環球之旅:重走肖申克之路,消費救贖

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Richland County refers to itself, because of its character and geographical location, as the "heart of Ohio." But for a large number of visitors, it is better known as the home of perhaps the most storied prison in movie history.

裏奇蘭德縣因其特徵與地理位置，號稱“俄亥俄的心臟'。但對於許多遊客來說，它更爲知名的身份恐怕是電影史上最傳奇的監獄之鄉。

Despite seven Oscar nominations, including one for best picture, "The Shawshank Redemption" — starring Tim Robbins as one (very) unfortunate accountant by the name of Andy Dufresne and Morgan Freeman as a convict named Red — barely made back its $25 million budget following its 1994 premiere. But after significant video sales and seemingly endless showings on TNT (151 hours of total televised airtime last year alone), Americans fell in love with the TV equivalent of a houseguest who won’t leave.

《肖申克的救贖》(Shawshank Redemption)主演蒂姆·羅賓斯(Tim Robbins)在劇中扮演（極其）倒黴的金融師安迪·杜弗倫(Andy Dufresne)，另一主演摩根·弗里曼(Morgan Freeman)扮演囚犯瑞德(Red)。儘管這部電影獲得了七項奧斯卡提名，包括一項最佳影片獎，但在1994年首映之後，2500萬美元的投資幾乎沒能賺回。但是後來影碟大賣，TNT電視臺在似乎永無止境地播放此片（僅去年一年，在電視上的放映時長就有151小時），美國人愛上了屏幕上這部隨時可見的片子。

But the film, based on a 1982 Stephen King short story, doesn’t just resonate because it’s always on. " ‘Shawshank’ flatters us while still residing in a real, powerful place," is how Will Leitch, who reviews movies for the sports site Deadspin, explains the story’s staying power. "We imagine ourselves as Andy Dufresne and want to believe we would be as strong as he was. Our daily struggles aren’t nearly as overpowering as his, but he still chooses to live, to survive — that feeling of needing to live that’s universal, and timeless."

該電影改編自史蒂芬·金(Stephen King)1982年的一篇短篇小說，可是，之所以能引起如此強烈的共鳴，並不僅僅是因爲它總在播放。“看了《肖申克的救贖》，我們深感幸運，因爲我們仍然生活於一個真實而有力的地方。'運動網(Deadspin)的電影評論作家威爾·雷奇(Will Leitch)如此解釋這個故事爲何如此強大。“我們把自己想像成安迪·杜弗倫，希望像他那樣頑強。我們的日常鬥爭遠遠不如他那樣難以承受，他卻依然選擇了活下去，逃出生天——求生的渴望就是這樣普遍而永恆。'

All of this ardor helped boost the recent fortunes of Mansfield, Ashland and Upper Sandusky, Ohio, three towns that share 13 sites that appeared in the movie. (The Tappan Stove Company, Westinghouse and General Motors plants have all closed.)

這狂熱的一切爲俄亥俄州曼斯菲爾德、亞什蘭和上桑達斯基帶來了好運，因爲本片有13個拍攝地位於這三個小鎮（塔潘竈具公司、西屋電氣和通用汽車廠都關閉了）。

Tourism has increased every year since "Shawshank" had its premiere; according to the Mansfield/Richland County Convention and Visitors Bureau, the movie brought in more than 18,000 visitors, and produced an estimated $3 million boost to the local economy in 2013. The enthusiasm is so intense that the bureau’s web page now directs drivers to each of the Andy and Red focal points in the form of the newly designated Shawshank Trail while also recommending all the Redemption I.P.A.s, Reformatory Red Wines, Jail House Javas and Shawshank Bundt Cakes they can purchase along the way.

自從《肖申克的救贖》公映之後，此地的旅遊業逐年增長。根據曼斯菲爾德/裏奇蘭縣會議和旅遊管理局的統計，2013年，該電影爲本地帶來了18000多位遊客和大約300萬美元的經濟增長。鑑於人們對此片的熱愛如此強烈，如今，該旅遊局的網頁直接爲司機指出去往安迪和瑞德自由之路的幾個關鍵地點，最新設計了一條遊覽路線“肖申克之路'，推薦各種救贖相關產品，比如看守所紅酒、牢房咖啡以及肖申克蘋果醬蛋糕，一路上都可以買到。

裏奇蘭德縣因其特徵與地理位置，號稱“俄亥俄的心臟'。但對於許多遊客來說，它更爲知名的身份恐怕是電影史上最傳奇的監獄之鄉。

(If one were so inclined, one could consume a Redemption Pizza Pie at Two Cousins’ Pizza, wash it down with a Prison Break Soda at Richland Carrousel Park and then eat a scene from the movie made out of chocolate at Squirrel’s Den, all within a block radius of one another in downtown Mansfield. )

如果你實在喜歡，可以在表兄弟比薩屋(Two Cousins’ Pizza)買一份救贖比薩派，在裏奇蘭旋轉木馬公園喝一杯越獄汽水，然後去松鼠窩餐廳(Squirrel’s Den)品嚐一份由巧克力製成的劇中情景。這幾家地方都位於曼斯菲爾德市中心，處於一個街區之內。

In May I went there to explore, enjoy and eat my way through the county that will celebrate the film’s 20th anniversary Aug. 29 to 31.

今年5月我曾去那裏遊覽過，一路看景一路吃喝。8月29日至31日，這個縣還舉辦了該電影公映20週年的慶祝活動。

"I saw who the real fans of that movie were," recalled Bob Gunton, the 68-year-old actor who portrayed the evil Warden Samuel Norton, after he paid a visit to the area last summer, "and the movie’s message really connected with them."

“我能看出誰是這部電影的真愛粉。'鮑勃·岡頓(Bob Gunton)回憶道。這位68歲的演員在劇中扮演邪惡的典獄長塞繆爾·諾頓(Samuel Norton)，去年夏天曾經來這裏遊覽。他說：“真愛粉渴望觸摸劇中的一切。'

The connection should be apparent on Labor Day weekend when the region will once again double as a town just outside Portland, Me., where an innocent man found freedom, his inmate pal found that "hope is a good thing" and the extremely corrupt head of the prison found , he ended up finding the business end of an office pistol — but that was a good thing for the prisoners.

這種渴望太明顯了。尤其是在那個勞動節的週末，緬因州波特蘭外的這個小鎮就要承擔另一重身份——因爲就在這裏，一個清白無辜的人重新發現了自由，他的獄友發現“希望是個好東西'，而極其腐敗的典獄長髮現——嗯，他發現辦公室裏那支手槍果真是自殺利器……但對於囚犯來說，這是件好事。

My first stop was near the entrance to Malabar Farm State Park in Lucas, Ohio, across from one very giving tree (the old oak that marked where Andy buried directions to guide Red toward his post-jailbreak home), while offering the type of scenery and sensibility that Norman Rockwell would just as soon live in as paint.

我那場旅程的第一步始於俄亥俄州盧卡斯馬拉巴農莊州立公園大門附近，對面是一顆愛心樹（在電影中，安迪在這棵橡樹下埋了一封信，指引瑞德去往自己越獄之後的新家園），周圍的風景和情調肯定會讓諾曼·羅克韋爾（Norman Rockwell，美國畫家——譯註）一見傾心，立即定居此地。

"The terrain is so completely different south of Mansfield than it is north of the town," said Mr. Gunton who, as an avid biker, pedaled through much of the landscape when he wasn’t filming. "North is pretty flat, and in the south, there’s quite a bit of elevation. I would have a completely different experience depending on which area I’d ride."

“這是曼斯菲爾德南部，地形跟小鎮北部截然不同。'岡頓先生說。他是個狂熱的自行車運動愛好者，不拍電影的時候，他總是在這片美景中騎行。“北部相當平坦，而南部呢，海拔卻有點兒高。兩個地方騎車，是完全不同的感受。'

This 917-acre oasis that is Malabar Farm has been part of the Ohio State Parks system since 1972 and is best known for being the longtime home of the author Louis Bromfield, who won the 1927 Best Novel Pulitzer Prize for "Early Autumn." But for the purposes of my pilgrimage, it also happens to be across the street from Andy’s solitary oak, within a field that looked, as he told Red, "like something out of a Robert Frost poem."

這片方圓917英畝的綠洲就是馬拉巴爾農莊，早在1972年就已經成爲俄亥俄州立公園體系的一部分，最爲知名的事蹟就是作家路易斯·布羅姆菲爾德(Louis Bromfield)曾長期定居於此，並憑藉作品《初秋》(Early Autumn)獲得1927年的普利策最佳小說獎。但是，我在這場朝聖之旅中還發現一個巧合，它的街道對面恰好就是安迪那棵孤獨的橡樹，周圍的田野正如安迪告訴瑞德的那樣，“恍如來自羅伯特·弗羅斯特(Robert Frost)的詩篇'。

Because of a thunderstorm in 2011, the photo op is half the tree it used to be. The overall site (along with a cabin featured in the opening scene where Andy is about to confront his cheating wife with a loaded gun and an empty bottle) is still a nice enough visual, but the real gem is the adjoining park, with Bromfield’s 32-room Western Reserve-style home smack dab in the middle of it all.

由於2011年的一場雷暴，這棵大樹只剩下一半，昔日之美已成絕版珍藏。這個地方（包括一座小屋，在電影開場中，安迪帶着一支上膛的槍和一個空酒瓶來到這裏，打算與紅杏出牆的妻子對質）依然風景如畫，但真正的珍寶是它毗鄰的公園，裏面有布羅姆菲爾德西部保留地風格的故居，共32間臥室，恰好位於整片景區的正中心。

The tour included everything from a pair of Grandma Moses paintings (a "thank you" present to Bromfield for writing an introduction to her 1947 autobiogrpahy, "Grandma Moses: American Primitive") to a walk-through of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall’s honeymoon suite (Mr. Bogart was a longtime friend of the author’s, and the couple had their 1945 wedding at his home).

作家故居之遊包羅萬象，比如觀賞摩西奶奶（Grandma Moses，大器晚成的美國風俗畫家，70多歲纔開始繪畫——譯註）的兩幅畫，那是她送給布羅姆菲爾德的禮物，感謝他爲自己1947年出版的自傳《摩西奶奶：美國原住民》(Grandma Moses: American Primitive)作序。還可以在演員亨弗萊·鮑嘉(Humphrey Bogart)和勞倫·白考爾(Lauren Bacall)的蜜月套房裏匆匆遊覽一番。鮑嘉是布羅姆菲爾德的多年好友，1945年，這對夫婦就是在這座莊園舉行了婚禮。

"It was funny to go outside my door, while they were filming, and see a sheriff’s car there for security during the tree scene," said Sondra Hupp, a Malabar tour guide when she isn’t working at a local bird sanctuary. Ms. Hupp also lived next to the property where the director Frank Darabont shot the scene. "That was the first thing that came to my head, thinking there might have been a prison break" from the town’s correctional facility.

“很有意思。那天我走出房門，見他們正在拍橡樹那場戲，還有一輛巡邏車在維護治安。'桑德拉·哈普(Sondra Hupp)說。她在本地的鳥類保護區工作，也在馬拉巴爾農莊兼職當導遊。導演弗蘭克·達拉邦特(Frank Darabont)拍攝電影的地點就是哈普女士家的隔壁。“我腦子裏冒出的第一個念頭是，是不是有人越獄了，從鎮上這座勞改營逃了出去？'

The Malabar Farm Restaurant, in an 1820 building within the park, has a reputation for its hamburgers (the restaurant uses beef from cattle raised next door). From there it was off to see the centerpiece of the Shawshank experience, the Ohio State Reformatory, which closed in 1990, four years before the site was immortalized on film.

馬拉巴爾農莊餐廳位於公園內一座1820年的房屋內，因漢堡而遠近聞名，該餐廳的牛肉由隔壁的養牛戶供應。從那裏望出去，我們可以看到肖申克傳奇的中心標誌物——俄亥俄州立看守所。它在1990年關閉，四年之後，又在電影中成爲永恆。

"The O.S.R. had 80,000 visitors last year," said the president of the tourism bureau, Lee Tasseff. "The film went from saving it from the wrecking ball to becoming a tourism icon."

“俄亥俄州立看守所去年迎來了八萬名遊客，'旅遊局局長李·塔瑟夫(Lee Tasseff)說。“這部電影救了它，把它從一片破舊樓房變成了旅遊勝地。'

Keith Fischer, a volunteer guide, knows every inch of the 250,000-square-foot fortress, which opened in 1896 and is now a state landmark.

吉斯·費舍爾是一名義務導遊，這座25萬平方英尺堡壘的每一寸土地他都瞭如指掌。它1896年開始投入使用，而今已經是該州的地標。

"We’ve got a haunted prison tour happening tonight," Mr. Fischer said as we walked past walls of rusted-out cells. "Lots of amateur ghost hunters come here, due to the place’s past."

“我們今晚的監獄遊會有鬼魂出沒。'費舍爾先生說着，帶我們走過一面面鏽蝕的牢房牆壁。“由於這個地方有着獨特的經歷，好多業餘捉鬼師都來了。'

Much of the film was shot on these grounds, and many of the props remain, including the sewage pipe Andy spent 19 years breaking into, and eventually crawled out of, to freedom.

這部電影的多數鏡頭都拍攝於此地，許多道具保留至今，包括安迪花費了十九年終於鑿通並進入的那條下水道。爬過這條污濁的臭水河，他終於獲得了自由。

Other nods to notable plot points within the facility include the other half of the storm-split oak tree propped outside the entrance, and Warden Norton’s office, complete with the safe where he discovered Andy’s nub of a rock hammer in a hollowed-out Bible. Last summer, a group of tourists was lucky enough to bump into the coldhearted disciplinarian himself.

此地還有其他幾件標註電影情節點的物品：從雷劈中生還的另外半棵橡樹而今探出了大門外；諾頓典獄長的辦公室以及保險櫃，他在櫃裏發現了一本中間挖空的聖經，裝着安迪那把磨損嚴重的岩石錘。去年夏天，一羣太過幸運的遊客竟在這裏偶遇了冷血典獄長本人。

"I was taking the tour," Mr. Gunton said, "and sat behind the desk right when about 60 people come into the very same room. Immediately the place was lit up with cellphone cameras.

“當時我正在遊覽，'岡頓先生說，“坐在辦公桌前，這時大約有六十個人走進房間。頓時，拍照聲四起，整個房間被手機閃光燈照得一片雪亮。'

"So I held an impromptu news conference," he said, "explaining how we shot various scenes, including the warden’s demise, while sitting in that seat, and the logistics that went through that."

“我就開了一個臨時的新聞發佈會。'他說，“解釋我們當年怎樣拍攝各種場景，包括典獄長是怎樣坐在那個座位上死掉的，還有這裏的後勤體系。'

The 118-year-old reformatory, which resembles the Tower of London, is still visited by ex-convicts. "About once a week we’ll get a former inmate in here," Mr. Fischer said as we made our way through the world’s largest free-standing steel cellblock. "They get some closure. And it gives them some new perspective. They always looked up at the tower. Now they can go up there and look down."

這座看守所有118年的歷史，造型有點像倫敦塔，時至今日仍有昔日的囚徒陸續來訪。“大概每週就有一個曾在這兒坐牢的人故地重遊。'費舍爾先生說着，帶我們穿過天下最大的獨立鋼鐵牢房區。“他們被禁錮之後，獲得了全新的視角。坐牢時他們總是仰望那座高塔，而現在，他們可以登上塔頂，向下俯視。'

The next day I drove 46 miles to Upper Sandusky, to pay a visit to the Shawshank Woodshop, the closest thing the area has to a full-on museum devoted to the movie. This was where Red and the rest of his crew heard Andy play Mozart’s "Marriage of Figaro" over the prison sound system and, as Red narrates, "It was like some beautiful bird flapped into our drab little cage and made those walls dissolve away, and for the briefest of moments, every last man in Shawshank felt free."

第二天我驅車46英里，到上桑達斯基，去了肖申克木器店，這片地區最像肖申克電影主題博物館的地方就是它了。在這裏，瑞德和獄友們聆聽過安迪用監獄廣播播放莫扎特的《費加羅的婚禮》，正如他描述的那樣，“就像某種美麗的鳥兒扇動羽翼，飛入我們乏味的小籠子，牢房的銅牆鐵壁紛紛消融，在極其迅忽的一個瞬間，肖申克監獄的每一個人都感受了自由的滋味。'

The owners of the wood shop, Bill and April Mullen, were smart enough to get in on the film tourism trade earlier than most. As a result, they’ve acquired more artifacts from the movie than can even be found at the reformatory: everything from the novelty prison trays Hollywood attendees used before the premiere at Mansfield’s gorgeous Renaissance Theater to the 1937 Ford bus that Andy arrived in with the rest of the "fresh fish."

這家木器店的主人比爾(Bill)和艾普羅·穆倫(April Mullen)十分聰明，他們搶先一步，開創了電影旅遊經濟。因此，他們得到的關於該電影的手工藝品比看守所收藏的更多：有一種新式牢房托盤，是該電影在曼斯菲爾德奢華的文藝復興劇院首映之前出席好萊塢盛典的演員們使用過的；還有安迪和其他“鮮魚'來到監獄時乘坐的那輛1937年的福特公交車，總之應有盡有。

"Morgan Freeman hasn’t said he won’t come in August," said Mr. Mullen, who became friends with the actor after meeting him in 2012 at the Ground Zero Blues Club, the Clarksdale, Miss., spot that Mr. Freeman co-owns. "We’re holding out hope." (A representative for Mr. Freeman said the event is currently not on the actor’s schedule.) Mr. Mullen said Mr. Robbins had also been contacted, but his publicist said he’d be out of the country.

“摩根·弗里曼沒有說8月份不來。'穆倫先生說。2012年，他在密西西比州克拉克斯代爾零層布魯斯俱樂部遇見弗里曼之後就成了朋友，弗里曼也是那家酒吧的老闆之一。“我們不放棄希望。'（弗里曼先生的代表說，這項活動目前不在該演員的日程表中）。穆倫先生說，他也聯繫了羅賓斯先生，但他的經紀人說屆時他會在國外。

"Tim was very soft-spoken, and we were all wondering how anyone was going to hear him on screen," said Bob Wachtman, a retired Upper Sandusky native and an extra in a scene filmed at the nearby Wyandot County Courthouse, as he walked through the wood shop with Mr. Mullen and me. "Once my shot was done, they never ordered me out of the building, so I just sat there and watched them film the whole day."

“蒂姆講話非常溫和，我們都很好奇，觀衆在屏幕前怎麼能聽到他的聲音。'鮑勃·沃奇曼(Bob Wachtman)說着，陪我和穆倫先生一起穿過木器店。他是上桑達斯基本地人，已經退休，曾經在附近懷安多特縣法院的一場戲中充當臨時演員。“有一次，我的戲份拍完後，他們也沒有命令我離開片場，我就坐那兒看他們拍戲，看了一整天。'

As Mr. Wachtman spoke in almost reverential tones about a small chapter in the town’s history that occurred two decades ago, I thought of the more recent moment when a reformatory guide told me of the fan weddings that the prison hosts and then added, almost as an afterthought, that he too would be getting hitched on the grounds the very next weekend.

沃奇曼先生用幾近虔誠的聲調講述着二十年前小鎮歷史上的短章，我記起一個更近的時刻，那時，看守所一名導遊告訴我，監獄會爲該片的粉絲舉辦婚禮，想了一下他又說，他的婚禮就在下個週末，也將在這裏舉行。

Not everyone can schedule on-site nuptials (they start at $1,000), but there are always the souvenir T-shirts reading Property of Ohio State Reformatory. Those go for $15.

不是每個人都可以安排現場婚禮（起價1000美元），但寫着“俄亥俄州立看守所資產'字樣的紀念T恤一直有售。15美元一件。

IF YOU GO

若你到此一遊

Where to Stay

住宿信息

Mansfield’s Quality Inn & Suites offers a Shawshank 20th Anniversary Package Aug. 29 to 30 with doubles for $128.66; suites, $139.96 (500 North Trimble Road, 419-529-1000; ).

8月29日至30日，曼斯菲爾德優質客棧與套房(Quality Inn & Suites；500 North Trimble Road，電話419-529-1000; )供應肖申克20週年特惠套餐，雙人間128.66美元、套房139.66美元。

The Olde Stone House is a pre-Civil War but Wi-Fi-capable B & B on 10 acres just 10 minutes from downtown Mansfield; from $89 to $109 (291 Stewart Road North, 419-571-0013; ).

舊石屋(The Olde Stone House；291 Stewart Road North, 419-571-0013; )是美國內戰前就開業的經濟型旅館，卻有無線信號，提供牀位和早餐，佔地10英畝，距離曼斯菲爾德鬧市區僅十分鐘路程。

Where to Eat

餐飲信息

Martini’s on Main, in Mansfield, offers pizza made from scratch and gets most of its ingredients from local farms (108 North Main Street, 419-775-5936; ). Closed Sundays.

曼斯菲爾德的大道馬提尼餐廳(Martini’s on Main)供應農家比薩餅，大部分食材來自本地農莊（108 North Main Street，電話419-775-5936; ）。週日歇業。

Rocky’s Pub & Grill (22 South Park Street, 419-522-1342; ) is a nearly 40-year-old Mansfield institution near the Carrousel District that offers up a great selection of steak, seafood and Scotch.

洛基酒吧與烤肉（Rocky’s Pub & Grill，22 South Park Street，電話419-522-1342; ）是曼斯菲爾德一家有近40年曆史的老店，位於旋轉木馬區附近，供應非常美味的各種牛排、海鮮和蘇格蘭威士忌。

Reformatory Red Wine is available at the Cypress Hill Winery in Mansfield (37 East Fourth Street, 419-295-2124; ).

曼斯菲爾德的柏山酒廠(Cypress Hill Winery，37 East Fourth Street，電話419-295-2124; )出產看守所紅酒(Reformatory Red Wine)。

What to Do

娛樂信息

A two-day bus tour (Aug. 29 and 30) takes visitors to the 13 film locations at $139 per ticket ().

巴士二日遊（8月29日及30日）帶遊客遊覽片中的13個拍攝地，票價139美元 ()。

A ’40s-’50s-themed cocktail party will be held at the Ohio State Reformatory starting at 7:30 p.m. on Aug. 30. The $50 ticket includes hors d’oeuvres, reformatory tours and a live jazz band ().

8月30日晚7:30，俄亥俄州立看守所將舉辦一場四五十年代主題的雞尾酒派對。票價50美元，含餐前點心、看守所遊覽與現場爵士樂演出()。