美國皮膚專家告訴你：什麼樣的化妝品痘痘族千萬不能用

Acne is the WORST. And the more you have, the more inclined you feel to layer on heavy foundation to cover it up. But sometimes your makeup can lead to new breakouts, and you become trapped in a vicious cycle of wanting to hide your blemishes while the product you're using creates more of them.
臉上長痘太可怕了。痘越多，你越想用厚厚的粉底遮住它。但化妝品有時會導致新一輪痘痘大爆發，於是你便陷入了“用化妝品遮痘——化妝品爆痘”的惡性循環中。

Before you reach for the concealer, it's worth taking a moment to understand what's going on with your skin: "The development of acne requires the presence of several contributory factors including oil production, certain bacteria, and occlusion of pores," says Arielle Nagler, MD, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Medical Center. Any of these factors can make you more likely to break out when you add makeup to the mix. But, she explains, not all makeup is created equal. The trick is to choose a foundation that's right for your skin.
用遮瑕膏遮痘痘之前，你有必要花時間瞭解一下自己的臉部狀況。“長痘是多種因素導致的，包括臉部出油、細菌滋生和毛孔堵塞，”紐約大學朗格尼醫學中心皮膚科醫生、醫學博士阿麗爾·納格勒說。在臉上塗抹化妝品時，以上任何一種因素都會增加爆痘的可能性。不過納格勒還解釋說，化妝品各不相同，選擇適合自己膚質的粉底，可以避免痘痘的滋生。

Avoid comedogenic products
含以下成分的產品一定不能用

"The main mechanism by which cosmetic ingredients cause acne is through occlusion of pores," says Dr. Nagler, and the following are all known pore-cloggers.
納格勒醫生表示，“化妝品引起痘痘的主要原因是堵塞毛孔。”以下化妝品成分容易堵塞毛孔。

Alcohols:
酒精：
Cetearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and other types can trigger the development of white heads and blackheads, the first lesions in acne. Even worse, alcohols are irritants and can dry out the skin. That irritation can trigger flare-ups, which make it more difficult to use acne-fighting medications, since those too can be drying, explains Melisa Piliang, MD, a dermatologist at the Cleveland Clinic.
棕櫚醇、油醇及其他醇類會滋生暗瘡和黑頭，它們是長出痘痘的第一步。克利夫蘭醫學中心皮膚科醫生、醫學博士梅麗薩·皮里昂指出：更糟的是，酒精還刺激皮膚，使皮膚乾燥，進而爆痘，但抗痘藥物這時候卻不建議使用了，因爲這種藥物會使皮膚進一步變幹。

Lanolin:
羊毛脂：
Used as an emollient to soften the skin, lanolin and its derivatives (like acetylated lanolin) can also lead to breakouts.
作爲軟化皮膚的潤膚劑，羊毛脂和含有羊毛脂成分的物質（如乙酰化羊毛脂）也會爆痘。

Silicones:
聚硅酮：
Cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and other forms of silicone such as dimethicone, phenyl, and trimethicone are a no-no for acne-prone skin, according to Debra Jaliman, MD, an assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City and author of Skin Rules. Another substance to avoid: petrolatum, which is sometimes found in moisturizing foundations, she says.
黛博拉·加里曼是紐約西奈山醫學院皮膚病科助理教授、醫學博士，著有《護膚法則》一書。她表示，易痘膚質絕對不能使用含有聚硅氧化合物、環己硅氧烷、二甲聚硅氧烷、苯基和三甲基聚硅氧烷等含有聚硅酮成分的化妝品。有些保溼粉底中的礦脂也要避免使用。

Oils:
油類：
Some foundations include oil, such as mineral oil, coconut oil, and cocoa butter. But oils are not recommended for anyone with acne, cautions Dr. Piliang. Adding extra oil to already oily skin can clog your pores even more.
有些粉底中含有礦物油、椰子油、可可油等油類。皮里昂醫生提醒痘痘膚質的人不要使用含油類的化妝品。在油性肌膚上增加油類成分會使毛孔堵塞更嚴重。

Fatty acids: The ingredient ehylhexyl palmitate, a derivative of palm oil, may also be responsible for makeup-induced acne woes. "Keep in mind that 'natural ingredients' can be comedogenic as well," says Dr. Piliang.
脂肪酸：乙基己酯棕櫚酸是棕櫚油的一種，含有此成分的化妝品也會悶出大量痘痘。皮里昂醫生說：“就算是‘純天然成分’，也可能導致痘痘產生，大家一定要記住這一點。”

Be wary of the claims on labels
哪種抗痘化妝品不能用

A few companies have begun labeling their foundation and concealer as "acne-fighting." But that may not mean what you think: Acne-fighting typically indicates that a product contains over-the-counter medication like salicylic acid. While salicylic acid does have properties that can help unclog pores, it also has the potential to be drying, notes Dr. Piliang.
有些化妝品公司開始在粉底和遮瑕產品上標註“抗痘功效”，但這種“抗痘功效”跟你想的可能不太一樣——它們通常是含有水楊酸等非處方藥成分的產品。皮里昂醫生表示，儘管水楊酸的確能夠清除毛孔堵塞，但它也可能會導致皮膚乾燥。

Look for these four ingredients
使用含下面四種成分的化妝品

There are foundations out there that can actually help your skin, says Dr. Jaliman. When you're shopping, she recommends scanning labels for ingredients such as aloe and antimicrobial peptide 10. Retinols and vitamin A derivatives are plusses as well, says Dr. Nagler: Both are thought to "improve the rate of turn over of your skin to help prevent the development of those pesky zits," she explains. "In addition, retinols stimulate collagen helping to counter the effects of aging and sun.
加里曼醫生表示，有些粉底能夠幫助改善膚質。選購化妝品時，她推薦購買含有蘆薈和“抗菌蛋白10”的化妝品。納格勒醫生認爲視黃醇和維生素A也可以“改變膚質，避免粉刺滋生”。“另外，視黃醇能夠促進膠原蛋白合成，抗皮膚老化，防紫外線照射。”