一家在反恐戰火中重生的烤肉餐廳
BAGHDAD — Long before Fallujah was known the world over for deadly jihadis, it was known all over Iraq for its kebab — fatty lamb, ground and mixed with onion, grilled on a skewer over an open fire and served with a pinch of sumac — at a joint called Haji Hussein.
巴格達——在費盧傑以殺人不眨眼的聖戰者聞名於世很久之前，就以哈吉侯賽因(Haji Hussein)餐廳裏的烤肉聞名伊拉克了——把肥美的羊肉切成小塊，拌上洋蔥，串成串兒後用明火烤，上桌時再撒點兒蘇麻克。
Everyone, it seemed, ate at Haji Hussein: locals, soldiers, tourists and businessmen traveling the Baghdad-to-Amman highway that runs through the city. Starting in 2003, journalists covering the war ate there, and so did U.S. soldiers and the insurgents who fought them, perhaps even at the same time.
似乎人人都在哈吉侯賽因餐廳吃過東西：當地人、士兵、遊客，以及經由穿城而過的高速公路往返於巴格拉和安曼之間的商人。戰地記者們從2003年開始在那兒用餐；此外還有美國士兵，以及對抗美國士兵的叛軍，兩者甚至有可能同時在那兒吃飯。
The restaurant was damaged by bombs multiple times, and entirely flattened once by a U.S. airstrike. It was rebuilt, embraced as a symbol of Fallujah’s own rebirth after years of war, only to be abandoned when the city fell to the Islamic State more than two years ago.
該餐廳多次因遭到轟炸而受損，並在美軍的一次空襲中被夷爲平地。重建後，它被視爲歷經連年戰亂的費盧傑獲得新生的標誌，直到那座城市在兩年多以前落入伊斯蘭國(Islamic State)之手，它才被廢棄。
Now the much-loved kebab restaurant has been reborn again, this time in Baghdad, in a modern, three-story building in the upscale Mansour neighborhood.
現在，這家備受喜愛的烤肉餐廳已再度重生，這次是在巴格達的高檔社區曼蘇爾的一棟三層現代建築裏。
A new entrant on the capital’s thriving restaurant scene, it offers great kebab and a dose of nostalgia for a time when Baghdadis thought nothing of zipping off to Fallujah for lunch at Haji Hussein.
作爲欣欣向榮的巴格達餐飲業的後來者，它既供應烤肉，又爲人們提供懷戀往昔的場地——曾幾何時，拔腿前往費盧傑，去哈吉侯賽因餐廳吃午飯，對巴格達人而言是稀鬆平常的事情。
“This was the craft of my grandfather,” said Mohammed Hussein, who runs the business that has been in his family since the 1930s, when Fallujah was a city of agriculture, smuggling and tribal traditions, not a jihadi haven.
“這門手藝是我祖父留下來的，”哈吉侯賽因餐廳的經營者穆罕默德·侯賽因(Mohammed Hussein)說。他的家族從1930年代開始經營該餐廳，當時的費盧傑還是一個以農業和走私爲主，奉行部落傳統的城市，而非聖戰者的天堂。
The restaurant, shiny and well lit, is packed most nights, and patrons wait for tables — 15 to 20 minutes or so, something almost unheard-of in Iraq. There are two flat-screen televisions on the first floor, tuned to news channels reporting on the military campaign to retake Fallujah from the Islamic State.
這家熠熠生輝、光線充足的餐廳，在大多數夜晚都擠滿了人，食客們等上15到20分鐘時間纔能有空桌子，這種情況在伊拉克幾乎聞所未聞。一樓的兩部平板電視被調到了新聞頻道，正播放與旨在從伊斯蘭國手中奪回費盧傑的戰役有關的新聞。
“I can’t bear to watch the news,” Hussein said.
“我看不了這類報道，”侯賽因說。
There was one news flash recently that did not escape his notice: The Iraqi air force, like the Americans 12 years ago, announced that it had struck his restaurant site in Fallujah because leaders with the Islamic State, also known as ISIS or ISIL, were meeting there.
不久前的一條新聞消息沒有逃過他的眼睛：像12年前的美國人一樣，伊拉克空軍宣佈，襲擊了他在費盧傑的餐廳，因爲伊斯蘭國（又稱ISIS或ISIL）的頭目正在那裏開會。
A statement from Iraq’s Joint Operation Command appeared on the television: “Based on intelligence information about a meeting for ISIS leaders in Haji Hussein restaurant inside the center of Fallujah an airstrike was launched on the restaurant, which led to the killing of tens of ISIS terrorists.”
伊拉克聯合作戰司令部(Iraq’s Joint Operation Command)的一份聲明出現在了電視上：“依據關於ISIS的頭目在費盧傑市中心的哈吉侯賽因餐廳開會的情報，對該餐廳發動空襲，擊斃了數十名ISIS恐怖分子。”
But the restaurant, Hussein said, has been deserted for 2 1/2 years.
但侯賽因說，那家餐廳早在兩年半以前就被廢棄了。
When Iraqi forces recently made gains inside Fallujah, people almost immediately began talking about Haji Hussein. The federal police released a combat video saying they were fighting near the restaurant, and a glimpse of the rust-colored facade showed it damaged but not destroyed. On state television, commentators expressed hope that Haji Hussein might reopen soon in Fallujah.
伊拉克政府軍最近在費盧傑取得了一些戰果，與此同時，人們幾乎立刻開始談論哈吉侯賽因餐廳。聯邦警察發佈了一個作戰視頻，說他們正在該餐廳附近戰鬥，從視頻中閃現的鐵鏽色外立面來看，餐廳雖然受損，但並未被摧毀。國家電視臺的評論員表示，希望不久後哈吉侯賽因餐廳能在費盧傑重新開業。
In 2004, the Americans bombed the restaurant based on intelligence that insurgents loyal to Abu Musab Zarqawi, the founder of al-Qaida in Iraq, the forerunner of the Islamic State, were eating there.
美國人曾在2004年依據一份情報轟炸過該餐廳。那份情報稱，忠於伊拉克基地組織(al-Qaida)創始人阿布·穆薩卜·扎卡維(Abu Musab Al-Zarqawi)的叛軍正在那裏吃飯。該組織是伊斯蘭國的前身。
This being the holy month of Ramadan, the Baghdad restaurant has been busy lately serving iftar, the evening meal to break the day’s fast. The parking lot is also a beehive of activity: a security guard checking cars for bombs; a man selling balloons to families; children begging.
時值齋月，巴格達的這家餐廳最近正忙於供應開齋飯，即打破當日齋戒的晚餐。停車場裏頗爲熱鬧：一名保安在檢查汽車是否攜帶着炸彈；一個男人在兜售氣球；一些孩子在乞討。
As Hussein, 49, sat down to chat one recent evening, he was surrounded by bow-tied waiters — much of the staff from Fallujah now works in the new place — filling the tables with dishes of mezze, or appetizers, as diners waited to break their fast.
不久前的一個晚上，當49歲的侯賽因坐下來聊天的時候，周圍滿是繫着領結的服務生——許多從費盧傑過來的員工目前在新餐廳工作。在食客等待開齋之際，他們把風味小吃端到桌上。
In addition to heaping platters of the famous kebab, there were dates coated with sesame paste, watermelon, hummus, cucumber and tomato salad, pickles and soup. There were some new items on the menu that were not served in Fallujah: grilled river carp, called masgoof; a Yemeni chicken-and-rice meal called mandi; and maklouba, a dish of chicken and eggplant and rice that is originally Palestinian.
除了一盤又一盤堆得滿滿的烤肉，還有裹着芝麻糊的海棗、西瓜、鷹嘴豆泥、黃瓜西紅柿沙拉、醃菜和湯。菜單上有些新菜品是在費盧傑沒有供應過的：烤鯉魚，名爲Masgouf；一種以雞肉和米飯烹製的也門風味佳餚，名爲Mandi；還有來自巴勒斯坦的以雞肉、茄子和米飯做成的Maklouba。
As customers streamed in, Hussein tried to recall how many times his restaurant in Fallujah had been damaged or destroyed by the war.
當客人涌進門的時候，侯賽因竭力回想費盧傑的餐廳在戰火中總共受損或被摧毀了多少次。
“Too many to count,” he said.
“多到數不清，”他說。
At least inside his restaurant, Iraq does not seem hopelessly divided by sect. Sunnis and Shiites break their fast at slightly different times, and as sundown approached one of the televisions was tuned to a Sunni channel, the other to Iraqiya, the channel of the Shiite-led government.
至少在他的餐廳裏，伊拉克似乎並未因爲教派分歧而呈現令人絕望的割裂狀態。遜尼派和什葉派開齋的時間略有不同。太陽即將落山時，一部電視機調到了遜尼派電視臺，另一部則調到了什葉派主導的政府設立的伊拉克國家電視臺(Iraqiya)。
When the call to prayer — the signal that the day’s fast was over — went out on one, the Sunnis began eating. Fifteen minutes or so later, the Shiite customers began eating.
當召喚祈禱聲——當日齋戒結束的信號——從一部電視機裏傳出來的時候，遜尼派開始用餐。過了15分左右，什葉派顧客開始用餐。
