秀場第一排俄羅斯人走了 中國人來了

It was not long ago that the Russians mobbed fashion week. They bought dresses, and houses like Giambattista Valli, Jean Paul Gaultier and Chanel were lining up to land them as clients.

就在不久之前，時裝週上還到處都是俄羅斯人的影子。她們買買買，詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利(Giambattista Valli)、讓·保羅·高緹耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)和香奈兒(Chanel)等品牌爭相接待她們。

In the last year, that is gone, kaput. The Russian buyers are not in the front row. The czarinas have mostly gone missing at couture this week (replaced, in part, by Chinese pop and film stars who are trailed by an army of paparazzi from back home).

去年，這種景象煙消雲散。如今，坐在頭排的不再是俄羅斯買家。在這次高級定製時裝週上，俄羅斯女沙皇們大都不見蹤影（取而代之的是一些中國流行歌星和電影明星，她們一直被中國的狗仔隊大軍追隨着）。

“The politics in Russia between countries is not the best for this time,” said Elena Perminova, a Russian front-row stalwart, from the lobby of the Palais de Tokyo, outside the Armani Privé show on Tuesday. “That’s a big reason.”

“目前，俄羅斯與各國的政治關係不是最好的時候，”俄羅斯資深頭排名人埃琳娜·佩米諾娃(Elena Perminova)週二在東京宮(Palais de Tokyo)大堂的阿瑪尼高級定製時裝秀(Armani Privé)場外說，“這是個重要原因。”

The other significant problem? The titanic collapse of the ruble, which has lost more than 40 percent of its value in the last year.

另一個重要原因是什麼呢？盧布暴跌。在過去一年中，盧布貶值超過40%。

“It’s very upsetting,” said Frol Burimskiy, a partner in Ulyana Sergeenko’s fashion label. “It’s quite hard to plan your year. We have to see where the rates are. We had to change planning many times.”

“這非常令人不安，”優麗亞娜·瑟吉安科(Ulyana Sergeenko)同名服裝品牌的合夥人弗羅爾·布里姆斯基(Frol Burimskiy)說，“你很難爲這一年做計劃。我們不得不看看哪裏的匯率最合適，不得不多次改變計劃。”

Ms. Sergeenko has been one of the biggest faces of the Russian fashion invasion. She married the Russian billionaire Danil Khachaturov, became a street style star and then began a haute couture line. This season, she is showing by appointment only.

瑟吉安科是俄羅斯時裝入侵中最重要的人物之一。她嫁給了俄羅斯億萬富翁丹尼爾·哈恰圖羅夫(Danil Khachaturov)，成爲街拍明星，然後開創了一個高級定製服裝系列。這一季，只有提前預約，才能觀看她的時裝秀。

Mr. Burimskiy said the economy had an impact on buyers. “The Russian presence will be less,” he said. “People have to get back to life and be more serious about spending.”

布里姆斯基說，經濟情況對買家們有影響。“出席時裝秀的俄羅斯人會變少，”他說，“人們還是得迴歸日常生活，在花費上不能那麼隨便了。”

He said the reason Ms. Sergeenko held a presentation — albeit in a suite at Le Bristol Paris, a five-star hotel that is among the most expensive in the French capital — was not related to the Russian economy, but instead a desire to offer clients the intimacy of a private viewing.

他說，瑟吉安科舉辦展示會的原因與俄羅斯經濟無關，而是爲了給客戶們一種私人觀秀的親密感。這場展示會在五星級酒店巴黎布裏斯托爾(Le Bristol Paris)的一個套房裏舉行，該酒店是法國首都最昂貴的酒店之一。

“It’s a little bit of a different budget, and it’s a little bit smaller,” he said. “Take into account how much all the currencies are changing and what the ruble has become. It was a different decision but it was great timing, a happy decision.”

“預算跟我們最初的設想有點不同，有點少，”他說，“我們考慮了所有貨幣的變化以及布盧的匯率。這個決定跟我們原來的想法不同，但它的時機很好，令人滿意。”

The front-row machine goes on. At the Chanel show on Tuesday, Dylan Penn sat front row while her mother, Robin Wright, went to Armani, holding hands with her boyfriend, Ben Foster.

不過頭排風雲仍在繼續。週二，迪倫·潘(Dylan Penn) 坐在香奈兒(Chanel)時裝秀的頭排。而她的媽媽羅賓·懷特(Robin Wright)則攜男友本·福斯特(Ben Foster)前去觀看阿瑪尼(Armani)的時裝秀。

And at the Armani show, there were a pair of silver foxes from Germany in matching dove gray outfits. “We’re probably some of the best private customers,” said Thomas Pötzsch, who runs a shipping company. In the last year, he said, he has spent more than 100,000 euros, or about $112,900, at Armani for himself and his wife.

在阿瑪尼時裝秀上，有一對來自德國的漂亮中老年夫婦，他們穿着與灰白頭髮般配的鴿灰色套裝。“我們很可能屬於最私密的客戶，”經營船運公司的托馬斯·珀奇克(Thomas Pötzsch)說。他說，在過去一年裏，他花了10多萬歐元（約合11.29萬美元）給自己和妻子購買阿瑪尼服裝。

They stood, beaming, just a few feet from Ms. Perminova.

他們笑容滿面地站在那裏，幾英尺開外就是佩米諾娃。

“It’s really expensive for us to buy something new,” said Ms. Perminova, who is married to the media baron Alexander Lebedev. “When I buy something, I’m thinking. And others, like rich people? They’re thinking about it.”

“買新東西對我們來說真的很昂貴，”佩米諾娃說。她嫁給了媒體大亨亞歷山大·列別傑夫(Alexander Lebedev)。“我買東西的時候都會想一想。其他人，就是那些有錢人會怎樣呢？我覺得他們也會想一下。”