藍色魅影:年春夏季海洋系眼妝再度走紅

This season's must-have make-up trend has quite literally come out of the blue. Sarah Young investigates the beauty industry's renewed love for a nostalgic favourite

這一季度“必備彩妝”的趨勢已然在很大程度上以藍色爲主色調。薩拉•楊，針對美容界對這個曾經受到廣泛喜愛的過時元素又重新燃起了熱情這一現象，進行了調查。

Colour is making a comeback and if the spring runways are anything to go by a stand-out blue wash is the only colour to wear on your eyes this season. While the vast majority of us haven’t dabbled with the shade since the bygone days of dance recitals it seems to be making a mighty return to our make-up rotation. The vogue for blue eye make-up brings with it a sense of nostalgia but a coming of age contends that more contemporary hues of cobalt, sapphire and aquamarine are worthy of your devotion and it doesn’t stop there.

彩妝正在強勢歸來，如果形形色色的設計都如走馬觀花似的出現在春季系列的T臺上，那麼脫穎而出的水洗藍將是本季唯一一個能夠塗抹在眼睛上的顏色。雖然我們中的大多數都還沒有嘗試過用水洗藍作眼影，但是這樣的妝容似乎正在時尚彩妝不斷更替的浪潮中強勢迴歸。伴隨藍色眼妝的時尚風潮而來的，是一種懷舊的感覺，但是也有人爭論說更具現代氣息的鈷藍色、藍寶石色和海藍色纔是值得青睞的。各方爭論仍在繼續。

There’s much more to oceanic eyes than a painterly swathe of shadow this time round, granting Missoni opted for a wash of colour on the lids but a far more novel approach to this beauty riposte meant a densely pigmented shade of cobalt blue spoke for itself. Likewise, Diane Von Furstenberg and Roksanda chose to apprise classic shadow by creating a retro smoky eye in shimmering hues of mermaid-esque teal.

這一次，對於海洋系眼妝來說，不再是隻需要畫出一條彩色眼影來那麼簡單了，米索尼選擇在眼瞼處用一種水洗顏色上妝，但是這一復古美可以變得更加新穎——即只選擇濃密的鈷藍色眼影作爲眼妝。同樣，黛安•馮芙絲汀寶和洛克山達也選擇通過創造美人魚式的閃亮藍綠色調的復古煙燻眼妝，來向傳統的眼影樣式靠攏。

According to the spring/summer 2016 shows though, there are far more innovative ways to experiment with the shade; it’s time to toss your preconceived notions of eyeliner and mascara aside and make way for a seriously graphic gaze. At Jonathan Saunders and Boss black eyeliner was replaced with a slick of azure very close to the lash line and while Boss opted for a super-neat cat eye, Saunders ringed the entire eye with slightly smudged liner. Eccentricity is nothing new to Mary Katrantzou so it’s hardly surprising that her offering posed an entirely unique take on blue beauty; ocean-blue, spidery lashes adorned the centre portion of the model’s eye for a vivid but entirely wearable version of the Twiggy lash.

雖然從2016年春夏季T臺秀的情況來看，人們對眼影可以做出更多創新性的嘗試。但是也是時候把諸位在眼線膏和睫毛膏方面先入爲主的的想法扔在一邊了，需要重新思考其真正的意義和用途。在喬納森•桑德爾斯和鉑斯的設計中，黑色眼線被一條非常貼近眼線的天藍色細線所替代。桑德爾斯在整個眼睛周圍都畫上了有淡淡暈染效果的眼線，而鉑斯則選擇了用特別整齊的眼線來畫出貓眼的效果。瑪麗•卡特蘭佐的古怪風格對大家來說已不是什麼新鮮事，所以她對藍色有着完全不同的審美也不足爲奇。爲了眼妝的生動效果，她用海洋藍和細長的睫毛來裝飾模特眼睛的中心部分，而不是像特薇吉那樣全部都粘上假睫毛。

The lover of no-make-up make-up need not fear though as this is a trend that works best with fresh skin and a barely-there base; simply opt for a metallic cream shadow and adopt a less is more approach to liner and mascara for a more subtle look. But for those of you who are keen to experiment it’s quite literally blue sky thinking.

但是裸妝愛好者也不必擔心他們的妝容，因爲這種趨勢是最適合裸妝羣體和只打一層輕薄底妝的人的。爲了打造一個更自然的妝容，可以僅在更靠近眼線和睫毛膏的地方，塗一點點金屬色的霜狀眼影。但是對於諸位這些熱衷嘗試的人來說，這簡直就是天馬行空的思維。