辣極思蜀:花椒的極致誘惑

I HAVE A CONFESSION to make: For nearly a decade, I kept contraband in my freezer. It was a stash of Sichuan peppercorn, the bright and earthy Asian spice that tingles and numbs the tongue. Harvested from prickly ash shrubs and trees in temperate parts of Asia, Sichuan peppercorns had been banned from the U.S. in 1968 out of fear they might spread citrus canker.
我有件事必須坦白：近10年來，我一直在冰箱裏藏着違禁品。它就是花椒，一種明亮、樸實的亞洲香料，入口辛麻。花椒生長於亞洲溫帶地區，是灌木或喬木花椒樹的果實。由於擔心這種植物會導致柑橘潰瘍病蔓延，美國在1968年曾頒佈過花椒的進口禁令。

The spice is often combined with chilies for a sensation the Chinese call ma la─literally 'numbing-hot.' It was a food buzz that intrigued me because it was like no other. (Despite the name, the reddish-brown pods are not related to black pepper.) The zingy husks are used in China, where the spice is called hua jiao ('flower pepper'), while Japanese cuisine favors the pod's milder berries, known as sansho. In any form, that lemony tang is unmistakable.
花椒常與辣椒一起使用，烹製口味麻辣的菜餚。這種調料在我看來非常獨特，引發過我的無限好奇。（雖然中文名字中都有一個“椒”，但這種紅褐色的芸香科植物與黑胡椒並無關係。）不論是中國菜中使用的花椒，還是日本料理中使用的柔和些的山椒，其濃烈辛辣的香味都是明白無誤的。

I got my hands on some in 1996, and since I didn't know when I'd get more, I used the peppercorns judiciously─roasting them with salt, say, to make a zesty dip for fried chicken. My favorite way to deploy them was to pound and scatter them into mapo tofu, a Sichuan classic of velvety tofu and ground meat swimming in a silky sauce. When the U.S. lifted the ban on Sichuan peppercorns in 2005, I rejoiced.
我在1996年弄到些花椒，當時因爲不知道什麼時候才能再弄到一些，所以我明智地把它們加鹽烘焙，做成了花椒粉，在吃炸雞時當蘸料享用。當然，我最喜歡的做法還是把它們撒在麻婆豆腐上。麻婆豆腐是一道經典川菜，由嫩豆腐、肉糜和濃湯般稠滑的醬料組成。當美國在2005年取消對花椒的禁令時，我高興極了。

A few years later, while researching my 'Asian Tofu' cookbook, I traveled to Chengdu, the capital of China's Sichuan province. The peppercorns were plentiful at every market I visited, often displayed alongside chilies, their ma la partner. It was a sultry September, and a snack of dan dan noodles seasoned with salty preserved vegetables, perky Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil kept me alert in the intense humidity.
數年後，爲了研究“亞洲豆腐”菜譜，我前往中國四川省的省會城市成都。在那裏，每到一處市場，都可以看到花椒的身影，而且常與做麻辣菜必備的另一種原料──辣椒並排擺放。當時正值悶熱的九月，以鹹冬菜、豐裕的花椒和辣椒油等爲佐料的四川特色小吃擔擔麪，令我無時無刻不意識到空氣中的悶熱和潮溼。

One family I visited used Sichuan peppercorns in most everything they served me. To finish a stir-fry, they sprinkled on a bit of the ground spice just as if it were black or white pepper. The family's version of mapo tofu relied solely on hua jiao for seasoning. For my taste, the result had too much ma and not enough la─an object lesson in the importance of striking the right balance between chilies and peppercorns. One of their kitchen drawers held a jar of ground peppercorns moistened by oil─a brilliant idea, because the oil captured the spice's zing and kept it always at the ready. The family used this paste to season all kinds of salads and sauces.
在那裏，我拜訪的一戶人家招待我的幾乎每道菜裏都用了花椒。作爲一盤炒菜的最後一道工序，他們像用黑胡椒或者白胡椒一樣，把花椒粉撒了上去。這戶人家做的麻婆豆腐，佐料全是花椒。我品嚐後的感覺是，麻味有餘、辣味不足，這個反面案例凸顯出正確掌握花椒和辣椒搭配比例的重要性。在他們的一個廚房抽屜裏，有一罐油浸花椒粉──這真是個好主意，因爲油能夠吸收花椒的植物精髓，使之隨時可被取用。這戶人家會把這種油浸花椒粉做出的醬料當成佐料，搭配在各種涼拌菜和醬汁中。

In other encounters, Sichuan peppercorns played a less obvious role. One restaurant served its signature duck with a fragrant chili mixture that contained just a hint of the spice's citrusy brightness and numbing edge. A locally made candy had a suggestion of it too. I was inspired to experiment in countless new ways─all the more so because nowadays, Sichuan peppercorns are readily obtained Stateside, not only in Chinese markets but online, at sources like . I've even seen them at Whole Foods. Looking back at my years on the wrong side of the law, it seems almost too easy.
其他很多時候，花椒的作用則沒有如此明顯。我在一家餐廳點了他們的招牌鴨，裏面用了多種香辣佐料，花椒的一絲橘香和辛麻隱藏其中，幾乎難以察覺。當地產的一種糖果似乎也含有花椒成分。受此鼓舞，我嘗試了無數種使用花椒的新方法──尤其是像現在這種好時候，因爲現在在美國可以很容易買到花椒了，除了華人市場，還可以在等網站進行網購。甚至在全食超市(Whole Foods)，我都看到過花椒。總之，與以前我不得不私藏花椒的歲月相比，現在簡直太方便了。

Mapo Tofu (Spicy Tofu With Beef and Sichuan Peppercorn)
麻婆豆腐（以花椒、肉糜爲佐料的辣豆腐）

You can find Chinese chili bean sauce at Asian markets. The label will read dou ban jiang or toban djan; the word Pixian signals an excellent version made in Sichuan.
中國豆瓣醬可在亞洲市場買到，標籤上寫着“dou ban jiang”或“toban djan”。帶“郫縣”(Pixian)標識的，是產自四川的高級豆瓣醬。

Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4
總用時：30分鐘 份量：4人份

Ingredients
原料：

16 ounces medium-firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes
16盎司（約454克）中等硬度的豆腐，切成0.5英寸（約1.3釐米）見方的小塊

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn
1茶匙花椒

3 tablespoons canola oil
3湯匙芥花籽油

6 ounces ground beef or pork, roughly chopped
6盎司（約170克）絞牛肉或絞豬肉，切碎

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1茶匙生薑，切成碎末

1½ teaspoons chili flakes
1 1/2盎司（約43克）茶匙辣椒片

1 tablespoon fermented black beans, optional
1湯匙黑豆豆鼓，可選

2½ to 3 tablespoons Chinese chili bean sauce
2.5-3湯匙豆瓣醬

1 generous teaspoon sugar
1大茶匙糖

2 teaspoons soy sauce
2茶匙醬油

1 1/3 cups boiling water
1 1/3杯開水

Salt, to taste
鹽，適量

2 large scallions, cut on the diagonal into 1½-inch pieces
2棵大蔥，按對角線切成1.5英寸（約3.8釐米）的小塊

1½ tablespoons cornstarch dissolved in 3 tablespoons water
1 1/2湯匙玉米澱粉，加湯匙水拌勻

What To Do
做法：

1. Put tofu in a heatproof bowl. Bring a kettle of water to a rolling boil. Remove water from heat, then pour over tofu to cover. Let sit 15 minutes.
1. 把豆腐放入耐高溫的碗內。將一壺水燒開後，倒入放豆腐的碗中，浸15分鐘。

2. Meanwhile, in a large wok or skillet, toast peppercorns over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darkened, 2-3 minutes. Let cool briefly, then pound with a mortar and pestle or grind in a coffee or spice grinder. Set aside. Drain tofu and set near stove.
2. 同時，用炒鍋或煎鍋中火煸炒花椒2-3分鐘，至聞到香味、顏色略深。稍加冷卻後，放在臼中用杵搗碎或用咖啡豆或香料研磨機磨碎，備用。將豆腐瀝乾，放在爐竈旁。

3. Heat oil in wok or skillet over high heat. Add beef, using a wooden spoon to crumble into small pieces. Stir-fry until cooked through, about 2 minutes. Add ginger, chili flakes, fermented black beans (if using) and chili sauce. Cook, stirring constantly, until beef is a rich reddish-brown color and oil is slightly red, about 2 minutes. Add sugar and soy sauce, stir to combine, then add tofu. Gently stir or shake wok to combine without breaking up tofu.
3. 在炒鍋或煎鍋中倒入食用油，大火加熱後，倒入牛肉，用木勺將肉搗開。翻炒約2分鐘，至肉熟透。加入生薑、辣椒片、黑豆豆鼓（可選）和豆瓣醬。繼續不停翻炒約2分鐘，直至牛肉變成黑紅色，油略變紅。加入糖和醬油，拌勻，再加入豆腐。輕炒，或邊炒邊抖動炒鍋，防止豆腐碎裂。

4. Pour in boiling water. Bring to a vigorous simmer, and cook to allow tofu to absorb flavors, about 3 minutes. Season with salt or sugar to taste.
4. 倒入開水。燉至湯汁收斂、豆腐入味，約3分鐘。視個人口味加入適量的鹽或糖。

5. Add scallions and stir to combine. Pour enough dissolved cornstarch into wok to thicken sauce. (You may not need to use it all.) Add reserved ground peppercorn, stir once more and transfer to a shallow bowl or divide among four serving dishes. Serve immediately with hot rice.
5. 加蔥拌勻。倒入適量玉米澱粉糊，使湯汁濃稠。（事先準備的澱粉糊也可能用不完。）加入準備好的花椒，再次拌勻，起鍋，將菜倒入一個淺底碗或按四人份分別倒入碟中。配米飯趁熱享用。

─Adapted from 'Asian Tofu'
──選摘自《亞洲豆腐》(Asian Tofu)

Chilled Celery and Sichuan Peppercorn Salad
涼拌麻辣芹菜

Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4
總用時：30分鐘 份量：4人份

Ingredients
原料：

5 ribs celery, cut into thin sticks 3-inches long
5根芹菜，切成3英寸（約7.6釐米）長的芹菜絲

3-inch length of carrot, cut into thin sticks
3英寸（約7.6釐米）長的胡蘿蔔，亦切成絲

¼ teaspoon salt
¼ 茶匙鹽

¼ teaspoon sugar
¼ 茶匙糖

1 teaspoon sesame oil
1茶匙麻油

¼ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn paste (see recipe below)
¼ 茶匙花椒醬（詳見下文食譜）

What To Do
做法：

1. Place celery and carrots in a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over vegetables to cover. Let sit until vegetables soften slightly, 2 minutes. Drain under cold running water. Set aside.
1. 將芹菜絲和胡蘿蔔絲放入一個耐高溫的碗內。倒入沸水直至淹沒菜絲。浸泡2分鐘，待菜絲稍稍軟化。用冷水沖涼，瀝乾備用。

2. Wipe bowl dry, then add sugar, sesame oil, peppercorn paste and vegetables. Toss vegetables to coat. Refrigerate at least 20 minutes. Before serving, season with additional salt, sugar or Sichuan peppercorn paste to taste.
2. 將碗擦乾，加入糖、麻油、花椒醬和菜絲。抖動碗，讓醬料覆蓋到菜絲表面。放入冰箱冷藏至少20分鐘。食用前，視個人口味再加少許鹽、糖或花椒醬。

Dan Dan Noodles
擔擔麪

You can find Chinese noodles and ya cai at Asian markets─though spaghetti and dill pickles are fine stand-ins.
中國麪條和芽菜可在亞洲市場買到，當然，用意大利麪和醃黃瓜替代也不錯。

Total Time: 20 minutes Serves: 4-6 as a starter, 2-3 as a main course
總用時：20分鐘 份量：4-6人份（前菜），2-3人份（主菜）

Ingredients
原料：

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn paste (see recipe below)
1/2茶匙花椒醬（詳見下文食譜）

1½ tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or 4 teaspoons tahini plus 1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 ½ 湯匙芝麻糊，或，4茶匙芝麻醬加1茶匙麻油

3 tablespoons soy sauce
3湯匙醬油

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce
1湯匙老抽

1½ tablespoons chili oil
1 1/2湯匙辣椒油

Salt, to taste
鹽，適量

2 teaspoons canola oil
2茶匙芥花籽油

4 dried chilies, such as árbol, slit lengthwise and seeds removed
4個辣椒，例如狹長的阿寶辣椒(arbol)，縱向切開、去籽

½ teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns
1/2茶匙花椒

4 ounces ground beef
4盎司（約113克）碎牛肉

2 tablespoons ya cai (Sichuan preserved vegetable) or finely chopped dill pickle
2湯匙芽菜（一種四川醃菜）或切碎的蒔蘿泡菜

1 pound fresh Chinese noodles or 12 ounces dried Chinese noodles
1磅（約454克）新鮮麪條或12盎司（約340克）乾麪條

1 scallion, green parts only, thinly sliced
1棵蔥，只取綠色部分，切成薄片

What To Do
做法：

1. Whisk together peppercorn paste, sesame paste, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, dark soy sauce and chili oil. Season with salt to taste. Divide sauce among serving bowls and set aside.
1. 將花椒、芝麻糊、1湯匙醬油、老抽和辣椒油攪拌起來。按個人口味加入適量鹽。按用餐人數將攪拌均勻的醬料分別放入碗中，待用。

2. Heat oil in a wok or skillet over medium heat. Add chilies and peppercorns and stir-fry until fragrant, 15 seconds. Add meat and ya cai, using a wooden spoon to crumble meat. Add remaining soy sauce and stir-fry until meat is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Set aside.
2. 在炒鍋或煎鍋中倒入食用油，中火加熱。加入辣椒和花椒，煸炒爆香，15秒。加入碎牛肉和芽菜，用木勺將肉搗開。加入剩餘的醬油，炒至肉熟透，約2分鐘。備用。

3. Cook noodles as directed on package. Drain under warm running water to remove excess starch. Divide hot noodles among bowls with sauce. Top with meat and scallions. Invite guests to mix before eating.
3. 根據包裝上的指示煮麪條。煮熟後撈起，用溫水過一遍，以去除多餘的澱粉。把熱麪條分別盛入之前分配好的醬碗中。在麪條頂部撒上蔥和炒好的肉末。提醒客人在享用前先攪拌一下，好讓麪條入味。

Chili-Sichuan Peppercorn Mix
自制麻辣調料（辣椒加花椒）

Use this to dip or garnish poached chicken, fried tofu or steamed vegetables. You can find Sichuan peppercorn and other ingredients at Asian markets or at online sources such as .
該自制調料既可當蘸料又可作佐料，配白切雞、炸豆腐、清蒸菜等食用。花椒及其他原料可在亞洲市場或等網站買到。

Total Time: 5 minutes Makes: 1/3 cup
總用時：5分鐘 份量：1/3杯

Ingredients
原料：

3 tablespoons gochu garu (Korean red pepper powder)
3湯匙韓國紅辣椒粉

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn, toasted and ground
1茶匙花椒，煸炒後磨成粉

¾ teaspoon toasted white sesame seeds
3/4茶匙烤白芝麻

½ teaspoon sea salt
1/2茶匙海鹽

2 tablespoons canola or peanut oil
2湯匙芥花籽油或花生油

½ teaspoon sugar
1/2茶匙糖

What To Do
做法：

1. In a small bowl, combine Korean red pepper powder, Sichuan peppercorn, sesame seeds and salt. Put the oil in a small saucepan or skillet and heat over medium-high heat until just smoking.
1. 將韓國紅辣椒粉、花椒、芝麻和鹽倒入小碗中混合。將油倒入小平底鍋或煎鍋，中到大火加熱，至略出油煙爲止。

2. Pour half of the oil over chili powder mixture. Expect foaming action. Give a quick stir with a spoon. Pour on remaining oil, repeat stirring to moisten ingredients. Lastly, stir in sugar.
2. 將一半的熱油倒入辣椒粉混合物中。混合物會起泡，用勺子快速攪拌。這時再倒入剩餘的油，不停攪拌，讓原料浸透。最後，拌入糖。

3. Let cool a few minutes, taste and adjust the flavor with extra salt or sugar. The mixture is ready to use. Or, keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days or refrigerate for up to a week.
3. 冷卻幾分鐘後，嘗下味道，視情況適量加鹽或加糖。至此，該調料製作完成，當即便可使用。或者，可將該調料裝入密封容器中，常溫保存時限爲兩天，冷藏保存時限爲一週。