當前位置

首頁 > 英語閱讀 > 雙語新聞 > 拉夫·勞倫 希拉里的御用裁縫

拉夫·勞倫 希拉里的御用裁縫

推薦人: 來源: 閱讀: 1.97W 次

拉夫·勞倫 希拉里的御用裁縫

Has Hillary Clinton found her dresser inchief? It would appear that way.

希拉里·克林頓(Hillary Clinton)找到她的首席着裝師了嗎?似乎如此。

While the Twitterverse was busy parsing thepossible subtexts of Melania Trump’s decision to wear ahot pink Gucci pussy-bow blouse to watch her husband, Donald J.

梅拉尼婭·特朗普(Melania Trump) 選擇穿玫粉色古馳(Gucci)蝴蝶結襯衫,觀看丈夫唐納德·J·特朗普(Donald J.

Trump, during the second presidentialdebate Sunday evening (given his recently revealed lewd comments about womenfrom 2005), it was actually what Mrs. Clinton wore that seemed meaningful to me.

Trump)參加週日晚上的第二次總統候選人辯論會,Twitter界忙着分析這其中有什麼潛在的涵義(背景是特朗普最近被曝出曾在2005年對女性發表不雅言辭[他當時提及pussy,英文中針對女性性器官的一個通俗說法,而蝴蝶結亦可稱爲pussy bow——譯註]),然而,對於我來說,希拉里·克林頓的着裝才更有意義。

Specifically, her use of a Ralph Laurennavy wool double-faced pantsuit with a cream shawl collar and cream wool top tobetter frame the jovial-serenity-atop-policy-wonk approach with which she haschosen to contrast herself with Mr Trump.

她特意穿上了拉夫·勞倫(Ralph Lauren)奶油色披巾領深藍羊毛雙面呢長褲套裝,配上奶油色羊毛上衣,營造出一種平靜友好的政策專家形象,她刻意使用這種形象來和特朗普形成鮮明對比。

See, she also wore Ralph Lauren to thefirst presidential debate (a red trouser suit), to her speech accepting herparty’s nomination at the Democratic National Convention (an ivory suit), andto her opening campaign rally on Roosevelt Island (a periwinkle blue suit).

你看,她在第一次總統辯論上也穿了拉夫·勞倫(紅色長褲套裝),在民主黨全國大會上接受黨內提名發表致辭時也是(象牙色套裝),在羅斯福島上的首場競選集會上還是(寶藍色套裝)。

In other words, she has worn Ralph Laurenfor most of her recent major televised public appearances.

換句話說,她在近期大部分重要電視公開亮相中都穿拉夫·勞倫。

If three is a trend, as they say, fourwould be what? Commitment? A very clear pattern, to say the least.

如果像他們說的,三次代表一種趨勢,那麼四次意味着什麼?死心塌地?至少也算是一種非常清晰的模式。

This matters both because of what it meansnow and what it suggests about how Mrs.

這很重要,不僅是因爲現在的意義,這種着裝選擇暗示克林頓如何使用服裝來加強自己的敘事,而且也是因爲這種着裝選擇在未來的意義。

Clinton is using clothing to bolster herown narrative, and because of what it means for the future.

畢竟,如果她在選舉中獲勝,將會有人來幫助這位美國曆史上的首位女總統來打造她的形象。

After all, if she wins the election, itwill be up to someone to help craft the image of the first female president ofthe United States. And thus far, despite the fact that aspokeswoman said the company would not comment on the relationship, evidence isbeginning to build that that someone will be Mr Lauren.

迄今,儘管一位女發言人說拉夫·勞倫公司對雙方的關係不予評論,但是愈來愈多的證據開始表明這個幫克林頓打造形象的人將會是勞倫。

After all, during the 2008 campaign, Mrs. Clinton had no clear allegiance to any onedesigner.

畢竟,在2008年的競選中,克林頓並沒有特別忠於哪位設計師。

And though she has worn other designersover the many months of this campaign (including Giorgio Armani), and thoughduring her time as secretary of state Mrs. Clinton often wore jackets from thedesigner Nina McLemore, the increasing choice of Mr Lauren as the current go-toname and the ability of the clothes to flatter the candidate without callingattention to themselves make it very likely that the pattern will continue.

儘管她在這次漫長的競選中也穿過其他設計師的服裝(包括喬治·阿瑪尼[Giorgio Armani]),而且她在擔任國務卿期間也經常穿設計師妮娜·麥克勒莫爾(Nina McLemore)的外套,然而在當下,勞倫愈來愈經常地爲她提供着裝,他的時裝既能讓這位候選人看上去不錯,又不至於喧賓奪主,因此這個模式很可能會繼續延續下去。

Certainly it would make sense, from both ahistorical and a professional point of view.

從歷史角度和職業角度來看,這當然很有意義。

First ladies from Jacqueline Kennedy (withOleg Cassini) to Nancy Reagan (with Adolfo) often allied themselves with asingle designer, both as a collaborator in shaping the style of theadministration, and for simplicity’s sake.

從青睞奧萊格·卡西尼(Oleg Cassini)的傑奎琳·肯尼迪(Jacqueline Kennedy)到鐘意阿道夫(Adolfo)的南希·里根(Nancy Reagan),第一夫人們經常與某一位設計師結盟,一方面是以合作者的身份打造該屆政府的時尚風格,一方面也是爲了從簡起見。

President Obama said in an interview withVanity Fair during his first term in office that the fewer decisions he had tomake every day, the more he could concentrate on political priorities.

奧巴馬總統(President Obama)在第一任期內接受《名利場》(Vanity Fair)採訪時說,他每天做的決定愈少,就愈能集中精力處理政治要務。

And one of the easiest places for anyone toreduce options is in the wardrobe.

對於任何人來說,衣櫃都不失爲一個最容易幫你減少選擇的地方。

Put simply, the president has moreimportant things to worry about than clothes.

簡而言之,比起操心穿什麼衣服來說,總統還有更重要的事情要擔心。

Which doesn’t mean they don’t matter.

但這不意味着服裝就不重要。

Indeed, Ralph Lauren is an interestingchoice for Mrs. Clinton, both aesthetically andstrategically.

事實上,從美學角度和戰略角度而言,拉夫·勞倫對克林頓來說都算得上一個有趣的選擇。

Mr Lauren is, perhaps, the most ur-Americanof American designers: a man who built an empire on the mythology of theuntrammeled West, where cowboys roamed free among herds of bison, along with akind of Brideshead Revisited Anglo past.

勞倫或許是美國設計師中最具有早期美國(ur-American)色彩的了:他的帝國建立在一個自由自在的西部神話基礎之上:牛仔們在牛羣中漫遊,還有一種《故園風雨後》(Brideshead Revisited)的美國白人歷史感。

He is a man who takes his bow at the end ofhis show in cowboy boots and jeans, who owns a ranch with tepees so luxuriousthey made Oprah Winfrey green with envy when she visited.

在自己的走秀結束後,他總是身穿牛仔靴和牛仔褲出來鞠躬,他擁有一片牧場,裏面有豪華的印第安人圓錐形帳篷,令來訪的奧普拉·溫弗瑞(Oprah Winfrey)也不禁豔羨不已。

A man who dresses the United States Olympicteam for the opening and closing ceremonies, and who (because he got introuble, admittedly) is now doing so in Made-in-America stuff.

美國奧運代表團在開幕式和閉幕式上也是穿他的服裝,而且他現在還在致力於推動美國製造(雖然說這是因爲他遇到麻煩了)。

A man who gave $13 million in 1998 for therestoration of the original Star-Spangled Banner.

1998年,他捐獻了1300萬美元,用來修復最原始的星條旗。

Born in the Bronx, a man who started hiscareer as a tie salesman, he is the stereotypical American success story.

他出生在布朗克斯,是領帶推銷員出身,真是典型的美國成功故事。

He is also Mrs. Clinton’s peer: He is in his mid-70s andwill have experienced many of the same social and political upheavals as shehas.

他也是希拉里·克林頓的同代人:他70多歲,和她經歷過許多同樣的社會與政治風波。

What he is not, however, is young, ahyphenate (such as Cuban-American or Asian-American), in need of the publicity,or even a very adventurous designer — all hallmarks of the choices made by thecurrent political style-setter in the White House, Michelle Obama.

不過,他並不年輕,不是少數族裔(比如古巴裔美國人或者亞裔美國人),不迫切需要公衆曝光,甚至也不是一個特別有冒險精神的設計師——而這些他所不是的東西都是目前白宮的政治時尚奠定者,米歇爾·奧巴馬(Michelle Obama)選擇服裝時所強調的特點。

Mrs. Obama has used her public profile tosupport new American names, to further disseminate the idea of the UnitedStates as a melting pot, and to otherwise expand the definition of a firstlady.

奧巴馬伕人利用自己的公衆形象來支持年輕的美國設計師,進一步傳播美國是個大熔爐的理念,同時也拓展了第一夫人的定義。

(He is also not — duh — European, whichsounds ridiculous but also distinguishes ton from Mr Trump, who favors Brionisuits, and whose wife, Melania, has worn the Italian label Fendi and theBritish label Roksanda Ilincic while supporting her husband, as well as theaforementioned Gucci.)

他也不是——嗯——不是歐洲人,這聽上去有點可笑,但是卻能把希拉里·克林頓和青睞布里奧尼[Brioni]西裝的特朗普區分開,而他的妻子梅拉尼婭在支持丈夫的時候,除了穿過上述的古馳服裝,還會選擇意大利品牌芬迪[Fendi]和英國品牌洛克山達·埃琳西克[Roksanda Ilincic]。

And though it seems Mr Lauren is theestablishment choice, given both his dominant position in the fashion world andthe noncontroversial politesse of his clothes — which could be construed as abad choice for ton, given the clear desire on the partof so much of the electorate to upend the Washington establishment — he has, infact, never been much of a White House presence (a black dress worn by Mrs. Obama to a British state dinner aside).

考慮到他在時尚界的重要地位,以及他的時裝那種毫無爭議的禮貌氣質,勞倫看似是掌權者的必然選擇——不過這對於克林頓來說,也可能被視爲一種糟糕的選擇,鑑於太多選民顛覆華盛頓權貴階層的明確願望——事實上,他的服裝很少在白宮出現(只有一次例外,奧巴馬伕人穿過一次勞倫的黑色連衣裙出席英國國宴)。

That honor often went to Oscar de la Renta,who died in 2014 but who had dressed first ladies from Mrs. Kennedy to Laura Bush during his career.

爲白宮着裝的榮譽通常歸於2014年去世的奧斯卡·德拉倫塔(Oscar de la Renta),在他的事業生涯中,曾爲從肯尼迪夫人到勞拉·布什(Laura Bush)在內的多位第一夫人設計服裝。

A Clinton-Lauren collaboration would have,indubitably, elegant results.

毫無疑問,克林頓與勞倫的合作會產生優雅的效果。

She would look, if she does becomepresident, always appropriate.

如果真能當選總統,她一定總能看上去恰如其分。

Odds are that the pantsuits would continuebut that they would be slightly more tailored than they have been, a bit lesslike coat-dresses, a little softer.

長褲套裝有很大的可能性會延續下去,不過在剪裁上更爲精心,不會那麼像風衣式裙裝,變得稍微柔和一點。

Together, they would not foment sartorialrevolution, or shatter the Angela Merkel mold of dressing, or change theparameters of what it means to look like a president.

他們兩人在一起不會煽動時裝革命,也不會顛覆安格拉·默克爾(Angela Merkel)的着裝模式,更不會改變總統形象的規範。

That’s probably no badthing, since the next holder of the executive office will have other eggs tobreak, and there’s no reason to waste political capital on clothes.

這或許不是壞事,因爲下一任白宮主人還有其他陳規需要打破,也沒有理由在服裝上浪費政治資產。

As a woman, though, I can’t help butwish that something a little more radical may happen so that the feminizationof power could be clear for all to see, whether they are listening to a speechor just looking at Instagram.

儘管作爲一個女人,我忍不住期待一些稍微激進一點的事情,讓所有人不管是在聽總統演講或是瀏覽Instagram時,都可以清晰地看到權力的女性化趨勢。

And maybe, if Mrs. Clinton is elected, shewill decide to cast her sartorial net widely, and experiment.

或許,如果克林頓當選,她會考慮穿更多品牌的服裝,進行更廣泛的嘗試。

You never know.

誰知道呢。

But either way, if Mrs. Clinton does become president, whoeverdresses her will be designing the look of history.

但是不管怎樣,如果克林頓真能當選,不管是誰爲她設計服裝,那人都是在設計歷史的樣貌。

That, at least, we know for sure.

至少我們清楚地知道這一點。