奢華澳門 如何盡興窮遊
As we bumped along in the No.
當我們坐在25路巴士上沿着路氹連貫公路顛簸前行時，很難去忽略遠處的澳門威尼斯人(Venetian Macau)。
25 bus on Estrada do Istmo, it was impossible not to notice the Venetian Macau, a mountain of steel and glass, shining in the distance in the afternoon sun.
在午後的陽光下，這座由鋼鐵和玻璃組成的山峯閃閃發光。
Opened in 2007, it’s home to one of the largest casinos on earth.
全球最大的賭場之一就設在2007年開業的該酒店內。
And it’s not alone: Of the 10 biggest casinos in the world in 2014 (based on revenue), a staggering eight were in Macau,
並且並非孤例：2014年全球最大的10家賭場（按收入計算）中，多達八家位於中國南部海岸地區的彈丸之地澳門。
a tiny region on the southern coast of China, where over half a million people are packed into fewer than 12 square miles.
在那裏，不足12平方英里（約合32平方公里）的土地上容納了50多萬人。
But I wasn’t there to gamble.
但我不是去賭博的。
Following a precedent I’d established in my very first Frugal Traveler column, when I toured Las Vegas without going to the famed Strip,
寫第一篇窮遊世界(Frugal Traveler)專欄時，我曾去拉斯維加斯旅遊，卻沒有去大名鼎鼎的長街(Strip)。
I was determined to break the shell of Macau’s opulent exterior and see what lay beneath the surface.
遵循這個先例，我決定打破澳門奢華的外殼，看一看錶象下面是什麼。
During a quick two-night trip, taking the ferry across the Pearl River Estuary, I found it was the perfect place for a getaway from the noise and intense urban compactness of Hong Kong.
在短暫的兩夜遊期間，我乘渡船穿過珠江口，發現澳門是擺脫香港的喧囂和嚴重的城市擁擠的絕佳去處。
Owing to its colonial past, Macau, with its cobblestone streets, old Catholic churches and narrow alleyways, has an almost European feel to it, along with an interesting local cuisine that fuses Portuguese and Chinese flavors.
因爲曾是殖民地，有着鵝卵石街道、古老的天主教堂和狹窄的巷弄的澳門，幾乎有一種歐洲的感覺。當地的飲食也非常有趣，結合了葡萄牙和中國的風味。
And my focus, naturally, was putting this trip together without causing undue strain on my budget.
我的重點，自然是在完成這趟旅行的同時，不至於讓我的預算過於緊張。
Macau was one of the first Asian settlements to be forced into the yoke of European colonization and the last to shed it, achieving full independence from Portugal in 1999.
澳門是亞洲最早被迫捲入歐洲殖民統治的地區之一，也是最後一個擺脫殖民統治的地區，1999年才從葡萄牙完全分離出來。
As with Hong Kong, China administers Macau but employs a somewhat laissez-faire, capitalist-friendly approach.
和香港一樣，澳門在中國治下，但後者採用了一種有些自由放任的、對資本主義友好的方式。
There are no visa requirements for Americans staying in Macau fewer than 30 days (you will need to bring your passport).
美國人在澳門停留30天以內無需辦理簽證（但需帶上護照）。
The TurboJet ferry ride from Hong Kong (150 to 200 Hong Kong dollars for an economy fare, about $20 to $25) is reasonably quick and comfortable.
從香港乘坐噴射飛航客輪（經濟艙150到200港幣，約合20到25美元）還算快捷、舒適。
Ferries leave from various spots in Hong Kong regularly, so if you miss one, there’s no need to worry.
客輪定時從香港多地發船，因此即便錯過一趟也不用擔心。
(Be more cautious when you’re leaving Macau — it’s easier to end up on the wrong ferry.)
（但離開澳門時要更加小心謹慎——因爲比較容易上錯船。）
My attack plan was simple: to see as much as I could, by foot and by public transportation.
我的作戰計劃很簡單：用步行和乘坐公共交通的方式儘可能地多看一些東西。
Macau is traditionally divided into three sections: the peninsula and the islands of Coloane and Taipa.
澳門傳統上分三個地區：澳門半島、路環島區和氹仔。
(A fourth region of land reclaimed from the ocean, Cotai, now connects Coloane and Taipa and is the home to many of the newer casinos.)
（還有一個地區是填海造陸後形成的路氹，現在將路環和氹仔連接在了一起，那裏有很多比較新的賭場。）
I particularly had my eye on rustic Coloane Village in the south.
我尤其關注澳門南部頗有鄉土氣息的路環村。
Though I had no plans to indulge in the casinos, one lesson I’ve learned in my travels is that where there’s gambling, cheap rooms follow — it’s how they lure you in.
儘管我不打算沉溺於賭場，但我從多次旅行中得出的一個經驗是，有賭博的地方就有便宜的房間——這是他們吸引你過去的方式。
I was able to land a very comfortable, relatively luxurious room at the Sofitel on the western side of the peninsula for 650 Hong Kong dollars, a little over $80.
我得以在澳門半島西部的索菲特(Sofitel)酒店住進了一個非常舒適，並且相對豪華的房間，價格是650港幣，相當於80美元多一點。
Close to the center of the city, it was an ideal jumping-off point.
因爲接近市中心，那裏是理想的起點。
I was able to check another essential off the list by walking to Yin He Dian Xun (roughly, Galaxy Telecommunications) and purchasing a 500-gigabyte SIM card from a very helpful young woman for 50 Macanese patacas (about $6).
我還買到了清單上列出的另一件必需品。我走到銀河電訊，以50澳門元的價格從一個非常樂於助人的年輕女士那裏買了一張500G的SIM卡。
Ah, yes, the currency.
哦，對了，還有貨幣。
The Macanese pataca and Hong Kong dollar are separate currencies but virtually interchangeable in Macau.
澳門元和港幣是不同的貨幣，但在澳門幾乎可以互換。
Change will sometimes come in patacas, sometimes in Hong Kong dollars.
找的零錢有時候是澳門元，有時候是港幣。
A dollar is, however, slightly more valuable than a pataca.
不過港幣比澳門元略微更值錢一些。
If you’re considering making a big souvenir purchase (like gold or jade jewelry, which is plentiful on the main drag of Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro) either use a credit card with no foreign transaction fee, or walk into a bank to exchange for patacas —
如果考慮大手筆地購買紀念品（比如新馬路的主幹道上應有盡有的金器或玉飾），要麼用信用卡，無外幣兌換費，要麼去銀行換澳門元。
I was able to do both without difficulty.
我使用兩種方式時都沒遇到困難。
Senado Square, within walking distance of my hotel, was a good place to begin exploring.
從我住的酒店步行可達的議事廳前地是一個開始探索的好地方。
Beautiful old yellow and pink pastel buildings with arched doorways and green shuttered windows frame the historic square, which is paved with small tiles.
具有歷史意義的廣場上鋪了小地磚，四周坐落着漂亮的黃色和粉色建築，帶有拱形門廊和綠色百葉窗，風格淡雅。
It was a perfect place to stroll and enjoy the egg tart I’d purchased for 9 dollars from Koi Kei Bakery.
這裏很適合一邊散步，一邊品嚐我花9澳門元從鉅記手信買的蛋撻。
The egg tart is one of Macau’s signature delicacies, a local interpretation of the Portuguese pastel de nata — perfectly creamy custard with a pleasantly caramelized top, encased within a delicate, flaky pastry cup.
蛋撻是澳門的標誌性美食之一，是當地對葡萄牙蛋撻的演繹——光滑細膩的奶油蛋羹上面是一層漂亮的焦糖，包裹在脆薄的杯狀酥餅裏。
Another distinctive item is the pork chop bun.
另一款特色美食是豬扒包。
I stopped into the celebrated Tai Lei Loi Kei, a nearly 50-year-old Macanese chain, and paid 48 dollars for a small, bone-in pork chop that had been slapped somewhat unceremoniously onto a buttered white roll.
我停下腳步，走進澳門有近50年曆史的知名連鎖大利來記，花48澳門元買了一小份帶骨豬扒。豬扒被隨意地放在了一塊塗有黃油的白色小圓麪包上。
Fortunately the meat was simply seasoned and well cooked (just be careful not to break a tooth).
不錯的是，肉經過了簡單地調味，並且是十成熟（務必小心，不要咬掉牙）。
In addition to its cuisine, Macau has memorable architecture.
除了飲食外，澳門還有令人難忘的建築。
Catholic influence is still very much present, at least aesthetically.
天主教的影響依然非常明顯，至少在審美上如此。
St. Dominic’s Church, a beautifully restored, custard-colored 16th-century structure, is free to enter, as is a three-story art museum housed in the church’s bell tower.
經過精心修復後，蛋奶色的16世紀建築玫瑰堂免費開放，位於教堂鐘樓裏的三層藝術博物館也是免費的。
I looked over the icons and relics of the church on display, including beautiful old wooden carvings.
我仔細欣賞了展出的玫瑰堂的聖象和聖人遺物，包括古老的精美木雕。
Other worthy architectural attractions include the Ruins of St.
其他值得一看的建築景觀包括大三巴牌坊。
Paul, a grand stone facade that is one of the few remaining pieces of a centuries-old complex.
這是一面宏偉的石壁，是一處有幾百年歷史的建築物的正面外牆，也是其留存下來的少許殘垣斷壁之一。
While there, I made the steep hike up to the adjacent Fortaleza do Monte, which provided an excellent view of the city.
在那裏，我沿着陡坡爬上了旁邊的大炮臺，一覽全市盛景。
I could walk to the ruins and St. Dominic’s from my hotel, but despite Macau’s compact size, not everything is walkable.
我可以從酒店走路去大三巴牌坊和玫瑰堂，但儘管澳門很袖珍，卻不是哪裏都適合步行的。
I would not recommend driving in Macau, nor riding one of the city’s ubiquitous scooters.
在澳門，我不建議開車，也不建議騎當地隨處可見的電動摩托車。
I found a bike rental shop called Si Toi in Taipa that charged 20 dollars per hour (only $2.50, remember) but I ultimately decided on the bus: I found it cheap and fairly reliable.
我在氹仔找到了一個叫時代的摩托車租賃行，每小時20澳門元（記住，僅2.50美元），但我最終決定坐巴士：我覺得巴士便宜並且相當可靠。
Unless you have something called a Macaupass (which I did not, and purchase locations are annoyingly scarce), you will need coins.
除非你有一種叫澳門通的東西（我沒有，能買到的地方少得令人惱火），否則需準備硬幣。
Lots of coins.
大量硬幣。
And they don’t make change on the buses, so get used to walking around with a pocketful of patacas.
澳門的巴士不找零，因此要習慣四處溜達時口袋裏裝滿澳門元。
(Local businesses and banks can help you make change if you’re hard up.)
（如果手頭硬幣不夠，當地的商家和銀行能幫你換。）
I hopped the 26A bus to Coloane, eager to see the rustic, more peaceful side of Macau.
我跳上開往路環的26A路巴士，急切地想看看澳門鄉村的、更平靜的一面。
(A quick note on signage: Every official sign in Macau will be in both Portuguese and Chinese.
（快速說一下指示牌：澳門所有正式的指示牌都是中葡雙語的。
I found this somewhat curious, as I didn’t hear a word of Portuguese my entire stay.
我覺得有點奇怪，因爲在整個澳門之旅期間，我沒聽到一個葡萄牙詞語。
I asked Neal, a server at the cute Cafe Cheri, if he spoke Portuguese or knew anyone who did.
我問在小巧精緻的餐廳常喜當服務員的尼爾(Neal)會不會說葡語，或者認不認識說葡語的人。
Well, he hesitated, No, not really.
嗯，他有些猶豫，不會，不太會。
Did anyone in Macau speak Portuguese? Yes, I think in some restaurants.)
澳門有人說葡語嗎？有，我想在有些餐廳有。
Coloane Village was quiet, almost sleepy, when I hopped off the bus by the roundabout near Eanes Park.
當我在恩尼斯花園附近的環島旁邊跳下巴士時，路環村一片安靜，幾乎算是人跡罕至了。
It was, in other words, exactly what I was seeking.
換句話說，這正是我想要的。
I began walking north up the coast, stopping for another excellent 9-dollar egg tart at Lord Stow’s Bakery.
我開始沿着海岸一路往北走，並在安德魯餅店停下，又買了9元的蛋撻。
Colorfully painted houses stood on stilts in the bay, China a mere 1,000 feet to the west.
海灣地區，刷成五顏六色的房屋被用木柱支撐着，僅1000英尺（約合300米）以西便是中國大陸。
Fishermen hung their catch outside their homes, and every now and then there was the distinctive clack of mah-jongg tiles.
漁民將捕到的魚晾曬在屋外，偶爾還會聽到麻將牌發出的獨特的啪嗒聲。
I wound my way down Avenida de Cinco de Outubro, in the shade of thick-trunked ficus rumphii trees with aerial roots, like banyan trees.
我頂着樹幹粗壯的心葉榕的樹蔭，沿十月初五日街朝南走。
I eventually found myself in a beautiful cobblestone plaza with a fountain on one end and the beautiful, bright yellow Chapel of St.
心葉榕根系發達，很像菩提樹。
Francis on the other.
最後，我發現自己來到了一處美麗的鵝卵石廣場，廣場的一頭是一座噴泉，另一頭是聖方濟各聖堂。
I dined al fresco at Cafe Nga Tim on a 58-dollar dish of rice and curried prawns and watched evening set in.
在雅憩花園餐廳，我花58元吃了一頓米飯搭配咖喱蝦的戶外晚餐，靜觀夜幕降臨。
The casinos? Didn’t need them.
賭場？根本不需要。
They do provide a useful benefit, though: When it came time to head back to the ferry terminal, I happily used the hotel’s free shuttle bus.
不過它們的確提供了一個便利：到要返回輪渡碼頭時，我開心地乘坐了酒店的免費穿梭巴士。
