美容化妝:東西方女性的化妝不一樣

As the cosmetics world goes global, how will it affect individual nations' ideas of beauty? Now that anyone with internet access can check out the latest catwalk trends and advertising campaigns in international fashion magazines, will make-up trends become homogenised? Will a Mad Men-inspired red lip catch on in China, as it has in New York and London? Will women from Mumbai turn their backs on Bollywood glamour in favour of "the new nude"? Here, industry insiders from major cities around the world report from the front lines of beauty today.

風靡全球的美容業，對世界各國的美容概念有何影響？如今網絡上隨處可以看到的最新時尚資訊，以及時裝雜誌上激烈的廣告競爭，會讓美容趨勢變得越來越單一嗎？靈感來自《廣告狂人》的口紅在中國是否也跟在紐約和倫敦一樣受歡迎？孟買的女性們是否又會從寶萊塢範兒轉投"裸色主義"的懷抱？現在，世界各大主要城市的業內人士爲大家帶來美容界的最新播報。

London

倫敦

"Catwalk trends take time to trickle down, but when key celebrities wear a look, it can have an instant influence," says make-up artist Cassie Lomas – and the celebrity does not have to be UK-based. "The statement lips we saw on Angelina Jolie at the Oscars is a trend that London girls are sporting," says Lomas, who credits the Kate Middleton effect as well: when the Duchess of Cambridge wore a particular Bourjois nail polish (Rose Lounge), sales soared. "It is still their bestseller," says Lomas, who is also a consultant for the brand. But the influence of New York shouldn't be underestimated, says Nicky Kinnaird, founder of Space NK. "You can't get away without having a manicure and tidy nails any more, and that's the influence of the US."

"T臺上的時尚風潮流行起來需要時間，而一旦名人們有個什麼新妝容，則能取得立竿見影的效果。"彩妝藝術家卡西•洛馬斯（Cassie Lomas）說，並且這些名人不一定非要是英國本土的。"我們在奧斯卡紅毯上看到的安吉麗娜•朱莉用的口紅，倫敦的女孩兒們也塗得正歡。"洛馬斯說，他同樣也認同凱特•米德爾頓（Kate Middleton）效應：當這位劍橋公爵夫人（Duchess of Cambridge）塗了一款別緻的Bourjois指甲油(Rose Lounge)，賣場裏立馬賣到脫銷。"這款指甲油仍舊是該品牌最暢銷的。"洛馬斯說，他同時兼任這家品牌的顧問。而來自紐約的影響也不應該被忽視，Space NK的創辦人尼基•金納德（Nicky Kinnaird）說："如果沒修剪好指甲，你是絕對不會出門的，這正是受了美國的影響。"

Paris

巴黎

"Parisians do not in any way follow fashion trends that come from the shows – they have their thing and stick to it," says Lloyd Simmonds, creative director of make-up at Yves Saint Laurent. French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt is a likely influence on French women, says make-up artist Lisa Eldridge: "She has that typically French, easy, effortless look with the glossy hair, fabulously cut jacket, no make-up except for a bit of bronze – the most I've seen her with is a bit of black smudged pencil."

"巴黎人不太會受秀場的影響——他們有自己的風格並且非常堅持。"Yves Saint Laurent彩妝部的創意總監勞埃德•西蒙斯（Lloyd Simmonds）說。《Vogue》雜誌法國版的編輯艾曼紐•奧特（Emmanuelle Alt）或許就是受了法國女性影響，彩妝藝術家麗莎•艾爾德里奇（Lisa Eldridge）說："她的樣子非常法式、簡單、不費力氣，配上有光澤的頭髮、剪裁極好的外套，除了一點點眼妝之外，根本不化妝——我見到她的大多數時候她都只用了一點點黑色眼影。"

Bright splashes of red, orange and pink lipstick featured heavily at the shows but red is already a Parisian classic. "I have seen a lot of Parisian women wearing bright red and I can see them continuing to wear a lot of bright orange or fuchsia red lips," says Simmonds. YSL's current bestselling lipstick is Rouge Laque: a rich, glossy red stain (£22.50). "The rest is still always very minimal. That's just a very Parisian approach," says Simmonds. "Their mothers teach them how to do it properly," says Eldridge.

醒目的紅色、橘色還有粉色口紅在秀場上層不出窮，但實際上紅色一直都是巴黎人的經典脣色。"我看過許許多多巴黎女人都塗着鮮豔的紅脣，並且我能想見她們會用上更多鮮豔的橘色或者紫紅色。"西蒙斯說。YSL目前最爲暢銷的口紅是Rouge Laque：豐盈亮澤的紅色（售價22.50英鎊）。"庫存非常少。這是非常巴黎式的。"西蒙斯說。"她們從媽媽那裏學到如何將之使用得最爲恰當。"艾爾德里奇說道。

New York

紐約

"In New York City, summer is about ­natural-looking make-up, glowing skin and eye shadows in warm neutrals," says Bobbi Brown, whose summer bestsellers include long-wear make-up, in particular a brilliant dark brown gel eyeliner (£17). Yet the New York make-up artist Kabuki, who is also artistic director of the British cosmetics company My Face, thinks the red lip will catch on. Indeed, a sheer, blood red lipstick stain by Lipstick Queen is Space NK's bestseller. Meanwhile, "Unusual nail colours are bigger than ever," says Kabuki. The bestselling colour at Space NK in New York is The Darkest Emerald (£12) and Hip Pop (a shimmer coral) by British nail company Rococo. "Maybe that is an extension of the now classic navy and dark, vampy colours," says Eldridge, "but I still don't see it working in the average New York office."

"在紐約，夏天便是自然風格的妝容、容光煥發的皮膚還有中性暖色的眼影。"鮑比•布朗（Bobbi Brown）說，他的夏季暢銷款包括長效彩妝，尤其是一款光澤感十足的深棕色眼線膠（售價17英鎊）。不過紐約的彩妝藝術家，同時兼任英國化妝品公司My Face藝術總監的Kabuki卻認爲紅脣即將流行。的確，一款清透醒目的紅色Lipstick Queen紅色口紅成爲了Space NK的熱賣商品。同時，"顏色別緻的指甲油也比以往更受歡迎。"Kabuki說。紐約Space NK裏賣得最好的一款是英國指甲油品牌Rococo的The Darkest Emerald（售價12英鎊）和Hip Pop（發着微光的珊瑚色）。"或許這是目前經典的海軍藍、暗色，還有粉色的一個延伸，"艾爾德里奇說，但是我在紐約的辦公室裏還是很少見到。"

Milan

米蘭

"Milanese women still like all that sexy stuff: you see a lot of blondes – with the lashes, the smoky eye, that Donatella plumped-up nude lip. It's almost Kim Kardashian," says Lisa Eldridge, who adds that the classic Hollywood look is popular too. Photographer and former creative director of British Vogue Robin Derrick points to two distinct beauty looks in Milan: "Miuccia [Prada]-style, minimal yet very well done during the day, and then the less fashiony people, who are, if anything, quite evening in their look: they will wear a cocktail dress for work, with the smoky eyes and beige lips."

"米蘭女人依舊熱愛所有性感的事物——你會看到許許多多尤物——濃密的睫毛、煙燻眼妝，多納泰拉（Donatella，範思哲掌門人）般豐盈的嘴脣，像極了金•卡戴珊 （Kim Kardashian，美國名模）。"麗莎•艾爾德里奇說，她又補充說經典的好萊塢風格也同樣流行。攝影師、《Vogue》雜誌英國版前創意總監魯賓•德里克（Robin Derrick）指出米蘭有兩種典型的女性裝扮："繆西婭•普拉達（Miuccia Prada）風格，簡約但是非常適合日間活動；還有一種就是什麼時候都像是在過晚上：她們會穿着晚禮服去上班，還帶着煙燻的眼妝和褐色的脣妝。"

Sao Paulo

聖保羅

"We end up mixing US and European summer references with our fall/winter," says Victoria Ceridono, beauty editor of Vogue Brazil. "This season a great influencer is the feminine, pastel trend: its delicate and perfect for day. Louis Vuitton and Chanel showed beautiful looks," she says. Indeed, the bestselling MAC cosmetic in Sao Paulo is a pale fuchsia lipstick called Snob (£13.50), which has a waiting list. Yet, it's now winter in Brazil, albeit mild. According to Ceridono: "Deep red and wine lipstick is big – Brazilians are used to wearing bright reds and pinks, so it is a natural evolution for the colder weather." Overseas influence is increasing as more brands move in (Sephora launched last month), but for now MAC lipsticks and Benefit primers are popular foreign brands – and "BB [blemish balm] cream fever is starting to grow," says Ceridono. Brazilian model Gisele is still a reference, as is the model Isabeli Fontana, but a big influences on women's beauty is the Brazilian telenovela, or soap operas, with its glamorous look.

"在我們的秋冬流行裏，已經不再參考混搭歐美夏季潮流了。"《Vogue》雜誌巴西版的美容編輯維多利亞•賽瑞多諾（Victoria Ceridono）說。"這一季最受歡迎的是女性、柔和的風格：非常精緻，適合日間。路易威登（Louis Vuitton）和香奈兒（Chanel）都有着很好的示範。"她說。的確，在聖保羅最暢銷的MAC化妝品是一款名爲Snob的淺櫻紅色口紅（售價13.50英鎊），供不應求。然而，雖然天氣還算暖和，但現在巴西仍然是冬天。按照賽瑞多諾的說法："深紅色和酒紅色的口紅很暢銷——巴西女人之前喜歡塗亮紅色和粉色，因此這也算是天氣轉涼之後的一個自然變化。隨着更多品牌的進入（絲芙蘭就在上個月在巴西開業），海外影響也在增加，但是目前MAC的口紅和Benefit的妝前液是最暢銷的外國品牌商品—— 人們對BB霜的興趣也在漸漸變得狂熱。"賽瑞多諾說。巴西名模吉賽爾（Gisele）和伊莎貝莉•芳塔娜（Isabeli Fontana）是人們模仿的對象，但更能影響女人們的則是那些美豔的電視明星或者肥皂劇演員。

Moscow

莫斯科

"This summer the most popular trends are graphic eyeliner, coral lipstick, wet gloss on eyelids and lips and pastels," says Elena Petrova, beauty and living director of Vogue Russia. "My friends and colleagues tend to follow more or less the same make-up routine from day to day. They pick what looks good on them and are less likely to experiment than women in Europe or the States." Still, she says, "Russians love nail polish, especially in summer ... the brightest and trendiest shades." Maria Taranenko, beauty director of Elle Russia, adds: "They will match the make-up with their look, with nail polish and shoes of the same colour."

"今夏最流行的是醒目的眼線、珊瑚色的口紅、潤澤的眼瞼和嘴脣，柔和的顏色"《Vogue》雜誌俄羅斯版的美容與生活編輯伊蓮娜•佩特洛娃（Elena Petrova）說，"我的朋友們和同事或多或少地會一直追隨同一種化妝風格。她們會挑選那些適合自己的，跟歐美女性相比，她們較少嘗試新事物。"她還講到："俄羅斯人喜歡指甲油，尤其是在夏天……還有最醒目和時髦的墨鏡。"《Elle》雜誌俄羅斯版的美容總監瑪莉亞•塔拉年科（Maria Taranenko）補充說："她們會將妝容、指甲油還有鞋子的顏色搭配起來。"

Mumbai

孟買

"Peach, pink or coral lip stains are popular. Cheek stains and cream blush in bronze, apricot or peach are on trend. And for evening red lips are still big news, with flashes of orange showing up," says Parizaad Khan, beauty editor of Vogue India. "Kohl will always be popular with Indian women, no matter the current season or trend," she says. Little wonder MAC's three bestselling cosmetics are black eyeliners. "We're doing winged liner for evening and a lot of neon and bright pops of colour on fingers and toes," Khan continues. "Bollywood is probably the single largest influencer ... but Indian women are extremely aware of international make-up trends, which trickle down via make-up artists and also hairstylists. I've seen a number of girls with bright coloured panels in their hair, which they may or may not be aware was seen on the spring/summer runway at DSquared," says Khan.

"桃紅色、粉色還有珊瑚色的口紅是很受歡迎的。此外還有偏棕色、杏黃色和有桃紅色的腮紅也很流行。對於晚妝來說，紅脣加上一點橘色依舊是不二之選。"《Vogue》雜誌印度版的美容編輯帕裏扎德•可汗（Parizaad Khan）說，"眼影粉一直是印度女性的最愛，無論什麼季節，無論怎樣的流行趨勢。"她說。奇妙的是MAC排名前三的暢銷化妝品都是黑色眼線。"我們會爲晚妝花上飛翹的眼線，以及爲手指和腳趾塗上亮麗的顏色。"可汗補充說，"寶萊塢或許是最大的影響源……但印度女性們在彩妝藝術家和美髮師的推廣下已經意識到了國際的美容潮流。我看到許多的女孩子挑染她們的頭髮，這或許是從DSquared的春夏T臺上學來的。"可汗說。

Beijing and Shanghai

北京和上海

"Vogue is saying sky blue or bright red nails – the Chinese have beautiful hands and feet and they love decorated nails," says Kathy Phillips, international beauty director of Condé Nast Asia Pacific. Yet, she continues: "I don't think they think in terms of trends. Make-up is not a big thing and you very rarely see women in lipstick; there is more interest in skincare." The weather plays a part in this: "In most places summer is too hot to wear make-up; it is important to look clean," says Helena Hu, beauty director of Elle China. And Chinese actresses are a reference point. "Fan Bing Bing is the most popular beauty idol today," says Hu. The most popular received trend of the summer? "The Chanel trend with the pearls in the hair is hugely popular. The Chinese love hair accessories and the idea of putting decoration in your hair as a way to get it out of the way and look pretty," says Phillips.

"《Vogue》雜誌預告了天藍色或豔紅色的指甲油將會成爲流行——中國人的手腳都很漂亮，他們也熱衷於裝飾指甲。"康泰納仕亞太區國際美容總監凱西•菲利普斯（Kathy Phillips）這麼說道。不過，她又繼續說："我不認爲他們考慮過流行趨勢。彩妝並非一件不得了的事，你很少會看到塗口紅的女性；她們更關注護膚。"氣候因素對此有部分影響："在許多地方，夏天化妝實在是太熱了；看起來乾淨清爽纔是最重要的。"《Elle》雜誌中文版美容總監Helena Hu說。而中國的女明星們成爲了參照對象。"范冰冰如今已經成爲最紅的美容典範。"Hu說。那麼最流行的夏季趨勢是什麼？"發間點綴珍珠的香奈兒（Chanel）風最受歡迎。中國人喜歡髮飾，頭髮上的飾品會讓人看起來很俏麗。"菲利普斯說。

Tokyo

東京

"In the spring it was pink cheeks and lips and for summer it will be coral," says make-up artist and creative director for RMK Cosmetics, Tolu. This ties in with Vogue Japan's 1950s pink and coral summer beauty message, set to feature on its beauty pages. "I think those slightly cold colours work with their skin," says Phillips, "but, as a whole, Japanese women are very unmade-up. They are much more concerned with the shape of their face, their eyes being big and skin being dewy." Though Phillips does not think western trends have much effect on the Japanese beauty market, make-up artist Shinobu Abe disagrees: "Japanese women copy western girls' eyes, to make them look bigger and rounder. They curl lashes, apply layers of mascara, then false lashes," he says.

"春天流行粉色的腮紅和口紅，而夏天則會是珊瑚色當道。"彩妝藝術家以及化妝品牌RMK的創意總監Tolu說。這與《Vogue》雜誌日本版美容專題所做的粉色與珊瑚色的五十年代風格極爲吻合。"我認爲這些稍微有點冷色調的顏色很襯她們的皮膚。"菲利普斯說，"但是，總的來說，日本女性還是不太愛彩妝。她們更多關注的是自己的臉型，眼睛要大，皮膚要滋潤。"雖然菲利普斯認爲西方的彩妝趨勢對日本化妝品市場影響不大，但彩妝藝術家阿部忍（Shinobu Abe）卻持有不同觀點："日本女性們模仿西方女孩兒的眼妝，好讓自己的眼睛看起來又大又圓。她們把睫毛夾得翹翹的，塗上一層層的睫毛膏，還裝上假睫毛。"他這麼說道。