36小時玩轉布宜諾斯艾利斯 36 Hours in Buenos Aires
No matter how soap-opera-like its politics, or exaggerated its inflation, Argentina’s capital never loses its charm. The city’s nonstop spawning of new restaurants and arts spaces is a testament to the endless creativity of Porte, as its residents are called. Its century-old cafes and gorgeous tree-lined streets have always been a draw, but visit now for its culinary scene and gimmicky yet ineffably cool speakeasies. Buenos Aires loves to embrace reinvention, and it shows.
不管政治局勢如何堪比肥皂劇，通脹問題又如何誇張，阿根廷的首都永遠都不會喪失自己的魅力。市內不斷涌現的新餐廳和新藝術空間，就是當地居民口中的這座Porte（布宜諾斯艾利斯的西班牙語名稱）所擁有的無盡創造力的最佳證明。擁有百年曆史的咖啡館與美不勝收的的綠蔭街道一直難分伯仲，也可趁現在去欣賞當地的美食風景和各種花巧、酷勁十足的地下酒吧。布宜諾斯艾利斯喜歡擁抱革新，並且樂於展現。
Friday
星期五
1. Latin American Art | 3:30 p.m.
1.拉美藝術：下午3:30
It’s not an exaggeration to say that the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Malba) is one of the best art museums on the continent. The modern, light-filled building (admission, 60 pesos or about $6.55 at 9 Argentine pesos to the dollar) is truly a necessary stop, with its vibrant permanent collection, where artworks are arranged chronologically and linked to their corresponding art movement. Highlights include works by the Argentine artist Antonio Berni and Frida Kahlo. The temporary exhibitions are almost always thought-provoking (and if you need a snack, the croissants in the cafe are excellent).
毫不誇張地說，布宜諾斯艾利斯拉丁美洲藝術博物館(Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, Malba)是拉美大陸上最好的美術館之一。這座光線充足的現代建築（門票售價阿根廷60比索，按9比索兌1美元計算，約合6.55美元）擁有富含生命力的永久藏品，所有作品均按時間順序依次排列，並與對應的藝術運動相關聯，絕對值得你駐足觀賞。其中的重要作品包括阿根廷藝術家安東尼奧·伯尼(Antonio Berni)和弗裏達·卡羅(Frida Kahlo)的大作。這裏的臨展幾乎總是讓人思緒萬千（如果你想吃點點心，館內咖啡館的可頌麪包可是上佳美味）。
2. Perfumes in Palermo | 6 p.m.
2.巴勒莫的香水：下午6:00
Casa Cavia is a complex — restaurant, cafe, bar, garden, bookstore and florist — in a two-story home that dates to 1927 and has been remodeled into a stunning indoor-outdoor space that’s a harbinger of the new Buenos Aires design aesthetic: modern with a tip of the hat to retro. Pop in for a peek at the grand interior — high ceilings, arched doorways and Art Deco-inspired furniture — then walk through the garden to the perfumery, where more than 100 fragrances are on display, from passionfruit to the signature “Biblioteca de Babel” scent, a homage to Jorge Luis Borges and a nod to the publishing house on the second floor.
Casa Cavia是一處提供綜合性體驗的場所——餐廳、咖啡館、酒吧、花園、書店和花店，建築共分兩層，原爲建於1927年的一棟住宅，現已改造成一處令人目不轉睛的室內室外連通式空間，成爲新式布宜諾斯艾利斯設計美學的實踐先驅：在保留現代感的同時也向復古風格致敬。進來瞄上幾眼這裏的壯觀裝潢——高聳的天花板，拱形大門，還有受裝飾藝術風格啓發的傢俱；然後穿過花園，走到香水店，這裏陳列着100多種香水，從百香果香，到該店標誌性的“巴別圖書館”(Biblioteca de Babel)香，後者是一款向豪爾赫·路易斯·博爾赫斯(Jorge Luis Borges)致敬的香水，也與二樓的出版社遙相呼應。
3. Coffee and Wine | 7:30 p.m.
3.咖啡與紅酒：晚上7:30
Argentines stay out late, so fortify yourself with a caffeine stop at LAB Tostadores de Cafe, a roastery and one of the best of Buenos Aires’s new crop of modern coffee shops, where espresso is served in an industrial chic interior. Then stroll four blocks up Calle Gorriti, a popular shopping street, to Ser y Tiempo, a dimly lit wine bar that opened in 2014. A blind taste test of three excellent Argentine wines (200 pesos) is conducted on its own or over dinner, and will help you learn to distinguish a torrontés from a chardonnay. It’s also a wine shop, so stock up here on lesser-known local vintages. If you’re looking for something more casual, stop at the nearby Trova, which offers themed flights (“Argentine Malbecs,” “Summer”), almost all Argentine (flights from 65 to 110 pesos).
阿根廷人都喜歡在外面待到很晚纔回家，所以不妨到LAB Tostadores de Cafe補充些咖啡因提提神，這裏是布宜諾斯艾利斯新一代現代咖啡館中最棒的一間，可讓你在充滿工業風格的時尚環境中品嚐一杯意式濃縮咖啡。接着走過四個街區，沿着當地的熱門商業街Calle Gorriti，走到Ser y Tiempo，這是一間燈光幽暗的紅酒吧，2014年開業。你可以選擇在餐後或者單獨盲品三種上佳的阿根廷葡萄酒（200比索），這能幫你學會如何區分特濃情(torrontés)與霞多麗(chardonnay)。這裏也出售葡萄酒，所以不妨在這裏囤些比較小衆的當地精釀葡萄酒。如果想要找個更加隨意的去處，可以在附近的Trova稍作逗留，這裏提供不同主題的品酒會（“阿根廷馬爾貝克”、“盛夏”），幾乎俱爲阿根廷出產（品酒會價格65～110比索）。
4. Modern Argentina | 10:30 p.m.
4.現代阿根廷：晚上10:30
Head to the quietly trending Colegiales neighborhood for dinner (around 1,300 pesos with wine for two) at Astor Manduque Porte (the name translates, roughly, to “where locals eat”). The chef Antonio Soriano is a leading light of the new school of Argentine cooking, and his oft-changing menu is packed with creative dishes, which recently included blood sausage tempura and a salad of beef tongue. There are just eight dishes on offer at any one time, and diners can opt to try three, five or all of the choices, with course size diminishing proportionately. Add the wine pairing, which doesn’t skimp on quality or quantity.
前往低調時尚的科勒加勒斯(Colegiales)，在餐廳Astor Manduque Porte（翻譯過來大致就是“本地人用餐的地方”）享用晚餐（雙人晚餐含葡萄酒售價1,300比索左右）。主廚安東尼奧·索里亞諾(Antonio Soriano)是新派阿根廷料理的領軍人物，定期更換的菜單上列滿了各式創意料理，最近更有血腸天婦羅(blood sausage tempura)和牛舌沙拉。這裏每餐只供應八道料理，晚餐可以任選其中的三道、五道或全部，每道菜的份量會隨之相應減少。建議加上配餐葡萄酒，無論品質還是份量都充滿誠意。
Saturday
星期六
5. Coffee at Cao | 10 a.m.
5.百年咖啡：早上10:00
Many of Buenos Aires’s legendary bar-cum-cafes, or bares notables, with their career waiters and queues for tables, are packed with tourists. Make the journey to San Cristóbal, a residential neighborhood with its own landmark bar that dates back to 1915, Bar de Cao. Here you’ll find glass-fronted cabinets stuffed with bottles, hanging legs of jamón and original wooden fixtures, with a minimum of tourists. Sit by the sunny windows, order café con leche (23 pesos) and a medialuna croissant (7 pesos). But save room for lunch.
布宜諾斯艾利斯有許多充滿傳奇色彩的酒吧咖啡館，也就是西班牙語所說的“百年榮譽咖啡館”(bares notables)，館裏爲客人提供服務的都是職業侍者，常常需要排隊等餐，時時刻刻賓客盈門。讓我們順道去聖克里斯托巴爾(San Cristóbal)一遊，這處住宅區內擁有自己的地標酒吧——創建年代可以一直追溯到1915年的Bar de Cao。在這裏你會看到擺滿瓶子的玻璃櫃臺，懸掛的火腿(jamón)和原木裝置，遊客卻是少之又少。在陽光明媚的窗邊坐下，點一杯咖啡歐蕾(café con leche)（23比索）和一塊月牙可頌（7比索）。但是記得爲午餐留點肚子。
6. Leisurely Lunch | 12:30 p.m.
6.豐盛午餐：中午12:30
Build up an appetite with a walk down Avenida Independencia, a busy street lined with shops and cafes, humming with the hustle and bustle of everyday life in the capital. Stop at Aramburu Bis, the more informal second restaurant of the superstar chef Gonzalo Aramburu. His much fancier Aramburu is around the corner, but the Bis version, with its country store aesthetic, is one of the best restaurants in town (tasting menu lunch for two, with wine pairing, 1,100 pesos). Every dish is perfectly executed, like the starter of beef tartare adorned with the yolk of a quail’s egg, mustard ice cream and a miniature fry basket of shoestring potatoes. The wine list includes selections from up-and-coming Mendoza wineries — add the wine pairing to your tasting menu and plan on a three-hour lunch.
先沿着獨立大道(Avenida Independencia)漫步一段來開開胃，這是一條繁忙的街道，兩旁排滿了商店和咖啡館，應和着阿根廷首都日常生活中的繁華與喧鬧。到Aramburu Bis門前時停下腳步，這裏算是超級大廚貢薩洛·阿蘭布魯(Gonzalo Aramburu)玩票性質的第二間餐廳。他那間更爲豪華的Aramburu就在附近街角處，但是這間Aramburu Bis煥發出一種鄉間小店式的美感，也是當地最好的餐廳之一（特選菜單的雙人午餐含葡萄酒售價1100比索）。每一道菜的製作都很完美，開胃菜是韃靼牛肉，飾以鵪鶉蛋黃、芥末冰淇淋和一小籃炸土豆條。酒單精選了數家門多薩(Mendoza)的酒廠新秀——在你的特選菜單中加上配餐葡萄酒，用心享受一頓長達三個小時的午餐吧。
7. Afternoon Tango | 4:30 p.m.
7.午後探戈：下午4:30
Tango is less popular than Argentina’s tourism materials would have you believe, but no one has told the over-60 crowd. Check out the dedicated dancers at La Milonga de los Consagrados (55 pesos to enter, one-drink minimum), where the seniors keep the dance floor packed, working their moves to music, which, though played on a computer, sounds as if it’s coming from a Victrola. Along one side of the dance hall, which exudes faded grandeur, men sit at tables trying to catch the eye of a potential partner on the other side. Taking photos is frowned upon (this is a local activity, not a tourist event), so sit back with a glass of champagne (26 pesos) and enjoy the show.
探戈並沒有阿根廷的旅遊宣傳中所描述的那麼流行，但並不包括60歲以上的老人。看看La Milonga de los Consagrados（門票55比索，最低消費一杯酒水）裏的專注舞者吧，這裏的舞池擠滿了老年人，努力配合着音樂踏出舞步，音樂雖然是用電腦播放，聽上去卻帶有一種留聲機的質感。在壯麗半褪的舞廳一側，人們坐在桌旁，努力捕捉着身在另一側的潛在舞伴的目光。這裏並不歡迎拍照（這是本地活動，不是旅遊節目），所以坐下來喝杯香檳（26比索），盡情享受表演就好。
8. Live at the Power Plant | 8 p.m.
8.發電廠現場：晚上8:00
Once an electric power plant, the Usina del Arte was reopened as the city’s most impressive arts space in 2012 in La Boca, a portside postindustrial neighborhood, and it now hosts art exhibitions and an eclectic range of live music in two beautiful auditoriums. Performances range from the Buenos Aires Philharmonic to big band tunes to poetry/music combos, so check the website, , ahead of time. It’s also worth visiting during the day for a tour (free, 45 minutes) of the building’s striking Florentine Renaissance-style exterior and beautifully reformatted interior.
植物藝術(Usina del Arte)坐落於港口附近的後工業社區——博卡區(La Boca)，早年這裏是一座發電廠，2012年時重裝開張，成爲這座城市裏最令人驚豔的藝術空間，兩間漂亮的禮堂現在舉辦着藝術展和流派類型兼收幷蓄的現場音樂會。演出方既有布宜諾斯艾利斯愛樂樂團(Buenos Aires Philharmonic)，也有大型爵士樂隊，更有配樂詩朗誦，記得提前查看網站上的演出信息。白天也很值得來這裏參觀（免費，45分鐘），沿用佛羅倫薩文藝復興時期風格的外觀設計和整修後的精美內部，保管教你目不轉睛。
9. Steak and Sweetbreads | 10 p.m.
9.牛排與牛雜：晚上10:00
Going to an Argentine parrillada (barbecue restaurant) is practically compulsory here, but eschew the huge, tourist-filled dining rooms and book-long menus of the old standbys like Don Julio’s or Parrilla Pe and head instead to La Carniceria. This 24-seat modern parrillada opened in late 2014 and usually has just two (enormous) steaks on the menu, along with a roster of traditional starters brought into the 21st century (dinner for two, around 750 pesos). The beef comes from the owner’s farm and is smoked in-house, and the chorizo is homemade. Try the sweetbreads, which are glazed with honey and surrounded by kernels of corn.
到阿根廷式燒烤餐廳(parrillada)下館子，幾乎是這裏的固定節目，不過躲開Don Julio’s或Parrilla Pe那類餐室開闊、人頭攢動、菜單厚得像書一樣的常規去處，改去La Carniceria試試吧。這間共有24個座位的現代燒烤餐廳於2014年下半年開張，菜單上通常只有兩種（超大）牛排可選，還有各色各樣加入了21世紀特色的傳統開胃小吃（雙人晚餐售價750比索左右）。牛肉出自餐廳老闆自己開的農場，經過熏製，還有餐廳自制的西班牙辣香腸(chorizo)。試試這裏的牛雜，上面裹了一層蜂蜜並沾滿了穀粒。
10. Party in Secret | 12 a.m.
10.祕密派對：午夜12:00
Nights out in Buenos Aires can last until 6 a.m. — too long for just one bar. Hit up several, sampling the best of the city’s speakeasy culture at bares secretos. Start at Frank’s, making sure to grab the password from the bar’s Facebook page ahead of time (it’s hinted at in the daily post, your first guess is usually right). Give the password to the bouncer, who will direct you to a phone booth; dial the number he gives you; a door will open, and you’re in a long bar full of people drinking some of the city’s best cocktails (around 100 pesos). Ask the dapper bartenders for a Bison TT (vodka, green tea, ginger syrup), and people-watch from a red velvet sofa before moving on to Victoria Brown. Walk through the streetside cafe and open the door in the brick wall at the back. Inside is a steampunk fantasyland, with bartenders who mix drinks like the Desde Cuba Con Amor (120 pesos), a combination of aged rum, citrus and bitters that is literally smoking. Then get a modern take on Argentina’s traditional love of bitters at 878, a popular speakeasy. The dimly lit main bar is usually packed, but if you push through a door in the far wall, you’ll find another, somewhat quieter bar.
布宜諾斯艾利斯的夜生活可以一直持續到清晨6點——這麼長的時間可不能只耗在一間酒吧裏。在此精選幾間，作爲這座城市“地下酒吧”(bares secretos)文化的代表。首先是Frank’s，一定要記得提前從酒吧的Facebook主頁上找出密碼（會在每天發佈的帖子中有所暗示，基本上你的第一直覺就是對的）。將密碼告知門衛，他會把你帶到一座電話亭前；撥打他給你的號碼；大門打開，此時你便置身於一間人滿爲患的酒吧長廊，與大家一起飲用這座城市內最棒的雞尾酒（100比索左右）。讓衣着整潔的調酒師爲你調一杯Bison TT（以伏特加、綠茶、生薑糖漿調成），坐在紅色的天鵝絨沙發上觀賞一下這裏的人羣，然後移步至Victoria Brown。走過街邊的咖啡館，打開後面磚牆上的一扇門。裏面藏着一個蒸汽朋克風格的幻想世界，調酒師們會用陳年朗姆、柑橘和苦酒調出一杯杯的Desde Cuba Con Amor（120比索），它們真的會冒煙。然後到人氣地下酒吧“878”，來一杯阿根廷傳統苦酒調出的現代酒品。這裏光線昏暗的酒吧大堂通常擠滿了客人，但如果你推開遠處牆上的另一扇門，就會發現另一間多少安靜一些的酒吧。
Sunday
星期日
11. From Peru, With Love | Noon
11.祕魯敬獻：中午
After a late night, do like the locals and have a leisurely Sunday lunch. Porte were waiting with bated breath for La Mar to open, which it did in April 2015, thanks to the reputation of its celebrity chef Gastón Acurio. The Peruvian trendsetter’s Palermo Hollywood cebichería is sleek, with a spacious patio. Tuck into the degustación de ceviches, three flavorful ceviches, some served in their own fishy marinade known as leche de tigre. Add a couple of causas — dollops of mashed yellow potato topped with everything from olive cream to raw salmon (lunch for two, around 600 pesos).
通宵狂歡過後，一定要像當地人一樣，享受一頓悠閒的週日午餐。令布宜諾斯艾利斯人翹首期待已久的La Mar，終於在今年4月份盛大開業，這全要歸因於這間餐廳的明星主廚加斯頓·阿克瑞奧(Gastón Acurio)頭頂的光環。這間引領潮流的祕魯料理餐廳位於巴勒莫好萊塢區，裝潢優美，擁有一間寬敞的庭院。大吃一頓酸橘汁醃魚套餐(degustación de ceviches)，總共包含三條入味的酸橘汁醃魚，有的還醃在一種餐廳自制的魚香醃料“老虎奶”(leche de tigre)中。再來幾塊causa：一坨黃色的土豆泥，淋上包括橄欖奶油和生三文魚在內的各種澆頭（雙人午餐售價600比索左右）。
12. The Sport of Kings | 2 p.m.
12.王族運動：下午2:00
At any given time, seven of the eight best polo players in the world hail from Argentina, and the sport is experiencing a revival of sorts, at least according to the ultra-charming Ezequiel Moreno of Polo Tour. He runs half-day polo lessons (1,400 pesos, includes transportation) at the sprawling Estancia La Martina belonging to polo’s foremost dynasty, the Cambiaso family, where you’ll learn how to ride a horse, whack the ball with a mallet and do both at the same time, all in lush green environs just 40 minutes from the city center.
無論什麼時期，世界上最好的八名馬球選手中，總有七名來自阿根廷，而今這項運動正在經歷着某種復興，至少在馬球巡迴賽(Polo Tour)中格外魅力四射的埃塞基耶爾·莫雷諾(Ezequiel Moreno)看來確然如此。他在佔地遼闊的拉馬丁納牧場(Estancia La Martina)開辦時長半天的馬球課（1,400比索，提供接送），這座牧場屬於馬球界的王朝豪門坎比亞索家族(Cambiaso family)所有，距離市中心僅有40分鐘的路程，在這片鬱鬱蔥蔥的郊外天地內，你將會學習如何騎馬奔馳，用木槌擊球，以及如何同時完成這兩個動作。
Lodging
住宿
The Glu Hotel. Despite the slightly off-putting name, the Glu (Godoy Cruz 1733; ; doubles from $150) is a charmer: all the room are suites with comfy king-size beds, and the staff members are some of the friendliest and most helpful in the entire city.
格魯精品酒店(The Glu Hotel)。格魯酒店（Godoy Cruz 1733；；雙人間150美元起）的名字聽上去有點噁心，但卻是處很有魅力的地方：所有的客房均爲配有舒適大雙人牀的套間，酒店的員工也是全城最友善最樂於助人的人。
Fierro Hotel. With a great location in Palermo Hollywood, the Fierro (Soler 5862; ; doubles from $129) is great value, with the amenities (pillow menu, Nespresso machines) of a much more expensive hotel. The suites, some with balconies, are spacious, and the ground-floor restaurant, Uco, does one of the best brunches in town.
費耶羅酒店(Fierro Hotel)。費耶羅酒店（Soler 5862；；雙人間129美元起）坐落在巴勒莫好萊塢街區(Palermo Hollywood)上的一處絕佳地點，性價比極高，配備的設施（不同枕頭可選，奈斯派索[Nespresso]咖啡機）都是遠爲更貴的酒店纔會使用的。套間空間寬敞，有的還配備陽臺，一樓餐廳Uco做出來的早午餐是全城最棒的。
