36小時玩轉音樂之城納什維爾

Country music is alive and well in Nashville; you might even see a young family in broad daylight practicing their line dancing on the sidewalk outside a bar downtown — all in cowboy boots, including the toddler who just learned to walk. But these days, there’s much more to the Tennessee capital than country. One of seven cities chosen to begin Google for Entrepreneurs Tech Hub Network, Nashville is bustling with new business. The dynamic food scene draws an international clientele and chefs from bigger cities. There’s money to preserve historic buildings and revitalize neighborhoods, like Germantown, which was established by European immigrants in the 1850s. Add a farmers’ market, some enticing shops and a batch of very stylish hotel rooms, and it’s hard not to conclude that the city is changing its tune — or at least adding a few new riffs.

在納什維爾，鄉村音樂依然長盛不衰，你甚至可以在繁華的街頭某個酒吧門外的人行道上，看到一個年輕的家庭大白天在演練排舞。他們個個都穿着牛仔靴，連剛學會走路的幼童也不例外。然而近幾年來，田納西州的首府納什維爾並不僅僅意味着鄉村音樂。納什維爾是谷歌公司精選的企業家技術中樞網絡七大城市之一，熙熙攘攘，洋溢着新興商業的魅力。活力四射的美食風景線吸引了國際客戶與許多名廚從更大的城市來到這裏。該市投入大量資金保留了那些歷史建築，令其重新煥發社區的活力，比如歐洲移民在19世紀50年代建造的德國城，還新建了一座農貿市場、許多迷人的店鋪和一批極爲時尚的酒店房間，人們很難不承認，這座城市的基調正悄然改變，或者說，至少增添了若干新樂章。

FRIDAY
週五
1. Welcome Aboard | 4 p.m.
1. 歡迎參觀|下午4點
The Music City Center, the new $598-million convention center with the curvy roof and guitar-shaped ballroom, gets all the attention as a totem of Nashville’s bright future, but Union Station is an anchor to the past. Built in 1900, and all but abandoned by 1979, the stately Gothic railway terminal was spared demolition by a group of Nashville investors. Today, limestone fireplaces, oak doors and panels, and a 65-foot vaulted ceiling marked by golden yellow stained glass distinguish the building, now a hotel, that sits on a hill, just south of the Capitol and a stone’s throw from the live music downtown. Both buildings are open to the public; for a free tour of the mammoth convention center, reserve online well in advance.

音樂城市中心是一座投資5.98億美元新建的會議中心，有着曼妙的曲線屋頂和吉他造型的舞廳。作爲納什維爾燦爛未來的圖騰，它得到了所有人的關注，而城市內的另一個地方——聯合車站，卻是通向過去的鐵錨。它建造於20世紀，在1979年卻差點被棄置。這座莊嚴的哥特式火車站能倖免於拆除，要歸功於納什維爾的一羣投資人。而今，它石灰岩的壁爐、橡木門和嵌板以及鑲嵌金色玻璃的65英尺高的穹頂天花板，勾勒出了這座建築與衆不同的模樣，現在，它成了一座酒店，坐落在田納西州議會大廈南面的山上，距離市中心的現場音樂表演只有一石之遙。兩座建築都向公衆開放。若打算在巨大的會議中心免費遊覽，需要提前網上預約。

2. Grand Ole Evening | 6:30 p.m.
2. 華麗的懷舊之夜|傍晚6點半
The sexy, bourbon-centric bar on the ground floor of Husk — a luminary in the new constellation of ambitious restaurants and a sister to the original in Charleston, S.C. — is a good place to alight for a drink (cocktails start at $9) and snack to start the evening. If they’re on the menu, order the Rappahannock oysters, with green garlic butter, bottarga and preserved lemon ($14), which are served warm and will sate you through a show at the Ryman. The storied auditorium, built in 1892, before the advent of microphones, sells daytime tours, but to get the full effect of the exceptional acoustics, go at night, when a full range of musicians, as disparate as the local hero Vince Gill and the English misanthrope Morrissey, have taken the stage. (Ticket prices vary.)

性感的波旁王朝主題酒吧哈斯克(Husk)位於哈斯克飯店一層。該飯店是雄心勃勃的新餐廳羣落中一座奪目的建築，也是南卡羅萊納州查爾斯頓酒店哈斯克飯店的姐妹店。在這個好地方適合喝杯酒（雞尾酒9美元起），吃點零食，開始一個美好的夜晚。拿來菜單，點一份拉帕漢諾克牡蠣，配上綠色的蒜泥奶酪、醃金槍魚卵和醃檸檬（14美元），上桌時依然熱氣騰騰，你可以一邊大快朵頤，一邊在萊曼禮堂看完整場表演。這座多層的禮堂建造於1892年，當時麥克風還沒問世。雖然有白日遊項目，但若想感受更絕妙的音效，最好乘夜遊覽。晚上有許多音樂家上臺表演，風格各異，比如本地精英文斯·吉爾(Vince Gill)和英國的厭世家莫里西(Morrissey)。（不同的演出票價差異很大。）

3. Nashville on Hudson | 9 p.m.
3. 哈德遜河上的納什維爾|晚上9點
Called Nashvegas for its glitzy glamour, the city could just as easily be called the sixth borough of New York. It is filled with Manhattan refugees, while lots of creative companies are setting up shop here as a cheaper, nicer alternative. And in the gentrifying Germantown section, there’s Rolf and Daughters, which might have been plucked from Dumbo and inserted into its century-old brick warehouse — except for the Southern charm: an unflappable bartender, a waitress with great food knowledge yet no pretense, and a kitchen that turns out what it calls “modern peasant food” but is, in fact, deft and sophisticated. Recent menu items include a starter of beets with cashew butter and aleppo pepper ($13) and a surprisingly light squid-ink pasta with shrimp and pancetta ($17).

納什維爾因其璀璨的光華，被稱爲“納什維加斯”(Nashvegas)，也毫無懸念地號稱紐約的第六個區。這裏到處是曼哈頓流民，許多創意公司建起了店鋪，成爲廉價而優質的替代之選。在日漸高雅的德國城一帶，有一家“羅爾夫和女兒們餐廳”(Rolf and Daughters)。它從紐約的東博街區抽身而來，紮根到今日這座有百年曆史的磚石倉庫裏，卻依然保留着南國的風韻：侍應生從容不迫，女招待對食品知識瞭如指掌，卻又毫不矯情，廚房出品的是“現代農家菜”，事實上卻嫺熟而練達。最新的菜單中有道開胃菜是輔以腰果黃油和阿勒波辣椒的甜菜（13美元），還有令人驚訝的淡魷魚色意麪，含蝦和燻肉（17美元）。

4. Neon Lights | 11 p.m.
4. 燦爛霓虹|深夜11點
The honky-tonks on and around Broadway are classic, just as corny and twangy, loud and boozy as you’d hoped they’d be. Many charge no cover, but drinking is encouraged. You can do a little planning and check in advance, or you can just squeeze into Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge to see who’s standing and singing on the bar, or hit Robert’s Western World for some traditional country heartbreak or, darlin’, set right down anywhere in between. It’ll be all right.

百老匯附近的小酒館十分經典，粗野，喧囂，噪音迴盪，醉意朦朧，正合你的期待。許多費用是不含在內的，但人們總會鼓勵你多喝酒。可以稍作計劃，提前在網上查閱信息，或者擠進“淑女的蘭亭”(Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge)沙龍，看看站在舞臺上唱歌的是誰，或者去“羅伯特的西部世界”(Robert’s Western World)賞鑑傳統的鄉村傷心戀歌，或者，親愛的你可以在兩者之間任何一個地方落腳。都挺好的。

SATURDAY
週六
5. Local Flavor | 10 a.m.
5. 本土風味|上午10點
Barista Parlor opened in May 2012 in a converted auto-repair garage behind a dusty old store called Rainbow Fashions in increasingly hip East Nashville. It is a highly stylized coffee house where they spin vinyl, decorate with Edison bulbs and old motorcycles, use blue bandannas as napkins and do not serve decaf. It’s a communal place — a kid with a “Franny and Zooey” paperback in the pocket of his low-slung jeans might take a stool by a willowy woman in a big sweater editing footage on her MacBook Air — that is serious about local ingredients. The sausage in a crumbly buttermilk biscuit is from Porter Road Butcher next door; the baristas’ canvas aprons with leather straps are from the workshop of the leather goods company Emil Erwin, across the river in Marathon Village; and the Olive and Sinclair chocolate in this morning’s scone? Stone ground in Nashville. (Breakfast for two, about $25.) With the Black Keys frontman Dan Auerbach, who lives and operates a recording studio in Music City, Barista Parlor has just opened a second place on Magazine Street in the Gulch neighborhood.

咖啡師沙龍(Barista Parlor)於2012年5月開張，由昔日的汽修廠車庫改建而成。它位於日益新潮的東納什維爾一座蒙塵的老店“彩虹時尚”(Rainbow Fashions)後面。這是一座相當有型的咖啡屋，店內播放着黑膠唱片，裝飾着愛迪生燈泡和陳舊的摩托車，用藍色班丹納扎染手帕當餐巾，不供應脫因咖啡。該店堪稱共有之地：一個穿着低腰牛仔褲的小孩坐在凳子上，口袋裏塞着《弗蘭妮與祖伊》(Franny and Zooey)平裝書，身旁婀娜的女子穿着寬大的毛衣，正在蘋果筆記本上剪輯影片。店家還格外注重精選本地材料，酥脆的脫脂乳餅乾裏的香腸來自隔壁的波特路肉鋪(Porter Road Butcher)；咖啡師的皮束帶帆布圍裙來自河對面馬拉松村埃米爾厄爾文(Emil Erwin)皮革製品公司的車間；早餐司康餅中的橄欖與辛克萊巧克力呢？是納什維爾的石磨作品（二人早餐大約25美元）。黑鍵樂隊(Black Keys)的核心人物丹·奧爾巴克(Dan Auerbach)就安居於此，並在音樂城市中開了一家錄音工作室，咖啡師沙龍最近也在高爾奇街區的雜誌街新開了一家分店。

6. Food Trucks and Stuff | Noon
6. 美食與美食車|正午
Poke around the rapidly changing east side, and you’ll find a district reinventing itself. The Craftsman-style bungalows, circa 1920s, that make up sleepy little residential pockets vary from student flophouse to renovated dream house. Creative types mill around I Dream of Weenie, a hot-dog stand fashioned out of an old Volkswagen bus. All the imaginative dogs cost less than $4.75. In the Shoppes on Fatherland, there’s Moxie, a furniture store opened by a former set designer where you might find the perfect Lucite ice bucket, and Jones Fly Co., where a fly-fisherman hand ties his feathery designs on a raw wood workbench. Before dropping from shopping, repair for a nouveau comfort-food lunch at the Silly Goose (red chile couscous with grilled chicken is $9.50), or if the wait’s too long, head to Mas Tacos Por Favor, the groovy former food truck that’s serving fried avocado from a fixed address now. Tacos are $3; cash only.

在日新月異的城市東部信步走來，你會發現一個街區正在重塑自我。一排排工匠風格的平房或可追溯到20世紀20年代，構成了一片倦意朦朧的小型居住區，從廉價學生客棧到翻新夢工廠，用途各異。“我夢見了維尼”(I Dream of Weenie)是一家由舊大衆巴士改建而成的熱狗店，奇趣十足。所有奇幻的狗狗都不超過4.75美元。在店鋪林立的祖國大街上有一家默克西傢俱店(Moxie)，店主曾是佈景師，你會在這裏見到完美的樹脂冰桶。還有瓊斯弗萊公司(Jones Fly Co.)，一名假蠅釣魚人正將自己柔軟的設計作品系在原木工作臺上。購物結束之前，可先去呆頭鵝(Silly Goose)餐廳吃一頓新式的美味午餐（紅辣椒炒粗麥粉配烤雞肉，9.50美元）。如果你不想等待太久，可以去風味玉米卷(Mas Tacos Por Favor)餐廳，這妙不可言的美食卡車上供應炸鱷梨，食材來自某個固定地點。墨西哥玉米卷3美元一個，只收現金。

7. A New Frontier | 3 p.m.
7. 新前沿|下午3點
In hilly Sevier Park, picnickers in fashion-sweats settle in for the afternoon, while stroller-pushing mothers amble shoulder to shoulder, and plaid-and-denim-clad men throw balls for their rescue dogs. Here’s a chance to walk among the locals who staked a claim to the 12 South neighborhood well before the current boom. A pioneer on 12th Avenue South, Imogene + Willie, opened in 2009 in an old gas station selling meticulously made jeans and has grown into a cool emporium with a branch in Portland, Ore. The avenue is now lined with independent businesses like Savant Vintage (packed to the gills with frocks, clutches, tumblers, and the like), Las Paletas unusually flavored ice pops ($2.50), Holly Williams’s nouveau general store White’s Mercantile, and Judith Bright, a jeweler that recently moved from Green Hills, where Ann Patchett opened Parnassus Books, drawing a crowd that’s equal parts Berkeley and Bridgehampton.

在崎嶇的塞維爾公園(Sevier Park)，身穿時尚運動服的遊客選好了地點，開始準備下午的野餐，推着嬰兒車的母親在並肩漫步，身穿格子花呢與丹寧衣褲的男子帶狗玩着拋接球遊戲。這是在本地人羣中穿行的好機會。很久之前本地還不繁榮的時候，他們就在南部12個街區安居樂業了。南12大道上的潮流先鋒是“伊莫金和威利”(Imogene + Willie)牛仔店。2009年，它在一座昔日的加油站內開業，出售精製牛仔服，現在已經成長爲一座炫酷的商場，在俄勒岡州波特蘭市也開了分店。這條大街現在林立着不少獨立的商鋪，如莎凡特經典（Savant Vintage，塞滿了女裝、手抓包、高腳杯等物品）、口感絕佳的拉斯帕勒塔斯(Las Paletas)冰棍（2.50美元）及霍利·威廉姆斯(Holly Williams)開的“懷特家”(White’s Mercantile)紀念品店。最近珠寶商朱迪·布萊特(Judith Bright)也將店鋪從綠山遷到此地，而作家安·帕切特(Ann Patchett)在那裏開了帕納塞斯山書店(Parnassus Books)，吸引的顧客人數可與伯克利和布里奇漢普頓匹敵。

8. An All-Purpose Block | 7 p.m.
8. 全功能街區|晚上7點
In the Gulch, the 404 Kitchen has fewer than 60 seats in a retrofitted shipping container, but has made a big impression. One recent evening, the chef Matt Bolus chatted with Eric Close, who plays mayor Teddy Conrad on ABC-TV’s “Nashville,” while his kitchen wove Southern ingredients throughout the confident menu. (Dinner for two around $100, not including drinks.) With the restaurant; its sister hotel, a 10-room hideaway that opened in March; and the city’s temple of bluegrass, the Station Inn ($12 to $15 cover charge) next door, you’d never need to leave the block.

高爾奇一帶的404餐廳(404 Kitchen)由集裝箱翻新而成，餐位不到60個，卻令人難忘。最近的一天晚上，該店的主廚馬特·波拉斯(Matt Bolus)與ABC臺的電視劇《音樂之鄉納什維爾》(Nashville)飾演泰迪·康拉德(Teddy Conrad)市長的演員埃裏克·柯樓思(Eric Close)見面相談甚歡。這家餐廳的菜單信心十足，南方食材貫穿始終。（二人餐大約100美元，不含酒水。）它的姊妹酒店3月份開張，有10個客房。隔壁是一座藍色玻璃寺廟——“車站旅館”（Station Inn；服務費12至15美元）。有了這幾個店，你根本不用離開這個街區。

9. Into the Wee Hours | 11 p.m.
9. 夜色沉沉|深夜11點
Venture anyway for a nightcap at the Patterson House, if you fancy a little book-lined speakeasy with barmen in period costume who take their time with the ice balls and ginger syrup. Cocktails, about $12.

如果你喜歡擺滿書本的簡易酒吧，可以到帕特遜酒屋(Patterson House)喝一杯睡前酒。這裏的侍應生穿着特定時代的服裝，願意用心調製冰激凌球與薑糖漿。雞尾酒大約12美元。

SUNDAY
週日
10. That Old-Timey Music | 9:30 a.m.
10. 懷舊音樂|上午9點半
You don’t have to care a lick about the earliest days of the Grand Ole Opry to be enthralled with the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum ($22). Get an eight-ounce soy latte ($4.43) at the Bongo Java by the entrance of the splashy new Omni Hotel, stop into the Hatch Show Print gallery and the store where the old printing presses that made many iconic concert posters now live — all in the corridor that attaches the hotel to the museum as part of its ongoing integration into the Music City Center complex. Go early, before the crowds descend.

用不着去了解大奧普里(Grand Ole Opry)劇場的早期歲月，你也能在鄉村音樂名人堂及博物館（Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum，門票22美元）流連忘返。在嶄新炫目的歐姆尼酒店(Omni Hotel)門口的手鼓咖啡館(Bongo Java)喝一杯8盎司的豆漿拿鐵（4.43美元），還可以踱進漢琦秀印刷(Hatch Show Print)畫廊及商店。館內那些古老的印刷機曾創造出許多標誌性的演出海報，而今依然風行於世，都貼在走廊裏，而這座走廊將歐姆尼酒店與博物館連接起來，融入了日漸擴張的音樂城市中心建築羣。要去就早點兒去，以免遊客太多。

11. Silence Your Cellphone | Noon
11. 手機調成靜音|正午
Brunch at Marche Artisan Foods, which is just down the hill from the Turnip Truck organic market and the nicely stocked Woodland Wine Merchant, is easy and casual and languorous — spindly chairs, heavy curtains pulled back from the street-front windows, pastries under glass, natives in no hurry at all. (Expect to pay $30 for two.) Use of mobile devices is forbidden in the dining room.

去馬凱工匠餐廳(Marche Artisan Foods)享用早午餐吧！它位於從鬱金香卡車(Turnip Truck)有機食品市場和伍德蘭酒鋪(Woodland Wine Merchant)下山的路上，氣氛輕鬆、閒適、慵懶。纖秀的座椅，罩在玻璃櫃中的甜點，悠然自得的本地人，臨街的窗戶拉開了沉甸甸的窗簾（做好心理準備，二人餐30美元）。餐廳禁止使用移動設備。

THE DETAILS
實用信息
1. Music City Center; . Union Station;.
1. 音樂城市中心；. 聯合車站，.
2. Husk Restaurant, 37 Rutledge Street; . Ryman Auditorium, 116 Fifth Avenue North; .

2. 哈斯克餐廳，37 Rutledge Street; . 萊曼禮堂，116 Fifth Avenue North; .
3. Rolf and Daughters, 700 Taylor Street; .
3. 羅爾夫和女兒們餐廳，700 Taylor Street; .

4. Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, 422 Broadway; . Robert’s Western World, 416 Broadway; .
4. 淑女的蘭亭，422 Broadway; .羅伯特的西部世界, 416 Broadway; .
5. Barista Parlor, 519B Gallatin Avenue; .

5. 咖啡師沙龍，519B Gallatin Avenue; .

6. I Dream of Weenie, 113 South 11th Street. The Shoppes on Fatherland, 1006 Fatherland Street. The Silly Goose, 1888 Eastland. Mas Tacos Por Favor, 732 McFerrin.
6. 我夢見了維尼，113 South 11th Street。祖國大街上的店鋪，1006 Fatherland Street。呆頭鵝餐廳，1888 Eastland。 風味玉米餅，732 McFerrin。

7. Sevier Park, 3021 Lealand Lane. Imogene + Willie, 2601 12th Avenue South. Savant Vintage. Las Paletas. White’s Mercantile. Judith Bright. Parnassus Books, 3900 Hillsboro Pike; .

7. 塞維爾公園，3021 Lealand Lane。伊莫金和威利，2601 12th Avenue South。莎凡特經典、拉斯帕特塔斯、懷特家紀念品店、朱迪斯布萊特、帕納塞斯山書店，3900 Hillsboro Pike; .

8. The 404 Kitchen, 404 12th Avenue South; . Station Inn, 402 12th Avenue South; .
8. 404餐廳，404 12th Avenue South; 。車站旅館，402 12th Avenue South; .

9. The Patterson House, 1711 Division Street; .
9. 帕特遜酒屋，1711 Division Street; .

10. The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, 222 Fifth Avenue South;. Bongo Java, 250 Fifth Avenue South. Hatch Show Print Gallery, 224 Fifth Avenue South.

10.鄉村音樂名人堂及博物館，222 Fifth Avenue South; . 手鼓咖啡館，250 Fifth Avenue South。漢琦秀印刷畫廊，224 Fifth Avenue South。
11. Marche Artisan Foods, 1000 Main Street; .
11. 馬凱工匠美食，1000 Main Street; .

Lodging
住宿
The Hermitage Hotel, opened in 1910, is Music City’s answer to the Plaza. It now grows its own cattle and cauliflower on a nearby farm. (From $299; 231 Sixth Avenue North, 615-823-4896; .)

隱居酒店(The Hermitage Hotel)1910年開業，是這座音樂之城對商業廣場的回答。店主在附近的農莊裏養殖了牲畜，種植着花菜（價格299美元起；231 Sixth Avenue North, 615-823-4896; ）。

The Hutton Hotel, a stylish modern alternative with Molton Brown toiletries and the latest issue of American Songwriter in every room. (From $289; 1808 West End Avenue, 615-340-9333; .)
哈登酒店(The Hutton Hotel)是時尚的現代住宿之選，配備有摩頓布朗洗漱用品，每個房間都有最新一期的《美國作曲家》(American Songwriter)雜誌（價格289美元起；1808 West End Avenue, 615-340-9333； ）。