我家大門常打開 品味中國的老字號
Chinese tourists cross the world to seek out brands with a bit of historical pedigree, from Harrods to House of Fraser, the Scottish department store chain recently bought by a Chinese millionaire.
中國遊客經常走出國門尋找帶有一點歷史底蘊的品牌，從哈羅茲(Harrods)到福萊莎百貨(House of Fraser)，都能看到他們的身影。後者是蘇格蘭一家百貨連鎖公司，最近剛被中國的一位富翁所收購。But the country also has a few long-standing brands of its own. Perhaps not surprisingly-it's rarely able to resist the urge to catalog things and stamp them with rubber stamps-China's government keeps them on a careful list, even sending inspection teams from the Ministry of Commerce to check out potential future candidates.
但中國自己也有一些歷史悠久的品牌。中國政府列出了一份這些品牌的名單，甚至從商務部派出了調研組去確認那些未來可能入圍的品牌。人們總是很難抵擋將這些事物分類並予以認證的誘惑，因此中國政府這麼做也許不會讓人感到吃驚。According to the ministry's rules (in Chinese) contenders must have a pedigree that dates back to at least 1956, historical and cultural value, a good reputation and, of course, Chinese characteristics.
根據商務部的規定，這些品牌的歷史必須至少可以追溯到1956年，具有歷史和文化價值，有良好聲譽，當然還要具有中國特色。
Those that make the grade are granted an official seal of approval on their status as Lao Zihao, or 'time-honored brands.' (Lao means old.) Local governments have their own parallel certification schemes.
那些達到標準的品牌將獲得官方的“老字號”認證。地方政府也有自己的地方老字號認證計劃。There are upwards of 10,000 Lao Zihao nationally, with 700 recognized by the central government, said Zhou Huaishan, CEO of the China Time-Honored Brands Network, a website that attempts to track all such brands. It is hard to be certain which is the lao-est, but Mr. Zhou thinks Dongyangjiang Wine, a liquor company from Zhejiang province, could be a strong contender. The company has been manning the stills since the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279).
中華老字號網(China Time-Honored Brands Network)首席執行長周淮山稱，中國全國共有超過10,000個老字號，其中700個老字號獲得中央認證。中華老字號網試圖收錄所有老字號品牌。很難確定哪一個品牌最古老，但周淮山認爲，來自浙江省的東陽江黃酒算是個強有力的競爭者。這種蒸餾酒的歷史可以追溯到南宋時期（1127-1279年）。After China's long civil war ended with a Communist victory in 1949, the state moved in to 'protect' (i.e. nationalize) these venerable brands, said Mr. Zhou, and most of them remain state-owned. There is no reason why they have to be, though.
周淮山稱，1949年曠日持久的內戰結束後，中國共產黨取得了勝利，國家開始“保護”（即國有化）這些珍貴的品牌，現在它們中的多數仍屬於國有。雖然將老字號國有化並沒有什麼必需的理由。Even Chinese E-Commerce giant Alibaba Group Holding Ltd., now gearing up for a stock exchange listing in the U.S., could become a Lao Zihao one day, Mr. Zhou said - though it would presumably need an exemption from the rule that requires a pre-1956 pedigree.
周淮山說，甚至中國電商巨頭阿里巴巴集團(Alibaba Group Holding Ltd.)有一天也可能會成爲一個老字號，不過可以追溯到1956年以前這一條規定需要破個例。阿里巴巴目前正準備到美國上市。'You can really look at the Lao Zihao as a symbol of China,' said Mr. Zhou. When high-ranking officials entertain foreign guests, they often choose Lao Zihao products as gifts, he said. That may explain why President Xi Jinping picked the otherwise undistinguished Qing-Feng Dumplings for a rare public appearance at the end of last year.
周淮山說，你的確可以把老字號看成是中國的一個象徵。他說，高級官員款待外國客人時經常選擇老字號產品作爲禮物。這或許也可以解釋爲何國家主席習近平去年年底進行親民秀時選擇了不怎麼起眼的慶豐包子鋪。But if you're just dipping your toes into the world of Lao Zihao first the time, where should you start? CRT takes readers on a tour of some Beijing favorites:
但如果你才第一次涉足“老字號”的世界，應當從哪裏開始？“中國實時報”欄目將帶讀者們一覽北京一些最受歡迎的老字號。Bianyifang
便宜坊CRT began its tour with dinner at this Peking duck restaurant, which opened its doors in 1416, when the Forbidden City was still under construction. Apart from such storied history, Bianyifang's selling point is that its duck is cooked in a closed oven and-unlike ordinary roast ducks-never touches a naked flame. This is supposedly cleaner, but it's a shame to miss out on that char-grilled edge that can make Peking duck such a treat.
“中國實時報”欄目此行從這家北京烤鴨店的大餐開始。這家餐廳1416年開業，當時紫禁城都還在建造中。除了如此深厚的歷史淵源，便宜坊的賣點還在於其烤鴨是用燜爐烤制，不會接觸明火（這與普通烤鴨不同）。據稱這樣更衛生，但錯過讓北京烤鴨如此美味的那層鴨皮確實令人遺憾。On the positive side, diners at Bianyifang enjoy an exceptionally high pancake-to-duck ratio, so you'll never reach that maddening moment when you run out of wrapping. And the 198 yuan ($32) standard package, about right for two people, is a good deal compared with some of the other duck restaurants fleecing tourists in Beijing.
好的一面是，便宜坊的食客能夠享受到份量充足的薄餅，永遠不會出現沒餅可卷這種令人抓狂的時刻。相比北京其他一些欺騙遊客的烤鴨館，人民幣198元（合32美元）的標準套餐（大約適合兩個人享用）還是很不錯的。Huguosi Snacks
護國寺小吃For dessert, we checked into Huguosi, a bare-bones bakery and café that has branches throughout Beijing and is a favorite with the city's working masses. Lao Zihao run the gamut from some of Beijing's fanciest eateries to some of its most basic, and Huguosi is definitely at the latter end of the scale.
我們選擇了護國寺作爲吃點心的地方。護國寺相當於最簡單的麪包店加咖啡館，其分店遍佈北京，深受北京工薪階層歡迎。“老字號”囊括的範圍從北京一些最高檔的餐廳到最基本的小館子，而護國寺無疑屬於後者。At 3 yuan with free refills of sugar, Huguosi's babao zhou (sweet porridge with rice and beans) may provide more calories per yuan than any other dish on sale in the capital. For bigger spenders, there are, of course, other options on the menu, including noodles, dumplings and a selection of pastries.
護國寺的八寶粥價格僅爲人民幣3元，還可以免費加糖。以單位價格所能提供的熱量計算，這道小吃的性價比可能高過北京的任何其他餐點。當然，花錢更豪爽的人也有其他選擇，包括麪條、餃子和多種點心。It's hard to quibble with a place like this. Simple, authentic and very, very cheap, what you see at Huguosi is exactly what you're going to get.
這樣一個地方几乎是無可挑剔的。簡單、貨真價實而且非常非常便宜。在護國寺，你看到的是什麼，吃到的就是什麼。Beijing Hotel
北京飯店Having skimped on dessert, you can count up the change in your pocket and head out for some drinks.
既然在點心上省了錢，你就可以數數自己口袋裏的零錢去喝點東西了。But if you pick the Beijing Hotel, a century-old complex a stone's throw from Tiananmen Square, it might be best to stick to neat spirits. Sadly, you won't get far on the hotel's flat, watery cocktails.
但要是你選擇了離天安門廣場咫尺之遙、有百年曆史的北京飯店，可能最好還是直接選單純的酒精飲料。這裏供應的平淡如水的雞尾酒是不會讓你盡興的。Seventy-five yuan seems a little steep for a Tom Collins that is really just a gin and water. A 15% service charge compounds the insult. The verdict: even Lao Zihao can be lousy sometimes.
一杯其實就是杜松子酒加水的湯姆柯林斯要價人民幣75元未免有些過高。15%的服務費讓人更加肉痛。結論：就算是老字號有時也會讓人感覺很糟糕。For more on Lao Zihao, check out CRT's earlier, unforgettable experience at Beijing's Qing-Feng Dumplings.
更多有關老字號的故事，可查看“中國實時報”記者早些時候在北京慶豐包子鋪的難忘經歷。
