健康大誤區:洗臉別洗太乾淨大綱

Washing your face seems pretty simple, yet dermatologists and beauty companies think there's room for improvement.

洗臉看起來特別簡單，但皮膚科醫生和化妝品公司卻認爲，它還有改進提高的空間。

Easy does it is the message experts have for consumers, as a new generation of facial cleansers promises mild formulas that won't dry out the skin. New devices offer deep-clean claims but with a lighter touch. Some doctors even say that people with good skin should wash their face just once a day -- at night.

隨着新一代潔面產品問世，許諾其溫和配方不會使皮膚變幹，專家們向消費者傳遞出這樣的信息：潔面彆着急，需要放輕鬆。新產品宣稱能夠提供深度清潔，而且對皮膚的觸碰也更爲柔和。有些醫生甚至稱，皮膚好的人每天只應洗一次臉──在晚上洗。

It's a tough sell for consumers familiar with strong formulas that can make skin feel tight and squeaky clean. Many people take that feeling as a sign of effectiveness, when actually it is a signal of overdrying or damage.

這個說法很難讓那些熟悉強力配方的消費者接受，這類配方能使皮膚感到緊繃和異常潔淨。很多人認爲這種感覺是產品效果好的表現，但實際上它是皮膚過幹或受損的信號。

And most people still assume that any skin problem -- whether dull skin, acne or age spots -- can be solved by scrubbing a bit harder. 'They think, 'All I need to do is clean it more thoroughly, more vigorously.' That's everyone's answer,' says Susan Taylor, medical director at Society Hill Dermatology in Philadelphia, and a spokesperson for Johnson & Johnson, makers of Neutrogena and Clean & Clear skin-care lines.

大多數人仍認爲任何皮膚問題─不論是暗沉肌膚、痤瘡或老年斑──都能通過多用點兒力搓洗來解決。費城(Philadelphia) 索賽蒂希爾皮膚病醫院(Society Hill Dermatology)醫療總監、強生公司(Johnson & Johnson)發言人、露得清(Neutrogena)及可伶可俐(Clean & Clear)護膚系列製造商蘇珊?泰勒(Susan Taylor)說：“他們認爲‘我唯一需要做的就是更徹底、更用力地清潔它。’那是每個人的答案。”

Most cleansing products have a surfactant, a chemical or natural compound that helps break through the surface tension of the skin. The cleanser absorbs dirt and oil and removes them during rinsing, according to Menas Kizoulis, scientific engagement leader on Johnson & Johnson Consumer Cos.' R&D team.

強生公司消費部研發組科研參與負責人米那斯?伊佐利斯(Menas Kizoulis)說，大多數清潔產品都含有一種表面活性劑，它是一種有助於打破皮膚表面張力的化學或天然合成物。清潔用品會在漂洗過程中吸收並消除污垢和油脂。

While removing dirt and oil, the surfactant interacts with the stratum corneum, the skin's outermost layer and protective barrier -- and that is where problems begin. The surfactant can remove the good oils skin produces, resulting in overdrying, Mr. Kizoulis says. And it also can remain in the stratum corneum, exacerbating irritation.

在祛除污垢與油脂時，表面活性劑會與角質層發生反應。角質層是皮膚的最外層，也是它的防護屏障──而這正是問題的根源。伊佐利斯稱，表面活性劑會祛除皮膚產生的有益油脂，導致皮膚過幹。而且它還會遺留在角質層中，加劇對膚質的刺激。

Stinging, burning and irritation are 'actually a sign of harmful stripping of the skin,' says Patricia Farris, a Metairie, La.-based dermatologist and a fellow at the American Academy of Dermatology. A compromised skin barrier also makes a person more susceptible to infection and environmental harms, such as pollution. 'Feeling squeaky clean -- we don't want to go there. It's too aggressive,' says Dr. Farris.

美國皮膚病學會(American Academy of Dermatology)會員、路易斯安那州梅泰裏市(Metairie, La.)皮膚病學家帕特麗夏?法里斯(Patricia Farris)稱，刺痛感、灼燒感和紅腫“實際上都是皮膚遭到有害剝離的跡象”。皮膚保護層受損還會使人更容易感染，遭到污染之類的環境侵害。法里斯博士說：“感覺異常潔淨──我們不想幹淨成那樣兒。那太過激了。”

Stephanie Samuel, a 28-year-old attorney in Chicago, told her dermatologist, 'I get the squeaky clean feeling.' To which the doctor responded, 'No! No squeaky!' Ms. Samuel now uses a gentle cleanser in the morning and an exfoliating cleanser in the evening.

芝加哥28歲的律師斯蒂芬妮?塞繆爾(Stephanie Samuel)告訴她的皮膚科醫生說：“我就覺得自己特別乾淨。”她的醫生對此迴應道：“不！不要特別乾淨！”如今，塞繆爾白天使用的是一種溫和潔面乳，晚上使用的是一種去角質潔膚露。

Facial cleansing has been a growth opportunity for the skin-care industry in recent years, with sales of cleansing liquids, creams, bars and wipes topping $1.8 billion last year, up nearly 4% from the prior year and more than 7% from 2010, according to Euromonitor International.

根據歐睿國際(Euromonitor International)的數據，近些年來，潔面已成爲護膚品行業的一個增長點。去年，清洗液、潔膚霜、清潔皁和溼巾的銷售額高達18億美元，比前年增長近4%，較2010年增長超過7%。

When the founders of Clarisonic set out to create their first face-cleansing device, there weren't many supporters. 'Cleansing is the boring step. People don't like to do it,' one dermatologist told Robb Akridge, a co-founder of Clarisonic, a unit of L'Oreal, and the brand's global general manager. Another dermatologist gave Dr. Akridge this mandate, he recalls: 'You have to make cleansing sexy.'

當科萊麗 (Clarisonic)的創始人着手打造他們首個潔面儀時，當時的支持者並不多。一位皮膚科醫生告訴科萊麗──現在是歐萊雅旗下公司──聯合創始人之一、該品牌全球總經理羅伯?阿克瑞芝(Robb Akridge)說：“清潔是特別無聊的事情，人們都不喜歡做。”另一名皮膚科醫生也給了阿克瑞芝一項任務，他回憶說：“你必須得讓清洗這事兒變得有意思。”

The resulting product, a motorized oscillating brush, has renewed consumer interest in the cleansing category, many dermatologists say. The bristles move rapidly back and forth by about a millimeter, which 'wiggles' the dirt out of the pores, Dr. Akridge says.

許多皮膚病醫師稱，針對這個目標生產出來的產品──一種電動振動刷──重建了消費者對潔面的興趣。阿克瑞芝博士說，這些刷毛一毫米一毫米地來回迅速移動，就把污垢從毛細孔中“揪”出來了。

It takes only a light touch to use the device. But Clarisonic knew some people would 'want to push hard, like they are scrubbing the floor,' Dr. Akridge said. So it added a stopgap measure: When too much pressure is used, the motor keeps running but the bristles stop moving.

阿克瑞芝博士還稱，在使用這款潔面儀時，只需輕輕觸碰臉部即可。但科萊麗料到有些人會“想要使勁按壓，就像他們在擦地板一樣。”所以它增用了一個權宜之計：當使用者用力過大時，該儀器還會繼續運轉，但刷毛卻停下來不動了。

Another source of growth is pre-moistened facial towelettes, or wipes. Ido Leffler, co-founder of Yes to Inc., a line of natural skin-care products, says consumers like the convenience, whether using them at the gym or for a quick cleanse at night. Friends tell him they keep wipes on their bedside table. 'They get home after a little bit of a big night, a little bit tired and little bit drunk, and remove their makeup using the towelette,' Mr. Leffler said. Amy Hart, Yes to product development manager, says the towelettes deliver a different textural feel than washing with water but the same cleanliness.

另一個增長源是預溼面巾，或稱溼巾。生產天然護膚品系列的Yes to公司聯合創始人伊多?萊夫勒(Ido Leffler)說，不論是在健身房使用溼巾，還是在夜間用它進行快速清潔，消費者都喜歡它的便利。朋友們告訴他，他們都會在牀頭櫃上放些溼巾。萊夫勒稱：“他們在晚上參加活動後回到家，有點累，還有點醉，就會用面巾紙抹掉臉上的妝容。”Yes to產品研發經理艾米?哈特(Amy Hart)稱，與用水洗相比，這些面巾能起到同樣的清潔作用，但卻能給使用者帶來不同的質感。

Face washing at night is most important, dermatologists say. It removes dirt, grime and pollutants that have gathered on the skin during the day, as well as makeup. Some doctors say people without a serious skin-care issue, such as acne, can skip the soap and just rinse in the morning.

皮膚科醫生說，在夜間洗臉最重要。它會清除白天聚集在皮膚上的塵垢、污漬和污染物，還有妝容。有些醫生說，沒有嚴重護膚問題（比如痤瘡粉刺）的人早上可以不用肥皂，用水沖洗下即可。

'Your skin has just slept on a pillow, it is clean, it doesn't necessarily need to be washed,' said Gervaise Gerstner, a Manhattan dermatologist and consultant for L'Oreal Paris. Dry skin from overcleansing is a problem for people as they age, she says.

巴黎歐萊雅(L'Oreal Paris)顧問、曼哈頓的一名皮膚科醫生傑瓦伊斯?格斯特納(Gervaise Gerstner)說：“你睡覺的時候皮膚只接觸了枕頭，很乾淨，真沒必要洗。”她還稱，等人們老了的時候，那些因爲過度清洗引發的乾性皮膚就會是一個問題。

For men, the biggest face washing issue is which product they use -- or lack thereof. About half of men wash their face solely with water, says Rob Candelino, vice president of marketing for skin care at Unilever, maker of a Dove Men+Care brand. Of men who do use a cleanser, many use a bar of regular body soap, shampoo or whatever else they can find in the shower. Making matters worse, men generally don't moisturize or wear sunscreen every day and so tend to be more susceptible to drying and sun damage, Mr. Candelino says. Alcohol-based products like after-shave can also cause irritation, he says.

對於男性而言，潔面的最大問題是他們使用哪款產品──或者少用了哪種產品。聯合利華(Unilever)護膚市場部副總裁羅布?坎戴裏諾(Rob Candelino)稱，約有一半的男性只用清水洗臉。聯合利華是多芬男士+護理(Dove Men+Care)品牌的生產商。而那些使用了清潔產品的男性，許多人都只用一塊普通的沐浴皁、洗髮露或他們能在浴室找到的其他什麼東西。讓情況更糟的是，男性通常都不會天天給肌膚保溼或塗抹防曬霜，所以皮膚通常更易乾燥和被太陽曬傷。坎戴裏諾還稱，像男士鬚後水這種含有酒精的產品也會引發紅腫。

Dr. Gerstner suggests men wash their face with a cleanser in the evening to remove dirt and oil. The morning cleanse -- which often overlaps with the morning shave -- is optional, especially if the skin is feeling dry, she said. To make shaving easier, men can apply a warm, moist towel to the face beforehand to soften the skin and beard.

坎戴裏諾博士建議男性在夜間使用清潔產品洗臉來祛除塵垢和油脂。她說，晨間的清潔工作──常常會和早上的刮臉重合──不是必須的，尤其是如果你感到皮膚乾燥的話。爲了讓刮臉更容易，男性可以事先用一條溫暖潮溼的毛巾擦臉來讓皮膚和鬍鬚軟化。

Many Americans, especially teens, prefer cleansers that foam or create suds. 'They like the sensation,' says Cindy Kee, senior brand manager at Cetaphil, a line of gentle skin-care products, both foaming and nonfoaming, from Galderma Laboratories. People also tend to believe foam cleans better, which it doesn't.

許多美國人，尤其是青少年更偏愛泡沫型或能產生起泡肥皂水的清潔用品。絲塔芙(Cetaphil)高級品牌經理辛迪?凱(Cindy Kee)說：“他們就喜歡這種感覺。”絲塔芙是高德美公司(Galderma Laboratories)旗下溫和護膚系列品牌，包括泡沫型和不起泡產品。人們一般傾向於認爲，泡沫型清潔效果更好，但事實並非如此。

The urge to scrub is often formed as a teenager, when the skin is producing more oil and breakouts are common. 'Teens really crave that deep-down-to-the-pores type clean,' says Katie Decker, group brand director at Johnson & Johnson. The average age of the first breakout is 13. From 13 to 17, girls spend an average of 34 minutes a day on skin care, 11 minutes more than the national average for all women, Ms. Decker says.

想要擦洗的衝動通常是在一個人青少年時形成的，這個時期，皮膚分泌了更多的油脂、長痘非常普遍。強生集團品牌總監凱蒂?德克爾(Katie Decker)說：“青少年真的渴望那種深到毛孔內部型的清潔。”人們首次長痘的平均年紀是13歲。德克爾博士還稱，從13歲到17歲，女生每天平均會花34分鐘來護膚，這比全國所有女性花費的平均時間要長11分鐘。

Acne sufferers are likely to overcleanse, either with harsh products or rough scrubbing. 'You can't wash the pimples off your face,' say Katie Rodan, a dermatologist and co-founder of the Proactiv three-step system, which is owned by Guthy Renker. Many acne cleansers deposit a treatment product, such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, to kill bacteria and absorb oil.

痤瘡患者更易進行過度清潔，要麼會使用刺激性強的產品，要麼會使勁擦洗。高倫雅芙(Proactiv)三步祛痘法聯合創始人、皮膚科醫生凱蒂?羅丹(Katie Rodan)說：“你不能把你臉上的痘痘洗掉。”高倫雅芙現歸高西倫克(Guthy Renker)所有。很多痤瘡洗護用品中都含有治療藥物，像過氧化苯甲?或水楊酸，就是爲了殺菌和吸油。

Exfoliators, which contain particles that scrape dead cells from the surface of the skin, are getting gentler, too. Procter & Gamble Co.'s Olay brand recently released the Pro-X Microdermabrasion Plus Advance Cleansing System, which it says offers a gentler experience using a device with a motorized rotating brush, a foam head and a one-minute timer.

含有能刮掉皮膚表面死細胞的微粒的去角質產品也變得越來越溫和。寶潔公司(Procter & Gamble Co.) 玉蘭油(Olay)品牌近來發布了Pro-X微晶亮膚潔面儀+高級清潔套裝(Pro-X Microdermabrasion Plus Advance Cleansing System)。該公司稱，使用配有一支電動旋轉刷、一個泡沫噴霧頭和一分鐘計時器的潔面儀，它會提供更溫和的體驗。

The need for exfoliation increases with age, as the skin's ability to repair and shed itself slows. 'You can see visible differences as the skin piles up,' Ms. Goodman says.

隨着年紀的增長，皮膚自行修復的能力減弱，自行脫落的速度也減慢，所以人們對去角質產品的需求會隨之增加。古德曼(Goodman)說：“當皮膚皺在一起時，你就能看到這些顯而易見的不同。”

Many exfoliators contain sharp, jagged crystals made from particles of apricot pits or nuts that can cut into the skin, causing irritation and inflammation, says Laura Goodman, a senior scientist at P&G. The crystals in the Pro-X formula are small, round and made of sodium bicarbonate -- also known as baking soda -- which dissolve during cleansing.

寶潔公司高級科學家勞拉古德曼(Laura Goodman)稱，很多去角質產品都含有鋒利的、鋸齒狀的晶體，這些晶體由杏仁或堅果的微粒製成，它們會刺進皮膚，引發紅腫和炎症。而Pro-X產品配方中的晶體微小圓潤，且由碳酸氫鈉─也被稱爲蘇打粉─製成，它們在清潔過程中就會溶解。