要溫度更要風度的冬裝之道

Even on the most bitter and blizzard-iest of winter days, Waqaas Fahmawi, a 36-year-old financial lawyer, would never deign to travel to his Stamford, Conn. office in a parka or puffer jacket. 'I'm pretty conservative sartorially,' said Mr. Fahmawi, who instead wears a single-breasted, notch-collar Aquascutum overcoat, hand-tailored in heavy wool-cashmere. 'The puffer is reserved for the most casual occasions,' he added. 'Like going to the store.'

即使是在暴風雪肆虐的最寒冷冬日裏，36歲的康涅狄格州斯坦福(Stamford)金融律師瓦卡斯・範馬韋(Waqaas Fahmawi)也從不肯隨便穿着帶帽子的厚夾克或是鼓鼓囊囊的外套去辦公室上班。範馬韋說：“在衣着方面我相當保守。”他會穿一件單排扣、V字領的雅格獅丹(Aquascutum)大衣，手工裁製，衣料採用厚重的羊毛加羊絨。他補充道：“那種鼓外套只有在最休閒的場合穿，比方說去商場的時候。”

If you're keeping score at home, that would be: Elements, 0. Elegance, 1. It's a point of pride among a certain set of professional men, from young analysts to Masters of the Universe, to maintain decorum in the face of wintry mixes and cold fronts, even as the rest of the huddled populace caves to comfort and function.

如果你正坐在家裏爲他打分，結果大概會是這樣：實用程度，零分；優雅度，一分。這是一類職業男性所保有的自尊，他們中既有年輕的分析師，也有各行各業的巨擎們，這些人面對冬日裏的風霜刀劍和冷鋒寒潮時也不忘保持衣着得體，儘管這時候其他人早就縮作一團躲進舒適保暖的厚衣服裏去了。

It speaks volumes that Mr. Fahmawi's coat is from a UK-based company. 'The British are not terribly practical people,' joked Alex Wilcox, who grew up in the north of England, and opened the custom clothing shop Lord Willy's in New York in 2006. 'We're so steeped in tradition we'll sometimes forego practicality for a more elegant appearance.'

範馬韋的大衣出自一家英國公司，這有些意味深長。亞歷克斯・威爾科克斯(Alex Wilcox)開玩笑道：“英國人不是特別注重實際的人。我們沉浸於這樣的一種傳統之中，有時候會爲了更有風度的外觀而放棄實用性。”威爾科克斯在英格蘭北部長大，2006年，他在紐約開了定製服裝店Lord Willy's。

He's being modest, of course. The British have come up with some of the most elegant solutions to wicked weather. Mr. Wilcox recently collaborated with Scottish brand Mackintosh to make a limited-edition version of their classic Dunoon coat, which he wears in inclement conditions. 'It's a lightweight charcoal Loro Piana [wool],' he said, 'that has been fully bonded to be completely water- and windproof.'

當然，他這只是謙辭。英國人已經想出了一些對付嚴寒天氣的最優雅解決之道。近來，威爾科克斯與蘇格蘭品牌Mackintosh合作製作了一款限量版的該品牌經典Dunoon大衣，這件衣服他在嚴寒天氣裏穿。他說：“這是一件輕質的Loro Piana品牌（羊毛材質的大衣），做過全封閉處理，完全可以防水防風。”

Many men will forgo a coat as long as they can, using only a scarf, the rake's accessory of choice, for warmth. Their thinking: If I can manage without the encumbrance and bother of a coat, then why not?

許多男性在只要條件允許的情況下都會脫掉厚重的外套，僅靠一條圍巾這一風流浪子的首選配飾來保暖。他們的想法是：如果能夠擺脫累贅又麻煩的外套，又何樂而不爲呢？

In certain parts of the world, however, a coat does eventually become necessary, no matter how plush and protected one's commute may be. Classic wool or cashmere overcoats will do the trick, but some brands go one further. Valentino's Subzero Couture collection currently offers a tailored wool coat that hides a thin goose-down lining. Meanwhile, Brioni's creative director, Brendan Mullane, has been finding ways to boost natural fibers with protective coatings. Brioni also makes coats with discreet luxe linings. 'The idea is to spoil the wearer with felted cashmere or fur liners that give not only natural insulation, but also a high level of sophistication,' said Mr. Mullane. For fall, he created a refined cashmere parka with a beaver fur-trimmed hood that might pass Wall Street muster.

然而在世界的某些地方，厚外套早晚都是必要之物，不管你在上下班路上穿多豪華的絨衣，保護得多嚴密，也無濟於事。經典的羊毛或羊絨外套有時候就夠用了，不過有些品牌還會再多些保護。華倫天奴(Valentino)當季銷售的Subzero Couture系列中有一款定製的羊毛大衣，裏面藏了一層薄薄的鵝絨襯裏。與此同時，布里奧尼(Brioni)的創意總監布倫丹・馬蘭(Brendan Mullane)一直在尋找通過保護性塗層來加強天然纖維的辦法。布里奧尼還會爲大衣配上做工精良的豪華襯裏。馬蘭說：“其中的理念是要讓穿着者盡情享受毛氈羊絨和皮毛襯裏帶來的奢華感受，這些內襯不僅提供天然的保護，而且具備相當高水準的繁複精緻。”今年秋季，他設計了一款精緻的羊絨帶帽厚夾克，帽子的襯裏採用的是海狸皮毛，這款外套或許能夠入得了華爾街人士的眼。

There are moments where a dash of sportiness can be acceptable. Designer Simon Spurr, who was recently named creative director of British heritage brand Kent & Curwen (his first collection debuts in January), doesn't entirely rule out the puffer. 'I'm all in favor of pairing a down jacket with a suit as long as both are perfectly tailored,' he said. A few years ago, he bought a down jacket from Moncler with a shell made of gray flannel instead of the typical nylon. 'It changed the way I dressed that winter,' he said. Loro Piana's Storm System jackets, which are made of wind-proof and waterproof cashmere and come in a hip-length, ski style have also made inroads into the wardrobes of Wall Street. Though these come in dark neutrals, as opposed to the screaming brights of slope-gear.

有些時候，添加些許動感元素也能過關。設計師西蒙・斯珀爾(Simon Spurr)不久前被任命爲英國經典品牌Kent & Curwen的創意總監（今年1月份他爲該品牌設計的服裝系列首次亮相），他的設計並沒有將臃腫外套完全排除在外。他說：“我完全贊同將羽絨外套與西裝搭配在一起的穿法，只要這兩件衣服的剪裁製作都很完美就好。”幾年前，他買過一件蒙口(Moncler)的羽絨服，那件羽絨服外層所採用的材料是灰色的法蘭絨，而非一般常用的尼龍。他說：“這件羽絨服改變了我那年冬天的穿衣方式。”Loro Piana的Storm System夾克也進入了華爾街人士的衣櫥，這款衣服由防風防水的羊絨製成，長至臀部，款式有些像滑雪服。不過，它屬於那種暗色的中性滑雪服風格，而不是色彩豔麗、在陡峭雪坡上炫技巧的那類。

For some men, the question of functional-versus-formal footwear is easy. A Dainite sole, which is made of studded rubber and is used by high-end footwear brands like Church's and Paraboot, 'is the dressiest way to not fall on your face when it's slippery,' said Josh Peskowitz, men's fashion director at Bloomingdale's. Mr. Peskowitz also wears brogue boots by Church's. The style, with round perforations intended to flush water from the shoe, was invented precisely for the slosh. Goodyear welting, a technique of stitching the sole on the outside of the shoe so as to leave the part underfoot unpierced, also helps with water resistance.

對於一些男性而言，解決功能性與正裝之間的矛盾並不是難題。布魯明戴爾百貨店(Bloomingdale's)男裝部主管喬希・派斯科維茨(Josh Peskowitz)說，由帶飾釘的橡膠製成且被Church's和Paraboot等高端鞋品牌採用的Dainite鞋底“是在溼滑天氣裏避免摔得顏面盡失的最講究的方式”。派斯科維茨還會穿Church's品牌的布洛克靴。這種款式的皮鞋鞋面上帶有旨在將水從鞋內排出的圓孔，是專門爲涉水行走而設計的。鞋子採用了Goodyear軋邊技術，這是一種將鞋底縫合在鞋外表面以保證鞋子底部完整無缺的技術，也有助於增強耐水性。

Opinion is sharply divided on the issue of rubber overshoes, which protect one's John Lobbs from Jack Frost and the pickling effect of sidewalk salt. 'I opt for shoe covers,' said Matthew Singer, men's fashion director at the Neiman Marcus Group. 'They're easy to slip on and off and allow me to not lug an extra pair of shoes.' Others aren't so accepting. Mr. Spurr said he finds shoe covers 'depressing.' He added,'I'll just wear my shoes and be careful on my way to and from work.'

至於是否要穿橡膠鞋套來保護腳上的John Lobb鞋子不會被冰雪之神毀掉，或是被人行道上的融雪鹽腐蝕掉，人們的意見大相徑庭。尼曼集團(Neiman Marcus Group)的男裝部主管馬修・辛格(Matthew Singer)說：“我會選擇鞋套，鞋套穿上脫下都很容易，而且我也不用再多帶一雙鞋子了。”也有些人無法接受。斯珀爾說，他覺得鞋套“讓人沮喪。”他補充道：“我只是穿着我的鞋，然後在上下班路上多加小心一點兒。”

If you happen to be pro-cover, English boot-maker John Lobb makes the platonic ideal. However, the company also offers bad weather alternatives. For the gentleman who's not averse to boots with a suit, Lobb's director of operations, Paul Goring, explained that the company makes versions that are weather-resistant yet refined enough for a formal setting. Many of the company's classic oxfords and loafers, he added, can be made custom with Dainite soles and weather-resistant leather.

如果你恰好是贊成穿鞋套的一方，那麼英國靴子製造商John Lobb的產品就是你的理想選擇。不過，這家公司也爲惡劣天氣提供一些其他選擇。該公司的業務總監保爾・戈林(Paul Goring)解釋說，對於那些不反對用靴子搭配正裝的紳士而言，該公司有一些靴款可以抵禦惡劣天氣，而且製作精良，足以適合正式場合。他還表示，該公司的許多經典款式牛津鞋和平底便鞋可以定製選用Dainite鞋底和抵禦惡劣天氣的皮質。

Upping the gauge of one's suiting fabric offers another level of warmth without compromising elegance. Kirk Miller, owner of bespoke suitery Miller's Oath, said he goes for fabric with more 'guts,' like tweed, which is peerless in keeping out damp cold. Flannel suiting is also a fine option. Brioni's Mr. Mullane upgrades the tried-and-true strategy of layering with silk and fine cashmere knits. He also adds cashmere-and-silk knee socks.

升級正裝的面料也是一個保暖又不失優雅風度的辦法。定製正裝品牌Miller's Oath的老闆柯克・米勒(Kirk Miller)說，他會選擇那些多些“膽識”的面料，比如粗花呢，這種面料在抵禦潮溼寒冷的天氣方面無可匹敵。法蘭絨的正裝也是一個不錯的選擇。布里奧尼的馬蘭通過試驗找到一種用絲綢與精緻羊絨針織而成的升級版面料。他還在及膝的長筒襪裏添加了羊絨與絲綢的混紡面料。

Mr. Spurr pointed out that accessories might be the most effective weapon in an elegant gent's weather-combatting arsenal: Cashmere-lined calfskin gloves are a must, as is a good scarf. For panache, he also relies on lapel pins and beautifully made umbrellas.

斯珀爾指出，配飾或許是優雅紳士們抵禦嚴寒天氣的最有效武器：帶有羊絨內襯的小牛皮手套是必備之物，還要有一條上好的圍巾。若要顯得有派頭，還可以別一枚領章，外加一把製作精美的雨傘。

But then, no matter one's level of preparation, there will still be days when the weather simply wins. On those occasions, elegance might just be the ability to laugh through chattering teeth.

不過，無論你準備得如何完備，總有那麼幾天天氣會佔到上風。這時候，風度或許只能表現在牙齒打着顫的笑談之間了。