雞年主題奢侈大牌亮瞎眼
The official start of the Year of the Rooster in the Chinese Zodiac begins on January 28th, and the fashion industry has been paying homage in a big way.
2017年1月28日，中國將正式迎來農曆雞年的新年。而時尚界已經開始大規模向雞年致意。Given it's the most lucrative time of year for designer brands to target Chinese consumers – one of the most significant forces in global luxury consumption - a surge in zodiac-themed items can be seen everywhere but, they’re facing immense criticism.
這是一年中時尚大牌瞄準中國消費者的最賺錢的時機，因此新出現的生肖主題商品隨處可見，但它們也面臨諸多批評之聲。中國消費者是全球奢侈品消費中一股最顯著的力量。Cashing in on the demand for holiday gifts, these brands are thrusting cultural references upon wealthy Chinese shoppers. However, many of the country’s millennials consider them outdated.
這些品牌投資於節日禮物的市場需求，對富裕的中國購物者強力推出各種文化產品。然而中國很多千禧一代認爲這些產品很過時。
Instead of overused elements like red, yellow, phoenix’s and the seasonal rooster; this new market are seeking more authentic and modern representations of Chinese culture.
這一新市場正追求對中國文化更真實、更現代的表達，而不是過度使用紅色、黃色、鳳凰圖案、以及應季的公雞圖案。Take Victoria Secret’s eponymous fashion show for instance which might we add, included a total of four Chinese models for the first time ever in its squad of heavenly Angels.
以維密時裝秀爲例，最新一次的維密時裝秀首次請到四位中國模特擔任維密天使。The lingerie brand decided to send dragon-decorated supermodels down the runway – think Adirana Lima’s yellow stiletto boots or Kendall Jenner carrying blue phoenix wings on her back – and it quickly became the subject of online criticism.
這家內衣品牌決定把身穿龍形圖案服裝的模特派上Ｔ臺，龍形圖案出現在阿德瑞娜?利瑪的黃色細高跟靴子上，肯達爾?詹娜則背上了藍色的鳳凰翅膀。這很快招致網絡上的批評。“Even the world’s most beautiful bodies are not going to save these rustic and passe Chinese-themed outfits,” wrote a Chinese web user on Sina Weibo, the country’s equivalent of Twitter.
一位中國網友在新浪微博上寫道：“即使是最美麗的模特也無法拯救這些土氣過時的中國風服裝”。From Dior’s rooster bracelet to Calvin Klein’s red and gold unmentionables, luxury retailers’ New Year-themed products are leaving Chinese consumers disgruntled.
從迪奧的公雞手鍊到CK的金紅色內衣，奢侈品銷售商的新年主題產品令中國消費者不滿。Talking of MCM’s rooster-embroidered bag, one person commented, “red, gold, and zodiac signs are symbols of Chinese New Year, but why do they believe we want to carry a bag with a zodiac animal all year round?”
在談到MCM的公雞繡花手袋時，有人這樣評論說：“紅色、金色和生肖圖案是中國新年的象徵，但他們爲什麼覺得我們想一年都拎着一個帶有生肖圖案的包包”？Other offerings include cosmetics giant Estee Lauder which has designed a golden rooster on its limited edition powder compact, while Dolce & Gabbana is offering up a five sequined Rooster bomber jacket for a mere ￡1450.
化妝品巨頭雅詩蘭黛推出限量版粉餅，盒子上設計了一個金色公雞的圖案。杜嘉班納推出一款短夾克，上面有五隻有金屬片裝飾的公雞，售價僅爲1450英鎊。Sure, the Chinese market is becoming increasingly more sophisticated but, the ability for these brands to seamlessly and elegantly integrate authentic Chinese elements into their designs is another factor to consider.
當然，中國市場正變得越來越複雜，但這些大牌完美優雅地將真正的中國元素融入設計的能力是另外一個要考慮的因素。For some, it just doesn’t add up and consumers are refusing to invest in products that aren’t consistent with the brands aesthetic. One prime example is Longchamp’s handbag which features a red and gold embroidered rooster. It’s off brand and out of taste.
對一些人來說，這並不會加分，消費者拒絕購買與品牌審美風格不同的產品。一個著名的例子是龍驤的手袋，上面有隻金紅色的繡花公雞。這和品牌風格相去甚遠，非常沒品。The style of young Chinese fashionistas has evidently evolved and, while luxury retailers will continue to cash in on this special occasion, they can’t ignore the social media backlash that many of these products have faced.
年輕的中國時尚達人們的風格顯然在不斷變化。儘管奢侈品經銷商將繼續借機發財，他們仍不能忽視很多商品面對的社交媒體抨擊。
