新西蘭式的奢侈遊 Luxury lodge hopping in New Zealand

The four accountants who’d come down from Nelson by helicopter to have fish and chips on the quay had flown back home. The Australian-Chinese family next door had finished cooking the fish they’d caught in the bay and the guys in the public campsite at the end of the cove had run out of beer and finally fallen silent. I stood on the balcony of my cabin at the Bay of Many Coves. The only sound was the Sound — the waters of Queen Charlotte Sound, lapping against the pontoon, which, with its white uprights and the white yacht moored nearby, seemed to float in space against the flat, black bay.

從納爾遜(Nelson)坐直升機遠道來碼頭享用魚與薯片的4位會計師已打道回府。隔壁的澳籍華裔一家人也已把從海灣捕獲的魚鮮煮好，住在峽灣盡頭公共宿營地的一夥人喝光啤酒後也已消停。我站在千洞灣度假村(Bay of Many Coves)的木屋陽臺上，耳畔聽到的唯一聲響就是夏洛特女王峽灣(Queen Charlotte Sound)海浪拍打浮碼頭髮出的聲響。浮碼頭的一排排白色立竿與就近停靠的白色遊艇，在風平浪靜的漆黑海灣中，猶如飄浮於浩瀚太空的孤舟。

So ended a blissful day in New Zealand and a rather remarkable journey. In a week I had crossed between North and South Islands visiting some of the 31 properties that make up the Luxury Lodges of New Zealand. This is a loose association of places, owned by a variety of owners from Wall Street billionaires to third-generation families of rural landowners — and they are booming.

這是我在新西蘭度過的一天快樂旅程，也宣告了整個非凡旅程塵埃落定。整整一週時間，我穿梭於南島與北島(North and South Islands)，入住新西蘭Luxury Lodges旗下多處酒店。這是個鬆散的酒店協會，所有者形形色色，從華爾街的億萬富豪到第三代當地土著人家庭——他們的生意越來越紅火。

Once seen by many as a destination for backpackers to hike, bike and bungee jump, New Zealand’s profile is changing. In 2014 the national tourist board developed a “premium sector strategy” that would appeal to the world’s wealthiest 40-60 year olds. It hoped to capitalise on a perceived rejection of ostentatious luxury in favour of privacy, authenticity and natural environments.

新西蘭曾被很多人視爲是驢友徒步旅行、騎自行車以及蹦極跳的天堂，如今它的形象早已今非昔比。2014年，新西蘭國家旅遊局推出了高端旅遊戰略(premium sector strategy)，旨在吸引全球40-60歲之間的超級富豪，這羣人希望真正拋棄浮華的奢侈，追求私密、原汁原味以及自然風貌。

Already it has paid dividends: the members of Luxury Lodges of New Zealand saw revenues rise 22 per cent for the six months to September 2015 compared to the previous year. And rather than simply visiting one upmarket lodge, they are increasingly indulging in what is — genuinely — becoming known as “lodge-hopping”. You can hop, as I did, on internal flights and into rental cars. You can hop on ferries. Or — if you’re really not scrimping — you can hop from lodge to lodge on a helicopter; they all have helipads.

功夫不負有心人：截止2015年9月的半年時間裏，Luxury Lodges旗下酒店的收入同比增長了22%。遊客不再僅侷限於遊玩某一處高端度假點，而是越來越沉醉於所謂的跳點式旅遊(lodge-hopping)。遊客與我一樣，可選擇乘坐國內航班或是渡船以及租車進行跳點式旅遊。或者如果諸位在乎費用的話，可選擇乘坐直升機在酒店間跳點旅遊，各個度假地都建有直升機停機坪。

Rates include breakfast, early evening drinks and dinner, and range from NZ$805 (￡360) for a room at Hapuku Lodge to NZ$12,075 for the owner’s cottage at Matakauri Lodge near Queenstown, where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge stayed in 2014.

旅遊費用中含早餐、傍晚茶飲以及晚餐，每位遊客從Hapuku Lodge豪華樹屋酒店的每個房間805新西蘭元（約360英鎊）到Matakauri Lodge精品酒店每套單棟別墅的12075新西蘭元。Matakauri Lodge位於皇后鎮(Queenstown)附近，當今英國劍橋公爵夫婦(Duke and Duchess of Cambridge)2014年曾下榻於此。

I started in the North Island, flying from Auckland to Napier, the east-coast town that was devastated by a huge earthquake in 1931. It was rebuilt entirely in the Art Deco style and, Miami Beach aside, there’s no finer concentration of that vernacular. Some 20 minutes out of town, the US billionaire and hedge fund pioneer Julian Robertson acquired 6,000 acres of farmland and forest gazing over Hawke’s Bay in 1995 (for what he has described as “the cost of a modest New York apartment”). In 2007 he opened an isolated lodge there called The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, run by his son Jay.

我從北島(North Island)啓程，從奧克蘭乘坐飛機抵達東海岸城市納皮爾(Napier)。該城曾毀於1931年的大地震，之後完全按照阿泰科建築風格(Art Deco)重建，全世界除了邁阿密海灘(Miami Beach)外，就數這兒彙集的阿泰科風格建築佈局最爲合理。出城大約20分鐘，就是美國億萬富豪與對衝基金先驅朱利安•羅伯遜(Julian Robertson)1995年購買的、面向霍克斯灣(Hawke’s Bay)的6000英畝農田與森林（拿他自己的話說，花了相當於“紐約一幢現代公寓房的錢”）。2007年，他在此開建了一處遠離塵世的度假地——柺子角農場酒店(The Farmat Cape Kidnappers)，酒店由他兒子傑伊(Jay)負責打理。

There are walking trails along barren clifftops and through wild meadows with the promise of spotting kiwis and tuis (the former hard; the latter easy). There’s also what Golf Digest says is the best course in New Zealand. The rooms are what you’d expect a billionaire with taste and a care for heritage to make of a 19th-century sheepshearer’s farmhouse.

行走在蜿蜒小徑，穿行於荒蕪的懸崖頂及野草地，幸運的話，可以看到幾維鳥與蜜雀（前者概率小，後者則容易得多）。此處還有《高爾夫文摘》(Golf Digest)評出的新西蘭最佳高爾夫球場。柺子角農場酒店房間參照19世紀剪羊毛工人住所打造，是對文化遺產兼具品位與愛心的億萬富豪的嘔心瀝血之作。

From there I flew to Queenstown, the more or less undisputed global capital of adventure and adrenalin. On the outskirts overlooking Lake Wakatipu is Azur Lodge, nine cabins (or villas, as they prefer to be known) sprinkled down a steep slope. Inside: the trappings of a contemporary chic hotel — white sofas, fireplaces, throws, rugs and sculptures. Azur is not part of the lodges association for the simple reason that it doesn’t serve dinner, but instead staff will order food in from one of the many international restaurants nearby. I was as happy here with my fishburger from Fergbaker and Amisfield Sauvignon Blanc as with any meal on the trip.

從柺子角農場酒店，我坐飛機抵達皇后鎮(Queenstown)，這兒基本上是全球毫無爭議的冒險遊聖地。Azur Lodge酒店位於小鎮邊緣地帶，俯瞰瓦卡蒂普湖(Lake Wakatipu)，它的九幢木屋（抑或說是別墅，它們更傾向於如此稱謂）散佈於峭坡之上。酒店內則完全是現代時尚酒店的配置——白沙發、壁爐、牀罩、地毯以及座座雕塑。Azur Lodge酒店並非Luxury Lodges協會成員，原因很簡單：它不提供晚餐，但員工可從附近多家國際餐廳訂餐。Fergbaker與Amisfield Sauvignon Blanc餐館的魚肉餡餅，與旅程中享用的所有膳食一樣，都讓自己念念不忘。

After venturing further afield in Otago, including Arrowtown, a village so sweet, tree-lined and clapboarded it’s crying out to be the setting of a horror movie, I took the Milford Sound road south past the Remarkables ski fields, through the paddocks and trout streams to Te Anau and Fiordland Lodge. I hesitate to say Fiordland is the humblest of the lodges, although it is the cheapest and most traditional of those I saw — albeit housed in a fine contemporary timber building with an asymmetrical pitched roof set against a backdrop of distant snowcapped peaks. It wasn’t the best room but it was my favourite cooking of the trip. The classic, unfussy dishes such as grilled salmon and risotto don’t sound exciting, but they’re just what guests — whether the helicoptering classes or not — want on a rural New Zealand adventure.

深入奧塔哥省(Otago)腹地後（其中就包括了景色迷人、綠樹成蔭的Arrowtown村，它用隔板圍擋，因爲急需充當某恐怖影片的外景拍攝地），我選擇Milford Sound這條路，向南經過Remarkables滑雪場，再穿過馬場、涉過鮭魚生活的溪流最後抵達Te Anau的Fiordland Lodge酒店。我不願說Fiordland是最爲簡陋的酒店，儘管它價格最便宜，也是本人整個旅程中見過的最傳統酒店——它開在做工精緻、非對稱斜屋頂的現代木屋房裏，遠處白雪皚皚的羣峯盡入眼簾。房間並不算最高檔，但我品嚐到了整個旅程中的最好美食。烤大馬哈魚與意式調味飯等傳統簡單菜餚聽起來一般，但它們正是深入新西蘭鄉村歷險的遊客們（不管是否搭乘直升機）的最愛。

The lodges are not just about fine food, soft mattresses and great views but about the range of activities and experiences offered. In the morning, a helicopter landed on Fiordland’s front lawn and whisked us over the lake and up the mountain to the Luxmore Hut, a mountain refuge 1,085m above sea level and one of the stopovers on the celebrated Kepler Track walking route.

Fiordland Lodge酒店出名的不僅僅是美食、柔軟的牀墊以及絕世美景，而是提供的衆多活動與體驗項目。每天早晨，直升機就降落在Fiordland酒店前的草地上，載着我們飛速掠過湖泊、越過高山，前往海拔1085米的高山Luxmore Hut棚屋，這兒是著名的凱普勒徒步道(Kepler Track)的中途歇腳點。

I was guided by Steve Norris, who runs local tour operator Trips and Tramps, and is also an unpaid checker of stoat traps. Many of New Zealand’s native creatures have struggled against predators who arrived with human visitors — dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, stoats and their like — and the traps are an attempt to control their numbers. We descended through blustery rain and buffeting winds into sparkling sunny lakeland, checking the traps as we went. We found one dead stoat and two decomposing rats in the traps. This is a hopeful sign for the kiwis and even rarer tahakes, their eggs and their chicks — when they first laid the traps, the haul would have been five or six times that. “Unless,” as one laconic American tramper we met on the trail put it, “the stoats have gotten smarter.”

我的嚮導是斯蒂夫•諾里斯(Steve Norris)，他是當地旅行社Trips and Tramps的負責人，又是不拿報酬的白鼬陷阱查驗員。新西蘭很多土生土長的動物在外來遊客帶來的天敵（如狗、貓、野兔、白鼬等）的夾擊下生存艱難。這些陷阱就是試圖控制天敵數量的舉措。我們頂着狂風暴雨從山頂下到陽光明媚、波光鱗鱗的湖區，一路上不斷檢查所設陷阱，我們看到了一隻死去的白鼬以及兩隻腐爛的老鼠。這對於幾維鳥以及更爲稀少的tahake（它們的蛋與雛鳥）是個福音——最初設置陷阱時，捕獲的“天敵”數量是現在的5、6倍之多。“正如途中遇見的一位美國驢友言簡意賅地說道：‘除非白鼬變得更靈性。’”

From Queenstown, a flight took me to poor, battered and broken Christchurch. Before the 2011 earthquake this was known as the most genteelly English of New Zealand cities. Now, with its cranes, wasteland parking lots and hoardings it has the air of an English town that’s still recovering from the Luftwaffe. But the insurance money is beginning to flow at last. It will recover; look at Napier.

我們從皇后鎮坐直升機抵達滿目瘡痍的基督城(Christchurch)。2011年大地震前，它是新西蘭最具英國風情的溫文爾雅的城市。起重機、荒地停車場以及臨時搭建的圍牆如今隨處可見，更像是遭受德國空軍轟炸後百廢待興的英國城市。但是，保險賠償金最終開始發放，基督城將會東山再起，納皮爾就是明證。

An hour’s drive to the south is Annandale, a coastal farm that is home to some of the association’s most dramatic accommodation. Four separate, private, houses are scattered across a 4,000 acre farm, each offering a distinct architectural style and what the owners call “gumboot luxury”. They range from the five-bedroom Homestead, a handsome colonial-style farmhouse built in the 1880s to Seascape, a dramatic glass-walled retreat just for two. Surrounded by hills and facing the sea, Scrubby Bay is a relaxed and secluded beach house, ideal for gatherings of up to 14, complete with swimming pool and outdoor hot tub. Annandale’s marketing slogan is as simple as it is compelling: “Stay where the world can’t find you”.

從基督城向南驅車1小時就抵達了Annandale，在所有Luxury Lodges酒店中，這座海濱農場酒店的膳宿給人留下的印象最爲深刻。四幢獨立的私人居所散落在面積4000英畝的大農場，每一座都有着與衆不同的建築風格，提供其主人所謂的“橡膠靴似的奢華”（gumboot luxury，即中用不中看）。它們從五臥的Homestead到漂亮玻璃牆裝飾的Seascape，前者是建於19世紀80年代殖民時期建築風格的漂亮農舍，後者則是僅滿足兩人賓客入住的度假場所。配有游泳池與室外熱水浴池的海濱別墅Scrubby Bay三面環山、一面朝海，是遠離塵囂的休閒之地，最適合多達14人的團隊在此聚會。Annandale的營銷口號既言簡意賅又過目不忘：“請君入住桃花源”。

Head north from Christchurch and three hours on the road brings you to Kaikoura, a small town on a bay, whose cold, rich waters support sperm whales, seals, occasional orcas, dolphins, albatrosses; and hence shoals of tourists.

從基督城驅車北行三個小時，就來到了海濱小鎮凱庫拉(Kaikoura)，此處富含營養質的寒冷海水吸引着抹香鯨、逆戟鯨、海豚以及信天翁前來覓食，遊客因此紛至沓來。

Just up the coast, the tree houses of Hapuku Lodge appeared between the mountains and sea. I wish I had the space to tell the story of the Wilson family, five generations of architects who made their way in San Francisco and came back to create this delightful place. It’s also one of those New Zealand environments that throws the unwary European: your eyes settle on a pattern of tussocky fields and hills, so familiar to travellers in Scotland or North Wales: and then — what? — totara trees, wheki-ponga tree ferns, pohutukawa flowers.

Hapuku Lodge酒店的三幢樹屋就位於海岸邊，散佈於高山與大海之間。我真希望有機會能好好介紹一下酒店所有者威爾遜家族(Wilson)的歷史：這個五代建築設計師的家族在美國舊金山發跡後，返回凱庫拉打造了這片人間仙境。這兒也是新西蘭諸多讓歐洲粗心遊客恍惚的地方：來自蘇格蘭或北威爾士的遊客看到雜草叢生的田地與山峯佈局，感覺再熟悉不過了。而後呢？卻是壓根不熟悉的羅漢松、wheki-ponga樹蕨以及波胡圖卡瓦聖誕樹花(pohutukawa flowers)。

For all the epic Middle Earth wonders of the mountainous west, the drive along the coast road to Blenheim and the far north of the South Island is the most magical: the turquoise and aquamarine expanse of the Pacific to your right, the golden hills of the wine lands rippling in the wind and sun ahead.

儘管西部山區有《指環王》中土世界(Middle Earth)的瑰麗風景，但沿着朝向布萊尼姆(Blenheim)以及南島更北端地區的沿海公路一路疾馳，沿途有着最爲壯美的風景：右側是碧綠浩瀚的太平洋，山坡上葡萄園裏成熟的累累碩果在風與陽光下婆娑搖曳。

At Picton you leave your car and take a boat through Queen Charlotte Sound to the Bay of Many Coves, where this story began and ends. The lodge has been transformed by Murray McCaw, chair of Luxury Lodges of New Zealand, and his wife Elaine. After a career in the motor industry, IT and doing corporate turnrounds, Murray has settled for a life where he can indulge his passion for photographing birds, wine tasting, playing Scottish folk songs, organising opera festivals and chatting to people like me about what this particular aspect of New Zealand tourism has to offer.

抵達皮克頓(Picton)後，我們下車乘船穿過夏洛特女王峽灣前往千洞灣度假村，這兒既是旅程的起點又是終點。度假村由新西蘭Luxury Lodges酒店協會主席穆雷•麥考(Murray McCaw)及其妻子伊萊恩(Elaine)重新翻建。穆雷曾從業於汽車業、IT業以及幫助其它公司扭虧，最後他選擇了自己心儀的生活——縱情于飛鳥照片拍攝、美酒品鑑、蘇格蘭民間音樂彈奏、歌劇節組織以及與我這樣的人暢談新西蘭原生態旅遊業的服務內容。

Over dinner and an increasingly voluble debate about wine matching we wrestled with a phrase coined by my tour operator to sell the lodges: “luxury with a conscience”. To me it sounded like “puritanical decadence” or “responsible hedonism”, and on my trip I sensed some awkwardness around it. Luxury, the word and the idea, doesn’t thrive well in these far southern islands.

晚餐期間，我們爲葡萄酒如何搭配爭得不亦樂乎；我們爭着解讀斯蒂夫•諾里斯爲推銷千洞灣度假村而想出的詞：“luxury with a conscience”（用心打造奢華）。我覺得這頗似“清教徒似的頹廢”抑或說是“負責任的享樂主義”，整個旅程中，我感覺到有些彆扭。奢侈品，無論是措辭還是內涵，在偏遠的新西蘭各個島上的發展都不盡如人意。

True, there are Pradas and Louis Vuitton on Auckland’s Queen Street, but even their most loyal customers from Hong Kong and Beijing aren’t here for the shopping. They’re here to eat abalone, see kids graduate, eye up a waterside apartment, try some wines and fill their bodies with clean air and water.

沒錯，在奧克蘭的皇后街(Queen Street)也有普拉達(Pradas)與路易維登(Louis Vuitton)的門店，但即便它們的最忠實客戶（來自香港與北京）也並非來此購物。他們來新西蘭是享用鮑魚、看望在此上學的孩子、查看海景公寓、品鑑美酒以及盡情享受清潔的空氣與飲用水。

Within the lodges’ association there’s a select group of “super lodges” (of which Cape Kidnappers is one), with more privacy, a bigger room, more daring architecture and higher thread count on your sheets. But I’d still recommend trying the full range; and don’t forget the real luxuries the lodges offer — the tramps, the wildlife, the heartbreaking views — are open to everyone.

在整個酒店協會內，有幾家精選出來的極品（柺子角農場酒店無疑是其中之一），它們具有更好的隱祕性、更寬敞的房間、更爲大膽的建築風格以及布料更優質的牀單。但本人仍建議大家整個體驗一番，並銘記每家酒店的真正奢侈享受——徒步旅行、觀賞野生動物以及欣賞蕩氣迴腸的美景——對每個遊客都開放。

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詳情介紹

Mark Jones was a guest of New Zealand In Depth, which offers a 10-night tour staying at five of the association’s properties, from ￡4,120 per person, including half-board basis, a round of golf at Cape Kidnappers, a scenic helicopter flight, car hire, domestic flights and transfers. The writer flew from Hong Kong to Auckland on Cathay Pacific

馬克•瓊斯是新西蘭深度遊旅行社(New Zealand In Depth)的遊客，旅行社提供遊客在酒店協會旗下5家會員入住10晚的旅遊套餐，每位遊客最低費用爲4120英鎊，包括半膳宿、在釦子角農場酒店打一場高爾夫球、乘坐直升機欣賞美景、租車費、乘坐國內航班以及轉機費。馬克•瓊斯從香港乘坐國泰航空公司(Cathay Pacific)的航班飛抵奧克蘭。