時尚準媽媽懷孕時該對待自己小腹大綱

AT THE ACADEMY AWARDS earlier this month, Kerry Washington, the star of the ABC-TV series 'Scandal,' wore a lilac Jason Wu gown, tailor-made to accommodate what she playfully called her little 'accessory'-a growing baby bump.

在3月份早些時候舉行的奧斯卡金像獎頒獎典禮(Academy Awards)上，美國廣播公司(ABC)電視劇《醜聞》(Scandal)中的明星凱麗・華盛頓(Kerry Washington)穿了一條吳季剛(Jason Wu)設計的淡紫色禮服，衣服根據她日漸隆起的小腹量身定製，華盛頓戲稱大肚子是自己的小“配飾”。

These days, that's just how stylish mothers-to-be are treating their bellies when it comes to dressing: as an exciting accouterment rather than an insurmountable style obstacle. These resourceful women are mixing non-maternity pieces from surprisingly pregnancy-friendly labels such as Alexander Wang and Rick Owens with a chicer-than-ever crop of maternity brands.

如今，時尚準媽媽在穿衣服時就是這樣對待自己的小腹的：把它當成是有趣的裝飾，而不是阻礙時尚的麻煩。這些聰明的準媽媽們把亞歷山大・王(Alexander Wang)和瑞克・歐文斯(Rick Owens)等特別照顧孕婦需求品牌的非孕婦單品和孕婦裝品牌的時髦剪裁進行混搭。

'When you're pregnant, your body is changing every day. The Fashion just has to be able to evolve to fit that,' said Ms. Washington. In addition to custom-designed gowns from Thakoon and Balenciaga, the actress has worn maternity pieces, like a silk charmeuse tuxedo from the very un-maternity maternity label Hatch, as well as designer dresses she buys in large sizes and alters, like an A-line shift by Tory Burch and a cerulean Calvin Klein Collection cocktail number with a peek-a-boo shoulder. 'Pregnant or not, your tailor is your best friend,' said Erin Walsh, Ms. Washington's stylist, who added that the key to a flattering alteration (besides accommodating a growing midsection) is to accentuate the finer points of one's figure-whether wrists, cleavage or legs.

華盛頓說：“懷孕的時候，你的身體每天都在變化。時尚必須能夠不斷演變來適應這種變化。”除了塔庫恩(Thakoon)和巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的定製禮服，她還穿孕婦裝，比如非常不像孕婦裝的孕婦裝品牌Hatch的一套查米尤縐緞燕尾服，她還會買大號的名牌裙子來修改，比如Tory Burch的一條寬鬆連身裙和 Calvin Klein Collection的一件露肩天藍色雞尾酒會裝。華盛頓的造型師埃琳・沃爾什(Erin Walsh)說：“無論是否懷孕，你的裁縫師都是你最好的朋友。”她還說，除了適合越來越大的肚子，改出好衣服的關鍵在於突出身體的細節――比如手腕、乳溝或者小腿。

In the age of the Best-Dressed Baby Bump, it's hard to fathom that Lucille Ball caused a scandal when she appeared pregnant on 'I Love Lucy,' in 1952, or that Grace Kelly used her Hermès bag to shield her growing body from the press. 'Things have changed so much over the last few decades,' said Violet Gaynor, a senior fashion editor at and co-founder of the Glow, a website that features at-home interviews with chic mothers like actress Jemima Kirke and Manhattan boutique owner Maryam Nassir Zadeh. Ms. Gaynor and her co-founder, Kelly Stuart, will be releasing the Glow's first book in April. 'There's so much more of a celebration about being pregnant,' she added, 'and more of a focus on stylish motherhood.' Websites like the Glow offer mothers plenty of fashion inspiration-often with shoppable links.

在比拼最佳孕婦着裝的年代，很難想像1952年露西爾・鮑爾(Lucille Ball)懷着身孕出現在《我愛露西》(I Love Lucy)中會引發醜聞，也很難理解格蕾斯・凱麗(Grace Kelly)會在媒體面前用她的愛馬仕(Herms)手袋遮住日漸隆起的肚子。高級時尚編輯及Glow網站聯合創始人維奧萊特・蓋納(Violet Gaynor)說：“這幾十年來變化太大了。”Glow上有很多對時尚媽媽所作的家庭採訪，比如演員傑米瑪・科克(Jemima Kirke)和曼哈頓精品店店主瑪麗亞姆・納西爾・扎德(Maryam Nassir Zadeh)。蓋納和她的聯合創始人凱麗・斯圖爾特(Kelly Stuart)將會在4月發佈Glow的第一本書。她說：“現在懷孕更多是一種慶祝，更多的關注點在時尚備孕。”Glow這樣的網站會爲孕婦提供大量時尚靈感――通常都會有購物鏈接。

As the average age of first-time mothers continues to climb and the number of women having children in their 30s and 40s rises, ladies with a well-developed sense of fashion see no reason to sacrifice personal style when they're expecting. And the fashion industry is responding.

隨着首次懷孕女性的平均年齡持續增大，三四十歲懷孕女性的人數越來越多，有着成熟時尚感的女性認爲懷孕時沒有理由犧牲掉個人着裝風格。時尚行業也在做出迴應。

'There is this group of women who have more disposable income to spend. They have their own identity and style and are really looking to preserve that,' said Courtney Klein, a former partner at a Manhattan digital agency who recently launched Storq, a collection of layerable, curve-hugging basics designed to fit into women's existing wardrobes-not replace them altogether. Storq's stretchy modal pieces-skirt, dress, leggings, tank top-can be purchased separately, or as a complete set for $195, on the brand's website. Ms. Klein, who is 28 weeks pregnant herself, has already shipped orders to 30 states.

曼哈頓某數字廣告公司前合夥人考特妮・克萊恩(Courtney Klein)說：“有一羣女性有用不完的可支配收入。她們有自己的身份和風格，而且非常希望能保持。”克萊恩最近推出了可分層穿的緊身基本款服裝品牌Storq，這些衣服旨在融入女性現有的衣櫥，而非取代所有的衣服。在Storq的網站上，彈性莫代爾單品――半身裙、連身裙、打底褲、背心――可以分開購買，也可以以195美元的價格購買整套。克萊恩自己已懷孕28周，公司的訂單已經發往了30個州。

Ms. Klein is just one of the entrepreneurs helping to rewrite the script for pregnancy dressing. Ariane Goldman, who founded the label Hatch in 2011, said the word 'maternity' is taboo in her office. 'I think all of us just associate 'maternity' with disposable pieces that will get you through this icky stage and that you'll never want to wear again,' said Ms. Goldman. Instead, Hatch aims to provide pieces-at prices similar to what one may pay at, say, A Pea in the Pod, where many dresses hover around the $200 mark-that will live on in a woman's wardrobe after pregnancy. The appeal of Hatch's silky jumpsuits, gaberdine trenches and flowing dresses is apparent, whether a customer is pregnant or not.

克萊恩僅僅是衆多幫助重組孕婦裝行業格局的創業家中的一位而已。2011年創立Hatch品牌的阿里亞納・戈德曼(Ariane Goldman)說，“懷孕”這個詞在她的辦公室是禁忌。戈德曼說：“我覺得大家都把‘懷孕’和一次性衣服聯繫起來了，認爲這些衣服只是幫你度過這個難熬的階段，然後就再也不會穿了。”而Hatch則是爲女性提供能在孕期結束後繼續留在衣櫥裏的衣服，其價格和孕婦裝品牌A Pea in the Pod差不多，該品牌的很多衣服都在200美元左右。無論懷孕與否，Hatch真絲連體衣、華達呢風衣和飄逸長裙的吸引力都是顯而易見的。

Ms. Gaynor said the fashionable mothers she has featured on the Glow taught her the value of an 'anything goes' approach. 'They like to find what works for them and just go with it,' she said, 'even if it's not a traditional approach to maternity.' For Ms. Gaynor, whose daughter was born last summer, that meant not only investing in the ubiquitous J. Brand maternity jeans, but resurrecting favorite pieces from her closet, like a generously cut Emilio Pucci dress that once belonged to her grandmother. Another of her favorite looks was a long white Alexander Wang slip dress, which she bought a few sizes too big, that wraps under the bust.

蓋納說，Glow上的時尚準媽媽們讓她知道了“隨意搭”穿衣風格的價值。於去年夏天生下女兒的她說：“她們喜歡研究自己穿什麼好，然後就會那樣穿，即使那並不是傳統的孕婦着裝。”對蓋納來說，這意味着不光要買普適的J. Brand孕婦牛仔褲，還要從衣櫥裏挖出自己最喜歡的衣服，比如曾經屬於祖母的一條剪裁寬鬆的璞琪(Emilio Pucci)連身裙。她最喜歡的裝扮還有一條亞歷山大・王的裹胸吊帶裙，這條裙子她買大好幾個尺碼。

'There's something reassuring about still being able to shop in a regular store when you're pregnant,' said Meredith Melling, who recently left her longtime post as a Vogue editor to co-found the fashion consultancy firm La Marque. Ms. Melling, whose second child is due this weekend, said she has relied on American Apparel unitards and oversize cardigans, as well as items from Zara, which she buys big and has tailored to fit her growing body. For special events, Ms. Melling swears by vintage clothing. Unlike with current-season wares, she said, there are no preconceptions about styling or fit and little risk of another (un-pregnant) woman appearing in the same dress. However, for the very special occasion of the La Marque launch in January, Ms. Melling wore a current Marc Jacobs dress with a drop-waist-a universally flattering silhouette for party-going pregnant gals. 'It was a way to feel a bit more elevated, like my former fashion self,' she said.

梅雷迪思・梅林(Meredith Melling)最近剛辭掉做了很久的《時尚》(Vogue)編輯工作，與他人合夥創立了時尚諮詢公司La Marque。她說：“懷孕的時候還能在普通商店裏買衣服，給人一種很安心的感覺。”第二個孩子剛剛出生的梅林說，她喜歡American Apparel的連體緊身衣和大號開衫，還有Zara的單品，她會買大號，然後進行修改，以適應自己的體型變化。參加特殊活動時，梅林很信賴復古服裝。她說，和當季時裝不同，復古風格沒有款式或合身的先入之見，而且與其他（未懷孕）女士穿同一條裙子的可能性也不大。不過，在1月份La Marque成立的特殊場合，梅林穿了一條當季的馬克・雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)低腰裙――這種款式對參加派對的孕婦來說很討喜。她說：“這樣會讓自己覺得更高貴些，就像以前那個時尚的自己。”

Kate Davidson Hudson, co-founder of the luxury accessories website Editorialist, recently traveled to Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks while she was more than five months into her pregnancy. She found herself packing pieces from designers who favor boxier shapes, including a snakeskin-printed shift dress from Stella McCartney. 'There are ways to play around with sizing with contemporary and designer brands so you still feel like yourself, but don't look like a sausage squeezed into a runway look,' said Ms. Davidson Hudson, adding that it's better to wear more fitted items as your bump grows, counterintuitive as it may seem. 'You almost need something body-con when you get to seven or eight months, to define the belly,' she said. A body-skimming knit dress from the designer Rick Owens that had languished in her closet for seasons proved pivotal during her first pregnancy, in 2011. In addition to his edgy aesthetic and penchant for leather, Mr. Owens is known for his neutral color palette and use of forgiving fabrics.

奢侈配飾網站Editorialist聯合創始人凱特・戴維德森・赫德森(Kate Davidson Hudson)最近懷着五個多月的身孕去米蘭和巴黎參加時裝週。她發現自己選擇了偏愛箱型款式的設計師的作品，包括斯特拉・麥卡特尼(Stella McCartney)的一條蛇皮圖案寬鬆直筒連衣裙。她說：“有很多方式可以對當代和設計師品牌的東西進行發揮，從而讓自己感到自信，但不要弄得像一根香腸塞進T臺時裝裏一樣。”她說隨着肚子越來越大，穿衣服最好越來越合身，這點看似違背常理。她說：“到了七八個月的時候差不多就需要貼身的衣服了，好讓肚子的輪廓顯現出來。”她有一件設計師瑞克・歐文斯設計的修身針織連衣裙，已經閒置在衣櫥好幾年了。結果這條裙子在她2011年第一次懷孕期間起到了關鍵作用。除了敏銳的審美和對真皮的偏愛，歐文斯還以中性色系和常用寬鬆面料而聞名。

Laure Heriard Dubreuil, founding partner of the Miami boutique the Webster, is also a fan of Mr. Owens, as well as Azzedine Alaïa bodysuits, for expecting moms. 'I learned that it's better to wear tighter clothes,' said Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, citing a particularly ill-advised oversize gown that made her feel frumpy at a formal event. 'Most of [Owens's] pants or skirts have elastic bands, so you can wear them low-waist,' added Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, whose son was born in January. 'The drop crotch of his pants also works well, so you have a cool look.'

邁阿密Webster精品店創始合夥人勞雷・埃里亞爾・迪布勒伊(Laure Heriard Dubreuil)也是歐文斯的粉絲，她也很喜歡阿瑟丁・阿拉亞(Azzedine Alaia)的緊身衣。她說：“我聽說最好是穿緊一點的衣服。”她提到有一次參加正式活動時，聽了別人糟糕的建議穿了一件大號裙子，最後讓自己覺得很上不了檯面。她說：“歐文斯大多數的褲子或裙子都有鬆緊帶，所以可以低腰穿。低襠剪裁的褲子也很不錯，會顯得很酷。” 埃里亞爾・迪布勒伊1月份生了一個兒子。

Slip dresses are another of Ms. Heriard Dubreuil's go-tos. After falling in love with a long bias-cut version she found at C. Madeleine's, a vintage store in Miami, she had her tailor reproduce it in several other colors. She wore the original (and her copies) under a Balenciaga leather jacket or long cardigan from Acne. 'They are perfect when you're pregnant, because your cleavage looks beautiful and you show your belly,' she said.

吊帶裙也是埃里亞爾・迪布勒伊喜歡的裝扮。她在邁阿密古着店C. Madeleine's發現了一條斜線剪裁的吊帶長裙後非常喜歡，於是讓自己的裁縫用好幾種顏色仿製了同款。她裏面穿着這條裙子（以及仿製的那幾條），外面穿巴黎世家的皮夾克或者Acne的長羊毛開衫。她說：“懷孕的時候這樣穿很完美，因爲你的乳溝看起來很美，而且肚子也顯出來了。”

Looking good may be directly correlated to feeling great, but so is being physically comfortable-especially in your third trimester. Nadiyah Bradshaw-Spencer-a production director for the Manhattan clothing label Suno-is due this month with her first baby. She's long since abandoned her suede Nicholas Kirkwood stilettos in favor of ankle boots from the same designer with a small, foot-friendly block heel. Actress Ms. Washington appreciates comfort as well. 'It's been fun to explore how to fuse comfort and fashion in a different way,' she said. 'That's why tailoring is so important.'

穿着漂亮可能會讓自己感覺很好，但身體的舒服也同樣重要――尤其是在最後三個月的時候。曼哈頓時裝品牌Suno生產總監納迪婭・布拉德肖－斯賓塞(Nadiyah Bradshaw-Spencer)第一個孩子的預產期是三月份。她早就拋棄了那雙小山羊皮的Nicholas Kirkwood細高跟鞋，改穿同樣品牌但穿起來更舒服的粗跟及踝靴。演員華盛頓也很注重舒適度。她說：“探索將舒適和時尚結合起來的不同方式很好玩，這就是爲何剪裁如此重要。”

Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, of the Webster, made concessions to comfort during pregnancy too, swapping her heels for sneakers from Pierre Hardy, and ditching her heavy bags for Olympia Le Tan clutches. As she prepared recently to travel to Paris for Fashion Week with her son, the new mother said she was packing those sneakers, but that the Olympia Le Tan clutches were staying at home. 'Unfortunately,' said Ms. Heriard Dubreuil, 'they can't fit the diapers.'

Webster的埃里亞爾・迪布勒伊在懷孕期間也對舒適做出了妥協，她把高跟鞋換成了皮埃爾・哈迪(Pierre Hardy)的球鞋，沉甸甸的大包也換成了Olympia Le Tan小手包。最近準備帶兒子參加巴黎時尚週時，這位新媽媽說她帶上了那些球鞋，但把Olympia Le Tan手包留在了家裏。她說：“可惜這些手包裝不下尿布。