託洛尼亞別墅 墨索里尼時代的歷史之痛

ROME — Deep beneath the historic Villa Torlonia, where Benito Mussolini lived for nearly two decades, a wine cellar repurposed in 1941 as a bunker to protect the Fascist leader was recently opened to the public. Even in a city stratified with centuries of history, where archaeologists are digging up the remains of an ancient empire, the damp underground space is a telling sign of how deeply Italy’s relatively recent past can stay buried.

羅馬——貝尼託·墨索里尼(Benito Mussolini)在著名的託洛尼亞別墅(Villa Torlonia)住了近20年。1941年，別墅地下深處的一個酒窖被改造成地堡，以保護這位法西斯首腦。前不久，地堡向公衆開放。考古學家們仍在這座歷史悠久的城市裏挖掘古老帝國的遺蹟，但是這個潮溼的地下空間顯然表明，意大利的近代史仍被深深掩埋。

The opening of the bunker last fall was the latest step in the ongoing restoration of the sprawling villa compound, which the aristocratic Torlonia family rented to Mussolini and his family from 1925 until his arrest in 1943. Inside what is now a popular park, the complex of nine buildings erected between 1797 and 1920 also provides a unique window on the history of taste — and the Torlonias’ ability to cozy up to whomever was in power, reaching back even before the family’s bank, which was favored by the Vatican.

從1925年到1943年墨索里尼被捕，身爲貴族的託洛尼亞家族把這座別墅租給了墨索里尼一家。如今，這個龐大的別墅在不斷修復中。去年秋天，地堡被打開，那是修復工作的最新一步。別墅的庭院如今是一個著名的公園。1797年至1920年建起來的這九座建築爲我們提供了一個獨特的窗口，得以一窺託洛尼亞家族的品味以及他們迎合所有當權者的能力，甚至可以追溯到這個家族的銀行（它受到梵蒂岡的青睞）創建之前。

After World War II the villa fell into ruin, a result of family inheritance battles but also of Italy’s uncertainty about what to do with a site so closely linked to the dictator. In 1977 the compound, in a residential area just outside Rome’s historic center, was claimed by the city, which opened the grounds to the public the next year and, starting in the 1990s, mustered the funding and political will to restore the buildings.

“二戰”之後，這座別墅淪爲廢墟，一是因爲家族遺產之爭，二是因爲意大利不確定該如何處置這個與獨裁者關係密切的處所。別墅位於羅馬歷史悠久的中心城區旁邊的一個住宅區裏。1977年，它被市政府收走，次年庭院部分向公衆開放。從20世紀90年代起，市政府開始籌集資金，以及激發政治方面的意願來修復這些建築。

“It took a long time — people weren’t ready for it,” said Alberta Campitelli, an art historian who, as director of Rome’s historic villas and parks, has overseen the restoration. “There had been a cancellation of history,” she said as she toured the compound on a sweltering afternoon. “It was still too painful.”

“這花了很長時間，因爲一開始人們還沒準備好接受它，”藝術史學家阿爾貝塔·坎皮泰利(Alberta Campitelli)說。作爲羅馬市的別墅和公園遺址主管，她監管修復工作。“人們曾想抹掉那段歷史，”在一個悶熱的下午，她在巡視別墅時說，“當時它仍令人十分痛苦。”

Rome boasts some impressive Fascist-era architecture and landmarks. A plaque in the former Jewish Ghetto marks the deportation of around 1,000 Jews to Auschwitz in 1943 by the Nazis, who occupied part of the country, and in recent years commemorative cobblestones have been placed by the houses of deported Jews. But generally, Italy has been reluctant to come to terms with and call attention to Fascist sites, including Mussolini’s headquarters in the Palazzo Venezia in downtown Rome. Partly that is a result of fears that neo-Fascists would flock to such sites, as happens regularly in Predappio, Mussolini’s birthplace in northern Italy. Even if the bunker exhibition is fairly modest, Villa Torlonia has become a notable exception, especially the restoration of the Casino Nobile, the main house where Mussolini lived, which opened as a museum in 2006 under the left-wing Mayor Walter Veltroni.

羅馬有一些令人印象深刻的法西斯時代的建築和地標。從前的猶太居民區有一塊匾牌，上面記錄說，1943年，大約1000名猶太人被當時佔領意大利部分地區的納粹黨人驅逐到奧斯維辛集中營。近些年，被驅逐的猶太人的房子旁邊放上了一些紀念性的鵝卵石。不過，總的來說，意大利不願面對和關注法西斯遺址，包括羅馬市中心威尼斯宮(Palazzo Venezia)的墨索里尼總部。一個原因是人們擔心新法西斯分子會蜂擁前往這些地點，就像在意大利北部墨索里尼出生地普雷達皮奧經常發生的情況那樣。儘管地堡展覽非常低調，但是託洛尼亞別墅則引人注目，非同尋常，特別是墨索里尼住過的主樓尊貴樓(Casino Nobile)的修復。2006年，左翼市長沃爾特·韋爾特羅尼(Walter Veltroni)在任時，主樓作爲博物館對外開放。

“When it comes to actually talking about the history of Rome under Fascism and of Rome under Mussolini personally, there is nowhere like the Villa Torlonia,” said Anthony Majanlahti, a historian and the author of two books on Rome under Fascism and one on the city’s noble families. “It’s the only place where you can find the city trying to come to terms with it, or bravely saying, ‘Yes, we are talking about this.’ ”

“當真正談論法西斯統治下的羅馬以及墨索里尼統治下的羅馬時，沒有哪個地方能比得上託洛尼亞別墅，”史學家安東尼·馬雅拉提(Anthony Majanlahti)說。他寫了兩本關於法西斯統治下的羅馬的書和一本關於羅馬貴族家庭的書。“只有在這個地方，你能發現這座城市在努力面對這段歷史，甚至是大膽承認：‘是的，我們在談論這段歷史。’”

The villa’s grounds also contain ancient Jewish catacombs discovered in 1918 and not open to the public. It was at Villa Torlonia in 1938 that Mussolini announced racial laws stripping Jews of citizenship and removing them from many professions. The Casino Nobile now features a small museum dedicated to the Roman School of anti-Fascist artists active between the 1920s and 1940s, including the writer and painter Carlo Levi. Today, plans are in the works to build a Holocaust museum in a lot adjacent to the villa.

託洛尼亞別墅的庭院裏還有古代猶太人的地下墓穴，它們是1918年發現的，沒有對公衆開放。1938年，就是在這裏，墨索里尼宣佈種族歧視法律，剝奪猶太人的公民身份，禁止他們從事很多職業。如今，尊貴樓變成了一個小博物館，專門介紹20世紀20年代至40年代的羅馬反法西斯藝術家，包括作家兼畫家卡洛·萊維(Carlo Levi)。現在，別墅旁邊的空地上正在籌劃修建一個猶太人大屠殺博物館。

Mussolini’s bunkers, which were never used, can be visited only by appointment in groups of fewer than 20 on regular guided visits organized by Sotterranei di Roma, a cultural association to which the city outsourced the tours for lack of funding, Ms. Campitelli said. While workers were restoring the bunkers — one had been opened to the public several years ago — they found three skeletons from the second century. “That’s Rome, from the second century to 1943,” Ms. Campitelli said.

坎皮泰利說，墨索里尼的地堡從未用過，現在只能通過預約Sotterranei di Roma文化協會（由於缺乏資金，政府把參觀外包給了這個協會）定期組織的少於20人的導遊團進行參觀。工人們在修復地堡（其中一個幾年前已向公衆開放）時發現了三具公元2世紀的遺骸。“這就是羅馬，從公元2世紀到1943年的歷史，你都能看到，”坎皮泰利說。

The newly restored bunker features a small exhibition with gas masks, leaflets sent ahead of rare Allied bombing raids during the war and recordings of the sounds of air raid sirens. More than 1,500 visitors have come since it opened last fall, often older Romans who remembered the war, said Lorenzo Grassi of Sotterranei di Roma.

新修復的地堡有一個小型展覽，展示戰爭期間使用的防毒面具、盟軍少數幾次轟炸前散發的傳單以及空襲警報的錄音。Sotterranei di Roma協會的洛倫佐·格拉西(Lorenzo Grassi)說，自去年秋天開放以來，已有1500多名遊客觀看了展覽，大多是記得那場戰爭的羅馬老年人。

The villa was built between 1797 and the 1860s. The Torlonia family, originally the Tourlonais, were French arrivistes who became wealthy through an exclusive contract to supply uniforms to Italy’s French occupiers during the Napoleonic years and grew richer after 1782 when they opened a bank that catered to the nobility and eventually the Vatican, which still has ties to the bank.

這座別墅建於1797年至19世紀60年代之間。託洛尼亞家族本姓託洛納斯(Tourlonais)，拿破崙一世時期，通過獨家爲法國佔領者提供製服而發家，1782年，這個家族開設了一個爲貴族和梵蒂岡服務的銀行，從而變得更加富有。梵蒂岡至今仍與該銀行有牽連。

Construction of the Casino Nobile started in 1835, and it includes reliefs by the sculptor Antonio Canova and rooms frescoed in various styles, from the Egyptian to the Gothic. The bedroom used by Mussolini has an ornately carved wooden headboard and a ceiling painted with faux drapery.

尊貴樓始建於1835年，牆上的浮雕出自雕塑家安東尼奧·卡諾瓦(Antonio Canova)之手，裝飾着壁畫的房間風格多樣，從埃及風格到哥特風格。墨索里尼臥室的木牀頭板有着華麗的雕飾，天花板上繪製着帷幕圖案。

From 1944 to 1947 the villa was occupied by American soldiers. During the restoration, workers found circles of pockmarks on one frescoed wall; they turned out to have been caused by errant darts from the Americans’ games. The wall paintings were restored, but the pockmarks were retained. “All the history should be documented,” Ms. Campitelli said.

1944年至1947年，託洛尼亞別墅被美國士兵佔領。修復期間，工人們在一面有壁畫的牆上發現了一些圓形小凹坑，原來它們是美國士兵玩飛鏢時射偏了造成的。壁畫被修復，但凹坑仍在。“所有的歷史都應該被記錄下來，”坎皮泰利說。

By 1840, the Torlonia family was established enough for Alessandro Torlonia to marry Teresa Colonna of the aristocratic Roman family. To celebrate, the family started building a cozy 150-seat theater decorated with images of famous couples from mythology. Its décor also features frescoes by Constantino Brumidi, a Greek who was imprisoned after supporting a short-lived Roman republic and later fled to the United States, where he painted frescoes for the Capitol building in Washington. In 2013 the city of Rome finished a restoration of the theater, and it now presents programming there.

到1840年，託洛尼亞家族的地位已經很高，亞歷山德羅·託洛尼亞(Alessandro Torlonia)得以迎娶羅馬貴族之家的特雷莎·科隆納(Teresa Colonna)。爲了慶祝這次聯姻，這個家族開始修建一個有150個座位的舒適的戲院，牆上裝飾着神話傳說中著名伉儷的畫像以及康斯坦丁諾·布魯米迪(Constantino Brumidi)創作的壁畫。布魯米迪是希臘人，因支持一個短命的羅馬共和國而入獄，後來逃到美國，曾爲華盛頓的國會大廈繪製壁畫。2013年，羅馬市完成對這座戲院的修復，如今這裏有劇目演出。

After he gave Mussolini the run of the Casino Nobile, Prince Giovanni Torlonia moved into the Casina delle Civette, a somewhat kitschy folly on the grounds that reopened in 1997 as a museum of stained glass. Considered eccentric, the prince was known to stay up late and sleep by day, and his bedroom ceiling was decorated with bats sculpted in stucco.

喬瓦尼·託洛尼亞(Giovanni Torlonia)把尊貴樓租給墨索里尼後，自己搬到了Casina delle Civette樓，它有點低俗，1997年作爲一個彩色玻璃博物館重新開放。據說他很古怪，晚上熬夜，白天睡覺，他臥室的天花板上裝飾着用灰泥雕刻的蝙蝠。

The gardens are still a popular public park, but the lawn hasn’t been mowed or the plants watered in months because the company that would do the work is under investigation as part of a corruption scandal in Rome.

如今作爲公園開放的別墅花園依然很受歡迎，但是幾個月來，這裏的草坪沒有修剪，花木也沒有澆水，因爲負責這些工作的公司因涉及羅馬的一樁貪污醜聞在接受調查。

Ms. Campitelli, who will retire next year, fretted over one of the dying rose plants outside the Casina delle Civette. “I’m very happy and proud to have brought these things to life,” she said wistfully. “My only interest is that they will be maintained in a dignified way for future generations.”

明年，坎皮泰利將要退休，她爲Casina delle Civette樓外一株快要枯死的玫瑰花感到擔憂。“能讓這些東西重獲新生，我感到非常高興和自豪，”她不無留戀地說道，“我唯一的興趣就是好好維護這些東西，把它們留給後代。”