36小時玩轉開普敦 36 Hours in Cape Town
“We’ll make a plan.” It’s a phrase you’ll hear often in South Africa, whether you show up at a restaurant without a reservation or are hoping to squeeze three people into a hotel room meant for two. Heralded as one of the world’s most beautiful cities — few destinations can mimic the scale of its mountain-ocean convergence — Cape Town doesn’t need to be as accommodating as it is; it could, in theory, sit pretty on the merits of its natural bounties alone. And yet it remains a singularly inviting place, wowing visitors with its colorful art and architecture (watch out for the Thomas Heatherwick-designed Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, to be completed next year), complex history, world-class wines and arguably one of the best culinary landscapes anywhere. How to squeeze all of Cape Town’s highlights, both man- and Mother Nature-made, into one weekend? Don’t worry, we’ll make a plan.
“我們會想辦法的。”在南非，你會經常聽到這句話，無論是你沒預訂就去了一家餐廳，還是想在酒店的雙人間裏擠下三個人。開普敦被譽爲全球最美的城市之一——沒什麼地方能媲美那山海相融的壯觀——它本可以獨立於世，安享大自然的饋贈，大可不必像現在這般隨和。但它仍作爲這世上爲數不多的好客之地，以其色彩斑斕的藝術品和建築（可以關注一下非洲塞茨當代藝術博物館[Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa]，由托馬斯·赫斯維克[Thomas Heatherwick]設計，將於明年對外開放）、錯綜複雜的歷史、世界一流的葡萄酒，以及公認位居全球前列的美食，不斷給遊客帶來驚喜。如何用一個週末盡情體驗開普敦的人文及自然之精華？別擔心，我們會想辦法的。
Friday
星期五
1. Manna From Heaven | 1:30 p.m.
1. 從天而降的恩賜：下午1:30
Hemelhuijs (“house of heaven” in Afrikaans) is a worthy introduction to South Africa’s creative food scene du jour, a vibrant restaurant tableau defined by seasonal ingredients forging unexpected unions and presented with flourish. Case in point: pan-fried veal with crab butter, Parmesan, pine nuts and parsley (155 rand, or $12.25 at 12.75 rand to the dollar); seared tuna with shredded carrots and chiloe pepper-berry vinaigrette (155 rand); and free mosbolletjie bread studded with aniseed. Wash it down with a blend of kale, pear and orange juice (45 rand).
Hemelhuijs（在南非荷蘭語中意爲“天堂之屋”）是南非創意美食的入門之選，這家餐廳採取時下流行的“當日菜單”風格——以時令食材搭配出新奇的組合，外加花式擺盤。比如：鐵盤煎小牛肉，配蟹黃、帕爾瑪乾酪、松子及歐芹（155蘭特，按12.75蘭特兌換1美元計算，約合12.25美元）；烤金槍魚，配胡蘿蔔絲及奇洛黑椒漿果油醋汁（155蘭特）；還有免費的葡萄乾甜麪包，裏面佈滿了茴芹籽。用餐時可以配一杯由羽衣甘藍、梨和橙子混合的蔬果汁（45蘭特）。
2. History Lessons | 3 p.m.
2. 尋訪歷史：下午3:00
Book a few weeks in advance for a tour of Cape Town’s Alcatraz: Robben Island, the grim penal colony five miles off the coast. Though the island’s history as a prison dates to the 17th century, its notoriety stems from its most famous inmate, Nelson Mandela, who spent nearly two decades of his 27-year sentence for sabotage against the apartheid government. A visit is an essential primer to understanding the gravity of apartheid and its impact on the 21-year-old nation. Guides are former political prisoners once incarcerated here. Ferries leave several times a day; plan to spend about four hours including the round-trip ferry. Admission, 300 rand; 160 for children.
到訪開普敦的“惡魔島”(Alcatraz)需要提前幾個星期預訂。羅本島(Robben Island)距海岸5英里（約8.05公里），是令人生畏的流放之地。儘管羅本島作爲監獄的歷史要追溯到17世紀，但它的惡名是來自於其最著名的“囚犯”——尼爾森·曼德拉(Nelson Mandela)。他因反對種族隔離政府而被判入獄27年，其中在羅本島度過了近20年。如果要了解種族隔離的危害，及其帶給這個成立了21年的國家的影響，這是一個必不可少的啓蒙之旅。嚮導都是曾被關押在此的政治犯。每天有數班往來的遊輪；算上搭船的時間，來回需要大約四個小時。門票：成人300蘭特；兒童160蘭特。
3. Eat Street | 8:30 p.m.
3. 美食街：晚上8:30
If you’re wondering where the hip Capetonians are dining, have your Uber drop you off at Bree Street. This formerly nondescript city-center drag has seen new restaurants and cafes opening at a rapid clip. One of the trendiest debutantes is Bocca, with an impressive pedigree: Its owners, Neil Grant and Barry Engelbrecht, are the team behind Burrata, a top Italian restaurant. Choose between pizzas blistered to perfection in an Italian-imported wood-fired oven or heartier fare like cauliflower risotto with charred leeks, almonds, lemon and capers (95 rand). Pizzas are reasonably priced, ranging from 42 rand to 126 rand. No reservations, so you might have to wait on busy weekends. After dinner, head farther up Bree for a little barhopping : Mother’s Ruin is a mecca for gin lovers in a wine-connoisseur’s city; neighboring Door 221 is a low-key new dive bar; down the block, the speakeasy-style Orphanage Cocktail Emporium has vintage décor and drinks to match (Brimstone & Fire for 80 rand; Victorian margarita for 45 rand).
如果你想知道時髦的開普敦人平時在哪兒吃飯，就讓Uber司機把你送到布利街(Bree Street)。這條曾經乏善可陳的市中心街道一時間涌現了衆多新餐廳和咖啡館，Bocca是其中最時髦的新秀之一，而且它的來頭也不小：老闆尼爾·格蘭特(Neil Grant)和巴利·恩格爾布雷克特(Barry Engelbrecht)也是意大利頂級餐廳Burrata的幕後主創。你可以選擇由意大利進口的燃木烤爐烤制的蓬鬆度完美的披薩，或來點更豐盛的，比如椰菜花意大利飯，配烤韭菜、杏仁、檸檬及刺山柑（95蘭特）。披薩定價合理，從42蘭特到126蘭特不等。餐廳不接受預訂，所以在繁忙的週末可能要排隊。晚餐後，可以沿着布利街逛酒吧：在這個遍佈葡萄酒行家的城市，Mother’s Ruin是金酒愛好者的朝聖之地；隔壁的Door 221是一家低調的新潛水酒吧；在下個街區，地下風格的孤兒院雞尾酒吧(Orphanage Cocktail Emporium)採用復古裝飾，飲品也是類似風格（“地獄之火”80蘭特；“維多利亞的瑪格麗塔”45蘭特。）
Saturday
星期六
4. Running Tour | 8 a.m.
4. 跑步之旅：上午8:00
Capetonians are an active bunch, prone to hiking or biking their weekends away. While you might not have time to squeeze in a climb, work up a sweat bright and early at the weekly “parkrun” at Greenpoint Stadium. Join hundreds of joggers (walkers are welcome, too) for a scenic 5-kilometer route through the city, around the stadium erected for the 2010 World Cup, and into the Greenpoint Urban Park, a sprawling inner-city tract filled with playgrounds, ponds, an open-air gym and gardens with 25,000 indigenous plants. The run is free; just show up at 8 a.m., or register online to receive your time via email.
開普敦人是一個充滿活力的羣體，喜歡在週末爬山或騎行。雖然你可能沒時間爬山，但也可以在大清早的開普敦球場（Greenpoint Stadium，又名“綠點球場”）來一場酣暢淋漓的“公園跑”(“parkrun”)。該活動每週一次，加入幾百名慢跑者（散步的也歡迎）的隊伍，完成風景如畫的五公里：路線包括城市街道、環繞這座爲2010年世界盃而建的球場，最後進入綠點城市公園(Greenpoint Urban Park)——這塊位於市中心的不規則區域裏有操場、池塘、露天體育館，以及種植了25000種本地植物的花園。跑步活動是免費的；只要在上午8點出現就行了，或者在這裏註冊，他們會發電子郵件通知你確切的時間。
5. Market Values | 9:30 a.m.
5. 集市有好貨：上午9:30
Saturday is market day, and there are a few options to choose from. The pioneer is at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, where the weekly Neighbourgoods Market was at the forefront of this run-down district’s transformation into a creative enclave. These days, trendsetters and tourists alike descend on the complex by the thousands each Saturday morning to graze on artisanal fare and browse handmade crafts. The Oranjezicht City Farm Market is a more wholesome affair: From its humble origins at the site of a nonprofit urban farm, the market has grown and now occupies a sprawling tent near the V&A Waterfront. Both Neighbourgoods and Oranjezicht run from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays; cobble together a filling breakfast from various stalls before you continue on your way.
星期六是趕集日，有很多集市可供選擇，其中的先驅者位於伍德斯托克(Woodstock)的老餅乾磨坊區(Old Biscuit Mill)。這一創意飛地曾是個蕭條的區域，每週一次的Neighbourgoods集市在這一轉變中起到了領軍作用。如今，每星期六早上都有數千潮人和遊客涌入這裏，品嚐手作食物，瀏覽手工藝品。Oranjezicht市區農貿市場(The Oranjezicht City Farm Market)更像是個批發市場：最初從一個不起眼的非營利性城市農場起步，現在發展到在維多利亞&阿爾弗雷德碼頭廣場(V&A Waterfront)附近搭滿了帳篷。這兩個集市都是每星期六從上午9點開到下午2點；用不同攤位上的美食湊成一頓豐盛的早餐，再繼續接下來的行程。
6. Museum of Memories | 10:30 a.m.
6. 記憶的博物館：上午10:30
Somber lessons in apartheid continue in District Six, a multicultural enclave whose residents were forcibly removed beginning in the 1960s. The intimate District Six Museum paints a poignant picture of the devastation wreaked on close-knit communities, telling stories through personal narratives, pictures and memorabilia collected from uprooted families. Admission is 30 rand; arrange in advance for a guided tour with a former resident for 45 rand.
沉重的種族隔離課堂在第六區(District Six)繼續進行。這塊多文化飛地上的居民從20世紀60年代起就被強行驅逐。精通這段歷史的第六區博物館(District Six Museum)爲這個族羣的傷痛描繪出一幅辛酸的畫卷。從被驅逐的家庭中收集來個人自述、照片和紀念品，也爲人們講述着當年的故事。門票：30蘭特；如需一位原居民做導覽，請提前安排，收費45蘭特。
7. Art and Coffee | Noon
7. 藝術和咖啡：正午
Coffee is serious business here. Haas is an art gallery-cafe hybrid that serves cappuccinos (22 rand), mochachinos (26 rand), ultra-strong death wishes — the equivalent of six double espressos (55 rand) — and more amid an array of modern art and mounted animal busts.
在開普頓，咖啡是個嚴肅的行業。Haas集藝術畫廊和咖啡館於一身，供應卡布奇諾（22蘭特）、摩卡奇諾（26蘭特），以及“超強烈的死亡之願”——相當於六杯的雙份濃縮咖啡（55蘭特）。在衆多現代藝術作品和壁掛的動物頭裝飾中，你還會有更多發現。
8. The Great Gatsby | 1 p.m.
8. 了不起的蓋茨比：下午1:00
Don’t leave Cape Town without trying the city’s signature Gatsby sandwich — a behemoth sub laden with saucy meat and French fries. The origin of the hoagie’s amusing name is up for debate, but they’re sold at plenty of no-frills “takeaways”; one of the best is at Mariam’s Kitchen on the pedestrian St. George’s Mall promenade. A full steak Gatsby could feed up to four people and costs 120 rand. Mariam’s closes at 2 p.m. on Saturdays, so keep it quick.
離開開普敦之前，一定要試試這裏特有的蓋茨比三明治——巨大的潛艇三明治裏面鋪滿了醬汁肉排和炸薯條。至於這有趣的名字因何而來，尚無定論，但它們在不起眼的外賣攤上隨處可見；其中最好吃的一家在聖喬治商場步行區的Mariam’s Kitchen。四個人點一個全牛排蓋茨比就足夠了，售價120蘭特。Mariam每星期日下午2點關門，所以要早點去。
9. Rainbow Bright | 2 p.m.
9. 彩虹社區：下午2:00
If you’ve ever received a postcard from Cape Town, chances are it featured a collection of candy-colored rowhouses clustered around the slopes of a mountain. That neighborhood is Bo-Kaap, and that mountain is Signal Hill. The city’s Cape Malay Muslim community has called Bo-Kaap (“Upper Cape”) home for generations, and they’ve enlivened their houses by painting them every conceivable shade of pink, green, blue and purple. If you’re lucky, someone might offer you a homemade koesister, a coconut-dusted doughnut doused in syrup (you can also buy one at Rose Corner Café for 3 rand). To learn more about the community’s history pop into the Bo-Kaap Museum on Wale Street (20 rand).
如果你收到過來自開普敦的明信片，圖案八成是聚集在山坡上的糖果色排屋。那一帶是波卡普(Bo-Kaap)，那座山是信號山(Signal Hill)。開普敦的開普馬來穆斯林社區世世代代生活在波卡普（意爲“開普敦上城區”），他們給房子賦予了活力，把上面每一塊能刷的地方都刷成了粉色、綠色、藍色或紫色。如果你夠幸運的話，有人或許會給你一份自制的koesister，這是一種糕點，外層覆滿椰子粉，再澆上糖漿（在玫瑰角咖啡館[Rose Corner Café]也可以買到，價格3蘭特）。如果想更詳細地瞭解這個社區的歷史，可以去維爾街上的波卡普博物館(Bo-Kaap Museum)（門票20蘭特）。
10. Mountain High | 4 p.m.
10. 登高望遠：下午4:00
The other classic Cape Town shot: Table Mountain, the imposing mesa that defines the city’s skyline. Locals prefer to hike one of the many trails to the top, but you can always ride the cable car. The late-afternoon light is best for gilded 360-degree views of the beach and city as well as the Lion’s Head peak next door. Round-trip cableway tickets are 240 rand.
桌山是開普敦的另一個經典景點，這座壯麗的平頂山成爲了開普敦的天際線。當地人喜歡從衆多小徑裏選一條騎行上山，但你也可以搭纜車。黃昏時分的光影給海灘、城市，以及旁邊的獅子頭山(Lion’s Head)的山頂都鍍上了一層金色，是觀賞360度全景的最佳時機。來回的纜車票價是240蘭特。
11. Wine and Dine | 7 p.m.
11. 葡萄酒和晚餐：晚上7:00
Cape Town’s coastal location means a seafood feast is required. Pigalle is the place for moist langoustines, prawns with peri-peri sauce, and Mozambican prawn curry. But be warned: The décor seems to be floundering in the 1980s, and if you find cover bands a touch cheesy, request a table far from the dance floor. Dinner is around 1,000 rand for two with wine. Or immerse yourself in South Africa’s wine culture instead. The upscale suburb of Constantia is home to South Africa’s first vineyards, dating to 1685. Make a reservation at La Colombe at Silvermist wine estate for Scot Kirton’s French inflections on local ingredients, like roast Karoo lamb with braised tongue, rosemary gnocchi, herb purée, leek and lamb rib jus (220 rand).
在沿海的開普敦，海鮮大餐不容錯過。Pigalle是品嚐多汁的海鰲蝦、peri-peri酸辣醬大蝦，以及莫桑比克咖喱大蝦的不二之選。但是要注意：店內的裝飾風格似乎還停留在20世紀80年代，而且，如果你覺得現場樂隊有點俗氣，可以換一個遠離舞池的桌子。雙人晚餐加葡萄酒的價格大約是1000蘭特。如果不吃海鮮，就沉浸在南非的葡萄酒文化裏吧。唐斯坦提亞(Constantia)的高級郊區從1685年起就作爲葡萄酒的產區，南非的第一批葡萄園就開在那裏。在Silvermist葡萄酒莊園的La Colombe餐廳預訂主廚斯科特·克爾頓(Scot Kirton)用本地食材烹飪的法國菜，比如烤卡魯羊肉，配燜牛舌、迷迭香湯糰、草本菜泥、韭菜及羊排醬汁（220蘭特）。
Sunday
星期日
12. Garden Variety | 9 a.m.
12. 皆大歡喜的花園：上午9:00
When Jan van Riebeeck and the first Dutch settlers arrived in the 1650s, they farmed a patch of land now known as the Company’s Garden, a verdant swath in the heart of the city with fish ponds and rose gardens. The outdoor seating area at the new Company’s Garden Restaurant is a playground for both grown-ups and children, thanks to a larger-than-life chess set and oversize swings and nests. Breakfast, with options like French toast and eggs Benedict: 35 to 78 rand.
楊·範·裏貝克(Jan van Riebeeck)和第一批荷蘭人在17世紀50年代到達了這裏。他們曾耕作的土地就是如今荷屬東印度公司花園(Company’s Garden)的所在地。這片鬱鬱蔥蔥的帶狀區域位於市中心，裏面有魚池和玫瑰園。新開的公司花園餐廳(Company’s Garden Restaurant)的戶外座位區是一個遊樂場。比真人還大的國際象棋、超大號鞦韆和休息處，讓成人和兒童都能在此玩樂。早餐有法式麪包、班尼迪克蛋等，價格35蘭特到78蘭特不等。
13. Last-Minute Souvenirs | 11 a.m.
13. 紀念品：上午11:00
The Watershed at the V&A Waterfront has one-stop shopping for local crafts and clothes: rope necklaces and cuffs from Pichulik, Hello Charlie ceramics and Nunabean baby shoes. Or make an appointment at Luxury Africa Atelier, where wildlife photography by Marius Coetzee, Legacy Collection jewelry created out of the fencing from Robben Island, and driftwood sculptures by Tony Fredriksson are on display. If haggling is more your scene, the prices at the lively daily bazaar at Greenmarket Square are always negotiable.
維多利亞&阿爾弗雷德碼頭廣場(V&A Waterfront)的分界處有一個一站式購物中心，可以買到當地的工藝品和服裝：有 Pichulik的繩式項鍊及手鍊、Hello Charlie的陶器，以及Nunabean嬰兒鞋。或者在Luxury Africa Atelier上預約參觀，那裏有馬利尤斯·庫切(Marius Coetzee)的野生動物攝影作品、以羅本島監獄爲主題的“遺產系列”(Legacy Collection)珠寶，以及託尼·弗雷德裏克森(Tony Fredriksson)的浮木雕塑。如果你更喜歡去能講價的地方購物，那就去綠市廣場(Greenmarket Square)的每日集市吧。
Lodging
住宿
The owner and interior designer Jessica Latimer styled Cape View Clifton (232 Kloof Road, Clifton; ) to resemble a chic but relaxed beach house (at seven stories, mansion might be a more apt term). With a distinctly South African air, it has crisp white and gray interiors, faux kudu horns doubling as hat hooks, bulbous vases heaped with protea flowers, and Africology products in the bathrooms. Set snugly on the cliffs above Clifton Beach, the five rooms and two apartments have sweeping views of the ocean from private balconies. Rooms start at 3,400 rand (about $160) a night, including breakfast.
室內設計師傑西卡·拉蒂默(Jessica Latimer)是開普敦海角景觀克利夫頓酒店(Cape View Clifton)（克利夫頓克魯夫街232號；）的老闆。她把酒店設計得像是一棟時髦而舒適的海灘別墅（共有七層，“大廈”更適合形容公寓樓）。酒店具有典型的南非風格：內部採用純白和灰色的色調，仿製的羚角還可以作爲帽鉤，球形花瓶中插滿了帝王花，浴室採用Africology產品。五個單間和兩間公寓依克里夫頓海灘(Clifton Beach)上方的懸崖而建，在私人陽臺上可盡享一覽無餘的海景。房間價格由每晚3400蘭特起，含早餐。
In the heart of the Central Business District, Cape Heritage Hotel (90 Bree Street; ) is nestled among the popular restaurants, bars and boutiques of Bree Street. Every floorboard of the 1771-built house creaks with history, but the 17 rooms are a thoughtful hybrid of old and new. A pergola in the cobblestoned patio is draped with what is said to be the oldest grapevine in South Africa, planted soon after the house was originally built — it still produces about 20 liters of wine a year. Rooms start at 1,500 rand (about $115) a night, including breakfast.
開普敦希望之地酒店(Cape Heritage Hotel)地處中心商務區（布利街90號；），周圍遍佈着布利街的餐廳、酒吧和精品店。這棟房子建於1771年，每塊地板都帶着歷史的回聲，但酒店思慮周全，把17個房間混搭了新舊兩種風格。在鋪滿鵝卵石的庭院裏有一個藤架，上面懸掛着據說是南非最古老的葡萄藤。這株葡萄藤在房子建成後不久就種下了——現在每年還能產出大約20升葡萄酒。房間價格由每晚1500蘭特起（約115美元），含早餐。
