秋冬時裝秀"最佳"和"最差"
Paris
巴黎The fall 2014 collections can be summed up with the observation that not one single high heel walked down Chanel's runway--only sparkly running shoes.
香奈兒(Chanel)的時裝秀堪稱2014年秋冬時裝系列的縮影，從香奈兒的T型臺上走下的沒有一隻高跟鞋――只有亮閃閃的跑鞋。Cocooning coats, Hepburn slacks and a deeply luxurious take on rugged clothing marked the fashion collections that ended here Wednesday. Come fall, it will be possible to look like a very chic farmer in Alexander McQueen's Elizabethan trekking boots. Quilted jackets, double-face cashmere slacks and fur bags were being embraced by fashion editors whose picks from the collections drive trends.
在近期結束的巴黎時裝週上，繭型外套、赫本(Hepburn)風寬鬆褲和對粗獷服飾的華麗詮釋成爲本季時裝系列的特色。到了秋季，穿上亞歷山大・麥昆(Alexander McQueen)的伊麗莎白風格(Elizabethan)登山靴，沒準看起來會像一位非常時髦的農夫。絎縫夾克、雙面羊絨寬鬆褲和皮草包受到時尚編輯的推崇，他們的選擇往往引導時尚潮流。
It could also be called the season of an awful lot of fabric. The technical word is 'volume,' and designers were obsessed with it. One leg of the Paule Ka slacks in white hammered satin could have made a skirt. Wool, lace and metallic jacquard flowed off models' backs and swirled around their legs. Stores will likely want trimmer versions for shoppers who can't carry off all that yardage.
秋冬時裝季的另一大特色是面料的大量運用。用技術術語來說叫“超大服裝”，設計師對此癡迷不已。保羅・卡(Paule Ka)白色錘花緞寬鬆褲一條褲腿所用的布料足夠做一條裙子了。羊毛、蕾絲和金屬提花布從模特的後背垂落下來，在雙腿邊打着旋。店家可能會爲穿不了這麼多布料的顧客打造精簡版服裝。Standout collections included the sharp contrasts of Tomas Maier's Bottega Veneta and Valentino's Pop Art capes and floral princess gowns. Iris Van Herpen, a Dutch designer, stood out with 3D printing and gravity-defying shoes which, along with her showman sensibility, recalled her former internship with Alexander McQueen. The Alexander McQueen collection itself was a disappointment. The label's runways seem stuck in an Elizabethan bubble, without the sexy-power-woman ethos of its late designer.
Agence France-Presse/Getty Images一位模特在展示薇歐奈的時裝。讓人眼前一亮的設計包括托馬斯・梅耶(Tomas Maier)對比強烈的寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)系列以及華倫天奴(Valentino)的波普藝術(Pop Art)系列斗篷和印花公主裙。荷蘭設計師艾麗斯・範荷本(Iris Van Herpen)以3D打印的超高跟鞋脫潁而出，加上她的出色表現力讓人聯想到她以前在亞歷山大・麥昆實習時的情形。而亞歷山大・麥昆自己的時裝系列則令人失望。該品牌的時裝秀似乎陷入了伊麗莎白風格的泡沫中，失去了已故設計師麥昆在設計中展示的那種性感女性氣質。For those attending shows, it was a season of mishaps. Nearly a dozen editors and guests were trapped in a high-rise elevator while leaving Oscar de la Renta's show in New York. Rescued by firemen, they exited the elevator by ladder through an escape hatch. Hundreds (including Vogue's Anna Wintour) were waylaid by London's high winds, their planes redirected to Dublin and Newcastle. What awaited in Milan and Paris? Pestilence: A nasty stomach bug spread among fashion-label employees, celebrities and editors.
而對參加者來說，這是個充滿波折的時裝季。近12名編輯和嘉賓在離開奧斯卡・德拉倫塔(Oscar de la Renta)紐約時裝秀時被困在一幢高樓的電梯裏。他們被消防隊員救出來之後用梯子經逃生口離開了電梯。還有幾百人（包括《Vogue》雜誌的安娜・溫圖爾(Anna Wintour)）被倫敦的大風耽擱了行程，他們的飛機改道都柏林和紐卡斯爾(Newcastle)。那麼在米蘭和巴黎等待他們的又是什麼呢？是生病：一種討厭的腸胃炎在時尚品牌員工、名流和編輯之間傳播。Still, editors and store buyers soldiered through four fashion 's a cheat sheet for what they saw--the highlights and the lows of the season.
不過，編輯和零售商們還是堅持走完了四座時尚城市。以下是對他們所見所聞――本季亮點和不盡人意之處――的簡單說明。Most Anticipated Debut
最受期待的處女秀Nicolas Ghesquière took the reins of Louis Vuitton from Marc Jacobs with a starkly new direction--both for the label and for fashion. Mr. Ghesquière is one of those designers who influences other designers. Today's trendy sweatshirts, gladiator sandals and neoprene clothes can all be traced back to his work designing Balenciaga. Now, in a sea of voluminous fabric, Mr. Ghesquière went slim, skinny and mini. It was a muted debut, but the message was clear.
尼古拉・蓋斯奇埃爾(Nicolas Ghesquiere)接替馬克・雅各布斯(Marc Jacobs)執掌路易威登(Louis Vuitton)後，帶領該品牌和時尚走向了嶄新的方向。蓋斯奇埃爾是一位能對其他設計師產生影響的人。今天那些時尚的運動衫、羅馬鞋和氯丁橡膠面料服裝都可溯及他爲巴黎世家(Balenciaga)所做的設計。如今，在超大服裝面料大行其道之時，蓋斯奇埃爾卻走出一條纖細、緊身和迷你的路線。這是一場無聲的處女秀，但釋放的信息卻非常清晰。Most Fun Show
最有趣的時裝秀Chanel's models, including Cara Delevingne and Joan Smalls, loaded up on shopping carts as they wandered through a supermarket erected in Paris's Grand Palais. Shelves were stocked with Chanel-logo milk, lentils, eggs, ham and other products such as 'noix de Coco' (Coco nuts). Guests snapped selfies in the aisles. Plus it was one of Karl Lagerfeld's best collections in years.
卡拉・迪瓦伊(Cara Delevingne)和瓊・斯莫斯(Joan Smalls)等香奈兒的模特在巴黎大皇宮(Grand Palais)裏搭建的一個超市裏一邊漫步，一邊往購物車裏裝東西。超市的貨架上擺放着帶有香奈兒標識的牛奶、小扁豆、雞蛋、火腿和椰子等商品。來賓們紛紛在過道上自拍。補充一句，這是卡爾・拉格菲爾德(Karl Lagerfeld)多年來最棒的設計系列之一。Most Overdone Trend
被詮釋得最過分的潮流Your Moncler puffer is so yesterday, having been surpassed by artful takes on the puffer from dozens of labels from Donna Karan to Balenciaga and Junya Watanabe--not to mention Christian Dior's puffer dress and Kenzo's puffer clutch bag. It was hard to find a collection without a quilt or puffer.
你那件蒙口(Moncler)羽絨服太落伍了，它已被唐娜・凱倫(Donna Karan)、巴黎世家和渡邊淳彌(Junya Watanabe)等幾十個品牌對羽絨服的巧妙詮釋超越――更不用說克里斯汀・迪奧(Christian Dior)的羽絨連衣裙和Kenzo的羽絨手抓包了。我們很難找到沒有絎縫或羽絨的時裝系列了。Silliest Look
最傻的裝扮How to riff off the chunky-sweater trend but still move forward? For some designers, the answer was this season's least-likely-to-hit-the-streets trend: the shag-rug sweater, coat or dress. Seen at Prada, Derek Lam, Tom Ford and Viktor & Rolf, this look is for those with strong fashion constitutions and poor central heating.
怎樣才能復現厚毛衣潮流，但仍然有所突破呢？對一些設計師來說，答案就是本季最不可能在街頭流行起來的潮流：粗毛毛衣、大衣或連衣裙。普拉達(Prada)、林達克(Derek Lam)、湯姆・福特(Tom Ford)和維果羅夫(Viktor & Rolf)都推出了這類時裝，它們適合那些緊追時尚，但身邊集中供暖設施欠佳的人。Chic-est Fete
最炫的招待會The opening of the Dries Van Noten exhibition at the Louvre's Musée des Arts Décoratifs drew notables from design icon Claude Montana to erotic-jewelry designer Betony Vernon. Champagne flowed, and guests spilled into the museum's stairwells. Mr. Van Noten --wearing his own version of camouflage pants--said he was stunned to be the subject of a Louvre retrospective. Curated by Pamela Golbin, who worked with the designer on it for two years, the exhibition explores the sources of Mr. Van Noten's creative psyche, which explains all those folded pieces of the British artist Francis Bacon's papers.
在盧浮宮(Louvre)裝飾藝術博物館(Musee des Arts Decoratifs)舉辦的德賴斯・範諾頓(Dries Van Noten)時裝展開幕式，吸引了設計界偶像人物克勞德・蒙塔納(Claude Montana)和情色珠寶設計師貝託尼・弗農(Betony Vernon)等名人。香檳開瓶後，來賓紛紛涌入樓梯間。身着個性版迷彩褲的範諾頓說，他根本想不到自己能在盧浮宮舉辦作品回顧展。該展覽的策展人帕梅拉・戈布林(Pamela Golbin)與設計師共同準備了兩年時間，展覽探討了戈布林創意靈感的來源，這就是爲什麼展廳裏有許多折起的文章，作者是英國藝術家弗蘭西斯・培根(Francis Bacon)。Hautest Sweatshirt
最高端的運動衫Just short of being forever typecast as the queen of Photoshop, Mary Katrantzou included not a single digital print on her London runway. Her mink sweatshirt with gold braiding from Her Majesty's braid maker is priced at $74,400. Two other looks were made not with scissors but with pliers, as butchers' aprons of chain mail were transformed into bias-cut dresses.
在倫敦時裝秀中，眼看就要被永久定位爲Photoshop女王的瑪麗・卡特蘭佐(Mary Katrantzou)卻未展示任何數碼印花作品。她那件帶金色穗帶（穗帶由女王陛下的御用穗帶製作商製作）的貂皮運動衫定價74,400美元。 另外兩套時裝不是用剪刀，而是用鉗子製作的，她把屠夫的鎖子甲圍裙改造成斜裁的裙裝。Clumsiest Collection
最拙劣的時裝系列Patience is running thin with Vionnet, a label that has had a new designer every few seasons. Now owned and designed by Russian oil-industry magnate Goga Ashkenazi, the label veered into awkward territory with ill-conceived clothes that appeared clumsily assembled. Bizarre cutouts climbed across the chests of several dresses. Ms. Ashkenazi's deep pockets and ad spending failed to pack the house.
人們越來越受不了薇歐奈(Vionnet)了，這個品牌每過幾季就會換一位新設計師。該品牌現在由俄羅斯石油業巨頭戈加・阿什克納季(Goga Ashkenazi)擁有和設計，已經變得非常糟糕，設計拙劣的衣服縫合得很蹩腳。幾條連衣裙的胸部有怪異的橫向開口。儘管阿什克納腰包鼓鼓，而且投入了鉅額廣告費，卻沒能取得什麼轟動效果。Front-Row Frisson
哪些人坐在第一排？Jann Wenner's sons Noah and Theo strode into Saint Laurent with a bottle of Champagne and sat in the first row by Allison Mosshart of the band the Kills. Nearby sat Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaïa and Pucci's Peter Dundas. Valerie Trierweiler, the French president's ex-girlfriend, was there, as were Catherine Deneuve, Jade Jagger, Kate Moss and a Thai princess. Now that is a front row--one with conversations you'd like to overhear. Best-second-row honors go to Valentino: Anna Wintour's second-row seat caused a fashion buzz, but she gave up a front-row seat to join a guest she brought along.
詹恩・溫納(Jann Wenner)的兒子諾厄(Noah)和西奧(Theo)拿着一瓶香檳走進 羅蘭(Saint Laurent)的服裝秀現場，在第一排緊挨“the Kills”樂隊的艾利森・莫斯哈特(Allison Mosshart)就座。坐在旁邊的還有讓-保羅・高緹耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)、阿瑟丁・阿拉亞(Azzedine Alaia)和璞琪(Pucci)的彼得・鄧達斯(Peter Dundas)。法國總統前女友瓦萊麗・特里耶韋萊(Valerie Trierweiler)也坐在這兒，還有凱瑟琳・德納芙(Catherine Deneuve)、傑德・賈格爾(Jade Jagger)、凱特・莫斯(Kate Moss)和一位泰國公主。既然這是第一排――你會禁不住想偷聽他們的談話。第二排就座的頂級大腕當屬瓦倫蒂諾(Valentino) 。安娜・溫圖爾坐在第二排引發了時尚圈的一陣竊竊私語，不過她放棄第一排座位是爲了和她帶來的一位嘉賓坐在一起。Fondest Return
最令人興奮的迴歸It's been years since the cobbler whose shoes are known by his first name showed his collections in New York. The Manolo Blahnik showroom was packed with adorers who treated his dainty confections with reverence verging on the religious. A video showed the designer at work in his studio, talking to himself and whispering to the shoes, as is his habit. (Who knew?)
製鞋大師馬諾洛・伯拉尼克(Manolo Blahnik)已經有很多年沒在紐約舉辦作品秀了。伯拉尼克的陳列室裏擠滿了崇拜者，他們帶着宗教般的敬畏欣賞伯拉尼克那些精緻的美鞋。視頻上放着這位設計師在工作室裏工作的場景，他有時自言自語，有時對着鞋子耳語，這是他的習慣。（誰知道呢？）Most Trustworthy Models
最靠譜的模特When you see clothes on runway models, you can only guesstimate how the clothes will translate on normal human bodies, and it is easy to assume they'll translate poorly. Rick Owens took out the guesswork by showing his spacey art house-chic collection on an array of models, from familiar runway gazelles to regular women of all ages, shapes, and shades--graying hair and all.
當你看到T型臺上模特們穿的時裝時，你只能臆測這些衣服穿在普通人身上效果如何，而效果不佳是很容易得出的判斷。針對人們的這種猜測，裏克・歐文斯(Rick Owens)讓各種各樣的模特試穿他充滿怪誕T臺時尚的時裝系列，其中既有人們熟悉的纖瘦模特，也有年齡、體型、膚色和髮色（包括頭髮灰白的女性）各異的普通女性。
