出席場合,到底該怎麼美妝?

The number one tip for getting ready on the red carpet?” asks Cassandra Huysentruyt Grey, founder of LA beauty boutique Violet Grey: “Give yourself extra time to get comfortable in your look. You’re thrown into this high-pressure environment and if you don’t feel comfortable it will show in your body language and all over your face.”

“走紅毯的首要美妝訣竅是什麼？”洛杉磯Violet Grey美容院創始人卡桑德拉?胡森特魯特?格雷(Cassandra Huysentruyt Grey)說：“自己得多花點時間打造賞心悅目形象。突然身處紅地毯時，你會頓感壓力山大；自己感覺不爽，肢體語言與臉上表情就會顯露無遺。”

There’s something inordinately stressful about preparing for formal occasions, even if it’s just the annual office shindig. So imagine the extra pressure stars face at the Golden Globes, next week’s Baftas, and the Oscars, when the imaginative detail that looked so good when rehearsed with the hairdresser has the potential to morph into a “red carpet fail”?

即便只是一場辦公室尋常年度盛會，爲正式場合打理形象也是壓力巨大。所以明星大腕參加金球獎(Golden Globes)、英國電影和電視藝術學院獎(Baftas)以及奧斯卡(Oscars)等重量級頒獎典禮時遭受的壓力有多大也就不難理解了：當初與專用髮型師對每個富含想象力的細節排練得無可挑剔，很可能最後演變成“紅地毯上的大出醜”。

“Beauty on the red carpet is unique,” adds Grey, who has an insight into its challenges. Married to Paramount Pictures chairman and chief executive, Brad Grey, she has sat through countless speeches and walked innumerable red carpets. “The lighting is pretty bad,” she says, “and even the most confident woman suddenly finds herself in the uncomfortable position of being in what is essentially a petting zoo. Beauty — whether it’s lips or hair — can be an aide to get in character.”

“爲走紅毯美容化妝是很獨特的。”格雷補充道，她對參加各種典禮面臨的挑戰有着深刻理解。作爲派拉蒙影業公司(Paramount Pictures)董事長兼CEO布萊德?格雷(Brad Grey)的妻子，她聆聽過無數的演講、走過數不清的紅毯。“舞臺燈光特別強烈刺目。”她說，“置身在寵物動物園似的環境中，即便平時最爲自信的女人也會突然之間變得不知所措。美容化妝（不管是嘴脣還是頭髮）可以爲適應角色助上一臂之力。”

Luckily, there are plenty of aides — from the eyebrow specialist, to the body-polish expert to the eyelash person to the plastic surgeon. It does, as the saying goes, take a village. Naturopath and facialist Dr Nigma Talib, who looks after Sienna Miller and Penélope Cruz and who has clinics in London and at the Four Seasons Doheny in Los Angeles, starts getting calls from the agents several weeks before. If the “Talent” is still eating sugar (imagine!), Talib gets them off it, and cuts out gluten, dairy and alcohol to reduce any signs of facial “bloating”. “You don’t have time to get blood tests back,” she explains, “but everything starts in the gut, so I prescribe good probiotics and sleep support.” (Usually a herbal supplement called Ashwagandha, which Talib says is great for fatigue and lack of concentration — maybe it helps you to sit through all the speeches). On the actual day she’ll give her clients a facial that includes a chemical peel, LED light therapy, and applications of hyaluronic acid and jellyfish collagen. (Not one of her vegan clients has complained about the jellyfish, but then this is Hollywood).

幸運的是，增色添彩的幫手比比皆是——從美眉與身體磨砂專家、睫毛師再到整容醫師，應有盡有。俗話說得好：衆心成城。專爲大明星西耶娜?米勒(Sienna Miller)以及佩內洛普?克魯茲(Penélope Cruz)服務的理療師及面部美容師塔利布醫生(Dr Nigma Talib)在倫敦及洛杉磯多希尼四季酒店(Four Seasons Doheny in Los Angeles)都開有美容診所，一般都是好幾周前就接到客戶的預約電話。如果該明星客戶仍在吃糖（假想而已！），塔利布就不讓他們再吃它，而是讓他們停吃麩質與奶製品以及戒酒以便使臉部“消腫”。“諸位不可能在短時間內把血液等各項指數降至正常。”她解釋道，“但所有毛病都始於內臟，所以我給對方開了益生素以及讓其保持充足睡眠。”（她通常給客戶開印度人蔘，這種草藥補劑對緩解疲勞與治癒注意力不集中療效顯著——可讓對方精神抖擻聽完整個演講）。客戶來就診時，她會給對方做包括醫學換膚、LED光療以及施用玻尿酸(Hyaluronic Acid)與水母膠原蛋白(jellyfish collagen)在內的臉部美容。（對於使用水母膠原蛋白，她的素食客戶中沒有人抱怨，但這是在巨星雲集的好萊塢）。

Yes, yes, yes, but what about the hard stuff? I hear you ask. Where do they all go for their Botox and facelifts? In LA, ever since the Kardashians made him famous, Dr Simon Ourian is the go-to in Beverly Hills for that model-perfect look, and has 1.4m Instagram followers to show for it. Santa Monica’s Dr Karyn Grossman is a little more discreet and popular with middle-aged male celebrities. In London, the name that all the top facialists refer their clients to for injectables is Dr Tapan Patel.

對！這些難伺候的巨星大腕怎麼辦？你們會這麼提問。他們去哪兒注射肉毒桿菌與做面部拉皮術呢？在洛杉磯，卡戴珊姐姐(the Kardashians)讓西蒙?奧裏安醫生(Dr Simon Ourian)聲名遠揚後，其美容診所就成了比弗利山莊(Beverly Hills)那些意欲打造完美模特形象的好萊塢明星的“聖地”，奧裏安醫生擁有的Instagram粉絲高達140萬人。洛杉磯聖莫尼卡(Santa Monica)的卡里恩?格羅斯曼(Dr Karyn Grossman)醫生則行事低調，在中年男星中有超高人氣。倫敦的明星若是注射美容的話，面部頂級美容師無一例外都會向其推薦塔潘?帕特爾醫生(Dr Tapan Patel)。

Perhaps surprisingly, according to Huysentruyt Grey, it’s the younger women who are tweaking and fixing. “They’re altering their looks seemingly because it makes them feel more comfortable in their skin, but it also makes them more bankable.”

胡森特魯特?格雷說，年輕女性青睞整形美容(tweaking and fixing)，這一點有些出乎意料。“她們整容的原因似乎是增添自信心，而且還讓自己更具吸金力。”

When it comes to make-up, however, there has been a movement towards stealthy understatement: as anyone who’s ever had to attend a black-tie event understands, one spritz of hairspray too many, one overdone smoky eye, and you’ve instantly added 10 years to your natural age.

但說起施用粉黛，如今的發展趨勢則是悄無聲息地化淡妝：任何着正式晚禮服參加社交活動的人都清楚，噴過多髮膠或是薰眼過度，立馬會顯得比實際年齡老上十歲。

Of course, natural doesn’t really mean barefaced. Huysentruyt Grey. cites “the quintessential natural style of European women who seem to have made that confident, effortless polish their signature,” as an example. Isabelle Huppert at the Golden Globes exemplified the look — a flawless complexion, dark red lip, and classic side-parted natural hair. Michelle Williams (pictured below), Julianne Moore, Cate Blanchett equally, never seem to make a bad move.

當然，天然模樣並不真正意味着素顏。胡森特魯特?格雷列舉了“典型天然風格的歐洲女性（她們似乎崇尚那種增添自信心、不費力妝扮）”的例子。參加金球獎頒獎典禮的伊薩貝爾?於佩爾(Isabelle Huppert)就是展現上述形象的活生生例子——完美的膚色、殷紅色的嘴脣以及傳統的自然偏分發型。米歇爾?威廉姆斯、朱麗安?摩爾以及凱特?布蘭切特似乎也從不越雷池半步。

“There’s a temptation to try and match the gravitas of the event with hair and make-up,” says Alex Babsky, Lanc?me’s UK make-up ambassador (Lanc?me has been the beauty partner of Bafta for 17 years, which easily end up looking overly regal.”

“我們參加莊重活動時，似乎總想收拾髮型與濃妝重彩。”蘭蔻(Lanc?me)英國彩妝大使阿列克斯?巴布斯基(Alex Babsky)說。（蘭蔻已連續17年擔任英國電影與電視藝術學院獎頒獎典禮官方化妝品合作伙伴，所以最終的頒獎典禮很容易盡顯奢侈豪華。）

Babsky has made up everyone from Sarah Jessica Parker to Lupita Nyong’o and Thandie Newton and prefers a matt finish foundation generally (he loves Lanc?me’s Teint Idole Ultra, ￡30). “When you can’t be sure of the lighting it’s always a safer bet: an all over glowy finish can look sweaty in the wrong conditions.”

巴布斯基爲從莎拉?傑西卡?帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)到露皮塔?尼永奧(Lupita Nyong'o)及桑迪?牛頓 (Thandie Newton)在內的衆多明星美妝，他通常愛用亞光粉底（matt finish foundation，他酷愛售價30英鎊的蘭蔻超輕透持久粉底液 (Teint Idole Ultra)）。“當你不清楚舞臺燈光實際效果時，這樣做始終較爲保險：美妝得太過紅光滿面在糟糕的典禮場合會給人大汗淋漓的感覺。”

Equally, hair needs to be kept simple. “If the dresses are couture and very formal, it’s less ageing to play down the hair,” says Nicola Clarke, who has looked after Kate Winslet, Cate Blanchett and Daisy Ridley for Bafta, and is rarely seen without a can of R+Co Vicious Strong Hold Flexible Hairspray ($29) and Color Wow’s Root Cover Up (￡28.50) for stray greys.

髮型同樣得儘可能簡約。“穿高檔正裝的話，簡單髮型就顯得比實際年齡年輕。”尼古拉?克拉克(Nicola Clarke)說，他負責爲參加英國電影與電視藝術學院獎頒獎典禮的凱特?溫絲萊特(Kate Winslet)、凱特?布蘭切特以及黛茜?雷德利(Daisy Ridley)美妝，對於間或稀疏灰白頭髮的明星，他總是使用R+Co Vicious Strong Hold Flexible Hairspray強力柔性發膠與Color Wow可掩蓋髮根再生的Root Cover Up。

But is it worth the effort? “Recently there’s been a subtle shift in LA with a lot of women feeling they’re somehow diminishing their position as a feminist by putting effort into their look,” says Grey. “I guess their point is, is it politically correct to wear millions of dollars of jewellery or to be spending so much time choosing a dress? But it’s a very serious part of the industry — you’re representing a multibillion-dollar movie franchise, or a designer brand, and the images that result will affect your career. Plus, it’s Hollywood, and you’re in the entertainment business! Let’s bring some joy and fun.”

但是，如此大動干戈是否值得？“最近，洛杉磯時尚界悄然發生了變化：很多女性覺得對自我形象如此興師動衆，從某種程度上會降低自己女權主義者的地位。”格雷說，“我覺得實質問題是：佩戴價值幾百萬美元的首飾或是在穿着上大把燒錢是否在政治立場上正確？而這又是時尚界的重頭戲——這些女明星是票房幾十億美元電影產業與知名品牌的形象代言人，其市場效應反過來也會影響自己的職業生涯。除此之外，這兒是巨星雲集的好萊塢，這些女明星身處娛樂業中心！還是讓我們給世界帶些開心快樂吧。”