男士改良工裝褲 實用又時尚

MIKE TROIANO NEEDED to get something off his chest, and he went to social media to do it. In a recent Instagram post, the CMO of Waltham, Mass.-based tech company Actifio announced to the world, with a mix of liberation and mourning: 'Retiring Bigass Suburban Dad Cargo Shorts. Godspeed, old friend. #itssohardtosaygoodbye.' The accompanying photo showed a forlorn and weathered pair of olive cargo shorts. The pockets sagged like old skin, clearly distressed from years of carrying, as Mr. Troiano told me, 'anything smaller than a toaster.'

邁克·特羅亞諾(Mike Troiano)有心事要傾吐，於是他去了社交媒體上發帖子。在最近的一個Instagram帖子上，這位馬薩諸塞州沃爾瑟姆市(Waltham)科技公司Actifio的首席營銷長帶着既解脫又哀痛的情緒向世界宣佈：“大號‘鄉下老爸’的工裝短褲要退休了。祝你好運，老朋友。#itssohardtosaygoodbye（想說再見太難）。”配的照片是一條可憐的、飽經風霜的橄欖色工裝短褲。下垂的口袋就像是衰老的皮膚，顯然是遭受了多年裝東西的折磨。正如特羅亞諾告訴我的：“只要是比烤麪包機小的東西都會往裏塞。”

Like many men, myself included, Mr. Troiano, 47, responded to the cargo craze of the 1990s, when the military-inspired shorts and pants were introduced as casual wear for civilians. Cut above the knee, they were 'the manliest shorts out there,' Mr. Troiano said. As pants, they were rough, tough and workable for carpenters, adventurers and ordinary men who just needed to carry more stuff.

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal,Styling by Anne CardenasDockers“阿爾法修身工裝褲”，售價68美元，有售。和許多男士（包括我在內）一樣，47歲的特羅亞諾也對1990年代的工裝熱做出了積極響應。當時這種靈感來自軍服的短褲和長褲首次被作爲休閒裝向普通人推廣。特羅亞諾說，那時這種長度到膝蓋上方的短褲“是最有男人味的短褲”。長褲則比較粗糙耐穿，木匠和冒險家能穿，也適合需要裝更多東西的普通人。

At some point, however, Mr. Troiano decided the baggy cargo look was no longer appropriate. They were a 'stage-of-life' pant, he said, and he was well beyond his undergraduate days. His reaction isn't entirely uncommon-particularly among men who associate the look with sloppy collegiate bros burdened by bloated pockets.

不過，從某個時候開始，特羅亞諾覺得這種寬鬆的工裝風格不再適合了。他說，這種褲子只適合某個階段，而他早就過了大學生的年紀了。他的反應並不罕見——尤其是把這種風格與口袋塞得鼓鼓的散漫的大學男生聯繫起來的男性。

But there may be life in those pockets yet. 'If you asked us if cargo pants were stylish just a few seasons back, we would have answered with a resounding, 'No,' ' wrote the editors at Esquire on the magazine's site in 2012. In the next sentence, however, they confessed to changing their tune. As well they should: In the past couple of years, the cargo has experienced a complete reputation rehab to become one of the most stylish and versatile go-to pieces of a man's wardrobe.

不過這種褲子或許還有一定的生命力。《時尚先生》(Esquire)雜誌編輯2012年在其網站上寫道：“如果幾年前你問我們工裝褲是不是時髦，我們的回答肯定是否。”但是在接下來那句話中，他們卻承認他們的態度正在改變。他們確實也應該改變：這幾年來，工裝褲經歷了一次徹底的名譽修復，成爲了男士衣櫥裏最時尚也最百搭的單品之一。

This spring you can find debonair cargo pants from labels like Michael Bastian, Todd Snyder, Ovadia & Sons, Balmain and Michael Kors. Even Dockers, which reported that its sales of cargoes have grown in the past year, this spring introduced a trimmer and more stylish pair, called the Alpha Slim-Fit Cargo.

從左至右依次爲：瑞格布恩、Ovadia & Sons、拉夫•勞倫黑標(Ralph Lauren Black Label)今年春季，你能找到來自邁克爾·巴斯蒂安(Michael Bastian)、託德·斯奈德(Todd Snyder)、Ovadia & Sons、巴爾曼(Balmain)以及邁克爾·科斯(Michael Kors)等品牌的優雅工裝褲。就連Dockers今年春季都推出了一款更時尚的修身工裝褲，名爲“阿爾法修身工裝褲”(Alpha Slim-Fit Cargo)。據報道，Dockers去年工裝褲的銷量有所增長。

These new styles have evolved greatly from the original '90s cargo, which had a Rambo-in-Passaic look. 'These aren't college-fit cargoes that are baggy and beyond,' said Michael Kors. 'Ours are polished with a cleaner fit. I wear cargoes all the time.'

這些新款式是從最初90年代軍裝痕跡比較明顯的款式演變而來的。邁克爾·科斯說：“這些並不是適合大學生的寬鬆工裝褲，我們的款式設計得更修身。我一直都穿工裝褲。”

Mr. Kors's version is slender and comfortable with real New York attitude. It has the crisp lines of a chino with a great deal more visual appeal. With four smooth zippered pockets, these cargoes are a slap in the face to the bulkiness of the past, and pickpockets of the future.

F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal,Styling by Anne Cardenas從左至右依次爲：託德•斯奈德、邁克爾•巴斯蒂安、Gant by Michael Bastian、李維斯(Levi's)、邁克爾•科斯

American designer Michael Bastian has included cargoes in his collection since his first spring season in 2007. Mr. Bastian's spring cargo pant, pictured at right, is softened up, with slim legs and neater, flatter pockets. They could replace your linen slacks for a languorous soiree on the beach, but they're polished enough for a smart weekend in the city or even a summer Friday at the office. 'I think [the cargo] is the one pant that falls directly in that spot between jeans and chinos,' said Mr. Bastian. '[It's] a little more dressed up than a jean and a little more special than an ordinary chino. It covers a lot of ground.'

託德•斯奈德這款腿部修身剪裁的工裝褲採用人字紋面料。口袋爲平整的流線型，中間沒有典型的褶皺。Infantry工裝褲，售價295美元，有售。

He said he wears corduroy cargoes for much of the year; in winter, they're heavier and blended with cashmere; in summer, they're lighter weight and off-white. 'Pair [cargoes] with a very tailored blazer,' he advised, 'and you're well-dressed enough for anything.' Seeing the designer's signature cargo look-rolled to the ankle and paired with a soft-shouldered blazer, shirt and tie-is enough to banish any frat-boy associations you ever had.

邁克爾•巴斯蒂安帶四合扣的平整的口袋位於略高於小腿的位置。Snap工裝褲，售價465美元，Cottage Miami有售，電話305-534-9917。

One association designers would do well to hang onto is cargoes' connection to military history, which lends them a cool, rugged appeal. 'Cargo pants' longevity is all about their utilitarianism,' said American designer Todd Snyder, whose resume includes stints at Gap, and Polo Ralph Lauren dating back to 1992, and who shares Mr. Cucinelli's fondness for pairing cargo pants with a sport coat. 'That functionality endures over time.' Mr. Snyder's olive-hued Infantry Cargo pants, shown above, have slim modern lines but also a historical military feel: You can almost see them on Alec Guinness in 'The Bridge on the River Kwai' or in a 'Downton Abbey' war scene.

李維斯採用全棉斜紋布面料，非常適合騎車上班。口袋有兩個夾層。通勤工裝褲，售價78美元，有售。

Adhering even closer to the style's military roots, Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville collaborated this spring with Crye Precision, manufacturers of modern-day combat apparel, to create their Precision Pants. With inverted pleat pockets on both leg fronts and backs, the trousers are severely stylized. The collaboration, said Mr. Wainwright, telegraphs that their cargoes are 'all about vintage and authentic military clothing,' cutting to the heart of men's appreciation for the look.

Gant by Michael Bastian腰部帶鈕釦的口袋可以裝東西，大腿的口袋就可以騰出來。腰帶很特別地帶有額外的鈕釦。完美工裝褲(Perfect Cargo Pant)，售價225美元，有售。

But loving cargo pants doesn't necessarily mean that you're one step away from re-enacting the Battle of the Bulge on the weekends. There's something purely aesthetic in the power of the pocket. 'It gives the pants just a little extra interest, rather than just a regular flat-front trouser,' said Bruce Pask, men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman.

邁克爾•科斯這款修身工裝褲採用很輕的彈性斜紋布面料，有四個小的拉鍊口袋。工裝褲，售價175美元，有售。

And so what started as a utilitarian pant and advertisement for masculinity, has morphed into an endlessly interpreted design staple. Will the cargo ever go away? Avowed cargo enthusiast Alex Kasavin certainly doesn't think so. Mr. Kasavin, a co-owner of Brooklyn menswear shop IDOL, sees only continued evolution. A designer's sensibility can come through even when he works within the conventions of cargo pants, Mr. Kasavin said. 'It's still a cargo, but it's also clearly that designer's pant.' At his store, he is selling the Matrix-like 'Memphis' pants from Rick Owens's Drkshdw label. He also admires styles from other designers, such as Balmain.

Everett Collection老式工裝褲 2000年，身穿寬鬆工裝褲的男孩樂團98 Degrees成員。科斯的款式很瘦，很舒服，有着純粹的紐約態度。它有着斜紋棉布褲的挺括線條，視覺上的吸引力則強得多。四個流暢的拉鍊口袋讓從前的臃腫無所遁形，也讓小偷無處下手。

These days, cargo pants speak across cultures, from hip-hop to hipster, beach front to board room. With all these options, I thought, surely I can coax Suburban Dad Mr. Troiano back into the cargo-pant fold.

從2007年首個春季系列開始，美國設計師邁克爾·巴斯蒂安的設計就一直包括工裝褲。右圖中巴斯蒂安今春的工裝褲更加柔軟，小腿更修身，口袋也更平整。這條褲子可以替代亞麻寬鬆褲去參加慵懶的沙灘聚會，而若要在城市裏度過瀟 的週末，或者夏季的週五在辦公室裏，它也足夠地精緻。巴斯蒂安說：“我覺得工裝褲正好介於牛仔褲和斜紋棉布褲之間的位置。它比牛仔褲正式一點，又比普通的棉布褲更特別一點。它可以駕馭很多場合。”

First, I asked if he would look at some images of the futuristic cargo pants by Rick Owens. He fell silent. It was the silence of countless of us dads who have passed Brooklyn hipster viability. Next, I asked him to look at Todd Snyder's work. 'That's a nice pant,' he said, '[It's] a classic look.' 'How so?' I asked. 'Like Otis Day's 'Shout' classic,' he said, 'everyone loves that song!' Yes, I thought, in their own ways, everyone loves these pants.

但是說到最新的設計師品牌高檔工裝褲，不得不提到意大利設計師布魯奈羅·庫奇內利(Brunello Cucinelli)。他花了很大精力爲工裝褲賦予了一絲奢華和休閒高雅的元素。庫奇內利就像是一位時尚預言師，他從1998年開始就設計了小巧的工裝褲款式。他說：“這種款式既年輕又實用，會讓人顯得很現代，同時又很舒適。它已經成了我的常規穿着。”

But you can't talk about the new generation of high-end, designer-refined cargo pants without mentioning Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli, -0.20% who has done more than his share to impart an air of luxury and casual sophistication to the pants. Something of a fashion fortune teller, Mr. Cucinelli has produced a more dapper cargo pant since 1998. 'There is something youthful and practical about them which keeps a man looking modern and comfortable,' said Mr. Cucinelli. 'They've become part of my uniform.'

他說他大部分時候都穿燈芯絨工裝褲。冬天比較厚，布料添加了羊絨；夏天是輕薄的白色工裝褲。他建議道：“可以把工裝褲和裁剪十分考究的休閒西服搭配，這樣什麼場合都能應付。” 巴斯蒂安的標誌性工裝褲款式——褲腳卷至腳踝，搭配一件無肩襯休閒西服、襯衫和領帶——足以將任何兄弟會的痕跡消除。

THAT'S DEBATABLE | Should I actually carry anything in my cargo pockets?

設計師仍然很堅持的一點是工裝褲和軍服之間的聯繫，這種聯繫讓工裝褲有了一種很酷的粗獷的吸引力。美國設計師託德·斯奈德(Todd Snyder)說：“‘工裝褲’的長盛不衰在於它的實用主義。”自1992年起，斯奈德陸續在蓋璞(Gap)、和拉夫·勞倫(Polo Ralph Lauren)供職。他和庫奇內利一樣，都喜歡將工裝褲和輕便上衣搭配。他說：“那種功用性是歷久常新的。”上圖中斯奈德設計的橄欖色步兵工裝褲有着修長的現代線條，同時也有軍裝的歷史感：《桂河大橋》(The Bridge on the River Kwai)中的亞歷克·吉尼斯(Alec Guinness)身上或者《唐頓莊園》(Downton Abbey)中的戰爭場景中就有這種褲子的影子。

Sure!

今年春季，瑞格布恩(Rag & Bone)設計師馬庫斯·溫賴特(Marcus Wainwright)及大衛·內維爾(David Neville)與現代軍服制造商Crye Precision聯合推出了Precision Pants，將工裝褲與軍服的淵源體現得更淋漓盡致。這款褲子前後都有暗?袋，風格化十足。溫賴特說，這次合作的工裝褲“就是對老式的真正的軍服的演繹”，完全顛覆了男士們對這種款式的審美。

Crazy as it sounds, 'utilitarian' fashion can actually be useful, contends the pro-stash camp. 'You can carry everything in your pockets,' said Alex Kasavin, co-owner of Brooklyn store IDOL. American designer Todd Snyder takes a more conservative approach-restricting the actual cargo to slim and essential objects. 'You can carry your phone and passport,' said Mr. Snyder. 'But nothing bulky.'

但愛穿工裝褲並不一定意味着你週末穿上工裝褲會讓突出部之役(Battle of the Bulge)重新上演。工裝褲的口袋有着很純粹的美感。波道夫·古德曼精品百貨店(Bergdorf Goodman)男裝總監布魯斯·派斯克(Bruce Pask)說：“口袋讓褲子多了有趣的元素，讓它不再是一條平淡無奇的褲子了。”

Not Really

於是，最開始主打男子漢氣概的實用工裝褲演變成了有無數種解讀的設計單品。工裝褲會不會淡出時尚舞臺？酷愛工裝褲的亞歷克斯·卡薩文(Alex Kasavin)肯定不會這麼認爲。卡薩文是布魯克林男裝店IDOL的老闆之一，他認爲工裝褲只會繼續演化。卡薩文說，即使是按照工裝褲的傳統慣例設計，設計師的感覺也能體現出來。他說：“雖然還是工裝褲，但也很明顯帶有設計師的風格。”他的店裏賣的是瑞克·歐文斯(Rick Owens)旗下Drkshdw品牌的工裝褲，《黑客帝國》(Matrix)裏孟菲斯(Memphis)的那種款式。他也喜歡巴爾曼等其他設計師的款式。

Since one crucial element of the revamped designer cargo is sleeker pockets, keeping them empty or near-empty makes sense. 'You don't want to end up looking like a pack mule,' said Michael Kors. But if you must, he allowed: 'Just a slim credit card or wallet.' Bergdorf Goodman men's fashion director Bruce Pask always keeps his cargo pockets clean, with one exception-those days when he's on location for a photo shoot.

從嘻哈到嬉皮，從海灘到會議室，如今各類文化中都能看到工裝褲的身影。我覺得，既然有這麼多的選擇，我肯定可以把“鄉下老爸”特羅亞諾拉回到工裝褲的世界。

Maybe

首先，我問他是否願意看看瑞克·歐文斯設計的未來主義風格工裝褲的圖片。他陷入了沉默。正是無數老爸們的這種沉默最終讓布魯克林嬉皮風得以延續。接下來我讓他看託德·斯奈德的作品。他說：“這條褲子不錯，經典的風格。”我問道：“爲什麼？”他說：“就像Otis Day的經典歌曲《吶喊》(Shout)。所有人都喜歡那首歌！”沒錯，我心想，每個人都在以自己的方式喜歡這種褲子。

Some feel it's a matter of choice. 'That's a very personal question,' said Rag & Bone designer Marcus Wainwright. 'I'm not going to determine that for anybody.'

爭議點 該不該在工裝褲口袋裏裝東西？

Lawrence LaRose

Illustration by Joe McKendry for The Wall Street Journal褲兜當然可以裝東西！當然可以！