Orsay)這樣的國家博物館太大，而聖日耳曼德佩區的畫廊又太小，不能滿足你的藝術欣賞需求，那麼，你會愛上巴黎各種基金會的規模，以及它們吸引到的一流展覽。卡地亞基金會(The Cartier Fondation)和亨利·卡地亞-佈雷鬆基金會(Henri Cartier-Bresson)位於著名的蒙帕納斯公墓(Montparnasse Cemetery)兩側，兩者在步行距離之內。它們的規模正好可以滿足你對常規和先鋒藝術的胃口。這兩家基金會每年舉辦幾次展覽。卡地亞基金會位於光線充足、當代風格的讓·努韋爾大廈內，它關注備受讚揚的天才，比如日本波普藝術家北野武和澳大利亞雕塑家羅恩·米克(Ron Mueck)。卡地亞-佈雷鬆基金會面積較小，較爲質樸，重點關注沃克·埃文斯(Walker Evans)和索爾·萊特(Saul Leiter)等攝影師。

5. Lunch Worth Waiting for | 1:30 p.m.

5. 值得等待的午餐 | 下午1點半

Unless waiting for bread at the boulangerie, queuing for food is not something Parisians do. But they make an exception for Le Comptoir du Relais, and so should you. On a sloping corner in St. Germain, the sliver of a restaurant is, in fact, most noticeable for the line of hungry people waiting for the first-come-first-served weekend service from the chef Yves Camdeborde, who’s often credited with starting the “bistronomy” trend currently rocking the Right Bank. This blend of a casual bistro environment and gastronomic cooking reveals its magic with simple yet otherworldly dishes like a creamy-crunchy smoked salmon croque monsieur (10 euros) or even a seasonal salad (13 euros), heaped with at least 10 kinds of vegetables and dusted with fine bits of crunchy onion.

除了在麪包房等麪包，巴黎人不大會爲食物排隊。但是，他們爲Le Comptoir du Relais餐館破例，你也應該如此。該餐館位於聖日耳曼德佩區一個傾斜的街角。實際上，對排隊等候的飢餓食客們來說，最醒目的就是餐館前的狹長露天座位。先到先得的週末美食來自大廚伊夫·康德伯爾德(Yves Camdeborde)，他常被譽爲當下震撼巴黎右岸的“bistronomy”潮流的開創者。bistronomy是將輕鬆的小餐館(bistro)氛圍與美食烹飪法(gastronomic)相結合，用簡單而脫俗的菜餚展現神奇，比如既柔滑又有嚼頭的熏製三文魚火腿三明治（10歐元）或時令沙拉（13歐元）——這道沙拉至少含有十種蔬菜，撒着脆脆的洋蔥小切塊，堆了滿滿一碗。

6. Oh, La Mode | 3 p.m.

6. 哦，時尚 | 下午3點

Since you’re in the heart of a bustling shopping district, why not put those credit cards to use for some French treasures? (Be sure to ask salesclerks for VAT refunds.) Alexandra Sojfer makes the most ornate umbrellas and walking sticks you can imagine, with details like carved wood animal-head handles and taffeta parasols adorned with Swarovski crystals. Deyrolle appears to be a modest gardening store at street level, but ascend to the second floor to find an exotic emporium filled with rhino heads, panther skeletons, tortoise shells and all manner of taxidermy. And leave it to the French to peddle even candles with pedigrees. Cire Trudon, established in 1643, once supplied King Louis XIV’s court with candles. Today, you can take home your own piece of French history of sorts: a burning bust of Marie Antoinette or Napoleon.

既然身處繁忙購物區的中心，何不用信用卡買些法國珍寶呢（一定要向售貨員索要增值稅退款）？Alexandra Sojfer製作的傘和手杖極爲華麗，超乎想象，比如手柄上有木雕動物頭像，塔夫綢陽傘上裝飾着施華洛世奇水晶。以這條街的水準看，Deyrolle似乎是個質樸的園藝商店，不過它的二樓充滿異域風情，裏面有犀牛頭、美洲豹骷髏和龜甲等各種動物標本。連法國人沿街兜售的蠟燭都是有來歷的。Cire Trudon始創於1643年，曾爲國王路易十四的宮廷提供蠟燭。如今，你可以帶回法國曆史的一個縮影：可以燃燒的瑪麗·安託瓦妮特(Marie Antoinette)或拿破崙(Napoleon)半身像。

7. Terrace Views | 6 p.m.

7. 露臺風景 | 下午6點

Parisians dine later, so you have the excuse to indulge in one of their prime pastimes: people watching from a cafe terrace. Snatch one of the coveted seats at Café de Flore, where figures such as Simone de Beauvoir and Picasso once sipped, puffed and pontificated, and watch the coiffed regulars come in and kiss-kiss the maître d’hôtel while harried waiters in long white aprons weave and wend, delivering trays of aperitifs. Try a bitter Campari (9.80 euros) or a sweet kir, white wine with a splash of cassis (9.5).

巴黎人吃飯都比較晚，所以你可以藉機享受一下他們最喜歡的消遣：在咖啡館露臺上看行人。西蒙娜·德·博瓦爾(Simone de Beauvoir)和畢加索(Picasso)等名人曾在Café de Flore咖啡館裏品嚐咖啡，吞雲吐霧，高談闊論。在這家咖啡館搶個好位置，看着髮型漂亮的常客走進來，輕吻領班雙頰，穿着長白圍裙的服務員忙碌穿梭，端上一盤盤開胃酒。你可以品嚐一下有苦味的金巴利酒（Campari，9.80歐元）或甜味柯爾酒（kir，9.5歐元）——加入黑加侖甜酒的白葡萄酒。

8. Nouveau Cooking | 8 p.m.

8. 新烹飪法 | 晚上8點

Neither trendy nor nostalgic, Semilla manages the perfect balance of nouveau Parisian cooking. Opened in 2012 by the international team of Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré, the sparse but sophisticated restaurant (marble tabletops, concrete floors, wood-beamed ceilings) attracts an urbane clientele from the neighborhood’s galleries and bourgeois homes. The menu is organized into categories like “raw,” “fried” and “from the oven,” with crowd favorites like shiitake mushrooms, browned in toasted sesame oil (6 euros) and the côte de boeuf for two, which is presented tableside before being taken to the open kitchen, where it’s sliced and then returned with mashed potatoes and horseradish cream (76 euros).

Semilla餐館既不時髦，也不懷舊，實現了巴黎新烹飪法的完美平衡。這個樸素而精緻的餐館（大理石桌面、水泥地板、木橫樑天花板）2012年開業，店主是一個國際組合——胡安·桑切斯(Juan Sanchez)和德魯·哈雷(Drew Harré)。這裏的顧客彬彬有禮，來自附近的畫廊和中產家庭。菜單上有“生食”、“煎制”和“爐烤”等類別，明星菜品包括烤芝麻油煎香菇（6歐元）和兩人份牛排（76歐元），牛排先端到桌邊展示，然後拿回開放式廚房，切片後和土豆泥、辣根醬一起上桌。

9. Get Fresh | 10 a.m.

9. 新鮮清爽 | 上午10點

Every Sunday from 9 a.m. until 1:30 p.m., the air on Boulevard Raspail, between the Rue Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes, fills with the tantalizing smell of sautéing onions. It’s the onion galettes — shredded onion, potato and cheese (2.50 euros) — frying at one of the dozens of stands at the Marché Biologique Raspail. This organic market has been a neighborhood jewel for 26 years. Stroll by, admire, even ogle, but do not touch the beautiful displays. Once you’ve decided among the loaves of bread chockablock with dried fruit; towers of chevre and Comté cheese; baskets of fresh herbs and lettuces; honeys, jams and various other edible delights, the vendors will be happy to help you.

每週日上午9點至下午1點半，謝爾什-米迪路和雷恩路之間的拉斯帕伊大道(Boulevard Raspail)上瀰漫着煎洋蔥的濃郁香味。那是洋蔥煎餅（2.50歐元）的味道，餅裏有洋蔥絲、土豆絲和奶酪，出自拉斯帕伊有機農作物市場(Marché Biologique Raspail)數十個攤位之一。26年來，這個有機農作物市場一直是附近居民的摯愛。你可以瀏覽、欣賞，甚至盯着看，但是不要觸碰那些好看的展示品——塞滿果脯的長麪包，山羊奶酪和伯爵奶酪塔，一籃子鮮藥草和萵苣，以及蜂蜜和火腿等可以直接食用的美味。你想好買什麼之後，攤主會很樂意幫你拿的。

10. ­Sunday Stroll | Noon

10. 週日漫步 | 正午

No longer are the Luxembourg Gardens the only nearby spot of green where you can eat your market loot. Les Berges, a nearly 1.5-mile stretch along the Seine reserved for pedestrians, debuted in 2013, so what was once a diesel-fume-choked highway is now thronged with strolling families, joggers, bicyclists and skaters. Start at the Pont de l’Alma entrance to the west and make your way past the rotating art exhibitions, climbing walls and stations for hopscotch and paddleball. Once you’ve arrived at the eastern end, near Musée d’Orsay, climb the wood-plank bleacher seats for a view of the boats chugging along the river.

綠樹成蔭的盧森堡花園(Luxembourg Gardens)不再是附近唯一可供你享用市場美味的地方。Les Berges是塞納河畔約1.5英里的狹長地帶，專爲行人保留，2013年開放。這裏曾是瀰漫着柴油濃煙的高速公路，現在人們紛紛來此散步、慢跑、騎自行車或玩輪滑。從西端的阿爾瑪橋(Pont de l’Alma)入口開始，走過主題經常變化的藝術展覽場地、攀巖牆以及跳房子游戲和板手球運動場地。到東端奧賽博物館附近的終點後，你可以爬上露天看臺，坐在木板座位俯瞰河上突突而過的小船。

11. Sweet Ending | 2 p.m.

11. 甜蜜尾聲 | 下午2點

There’s always room in the belly (or in your carry-on) for French chocolate. And, seeing as St. Germain is the unofficial center of the chocolate universe, counting at least a dozen renowned chocolatiers, make a final sweep of the neighborhood’s offerings, winding up in a cobblestone alley at Pierre Cluizel’s Un Dimanche à Paris. This boutique is also an 8,600-square-foot salon de thé/restaurant/lounge devoted to high-end chocolate. A spot of the pastry chef Nicolas Bacheyre’s chocolat chaud, served warm, not hot, in traditional Limoges porcelain, is guaranteed to send you off in classic style.

你總能給法國巧克力留出肚子（或行李空間）。人們私下裏認爲，聖日耳曼德佩區是巴黎這個巧克力王國的中心，這裏至少有十幾家著名巧克力製造店。最後掃蕩一遍這一地區的美味，在皮埃爾·克魯澤爾(Pierre Cluizel)的巴黎星期天巧克力店(Un Dimanche à Paris)收尾。這家高端巧克力店位於一條鵝卵石小巷裏，佔地8600平方英尺，兼作茶館、餐館和酒吧。糕點大廚尼古拉·巴切(Nicolas Bacheyre)製作的巧克力熱飲上桌時其實不是熱的，而是溫的，盛放在傳統的利摩日瓷杯裏，保證讓你以最經典的方式告別巴黎。

Built in 1827, L’Hotel (13 rue des Beaux Arts, Sixth, 33-1-44-41-99-00; ) is the last place that Oscar Wilde resided, and holds a special place in Parisians’ hearts. The discreet and historic five-star hotel has 20 glamorous rooms, including a nearly 600-square-foot penthouse with a terrace a restaurant bar and hammam pool in the basement. Rates range from 295 to 1,050 euros.

L’Hotel（布雜藝術路13號6幢；33-1-44-41-99-00; ）始建於1827年，是奧斯卡·王爾德(Oscar Wilde)最後居住的地方，在巴黎人心中有着特殊地位。這個歷史悠久的樸素的五星級酒店有20個迷人的房間，包括近600平方英尺的帶露臺的頂層套房。地下室裏有餐館酒吧和土耳其浴室。房價從295歐元至1050歐元不等。

Tucked behind the newly renovated St.-Sulpice church, the six-story Hotel Recamier (3 bis, Place Saint-Sulpice, Sixth, 33-1-43-26-04-89; ) is quiet, chic and sophisticated. The interior designer Jean-Louis Deniot made each of the 24 rooms, ranging from small to spacious, unique. But they all share a soothing, neutral palette. Rates from 280 to 495 euros.

Hotel Recamier 酒店（聖-敘爾皮斯街3號乙，6幢，33-1-43-26-04-89; ）藏在新修復的聖-敘爾皮斯教堂(St.-Sulpice)後面，共有6層。它安靜、時尚、精緻。室內設計師讓-路易·德尼奧(Jean-Louis Deniot)把這裏大小不一的24個房間設計得各有特色。不過，它們都採用讓人放鬆的中性色調。房價從280歐元至495歐元不等。