像安迪沃霍爾那樣重走66號公路

Much has been made of how Andy Warhol’s glam-pop approach to everyday objects and celebrities transformed the American art world, but less has been known about how a 1963 drive from New York to Los Angeles inspired the artist’s personal metamorphosis. “Before this he was called Raggedy Andy,” said Deborah Davis, author of “The Trip,” which examines Warhol’s journey. “He dressed in chinos. He was tongue-tied. He was searching for what he should paint. Then he took this trip and realized he had to package himself differently. He dressed in black. He opened the Factory. This was when he became Warhol.”

安迪·沃霍爾(Andy Warhol)描繪日常用品和名人的波普藝術作品改變了美國藝術界，太多人對此進行了分析和解讀，但鮮爲人知的是，1963年的一次從紐約到洛杉磯的公路旅行，曾經觸發這位藝術家的人生蛻變。“在此之前，他被叫做破布娃娃安迪，”黛博拉·戴維斯(Deborah Davis)說。她的著作《旅途》(The Trip)深入探究了沃霍爾的這趟行程。“他穿着絲光黃斜紋棉布的衣服，沉默寡言，尋找着繪畫的靈感。”後來他踏上這段旅程，意識到必須重新包裝自己。他開始穿黑衣。他成立了“工廠”工作室。從那時起，他才成爲“沃霍爾”。

Having never traveled cross-country herself, Ms. Davis, 63, said she recognized that she “didn’t know what the landscape looked like,” and recreated the artist’s road trip. Below are edited excerpts from a conversation with Ms. Davis.

現年63歲的戴維斯女士此前從未穿越過美國。她說，她意識到“自己不知道一路會有怎樣的風景”，於是就重走了沃霍爾的公路旅行。以下是記者與戴維斯女士經過編輯的對話節選。

Q. How did you replicate Warhol’s itinerary?

問：你怎樣複製了沃霍爾的行程安排？

A. I had an amazing gift from the Warhol museum — his receipts. He saved everything. I knew exactly where he went, what he bought, where he ate.

答：沃霍爾博物館送給我一份很棒的禮物——他的收據。他把所有票據都保留下來了。我可以確切地知道他去了哪，買了什麼，去哪吃的飯。

Why did he drive instead of fly?

他爲什麼開車而不坐飛機？

Part of him was afraid to fly even though he had flown before. There was a famous plane crash before his trip. His mother was very opposed to him flying. There was also something in the air, in the zeitgeist, that made him want to take a road trip. I can’t tell you how prevalent they were at the time, from Jack Kerouac to the TV show “Route 66,” which was filmed on location. Everywhere you looked you were being told go see the U.S.A. I think that was part of it.

他有點害怕坐飛機，雖然他以前坐過。他出發之前發生了一場著名的空難。他的母親非常反對他坐飛機。當時的社會氛圍、社會思潮中的某種東西，也促使他選擇公路旅行。我無法告訴你公路旅行在當時是多麼普遍，從傑克·凱魯亞克(Jack Kerouac)到電視劇《66號公路》(Route 66)都能看出這一點，這部劇就是在66號公路拍攝的。無論在哪，人們都建議你去看看真正的美國。我認爲這是其中的一個原因。

What was the route?

路線是什麼？

The route that we both took was to go from New York to St. Louis, where we picked up Route 66. Then we traveled through Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California.

我們兩個的路線都是從紐約到聖路易斯，從那裏駛入66號公路。然後我們穿越堪薩斯州、俄克拉荷馬州、得克薩斯州、新墨西哥州、亞利桑那州和加利福尼亞州。

What did Warhol take with him? What did you?

沃霍爾隨身帶了什麼行李？你呢？

Andy packed his brand-new movie camera. Not his art supplies, his camera. He packed about 50 magazines. And he packed his tuxedo because he knew he was going to a big event in L.A. — a retrospective of Marcel Duchamp’s work.

安迪帶了他全新的錄像機。他沒帶畫畫的東西，而是帶了錄像機。他帶了大約50本雜誌。他還裝上了禮服，因爲他已經知道自己要去洛杉磯參加一場盛大的活動——馬塞爾·杜尚(Marcel Duchamp)的作品回顧展。

When it was time for me to pack for my trip, I had very strict rules. All of the reading material had to be from 1963. I had all of the magazines that he had, McCall’s, the fan magazines. All the music had to be from 1963 so we listened to songs like “Be My Baby” and artists like the Beach Boys. I insisted that we roll down the windows so we could feel what it was like without air-conditioning. That didn’t last.

我是嚴格按照一些原則打包的。所有的閱讀材料都必須是1963年的。我打包了他當時帶的所有雜誌，比如《麥考》(McCall’s)，還有八卦雜誌。所有的音樂也必須是1963年的，所以我們路上聽的音樂包括《Be My Baby》以及“海灘男孩”(Beach Boys)的作品。我還要求搖下車窗，以便感受一下沒有空調是什麼感覺。但這沒堅持多長時間。

You write about Jack Rittenhouse’s guide to Route 66, which was the first guidebook to the highway. Did Warhol follow it? Did you?

你在書中提到了傑克·裏滕豪斯(Jack Rittenhouse)的66號公路指南，這也是第一部同類型的指南。沃霍爾是按照這本書走的嗎？你呢？

It didn’t turn up in Warhol’s artifacts so I doubt it. I thought Rittenhouse was amazing. I loved his rule of the road that says you should stop at the roadside cafes where the most trucks are parked out front because you can be certain to find a good cup of coffee.

這本書沒有出現在沃霍爾的行李中。所以我表示懷疑。我認爲裏滕豪斯很棒。我喜歡他提出的建議，比如遇到門前停了很多卡車的咖啡館，你就應該停下來，因爲這裏肯定有好咖啡。

Did you follow that rule?

你是這麼做的嗎？

Absolutely. That was how we found the Midpoint Diner [in Adrian, Tex.], where we had breakfast. Steinbeck said breakfast was the best American meal when you’re on the road. He’s absolutely right. It’s all about beginnings, a new day, a new stretch of the highway.

當然了。我們正是用這個方法才找到了Midpoint Diner（位於得克薩斯州的阿德里安），我們在那裏吃了早餐。斯坦貝克說，當你在美國旅行時，早餐會是最好的一餐。他說的太對了。一日之計在於晨，新的一天，新一段的旅程。

What surprised you?

哪些事是你沒想到的？

There were no Americans on Route 66. It was all foreigners. They’ve all come to see the quintessential America. They’re all looking for America, but Americans aren’t. I think it should be mandatory that everyone drive cross-country. Even though every city has a Starbucks and the big towns are alike, you still get those glimpses of something more authentic. You really experience America.

66號公路上沒有美國人。全是外國遊客。他們都來看原汁原味的美國。他們都在尋找美國，但美國人卻不去這麼做。我認爲每個人都必須來一次橫越之旅。雖然每個城市都有星巴克，大城市都大同小異，你仍然能夠領略到更加純正的東西。你在真正地體驗美國。

Where would you like to go again?

哪個地方你想再去一次？

Pittsburgh. It was the most amazing city. It is both polished and scarred. It has a cultural center that you get from having Carnegie this and Carnegie that. The food scene is enough to keep you fat and happy. And you have the Andy Warhol Museum. It’s an incredible combination.

匹茨堡。它是最不可思議的城市。既優雅，又飽經風霜。它又一個文化中心，有好多以卡耐基開頭的建築。那裏的飲食多脂而美味。那裏還有安迪沃霍爾博物館。這是一個令人難以置信的結合。