36小時玩轉普羅旺斯 36 Hours in Provence
Exploring Provence’s vast, rugged sprawl can be exhilarating — and daunting. From the salt marshes of the Camargue to storybook hilltop villages like Gordes to the lively Mediterranean city of Marseille, the famously picturesque French region offers an array of landscapes and experiences that could take months to uncover. Where to stArt? Arles and Avignon. Just 20 minutes apart by train, the Roman-era town of Arles and the medieval walled city of Avignon enfold a dense mix of architectural beauty, world-class art, sun-soaked Proven gastronomy and Unesco World Heritage sites. Toss in ambitious new cultural spaces, a hint of urban cool and a high-speed rail link with Paris (about three hours away), and the result is a southern French smorgasbord that can be devoured in a weekend.
探索普羅旺斯地區高低不平的廣袤疆域，是令人興奮的事情，但同時也令人生畏。從卡馬格(Camargue)的鹽沼地，到戈爾德石頭村(Gordes)童話般的山頂村莊，再到充滿活力的地中海城市馬賽，這片素以風景如畫聞名的法國地區，爲遊客帶來了目不暇給的景觀與感受，足以讓遊客花上幾個月的時間去發掘。該從哪裏開始好呢？我們推薦阿爾勒(Arles)和阿維尼翁(Avignon)。建於羅馬時期的小鎮阿爾勒與中世紀城牆環繞下的城都阿維尼翁之間相距不遠，乘坐火車僅需20分鐘便可抵達，兩地均集結了大量的壯麗建築、頂級藝術、沐浴在陽光中的普羅旺斯美食和聯合國教科文組織世界遺產。將野心勃勃的新建文化空間，幾分都市的酷意和連通巴黎的高鐵（車程約三小時）盡數拋諸身後，便可在一個愉快的週末，愜意地享用一道由法國南部呈獻的文化混搭自助餐。
Friday
星期五
1. Art of Arles | 4 p.m.
1.阿爾勒的藝術：下午4:00
Vincent van Gogh created more than 300 works during his 15 months in Arles, in 1888 and 1889. Alas, not one van Gogh canvas remains in Arles, not even at the splashy new Fondation Vincent van Gogh, which organizes van Gogh-related exhibitions by contemporary artists. Practically his only trace resides in the Musée Réattu, a castlelike 15th-century edifice containing an 1889 letter he wrote to his friend Paul Gauguin. In a tiny scrawl, he praises Wagner, bemoans the prose of “Uncle Tom’s Cabin” and laments his psychological state. The museum also has drawings by Picasso, sketches by the fashion designer Christian Lacroix (an Arles native) and photographs by everyone from Brassa to Berenice Abbott. Admission, 8 euros, or $8.66 at $1.08 to the euro.
文森特·梵高(Vincent van Gogh)曾在1888年至1889年間，在阿爾勒逗留了15個月，其間創作了300多幅作品。可惜的是，梵高的這些畫作中，卻沒有一幅留在阿爾勒，就連專以組織當代藝術家舉辦梵高相關藝術展著稱的新建機構梵高基金會(Fondation Vincent van Gogh)裏也沒有。實際上，他在這裏的僅存蹤跡出現在雷阿蒂博物館(Musée Réattu)，一棟建於15世紀的城堡式大型建築，裏面保存着他在1889年寫給朋友保羅·高更(Paul Gauguin)的一份信。他用一手潦草的蠅頭小字，讚賞瓦格納(Wagner)，惋惜《湯姆叔叔的小屋》(Uncle Tom’s Cabin)的乏味文字，哀悼自己的心理狀態。館內還有畢加索的畫作，時尚設計師克里斯汀·拉克魯瓦(Christian Lacroix)的速寫，以及包括布拉塞(Brassa)、貝倫尼斯·阿博特(Berenice Abbott)在內的攝影大師的作品。門票：8歐元，按1.08美元兌換1歐元計算，約合8.66美元。
2. Roman Roamings | 5:30 p.m.
2.羅馬閒步：下午5:30
They came, they saw, they erected an entertainment complex. Dating to the first century A.D., the grand Roman arena, les Arènes, once packed in some 20,000 spectators during gladiator battles with exotic beasts — and with one another. Maintaining the tradition of men fighting animals, the arena hosts summer bullfights. Next door, the ruins of the colonnaded theater are a pleasant spot to wander or watch a concert. Admission for both sites is 8 euros.
他們來了，他們看到了，他們建了一座娛樂中心。古羅馬大競技場的歷史可追溯到公元一世紀，曾可容納兩萬名觀衆觀看角鬥士與異域野獸的對戰——還有角鬥士之間的對戰。這座競技場保留了人獸對戰的傳統項目，每年夏季都會舉辦鬥牛比賽。隔壁就是這間廊柱式建築的遺址，無論信步閒逛還是觀賞音樂會，都是一處令人愉悅的去處。門票：包含以上兩處景點，8歐元。
3. Aim for the Middle | 8 p.m.
3.探索中部地區：晚上8:00
Inside Le Galoubet, which evokes both the Middle Ages (stone walls, beamed ceilings, massive hearth) and the mid 20th century (industrial lamps, red neon sign), an upper-crust crowd dines on traditional French cuisine that is far from middling. The three-course menu (31 euros) might start with crunchy local vegetables and cervelle de canut (a zesty cheese spread) or a soft-boiled egg atop a colorful arrangement of soft-cooked red peppers, eggplant and ham slices. Mains might include hanger steak with mushrooms or veal in tangy wine-mustard sauce. For dessert, the cake enveloped in a chocolate shell with sour cherry sorbet on top is a rich, dark, citric delight.
Le Galoubet餐廳教人同時想到中世紀（石牆、橫樑天花板、大型壁爐）和20世紀中葉（工業用吊燈、紅色霓虹燈)，這裏是一羣上流人士享用傳統法式料理的地方，遠非二流水平可比。這裏的三道菜套餐（31歐元）的頭盤，可能會是一道清脆的本地蔬菜配絲工腦（cervelle de canut，一種風味芝士醬），或是一隻溏心蛋，放在一盤五顏六色精彩擺盤的半熟紅椒、茄子和火腿片上。主菜可以是烤腹肉牛排配蘑菇，或者是小牛肉淋上味道濃郁的紅酒芥末醬。甜品方面，澆上酸莓雪芭的巧克力脆皮蛋糕是一道口感飽滿厚重的檸檬風味美食。
4. Starry Nightcap | 10 p.m.
4.星光下的睡前酒：晚上10:00
A nocturnal walk quickly becomes an art history lesson. Heading west from Place Lamartine, you arrive at the riverside spot where van Gogh painted “Cafe Terrace at Night.” Strolling the east side of Place du Forum, you might recognize the scene from “The Night Café,” marked by a signboard. For drinks, avoid the square’s tourist traps and instead go around the corner to Baràvin, a cheerful wine bar, for a glass of medium-bodied local Mont-Redon red (4.50 euros).
夜間漫步很快變成了一堂生動的藝術史課程。從拉馬丁廣場(Place Lamartine)出發往西走，便會抵達梵高當年畫出《夜晚露天咖啡座》(Cafe Terrace at Night)的那處河濱。在集會廣場(Place du Forum)的東邊閒逛，說不定能認出《夜間咖啡館》(The Night Café)中的畫面，那裏也有一塊標識牌。酒水方面，不妨避開廣場上專坑遊客的黑店，到角落位置的Baràvin看看，這是一間氣氛歡快的紅酒吧，可以品嚐一杯當地的黑洞山酒莊( Mont-Redon)釀造的中等酒體紅葡萄酒（4.50歐元）。
Saturday
星期六
5. Pope Art | 11 a.m.
5.教皇藝術：上午11:00
It’s good to be pope. If you happened to be one of those who lived in Avignon during the religious turmoil of the 14th century (when the papacy abandoned Rome), you would have presided over an immense Gothic palace filled with soaring banquet halls, huge vaulted chapels and lush gardens populated with peacocks, camels and other exotic fauna. These areas and more are viewable in the Palais des Papes, whose smaller rooms are equally impressive. The papal bedroom is painted with cosmic swirls of vegetative motifs, while the study is covered by mystical frescoes of a nocturnal stag hunt in a forest inhabited by a dragon and unicorn. Admission, 11 euros.
當教皇挺不錯的。如果你有緣成爲14世紀宗教紛爭時期（教廷棄羅馬而去）住在阿維尼翁的某位教皇，你將會掌管着一座壯觀的哥特式宮殿，裏面有高聳的宴會廳，巨大的穹頂教堂，還有鬱鬱蔥蔥的花園，養着孔雀、駱駝和其他來自不同國家的動物。這些地方以及其他的一些風景，均可從這座教皇宮(Palais des Papes)內一覽無遺，而宮內那些面積沒有那麼大的房間，讓人驚豔的程度與那些地方相比也不遑多讓。教皇臥室內繪滿了植物符號構成的漩渦圖案，書房的牆面上則是些神祕的壁畫，描繪了在一座住着龍和獨角獸的森林裏展開夜間獵鹿活動的畫面。門票：11歐元。
6. Lush Lunch | 1:30 p.m.
6.豐盛午餐：下午1:30
Seeking a light lunch? Seek elsewhere. At L’Epicerie — decorated like a 1950s French grocery store — richness rules the Franco-Mediterranean-North-African menu. Foie gras terrine is sweetened with mango and cinnamon, while scallops are loaded into a dense leek mille-feuille. If veal tagine with couscous doesn’t sound sufficiently bloat-inducing, the robust pink duck meat comes with hearty potato gratin. Raspberry cheesecake and a spongy French toast in warm caramel sauce guarantee blissful post-meal immobility. A three-course lunch for two is about 75 euros.
想來一頓輕午餐？還是去其他地方找吧。在裝潢仿若50年代法式雜貨店的餐廳L’Epicerie，彙集了多種法國、地中海與北非菜式的菜單，主打的就是“豐盛”二字。鵝肝醬用芒果和肉桂增加了甜味，厚味韭菜千層派的內部則填裝着扇貝。如果小牛肉燉鍋配蒸粗麥粉聽上去還不夠教你胃口大開，這裏還有香噴噴的嫩鴨肉配上豐盛的土豆焗菜。覆盆子芝士蛋糕和鬆軟的法式吐司澆溫焦糖，定能讓你在餐後滿足得動都不想動。兩人份的三道菜午餐，價格約爲75歐元。
7. Books, Pillows and Bowties | 3 p.m.
7. 書、枕頭與領結：下午3:00
Whether you’re desperate for a skateboard-shaped chopping board or just a coffee-table book about, say, breasts, People’s Paradise provides. One of several hip fashion and design shops near Place St.-Didier, the lifestyle emporium outfits you for summer with ultralight, hand-dyed T-shirts (30 euros) from the Proven brand Red Soul, and red rolled-up shorts (59 euros) by Elevenparis. Kooky and colorful, the namesake shop of Isabelle Erizé sells her lacy, tasseled Baroque-style handbags (25 euros) and cushions mixing stripes and leopard print (27 euros). CQFD boutique, dedicated to indie French brands, adds wooden sunglasses (160 to 190 euros) from Shelter and wooden bow ties (65 to 70 euros) by Bowtify.
不管你急切渴望的是一塊滑雪板狀的菜板，還是一本談論胸部的茶几書，People’s Paradise都能滿足你。這家大型生活方式百貨商場，是聖迪迪埃廣場(Place Saint-Didier)附近的幾家嘻哈時尚設計店的其中一間，在夏季向顧客出售普羅旺斯本地品牌Red Soul的超輕薄手染T恤（30歐元），還有Elevenparis的紅色卷腿短褲。伊莎貝爾·埃利澤(Erizé de Souza)以自己名字命名的商店設計古怪，色彩豔麗，專售由她設計的巴洛克手袋（25歐元）和靠墊，前者綴滿蕾絲與流蘇，後者則飾以混雜着條紋與豹紋的印花圖案（27歐元）。CQFD精品店專售法國的獨立品牌，爲顧客帶來Shelter的木製太陽鏡（160～190歐元）和Bowtify的木製領結（65～70歐元）。
8. Vincent, Finally | 5 p.m.
8.千呼萬喚文森特：下午5:00
A rare treasure hides in the little Musée Angladon: one of the few van Gogh paintings in Provence. Blazing with color — mint green sky, orange-pink grass and fuzzy blue-red railroad cars — “Wagons de Chemin de Fer,” painted in Arles in 1888, shows the depressive Dutchman in full visionary mode. The same room includes early Picasso gouaches, Cezanne’s geometric, hard-edge still life “Nature Morte au Pot de Grès”, and works by Modigliani, Degas and Vuillard. Admission, 6.50 euros.
在小小的安格拉東博物館(Musée Angladon)裏，隱藏着一樣珍貴的寶藏：普羅旺斯僅存的幾幅梵高畫作中的一幅。薄荷綠色的天空，桔粉色的草叢，朦朧的藍紅色火車車廂——《鐵軌上的火車》(Wagons de Chemin de Fer)所用的色彩令人目不暇給，梵高於1988年在阿爾勒創作了這幅油畫，用一種純粹出於假想的形式，描繪了處於壓抑氣氛下的荷蘭。就在同一間藏室內，還收藏着畢加索早期的水粉畫，塞尚強調幾何構圖、線條硬朗的靜物畫《靜物與灰色的罐子》，以及莫迪利亞尼(Modigliani)、德加(Degas)和維亞爾(Vuillard)的作品。門票：6.50歐元。
9. Mind L’Agape | 7:30 p.m.
9.思想盛宴：晚上7:30
Opened last year, L’Agape — pronounced “lah-GAHP” (the word means a fraternal meal in French) contains stylish vintage industrial décor to accommodate the stylish all-ages crowd. Appetizers and desserts are the standouts, notably the veal tartare starter (served with runny warm egg, girolle mushrooms and blue vitelotte potato chips for a textural mash-up) and the chilled nougat finisher (drenched in honey mousse and studded with radiant citrus-loaded orange and grapefruit slices). Mains, from roast lamb saddle with fried zucchini to pollock fillet in an olive crust, are slightly less flavorful but solid. Three-course menus at 32 and 45 euros a person.
於去年開業的L’Agape（唸作“lah-GAHP”，在法語中爲“兄弟聚餐”之意），採用了時尚的復古工業裝飾風格，適合招待所有年齡段的人羣。開胃菜和甜品是該店的亮點所在，尤爲值得一提的就是頭一道的韃靼牛肉（配搭溫熱的溏心蛋、雞油菌和藍紫薯條，達到食材上的混搭）和最後一道的冷凍牛乳糖（上面澆了蜂蜜慕斯，然後擺上了一些柑橘片和西柚片）。主菜既有烤羊脊配炸西葫蘆，也有覆滿橄欖殼的炸鱈魚條，口味道稍顯不夠濃郁，但勝在實在。三道菜套餐人均32～45歐元。
10. Wine and Watermills | 10 p.m.
10.紅酒與水磨：晚上10:00
Bourgeois or bohemian? For a chic drink, the sultry interiors of et evoke a Mediterranean villa, thanks to white walls, white curtains, white ceiling, a white floor and white wine (Domaine Chapoutier viognier; 25 euros a bottle). To go casual, stroll the cobbled Rue des Teinturiers. Along a stream with old wooden water mills, the street has a village feel that draws local cool kids, tattooed dads, musicians and alternative types. L’Offset, a sprawling raw concrete space with exposed ducts and factory-style lamps, provides glasses of Villages wine (3.30 euros) and live jazz, blues and French classics.
是小資情調還是波西米亞風？爲了打造時尚的飲酒環境，et採用了極富魅力的室內設計，白牆、白窗簾、白天花板、白地板，還有白葡萄酒（夏波地酒莊[Domaine Chapoutier]的維歐尼[viognier]，25歐元一瓶），讓人想到地中海風格的別墅。若想換個放鬆休閒一些的地方，不妨到鋪着鵝卵石地面的Rue des Teinturiers去逛逛。這條街道沿着一條建有數座古老木製水磨的小溪伸展出去，這裏有一種村莊的感覺，吸引了當地的時髦少年、紋身老爹、音樂人和其他類型的人羣。L’Offset是一處形狀不規則的粗陋水泥建築，隨處可見暴露在外的管道和工廠一般的吊燈，這裏爲顧客提供杯裝的隆河谷村莊級( Villages)紅酒（一杯3.30歐元）和爵士、藍調、法式經典的現場演出。
Sunday
星期日
11. Art Times Two | 11 a.m.
11.藝術復藝術：上午11:00
Reopened in July, the Collection Lambert, a museum of excellent modern and contemporary art, has expanded into the adjacent townhouse, doubling its size. The permanent collection includes sculpture by Sol LeWitt, paintings by Jean-Michel Basquiat, photos by Nan Goldin and much besides. The museum is also hosting an inaugural special exhibition (through Oct. 11) about Patrice Chéreau, the late French opera, theater and film director. In addition to Chéreau’s personal effects, sketches and notes, the show intersperses creations by artists who inspired him or relate to his oeuvre, from classic French painters like Delacroix to contemporary international figures like Anselm Kiefer. Admission, 10 euros.
博物館藍貝爾藝術館藏(Collection Lambert)專事收藏頂級的現當代藝術作品，於今年7月重新開業，改建後的面積擴大了一倍，將隔壁的聯排別墅也納入了進來。館內的永久藏品有索爾·勒維特(Sol LeWitt)的雕塑，讓—米切爾·巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)的油畫，南·戈爾丁(Nan Goldin)的攝影作品，以及許許多多的其他作品。這間博物館還在舉辦一場開業特展（展覽至10月11日），主題爲帕特里斯·夏洛爾(Patrice Chéreau)，他是法國一位已故的歌劇、戲劇及電影導演。除了夏洛爾的私人用品、速寫和筆記外，這場特展還加入了一些受他啓發或者與他畢生之作相關的藝術家的創作，既有德拉克羅瓦(Delacroix)這樣的古典法國油畫家，也有安塞姆·基弗（Anselm Kiefer）這樣的現代國際名家。門票：10歐元。
12. Shop and Shuck | 1 p.m.
12.購物與住宿：下午1:00
Nature’s bounty literally sprouts from the walls of Avignon’s covered market, Les Halles, thanks to an exterior “vertical garden.” Inside, Provence’s cornucopia spills from produce stalls, cheese mongers, delis, florists, bakers and butchers. Noteworthy offerings include a variety of salts flavored with everything from fish to hibiscus flower (3 euros for 50 grams) at Le Moulin à Epices and wines at Les 20 des Halles. For lunch, La Cabane d’Oléron serves grilled fresh scallops on skewers (7 euros), fine de claire oysters (six for 8.50 euros) and other marine morsels.
大自然恩惠，真的就是從阿維尼翁的室內商場Les Halles的牆內“萌芽”的——這裏有一處室外的“垂直花園”。商場內，普羅旺斯的豐裕之角傾倒出一間間的蔬果店、奶酪小攤、熟食店、花店、麪包店和肉店。值得關注的商品有香料磨坊(Le Moulin à Epices)的食用鹽，從魚香到木槿花，各類風味應有盡有（50克3歐元），還有Les 20 des Halles的隆河谷地區紅酒。午餐可以去La Cabane d’Oléron，這裏供應烤鮮貝串（一串7歐元）、精製龍蝦（6只8.50歐元）及其他海產品。
Lodging
住宿
Arles’ du Forum (10, place du Forum; 33-4-90-93-48-95; ) occupies a historical stone townhouse with a courtyard swimming pool. The 38 rooms are done in floral patterns and country French décor, while the lobby and bar are filled with gramophones, steamer trunks and other retro knickknacks. Doubles in August from 80 euros.
阿爾勒論壇酒店(Arles’ du Forum)（論壇廣場10號；33-4-90-93-48-95；）位於一棟歷史悠久的石制聯排別墅內，附帶一座院內游泳池。38間客房裝飾着花朵圖案和法式鄉村風格的佈置，大堂和酒吧內均擺放着留聲機、扁皮箱及其他復古物件。8月份的雙人間價格爲80歐元起。
In Avignon, Rue du Portail Boquier contains two worthy lodging options. Within an 18th-century edifice, the 12 simple rooms of Hotel Boquier (No. 6; 33-4-90-82-34-43; ) sport bright Proven colors. Doubles run 65 to 80 euros from April through October. For a rooftop pool and high-end restaurant, the 80-room L’Hotel Saint-Louis (No. 20; 33-4-90-27-55-55; ) occupies a Renaissance-era Jesuit school and a modern addition by Jean Nouvel. Doubles in August start at 112.58 euros.
在阿維尼翁，Rue du Portail Boquier地區有兩處物有所值的下榻地可供選擇。在一棟建於18世紀的大廈內，酒店(Hotel Boquier)（6號；33-4-90-82-34-43；）的12間簡式客房，展現出普羅旺斯的明亮色彩。4月份至8月份的雙人間價格爲65到80歐元不等。若想享受屋頂游泳池和高端餐廳，不妨前往共有80間客房的酒店L’Hotel Saint-Louis（20號；33-4-90-27-55-55；），這裏在文藝復興時期曾是一間耶穌會學校，在現代又由讓·努維爾(Jean Nouvel)進行了加建。8月份的雙人間價格爲112.58歐元起。
