[娛樂時尚] Chanel,Now and Then 香奈兒的現在與未來

翻譯:譯言網

雖然面臨全球經濟衰退，但你依然能看到生生不息的Chanel，“我們依然非常賺錢，”Karl Lagerfeld堅定地說，他犀利的目光從墨鏡後透射出來，好像這個事實就像埃菲爾鐵塔一樣不可動搖。

Chanel, Now and Then

Yesterday around 5:30 p.m., I popped in to see Karl Lagerfeld. The studio was moderately crowded: one or two editors parked at one end of Mr. Lagerfeld’s big desk and several Chanel executives at the other. Models—Freja, Snejana and a new young woman who announced that she was from Omaha, Nebraska—were in the second room getting organized for their fittings. The mood of the collection, which will be presented tonight around sunset in the Grand Palais, is somber and romantic, with black lace and gold, and short hemlines with a long panel sometimes at the back. Long, according to Mr. Lagerfeld, looks old.
昨天下午5點半,我突然看見Karl Lagerfeld。整個工作室裏擠滿了人，一兩個編輯倚靠在見Karl Lagerfeld大書桌的一端，而Chanel的高層們在桌子的另一邊。模特Freja、Snejana以及一個來自Nebraska洲Omaha的年輕女郎在第二間房間裏整理東西。整場秀將在今晚日落時分的巴黎大皇宮發佈。據Karl Lagerfeld透露，陰鬱而浪漫的風情，金色與黑色的蕾絲，精心鑲嵌的裙襬也許將會再次出現，此時的Karl Lagerfeld，多少顯得有些蒼老。

There may be a recession but the last place on earth you’d notice it is at Chanel. “We make a lot of money,” said Mr. Lagerfeld, squinting behind his dark glasses, as if this fact were as plain as the Eiffel Tower. He is sometimes in a mood to talk about Coco Chanel, whose life and capacity for survival never seem to bore him, and last night was such a time. He recently published (with Steidl) a book of photographs by Douglas Kirkland called “Mademoiselle: Coco Chanel Summer 62.” In his text, he observes how Kirkland’s pictures in the house and on the Rue Cambon remove “from her image all its evils and the bitchy side popular imagination has attached to her persona.” The summer of 62 was, in a way, he wrote, “her last summer as the queen of fashion. Jeans and miniskirts were on their way to invade the world. Hating them and letting people know publicly how much she loathed the fashions to come she put herself instantly in the position of the has-been oracle of style and fashion.” He says 40,000 copies of the book have been sold.
雖然面臨全球經濟衰退，但你依然能看到生生不息的Chanel，“我們依然非常賺錢，”Karl Lagerfeld堅定地說，他犀利的目光從墨鏡後透射出來，好像這個事實就像埃菲爾鐵塔一樣不可動搖。在談到關於Chanel的問題時，Karl Lagerfeld是帶有自己強烈的感情的，他的整個生命與能力從來都未曾困擾過他，昨晚的此時他還在工作。他最近根據Douglas Kirkland的攝影集《法國小姐：Coco Chanel62歲的夏天》出版了一本新書，在書中，Karl Lagerfeld仔細研究了保留在康朋街Coco Chanel舊居里的Kirkland作品，客觀地展現了時髦外表下Coco Chanel本人的刻薄、風流。在這本書中，Karl Lagerfeld寫到：“在這位時尚女王的生命中的最後一個夏天，牛仔褲與超短裙席捲全球，Coco Chanel討厭這些東西，而這也使得這位曾經創造的流行與時尚的女王在那個時代遭到了前所未有的冷遇。”據Karl Lagerfeld稱，這本書已經發售了4萬冊。

Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
以下是Valerio Mezzanotti在《紐約時報》上對Chanel的報道

A piece from the Chanel haute couture collection in Paris.I asked Mr. Lagerfeld about the new collection, about staying current, and about those blog reports that he would leave Chanel and be replaced by Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. Mr. Lagerfeld said to forget about it. He was going to die with his boots on. He also mentioned that Alain Wertheimer, whose family owns Chanel, said he would sell the house when the designer leaves. This might not be the case, Mr. Lagerfeld said, but it was a nice thing to be told.　　
我就Chanel 09-10秋冬高級定製的趨勢，以及一些Blog作者爆料他將離開Chanel，並由Lanvin的設計師Alber Elbaz接任的傳聞採訪了Karl Lagerfeld，他說，請忘記這些傳聞吧，他將爲Chanel工作到生命的盡頭，他也提到了Chanel的持有人Alain Wertheimer家族將在設計師離開之後賣掉Chanel。也許這種情況並不會真的發生，但Karl Lagerfeld說這未必不是一件好事。

Keke View：創始人Gabrielle Chanel香奈爾於1913年在法國巴黎創立香奈爾，香奈爾的產品種類繁多，有服裝、珠寶飾品、配件、化妝品、香水，每一種產品都聞名遐邇，特別是她的香水與時裝。
　　香奈爾(CHANEL)是一個有80多年經歷的著名品牌,香奈爾時裝永遠有着高雅、簡潔、精美的風格,她善於突破傳統,早40年代就成功地將“五花大綁”的女裝推向簡單、舒適,這也許就是最早的現代休閒服。