丁字褲不再受年輕女性青睞

A young generation of women is discovering a new brand of sexy in the most unlikely of places: their grandmothers’ underwear drawers.

年輕一代女性從一個最不可思議的地方發現了性感新品牌：祖母和外祖母的內衣櫥。

“When I walk into a lingerie store, I’m always like, ‘O.K., which drawer in here is for the grannies?’ ” Daphne Javitch, 35, said of her predilection for ample-bottomed undies. That preference led Ms. Javitch, back in 2010, to found Ten Undies, a line with a cult following that sells cotton full-bottom bikinis, boy shorts and high-waist briefs not unlike the kind immortalized in “Bridget Jones’s Diary.” (“Hello, mommy.”) Ten’s wares are comfortable and practical, to be sure, but that’s hardly the only draw.

“每次走進內衣店，我總會想，‘好吧，給老奶奶的衣櫥在哪裏？’”35歲的達芙妮·賈維什(Daphne Javitch)說，她偏愛寬底內褲。所以2010年，她創立了小衆品牌Ten Undies，專門生產純棉全底比基尼、男孩式平角內褲和高腰三角褲，有點像《BJ單身日記》(Bridget Jones’s Diary)經典的那一款。（“你好啊老媽。”）Ten生產的內衣舒服實用，但這還不是唯一的優點。

“Within millennial and Generation Y consumer groups, it’s considered cool to be wearing full-bottom underwear,” said Bernadette Kissane, an apparel analyst at the market intelligence firm Euromonitor. “Thongs have had their moment.”

“千禧一代和Y一代的消費者羣體覺得穿全底內褲才酷，”市場智庫Euromonitor公司的服裝分析師伯納黛特·吉薩尼(Bernadette Kissane)說。

Data provided by the research company NPD Group back her up. Sales of thongs decreased 7 percent over the last year, while sales of fuller styles — briefs, boy shorts and high-waist briefs — have grown a collective 17 percent.

調研公司NPD集團提供的數據證實了她的說法。去年T型內褲的銷量降低了7%，全底內褲（包括三角褲、男孩式平角褲和高腰三角褲）的銷量總共增長了17%.

Erica Russo, the fashion director for accessories, cosmetics and intimate apparel at Bloomingdale’s, said that indeed there has been a “shift in the business.” She noted that the trend is in line with the higher-waist and roomier pants styles that have dominated fashion this season. Perhaps motivated by the same kind of contrarianism that helped elevate Birkenstocks and fanny packs, young women are embracing “granny panties” — and not just for laundry day.

布魯明戴爾(Bloomingdale’s)的配件、化妝品與內衣時尚總監埃麗卡·羅素(Erica Russo)說，“生意上確實有變化”。她指出，本季高腰的肥大褲子流行引領了這股風尚。或許是同那種促進了勃肯鞋和腰包走紅的逆向思維一樣，如今的年輕女性確實開始鍾愛“祖母式內褲”——而且不僅僅是在洗衣日那天。

“I only wear granny panties,” Julia Baylis, a willowy 22-year-old, declared proudly. Ms. Baylis and her best friend, Mayan Toledano, 27, design the boutique clothing label Me and You. Their best seller is a pair of white cotton underpants with the word “feminist” printed in pink bubble letters across the rear. Since the line’s introduction on April 7, the panties have sold out.

“我只穿祖母式內褲，”22歲，身材苗條的茱莉亞·貝里斯(Julia Baylis)驕傲地宣佈。貝里斯和她最好的朋友，27歲的馬伊安·托勒達諾(Mayan Toledano)開創了精品時裝品牌“我和你”(Me and You)。她們銷量最好的產品是一款白色純棉內褲，整個後部用粉紅色泡泡字體印着“女權主義”。自從4月7日開售以來，這款內褲一直供不應求。

Besides sales, the “feminist underwear” has inspired countless Instagram “belfies” (that’s a selfie for the behind) from Me and You customers eager to show off their feminist convictions as well as their pert posteriors.

除了銷售，這款“女權主義內褲”還激發了“你和我”的消費者們在Instagram上無止境的“後自拍”（belfies，就是從身後自拍）風潮，她們樂於張揚自己對女性主義的肯定以及時尚的臀部。

Ms. Baylis and Ms. Toledano are part of an all-female creative collective founded by Petra Collins called the Ardorous that explores feminist topics from a millennial point of view through collaborative and solo art projects. For the generation that counts both Beyoncé and Lena Dunham as feminist icons, female sexuality is wielded for one’s own pleasure.

貝里斯與托勒達諾是皮特拉·科林斯(Petra Collins)創立的全女性創意系列“Ardorous”的一部分，它旨在從千禧一代的角度，通過集體和個人藝術項目探索女性主義題材。這一代人把碧昂斯(Beyoncé)和莉娜·杜漢姆(Lena Dunham)視爲女性主義偶像，認爲女人的性感應該源於自身的快樂。

“Most lingerie is designed to appeal to a man,” Ms. Baylis said. “For us, that’s not even a consideration. This is underwear you wear totally for you. Maybe no one will see it, or maybe you’ll put it up on Instagram to share with everyone you know.”

“大多數內衣是爲了取悅男性而設計的，”貝里斯說。“我們從來沒想過這回事。身上穿的內衣應該完全是爲你自己設計的。可能根本沒有人看，又或者你會把它放到Instagram上來和你認識的人分享。”

That’s not to say Me and You’s customers don’t want to feel sexy; they absolutely do. “What’s sexy for us is being natural and comfortable,” Ms. Toledano said.

這不是說“我和你”的消費者們不想性感，她們也想。“對於我們來說，自然舒服纔是性感，”托勒達諾說。

And if seducing a man isn’t the goal, it can be a welcome side effect.

如果誘惑男人不是目標，這可能是一種很受歡迎的副作用。

“I think there’s a widespread misconception that men are into pearl thong, lace contraptions,” said Ms. Javitch of Ten Undies. “To be honest, men are into girls in T-shirts and white underwear.”

“我覺得有一種廣爲流傳的誤解，覺得男人就喜歡珍珠T褲、蕾絲小玩意兒，”Ten Undies的賈維什說。“誠實地說，男人還是喜歡女孩穿T恤衫和白色內褲。”

It’s a notion mainstream lingerie companies have been slow to embrace. As the gender gap among owners of small businesses continues to narrow, female entrepreneurs are becoming increasingly empowered to fill the void in the market.

主流內衣公司緩慢地接受了這個觀念。隨着小公司設計產品的性別差異開始縮小，女性企業家開始慢慢有了權力，填補這一市場空缺。

When Greer Simpkins, 28, began doing research for her own lingerie line, she visited a Victoria’s Secret store in New York to observe how women shopped for underwear.

28歲的格麗爾·辛普金斯(Greer Simpkins)爲她自己的內衣品牌做研究時，去了紐約一家“維多利亞的祕密”(Victoria’s Secret)門店，觀察女人們都買什麼內衣。

“I noticed that a lot of women would come in with a friend, and they’d be asking: ‘Do you like this? Do you think he will like it?’ ” said Ms. Simpkins, who previously worked as a counselor to young girls at McLean Hospital, a psychiatric hospital in Belmont, Mass. “They’d be thinking about everyone else but themselves,” an attitude she thought the store encouraged. She was also frustrated with how many trends, colors and frills the lingerie industry pushed each season.

“我注意到很多女人都是和朋友一起來，她們會問：‘你喜歡這個嗎？你覺得他會喜歡嗎？’”辛普金斯說，她之前在馬薩諸塞州貝爾蒙特的精神病醫院麥克林醫院(McLean Hospital)給年輕女孩當顧問，“她們在乎其他人的看法，卻不在乎自己的，”她覺得商店也鼓勵她們這種想法。每一季，內衣工業內推行的很多潮流、色彩和裝飾也讓她覺得困惑。

“Most women just want something basic for every day that will make them look and feel good,” she said.

“大多數女人只想每一天穿最基本的東西，看上去不錯，自己也覺得舒服，”她說。

So, in December, Ms. Simpkins introduced an underwear line with just one design: a white cotton panty with an unusually high cut and narrow back. The name, Hello Beautiful, is meant as an affirmation. She already counts Chloë Sevigny, an arbiter of all things cool, as a fan.

所以，去年12月，辛普金斯推出了一個內衣品牌，只有一款設計：白色純棉內褲，有着非同尋常的高叉剪裁和狹窄的後部。它的名字叫“你好，美麗”(Hello Beautiful)，代表了一種肯定。“酷”的仲裁者，科洛·塞維尼(Chloë Sevigny)已經成了這款內褲的粉絲。

Fuller styles are a welcome alternative for Myla Dalbesio, a size 10 underwear model. “The high-waisted and high-cut styles hark back to a time when different body shapes were in style,” she said, adding that many larger women find high-rise briefs flattering because they define the waist and cover areas a woman may be less comfortable with.

米拉·達爾貝西奧(Myla Dalbesio)也歡迎這股全底內褲風潮，她是內褲模特，穿10碼。“高腰和高叉風格帶我們回到不同體型都可以被包括在時尚之內的時代，”她還說，很多體型較大的女人覺得高叉三角褲好看，是因爲她們覺得女人可能對自己的腰部和私處感到不自在。

Ms. Dalbesio said she was hopeful that the greater diversity of offerings was a sign that the lingerie industry is beginning to recognize that “there is not one ‘ideal body,’ but a plethora of them.”

達爾貝西奧說，她希望多樣化的風潮能讓內衣工業開始認爲“‘理想身材’不止一種，而是有很多種。”

In the end, it is about options.

說到底，這是一個選擇問題。

“There’s nothing wrong with wanting to be more traditionally sexy and wearing a thong; that doesn’t mean you’re not a feminist,” Ms. Toledano said. “This is a step toward embracing more variety in what’s offered.”

“想穿T褲，展現傳統的性感，這沒有錯；這不意味着你不是一個女性主義者，”托勒達諾說，“不同的內褲只是通往接受多樣化的一步。”