國際奢侈品牌保值能力紅黑榜

There’s a reason they call them “investment pieces.” At $22,000 for a Proenza Schouler tote or $9,000 for aRalph Lauren dress, luxury goods are meant to last a lifetime and hold their value. That’s why the market for used designer goods is the most attractive category for online consignment.

奢侈品被稱爲“投資品”自然有其理由。不論是22,000美元一件的普羅恩薩o施羅（Proenza Schouler）手提包，還是9,000美元一件的拉夫o勞倫（Ralph Lauren）裙子，奢侈品的本意是終生保值。因此，二手的設計師商品成了最具有吸引力的在線寄售商品類別。

One such marketplace, a website called The RealReal, is on track to do $100 million in sales this year. (The company takes a cut of each sale.) The RealReal recently tapped its database of 500,000 luxury goods from 500 designer brands to find which brands have the highest resale value, and which ones hold their value the longest. The startup found that Chanel, Christian Louboutin, and Hermès hold their value the longest. Tod’s and Versace lose their value the fastest.

一家叫做The RealReal的網站今年的銷售額將達到1億美元。（這家公司從每筆銷售中抽成。）最近，這個網站對來自500個設計師品牌的500,000件奢侈品進行了研究，希望找出轉售價值最高的品牌和保值時間最長的品牌。這家初創公司發現，香奈兒(Chanel)、克里斯提o魯布托（Christian Louboutin）和愛馬仕（Hermès）保值時間最長。託德斯（Tod’s）與範思哲（Versace）則貶值最快。

Perhaps more surprising is which brands carry the highest and lowest resale value. Items from Givenchy, Victoria Beckham, Charlotte Olympia and Alexander McQueen all sell for much closer to their original price than goods from Marni, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Philip Lim, and Marc Jacobs.

而更令人意外的，或許是轉售價值最高和最低的品牌。相比瑪尼（Marni）、亞歷山大o王（Alexander Wang）、菲利林3.1（3.1 Philip Lim）和馬克o雅各布（Marc Jacobs）等品牌，紀梵希（Givenchy）、維多利亞o貝克漢姆（Victoria Beckham）、夏洛特o奧林匹亞（Charlotte Olympia）和亞歷山大o麥昆（Alexander McQueen）等品牌奢侈品的轉售價格更接近原價。

Resale values of fashion or luxury goods can fluctuate depending on buzz around a certain designer, particularly if a fashion houses hires a a new creative director or chief executive, according to Rati Levesque, Chief Merchant at The RealReal. “When Phoebe Philo joined Céline as the creative director, it added more resale value to the brand,” she says.

The RealReal首席商務官拉蒂o萊維斯克表示，服裝或奢侈品的轉售價值會因爲與設計師有關的傳聞而出現波動，尤其是時裝公司聘用新的創意總監或首席執行官的情況下。她道：“菲比o菲絡加入賽琳（Céline）擔任創意總監就提高了這個品牌的轉售價值。”

But more important than buzz is availability and discounting. If a luxury brand frequently discounts its goods at outlet stores or online via flash sales, consumers will perceive that they don’t have to pay full price for that brand, says Milton Pedraza, CEO of Luxury Institute, a luxury industry research group. While baby boomer shoppers tend to research something online and then buy it in the store, millennials do it the other way around. They “showroom,” the term for checking out an item in the store before finding the best deal for it online.

但比設計師的流動更重要的是奢飾品的可獲得性與折扣。據奢侈品行業調研機構奢侈品協會（Luxury Institute）CEO米爾頓o佩德瑞扎表示，如果一個奢侈品牌經常在名品折扣店或通過限時搶購的方式在線打折出售，消費者會認爲，他們就沒有必要全價購買這個品牌的商品。嬰兒潮一代會在線搜索某件商品，然後到店鋪中購買，但千禧一代的做法卻截然相反。他們會事先到店鋪中查看一款商品，然後在網上以最划算的價格購買。

“These days you can find ways to arbitrage the brands, because you have so much information and the market is inefficient,” Pedraza says. “Brands have to be careful where they allow their product to be sold.”

佩德瑞扎說：“如今，消費者可以通過各種方式，利用奢侈品進行套利交易。因爲消費者可以得到海量的信息，而市場卻效率低下。所以，奢侈品牌要決定允許哪些渠道銷售自己的商品時，必須慎重。”

For example: Chanel and Hermès do not hold sales in their stores and they have a limited number of outlet stores. Chanel doesn’t even sell its goods online, with the exception of beauty products. “In that sense, it creates a perception of purity,” Pedraza says.” The brands then “back it up with design quality and heritage,” he says. “If I buy something, I will think, ‘Wow it has long term investment value.’”

舉例來說：香奈兒和愛馬仕從來不在店鋪中舉行特價活動，而且名品折扣店的數量也極其有限。除了化妝品，香奈兒甚至從來不在網上出售自己的商品。佩德瑞扎說：“這在某種意義上給人一種純粹的感覺。”他說：“再加上這些品牌的設計品質和底蘊，如果我購買一件這些品牌的奢侈品，我會想：‘哇哦，它肯定具備長期的投資價值。’”

Below are some luxury brands that fall on both sides of the spectrum.

下面是調查結果中排在首尾的部分奢侈品牌。（財富中文網）

Brands that hold their value the best (and longest)

保值價值最高（且最長久）的品牌

Chanel, Louis Vuitton (pictured), Hermès, Christian Louboutin, Cartier, David Yurman, Alaia, Van Cleef & Arpels, Goyard.

香奈兒，路易威登，愛馬仕，克里斯提o魯布托，卡地亞，大衛o雅曼，Alaia，梵克雅寶，戈雅

Brands that lose value the fastest

貶值最快的品牌

Valextra, Tod’s, Versace (pictured), Etro.

Valextra，託德斯，範思哲，艾特羅

Brands with surprisingly high resale value

具有極高轉售價值的品牌

Givenchy, Victoria Beckham, Charlotte Olympia, Alexander McQueen (pictured).

紀梵希，維多利亞·貝克漢姆，夏洛特·奧林匹亞，亞歷山大·麥昆

Brands with surprisingly low resale value

轉售價值極低的品牌

Marni, Alexander Wang, 3.1 Philip Lim, Marc Jacobs(pictured).

瑪尼，亞歷山大·王，菲利林3.1，馬克·雅各布