36小時感受新舊金山 36 Hours in San Francisco

Don’t blink or you’ll miss the next “new” San Francisco. This is a city that’s reinventing itself with every refresh of your Twitter feed, with cranes rising all over downtown and an army of young tech workers pouring into neighborhoods across the city. In the ’60s, San Francisco was synonymous with the hippie counterculture; in the ’90s, it was the dot-com boom (and eventual bust, in the early 2000s); more recently, it was the ripening of the Bay Area food movement. Now it’s home to such new-establishment icons of the digital economy as Airbnb, Uber and, yes, Twitter. But don’t be fooled by the shiny patina: San Francisco is more than just the physical headquarters of our virtual world. There are some things that haven’t changed, and by themselves, are reason enough to revisit: the mind-boggling views along that glorious waterfront; the Mission’s still-feisty, freaky, welcome-all-comers character; the meandering natural pleasures of Golden Gate Park. Even when classic San Francisco rubs up against new San Francisco, the friction, though at times contentious (Google bus protests, the anti-eviction fight), is also where the community-conscious activist roots of this city are as vital and visible as ever.

別眨眼，否則你就會錯過“下一秒的”舊金山。你的Twitter首頁每刷新一次，這座城市就會自我更新一次。高聳的起重機遍佈市區，年輕的科技工作者成羣結隊地涌入城市的各個角落。上世紀60年代，舊金山是“嬉皮反主流文化”的代名詞；到了90年代，這裏成爲了網絡爆炸的發源地（這股熱潮最終在21世紀初衰落）；近年，灣區的食品運動在這裏發展成熟。如今，舊金山是新興數字經濟的大本營，其中的代表包括Airbnb、Uber，當然還有Twitter。不過，別被它光鮮的外表矇蔽了：舊金山不僅僅是網絡虛擬世界的“實體總部”。這裏仍有一些始終沒變的元素，而這些元素足以成爲你故地重遊的理由：海濱沿岸令人驚歎的壯麗景色；教會區(Mission)那依舊活躍、古怪又好客的個性；漫步於金門公園(Golden Gate Park)，體會大自然的樂趣。當傳統與現代碰撞之時，儘管這些摩擦有時存在爭議（比如抵制谷歌員工班車、反驅逐運動），但這正是這座城市中具有社區意識的激進分子的根基所在，它的重要性和顯著性也從未消減。

Friday

星期五

1. City by the Bay | 4 p.m.

1.海濱漫步：下午4:00

Make time for a stroll along the Embarcadero, San Francisco’s quintessential bayside pedestrian promenade. Your starting point is just south of the Bay Bridge, at Red’s Java House on Pier 30. A no-frills waterfront dive the San Francisco Chronicle once called “the Chartres Cathedral of cheap eats,” Red’s has been around in some form or another since 1912, when longshoremen came for the cheeseburger-and-beer breakfast special. Nowadays, it’s a favorite stop for Giants fans on their way to a ballgame at AT&T Park, home to the 2010, 2012 and 2014 World Series champs. Join the cheerfully egalitarian crowd for a sourdough cheeseburger ($5.52) and a beer on the outdoor patio — it has a view that goes for miles.

留出時間去英巴卡迪諾(Embarcadero)散個步。這是舊金山最精華的一段海濱步行區。以海灣大橋(Bay Bridge)南端、也就是30號碼頭的Red’s Java House餐廳作爲起點。這家樸實無華的小餐館曾被《舊金山紀事報》(San Francisco Chronicle)譽爲“實惠食物的沙特爾主教座堂(Chartres Cathedral)”。Red’s餐廳的歷史要追溯到1912年，期間經歷過不同形式的變遷。剛開業時，碼頭工人們來這裏吃芝士漢堡配啤酒的早晨特餐。如今，這裏成爲了舊金山巨人隊(Giants)的球迷們在去AT&T球場(AT&T Park)看比賽的路上最喜歡光顧的地方。該球場曾是2010年、2012年和2014年世界棒球冠軍賽(World Series champs)的舉辦地。點一份酵母芝士漢堡（5.52美元）配啤酒，和這羣熱情的平等主義者們一起在戶外露臺上欣賞延綿不絕的海景。

2. To Market | 5:30 p.m.

2.趕集去：下午5:30

It’s hard to believe that it’s been 12 years since the century-plus-old Ferry Building reopened as a grand marketplace and European-style food hall, after decades of blight and decay in the shadow of the former Embarcadero Freeway (which was taken down after the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake). Though the Ferry Building has come to represent all the modern trends in the Bay Area food world, it hews to tradition with a thrice-weekly outdoor farmers’ market, plus indoor food stalls in former ferry berths; the butcher, the baker and the cheesemonger are all on hand to talk to you. Just browsing is a pleasure: It’s all eye candy, from the ceramics to the chocolate. And whatever your age, watching the ferries come and go never gets old.

難以置信，擁有超過百年曆史的渡輪大廈(Ferry Building)已經重新開放12年了。這裏現在是一個大型集市和歐洲風格的美食廣場。在此之前，該大廈在英巴卡迪諾高速通道(Embarcadero Freeway)的陰影下（該通道在1989年洛馬普列塔[Loma Prieta]大地震後被拆除）經歷了數十年的萎靡和衰敗。儘管渡輪大廈引領着灣區的美食潮流，它也保留着每週開三天戶外農貿市場的傳統，在曾經的渡船碼頭還有室內的美食攤位；屠夫、糕點師、乾酪店主都隨時準備好跟你聊幾句。哪怕只是隨便逛逛也是一種樂趣：從陶瓷到巧克力，各類商品都令人大飽眼福。而且，無論你是什麼年紀，看渡船來來往往永遠都不算過時的活動。

3. Two Piers | 7 p.m.

3.兩個碼頭的晚餐：晚上7:00

Charles Phan, of Slanted Door fame, has shifted gears with Hard Water, a tiny, New Orleans-inflected whiskey bar and restaurant that opened in 2013 on Pier 3. The kitchen turns out a mean fried chicken — the better to soak up the powerful cocktails. Whiskey flights start at $22, and are a gentle intro to a deep list. For a heartier meal, head two piers over to Michael Chiarello’s Spanish-meets-California Coqueta, where the extraordinary paella — bomba rice with clams, shrimp, chorizo and broccolini in fragrant broth made from shellfish and jamón serrano, $45 — is enough to feed three.

2013年，Slanted Door餐廳的名主廚查爾斯·潘(Charles Phan)轉換了風格，在3號碼頭開了一家新奧爾良風格的威士忌小餐吧。菜品以炸雞爲主——最好還是試試他家出名的雞尾酒。威士忌套餐起價22美元，所選的酒都是溫和的入門款。如果想吃點好的，再走兩個碼頭，去名廚邁克爾·切洛(Michael Chiarello)的Coqueta 餐廳，這裏融合了西班牙和加州風味。美妙的西班牙什錦飯——以邦巴米爲底，澆上用貝類和塞拉諾火腿熬製的鮮美肉湯，裏面有蛤肉、大蝦、西班牙辣香腸及西蘭花，售價45美元——一份足夠三個人吃。

4. Nightcaps | 9 p.m.

4. 睡前酒：晚上9:00

A bar in the Mission is an appropriate place to end the night. At the divey, atmospheric Royal Cuckoo, great cocktails are the rule — try the Carnival Mule, with cacha愀, ginger beer, Domaine de Canton, tangerine and lime — as is live music Wednesday through Sunday nights showcasing the house’s old-fashioned Hammond organ. Outdoor drinking is an option at Zeitgeist, a punk-spirited biergarten and neighborhood institution; its native population is heavy on the bikers and bike messengers. Don’t take selfies, or management might boot you out — service is gruff, and proud of it.

教會區(Mission)的酒吧最適合作爲睡前消遣。地下風格的Royal Cuckoo富有情調，提供優質雞尾酒是他們的原則——試試Carnival Mule，用巴西朗姆酒(cacha愀)、薑汁啤酒、法國坎頓力嬌酒(Domaine de Canton)、柑橘及青檸調製而成——酒吧從週三到週日每天晚上都有現場音樂表演，用的是酒吧里老式的電子琴。如果想在戶外喝酒，Zeitgeist是個不錯的選擇，這是一家朋克風格的露天啤酒館，靠近居民區；那裏的原始居民很多是騎手或騎車的送信員。別在那兒自拍，不然經理可能會把你趕出去——服務態度粗暴，但他們引以爲豪。

Saturday

星期六

5. Break Bread | 10 a.m.

5.麪包早餐：上午10:00

Along 24th Street in the Mission, Mexican bakeries are still where mornings begin. For just a dollar or two, pick up sugar-dusted pan dulce or custard-filled pastries with your coffee at La Mejor Bakery or Panaderia La Mexicana, and watch the neighborhood wake up. Then head south for a climb up over windswept Bernal Hill to the sprawling Alemany Farmers’ Market, said to be the oldest in the state of California, improbably situated near where Interstate 280 crosses Highway 101. The weekly market still offers the best cornucopia in the city: The greens alone regularly range from Chinese long beans, pea shoots and bok choy to dandelion, kale and mustard greens (about $5 for three bunches). Can’t fix what ain’t broke.

在教會區的第24街上，墨西哥麪包房始終是一天開始的地方。只要花一到兩美元，就能在La Mejor Bakery或Panaderia La Mexicana買個裹着糖粉的甜麪包，或卡仕達奶油夾心的酥皮點心，喝着咖啡，看周圍慢慢甦醒。然後往南走，爬上風大的貝爾納爾高地(Bernal Hill)，整塊區域都是阿勒馬尼農貿市場(Alemany Farmers’ Market)——據說是加州最古老的農貿市場，位置有些特別，在208號州際公路和101號國道交界附近。市場每週開放一天，這裏的蔬果仍然是舊金山最好的：單是綠色蔬菜，常見的就有中國豇豆、豌豆苗、小白菜、蒲公英，羽衣甘藍和芥菜（大約5美元可以買三捆）。簡直無可挑剔。

6. Picnic in the Park | 12 p.m.

6.公園野餐：中午12:00

Bring your provisions for a picnic at the newly spiffed-up Dolores Park, where an $8 million renovation made over the northern half of the park with new tennis courts; six acres of fresh, grassy splendor; and expanded restrooms (this last is critical to a comfortable afternoon). The other half of the park will get similar treatment in the coming year. What hasn’t changed: the diverse crush of humanity, and the excellent vistas of the San Francisco skyline.

帶着你的食物去裝飾一新的多洛雷斯公園(Dolores Park)野餐吧。耗資800萬美元的翻新工程之後，公園的北半部多了幾個新的網球場、一片6英畝（約2.4萬平方米）的清新草坪，還有寬敞的洗手間（最後這項對於“一個舒適的下午”來說極爲重要）。明年，在公園的另一半也會進行類似的整修，但始終如一的是這裏形形色色的擁擠人羣，和舊金山天際線的壯麗景觀。

7. The People’s Art | 1:30 p.m.

7.人民的藝術：下午1:30

Take stock of the Mission’s murals with Precita Eyes, a neighborhood arts organization that has been sponsoring local and international mural projects and offering classes for nearly four decades. Docents lead weekly mural walks ($20, with discounts for students and seniors) through alleys and streets dense with color, and add stories and context to ever-shifting images that comment on everything from human rights to Hurricane Katrina.

和Precita Eyes一起盤點教會區的壁畫。在將近四十年裏，這個藝術組織一直贊助本地及國際的壁畫項目，並開設課程。有講解員帶領每週一次的壁畫導覽（門票：20美元，學生及長者有優惠），走過這些色彩密集的小巷和街道，爲大家講述壁畫的故事和背景。這些壁畫千變萬化，探討從人權到卡特里娜颶風的各種主題。

8. Two Ways to Taste | 7 p.m.

8.東西風味晚餐：晚上7:00

Put yourself in the expert hands of some of the Mission’s best neighborhood chefs. At Ichi Sushi & Ni Bar’s airy new space, request a seat at the bar for omakase, or chef’s choice, and be entertained by the jewel-toned march of seafood across your plate — perhaps wild salmon, sweet shrimp heads and lightly seared saba (about $65 for 12 pieces). Or try the three-course menu and wine pairing at Heirloom Cafe ($65), an elegant neighborhood spot that might smartly present a bavette steak and maitake mushrooms with a malbec. At both establishments, fresh, simple dishes and friendly service are standouts, and the price is right.

把自己的胃交給教會區最棒的廚子們吧。在Ichi Sushi & Ni Bar通透的新空間找個位子，來一份“拜託料理”(omakase)（注：無菜單，由廚師來定）或廚師精選，讓整盤寶石色調的海鮮來款待你——也許會有野生鮭魚、甜蝦的頭以及輕火炙鯖魚（12件大約65美元）。或者去Heirloom Café品嚐三道菜配葡萄酒的套餐（65美元），這家雅緻的教會區餐廳可能會爲你奉上牛排（腰腹部細肉）配舞菇和一杯馬爾貝克紅酒(malbec)。這兩家餐廳新鮮簡約的菜品和友好的服務都是數一數二，而且價格合理。

9. One for the Team | 9 p.m.

9.保齡之夜：晚上9:00

Bring friends for a game or two at the Mission Bowling Club, the city’s first new bowling alley in 40 years when it opened in 2012. The owners, Sommer Peterson and Molly Bradshaw, wanted to conjure the intimate, friendly neighborhood alley of their youth — but with really good food (and sans fluorescent lighting). They’ve succeeded. Two of the six lanes are held for drop-ins most nights, but you’ll probably want to make a reservation (reservations can be made a week ahead, $35 to $55 per lane per hour).

帶上你的朋友們，去教會區保齡球俱樂部(Mission Bowling Club)打上一兩局。這是舊金山近40年來的第一家新保齡球館，於2012年開業。老闆索默·彼得森(Sommer Peterson)和莫莉·布拉德肖(Molly Bradshaw)最初是想爲社區的青少年打造一個溫馨友好的保齡球館——但要有好吃的食物（不要熒光燈）。他們成功了。在大多數晚間，六條球道中有兩條是爲臨時訪客保留的，但你可能也需要預約（提前一週接受預約，每球道每小時35美元到55美元不等）。

Sunday

星期日

10. Bookworms Welcome | 10 a.m.

10.歡迎書蟲：上午10:00

First there was Green Apple Books: Opened in 1967, it’s a literary institution. Now there’s Green Apple Books on the Park, perfectly situated for a morning browse along the Inner Sunset’s Ninth Avenue, just south of Golden Gate Park. Don’t be fooled by the narrow storefront — the shop reaches far into the interior space, and is big enough to be anchored by a dedicated children’s area. Like its sister store, it also hosts events featuring an impressive lineup of writers, including such recent guests as Karl Ove Knausgaard, Maggie Nelson, Aleksandar Hemon and Molly Antopol. Afterward, stroll down the street and into Urban Bazaar to browse fair-trade and quirky, locally made gifts — belts made from old bike tires, screen-printed owl tea towels — and admire the boutique’s charming little air plant and succulent nursery.

最早的青蘋果書店(Green Apple Books)於1967年開業，是一家文學書店。現在又有了一家“在公園的青蘋果書店”(Green Apple Books on the Park)，很適合早上去逛逛。書店位於內日落區(Inner Sunset)的第九大道，金門公園(Golden Gate Park)的南邊。別看它門面小——內部空間卻十分寬敞，甚至還開闢出了一塊固定的兒童專用區。和它的姐妹店一樣，這裏也會舉辦一些有名作家參與的活動，最近來過的有卡爾·奧韋·諾斯加德(Karl Ove Knausgaard)、麥琪·尼爾遜(Maggie Nelson)、亞歷山大·埃蒙(Aleksandar Hemon)，以及莫莉·安託波爾(Molly Antopol)。從書店出來，沿第九大道向前走，去Urban Bazaar雜貨店逛逛。這是一家以公平貿易爲主的商店，出售千奇百怪的本地手工藝品——用舊自行車輪胎做的腰帶、絲網印刷的貓頭鷹茶巾——還能欣賞到商店裏迷人的空氣綠植和多肉植物。

11. Seasonal Tastes | 11:30 a.m.

11.時令美餐：上午11:30

For a leisurely brunch, head to the sun-warmed back patio of Nopalito, a branch of Divisadero’s beloved Nopa, for brightly flavored, vibrant Mexican: squash-blossom quesadilla, pork-shoulder pozole, and peach, avocado and lettuce salad with pumpkin seeds and cotija cheese (brunch for two about $45). Or for on-the-go noshing, stop at the worker-owned-and--run Arizmendi Bakery for the excellent daily pizza: always vegetarian, always changing, always available by the slice ($2.50, and it comes with a little bonus sliver) or pie.

要想吃個悠閒的午餐，就去Nopalito餐廳那充滿陽光的後院。這是那家深受歡迎的餐廳——位於Divisadero街的Nopa的分店，主打風味明快、充滿活力的墨西哥菜：萵瓜花炸玉米粉餅、豬肩玉米粒肉湯，以及混合了桃、牛油果、生菜的沙拉配南瓜籽和科提加芝士（二人早午餐的價格大約是45美元）。如果只想隨便吃點，就去工人自營的Arizmendi麪包房買美味的當日披薩：全素食，種類經常變化，可以整張買，也可以按片買（每片2.5美元，還會額外給一小塊）。

12. In Residence | 1 p.m.

12.駐場藝術家：下午1:00

Every month, the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park invites a new artist-in-residence to install art and work with the public during set hours at the museum’s Kimball Education Gallery (free, 1 to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday, plus Friday evenings until 8:45 p.m.). Recent artists have included Shawn Feeney, an artist and musician whose “Musical Anatomy” series featured an inventive tuning-fork helmet that visitors could wear — while he was playing it. In October, the San Francisco artist Carlo Abruzzese transformed census data into meticulous architectural paintings.

每個月，金門公園內的笛洋美術館(de Young Museum)都會邀請一位新的駐場藝術家，在固定時間段於美術館的金伯爾教育畫廊(Kimball Education Gallery)和公衆一起安裝藝術作品（免費，星期三到星期日下午1點到5點，星期五下午1點到晚上8點45分）。近期入駐過的藝術家包括肖恩·菲尼(Shawn Feeney)，這位藝術家兼音樂家的“音樂解剖學”(“Musical Anatomy”)系列作品中有一個創意十足的“音叉頭盔”——參觀者可以佩戴，同時他會用頭盔來演奏。十月，舊金山藝術家卡羅·阿布魯澤斯(Carlo Abruzzese)把人口普查數據變成了一系列嚴謹細緻的建築繪畫。

Lodging

住宿

Stay at the playful, tech-savvy Hotel Zetta (55 Fifth Street; ; from $163.20), well situated downtown in SoMa and near the Powell Street BART station; it’s Viceroy Hotels’ first San Francisco property and home to the Cavalier, a modern British-style gastro pub by the local restaurateur-chef team Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio.

可以選擇有趣而精通科技的澤塔酒店(Hotel Zetta)（第5街55號；；每晚起價163.2美元）。酒店位置極佳，在市中心的市場街南區(SoMa)，附近就是鮑威爾街(Powell Street)的BART車站；該酒店是總督酒店集團(Viceroy Hotels)旗下在舊金山的首個物業，主打“騎士精神”，裏面有一家現代風格的英式餐吧，由本地主廚團隊安娜·溫伯格(Anna Weinberg)和詹妮弗·普奇奧(Jennifer Puccio)主理。

Or try the Buchanan (1800 Sutter Street; ; from $140), the latest revamp from Kimpton Hotels, with 131 minimalist, Japanese-influenced rooms close to Pacific Heights and Japantown.

或者試試布坎南(Buchanan)（沙特街[Sutter Street]1800號；；每晚起價140美元），這是金普頓酒店集團(Kimpton Hotels)最新改建的酒店，有131間極簡風格的日式房間，離太平洋高地(Pacific Heights)和日本城(Japantown)很近。