當西方時尚界向東方尋求靈感

Mr Porter Goes East to Find Fresh Looks

男裝購物網站Mr Porter去東方尋找新鮮造型

Limited Edition

限量版

Although spring and summer clothing is now hitting the stores, Fashion editors and buyers are looking toward the fall as they jet off to the fashion shows in London, Milan and Paris. Representatives of Mr Porter will celebrate London men’s fashion week with an unveiling of six collections featuring emerging brands previously unavailable outside Japan, in collaboration with Beams, a Japanese department store.

雖然春夏服裝正在到店，但是時尚編輯和買家們在展望秋季服裝，因爲他們開始啓程前去觀看倫敦、米蘭和巴黎的時裝秀。爲了慶祝倫敦男裝周，Mr Porter的代表們與日本百貨公司Beams合作，推出來自新興品牌的六個系列，這些品牌之前不曾在日本以外的地方銷售。

“First and foremost, we wanted to ensure that these collections had universal appeal, and having contributors from six different brands allowed us that versatility,” said Daniel Todd, a buyer at Mr Porter. “Each brand has a real point of difference, so there is something in there for everyone without having to dilute the story behind each collection. Teatora, for example, makes outstanding technical travel suits whereas orSlow has a fantastic denim offering.”

Mr Porter的採購員丹尼爾·託德(Daniel Todd)說：“最重要的是，我們想確保這些系列受到普遍歡迎，六個不同品牌的產品讓我們變得多樣化。每個品牌都有真正的獨特之處，所以每個人都能找到自己喜歡的，不必淡化每個系列背後的故事。比如，Teatora生產出色的有技術含量的旅行裝，orSlow生產很棒的牛仔褲。”

London Meets Fukui

倫敦遇見福井

Specs

專業人員

In Fukui, a coastal city in western Japan, there is a centuries-old community of optical artisans called Shokunin who have been making eyewear, using local titanium and acetate, through a 200-step process. Rohan Dhir, the founder of the London-based online retailer Archibald Optics, is collaborating with the artisans to create slightly retro eyeglasses and shades that bring together British design and Japanese know-how.

在日本西部沿海城市福井，有一個有幾百年歷史的眼鏡手工藝人（手工藝人在日本被稱爲職人[Shokunin]——譯註）羣體。他們採用當地產的鈦和醋酸鹽，經過200道工序製作眼鏡。倫敦在線零售商Archibald Optics的創始人羅恩·迪爾(Rohan Dhir)正在與這些手工藝人合作，製造略微復古的眼鏡和墨鏡，把英國的設計與日本的技術結合起來。

It’s Back!

迴歸了！

Consider

考慮一下吧

Who would have thought that the fanny pack, long considered an accessory of the clueless tourist, would find its way to the spring 2016 men’s collections? Designers including Tomas Maier and Lemaire have new interpretations of this onetime fashion “don’t.” Saturdays, a brand with an emphasis on surf wear, has introduced a fanny pack in collaboration with the Japanese accessories company Porter-Yoshida. (To put distance between the fanny pack’s fashionable present and its unstylish past, most brands now call it a “waist bag.”) “The waist bag is a perfect travel companion for the man on the run,” said Morgan Collett, a Saturdays founder.

長期以來，腰包被認爲是無知遊客的配飾，誰能想到它會進入2016年的春季男裝系列？托馬斯·梅爾(Tomas Maier)和勒邁爾(Lemaire)等設計師對這個曾經的時尚“禁品”進行了新的詮釋。主要做衝浪服裝的Saturdays與日本配飾公司 Porter-Yoshida合作推出一款腰包（爲了把現在時尚的新設計和過去不時尚的設計區別開來，大部分品牌不把腰包稱爲fanny pack，而是稱爲waist bag）。Saturdays的創始人摩根·科利特(Morgan Collett)說：“對奔忙的男人來說，腰包是完美的旅行伴侶。”

O.K., maybe we’ll consider it.

好吧，我們也許會考慮它的。

A Fashion Alliance

時裝公司的聯盟

Collaboration

合作

Closed, a family-run German fashion brand founded in 1978 that is known for its denim, has hired Hirofumi Kurino, a founder of the Japanese company United Arrows, to produce two styles of men’s chinos. “Closed and United Arrows have the same positive vibration and seriousness to be a human-oriented company,” said Mr. Kurino (shown). “The high-level production skill and the rich archive from Closed, together with the sincerity of Japanese fabric and the smart United Arrows taste — that makes a good chemistry.”

創立於1978年的德國家族時裝品牌Closed以牛仔褲聞名，它聘請日本時裝公司United Arrows的創始人慄野博文(Hirofumi Kurino)生產兩種風格的男士牛仔褲。慄野博文（如圖）說：“Closed和United Arrows具有相同的樂觀精神和認真態度，都是以人爲本的公司。Closed高水平的生產技術和豐富的歷史資料，加上日本面料的真誠和United Arrows的時尚品味，會產生很好的化學反應。”

A Style Assist From Abroad

來自國外的時尚助手

Men’s Style Reads

男裝時尚讀物

“In the twenty-first century, it is now conventional wisdom that the Japanese ‘do Americana better than Americans,’” W. David Marx writes in his new book, “Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style.”

W·大衛·馬克斯(W. David Marx)在他的新書《Ametora：日本如何拯救了美國時尚》(Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style)中寫道：“在21世紀，大家公認，日本人‘比美國人更擅長創造美國風情’。”

With its affectionate takes on classic men’s wear, from bluejeans to Oxford shirts, Japan’s fashion industry has had a longstanding relationship withAmerican style. In a step-by-step account, Mr. Marx traces the history of this cross-cultural sartorial phenomenon, from the Brooks Brothers-influenced “Ivy League” look introduced by the fashion magnate Kensuke Ishizu in 1959 all the way up to Tokyo’s neo-traditionalist designers of recent years.

日本時裝業一直厚愛經典男裝，比如藍色牛仔褲和牛津布襯衫，所以與美國風尚保持着長久的關係。馬克斯一步一步地追溯這種跨文化製衣現象的歷史，從1959年時裝巨頭石津健介(Kensuke Ishizu)引入受Brooks Brothers影響的“常春藤盟校”造型一直到近些年東京的新傳統主義設計師。