"第一個雌雄同體的模特"重發新專輯

Leslie Winer was, in the words of Jean-Paul Gaultier, "the first androgynous model." In the 1980s, her angular features landed her campaigns for Valentino and Miss Dior; covers of The Face and European editions of Vogue; and shoots with legendary photographers like Helmut Newton, Irving Penn and Pierre et Gilles. She fell into fashion by happenstance after moving to New York City from Massachusetts to attend the School of Visual Arts. There, she became a protégé of William Burroughs, partied hard and ran with the downtown demimonde of the era, dating Jean-Michel Basquiat for a time. Modeling, however, was just a job; music and writing were her true passions. "The fashion world was much smaller and less mainstream then than it is now," she says. "No one outside of fashion had any idea who you were. There wasn't the big money or the celebrity that occurred later."Modeling also brought Winer to London, where she became part of the orbit around Leigh Bowery's mid-'80s club night Taboo. The city's thriving post-punk and New Wave music scenes provided her with a circle of like-minded musicians, including Jah Wobble, the co-founder of John Lydon's post-Sex Pistols outfit Public Image Limited and Kevin Mooney, the bass player for Adam and the Ants. With them, she recorded the cult 1990 LP "Witch," which she released under the name ?. The album is now enjoying a second life, thanks to its release earlier this summer on the San Francisco-based reissue label Superior Viaduct.

用讓-保羅·高緹耶(Jean-Paul Gaultier)的話說，萊斯利·維納(Leslie Winer)是“第一個雌雄同體的模特”。在20世紀80年代，棱角分明的容貌讓她成爲華倫天奴(Valentino)和迪奧小姐(Miss Dior)的廣告代言人；登上了《The Face》和《Vogue》歐洲版的封面；與赫爾穆特·牛頓(Helmut Newton)、歐文·佩恩(Irving Penn)、皮埃爾和吉勒斯(Pierre et Gilles)等傳奇攝影師合作。她從馬薩諸塞州搬到紐約市上視覺藝術學校(School of Visual Arts)後偶然進入了時尚界。在那裏，她成了威廉姆·巴勒斯(William Burroughs)的門客，經常參加派對，混跡於那個時代的市中心風月場，與讓-米切爾·巴斯奎特(Jean-Michel Basquiat)交往過一段時間。不過對她來說，當模特只是個工作，音樂和寫作纔是她真正的愛好。“當時的時尚界比現在要小得多，沒這麼主流，”她說，“時尚圈外沒人知道你是誰。不像後來，當模特能掙大錢，成爲名人。” 模特工作還把維納帶到了倫敦，成爲利·鮑厄裏(Leigh Bowery)80年代中期的俱樂部禁忌(Taboo)的常客。這座城市蒸蒸日上的後朋克和新浪潮音樂，給她提供了一羣志同道合的音樂人朋友，包括約翰·林敦(John Lydon)在性手槍樂隊(Sex Pistols)之後的公共形象有限公司樂隊(Public Image Limited)的聯合創始人賈赫·沃伯(Jah Wobble)，以及亞當和螞蟻樂隊(Adam and the Ants)的貝斯手凱文·穆尼(Kevin Mooney)。1990年，她和他們一起錄製了密紋唱片《女巫》(Witch)，她以?的名字發佈。這張唱片現在迎來了第二春，今年夏天早些時候舊金山的舊唱片重發廠牌“優越高架橋”(Superior Viaduct)再次發行了它。

A compelling mix of sampled and programmed musical fragments and beats, breathy spoken word and ethereal singing, "Witch" still sounds fresh today. "I saw and listened to a lot of early hip-hop when I lived in New York," Winer recalls. The influence is apparent, along with reggae and dancehall elements that reflect her proximity to London's Caribbean community. There are echoes of "Witch" in the work of later'90s artists like Massive Attack and Portishead; the music journal NME once called Winer the "grandmother of trip-hop," though she says she's "not even sure what trip-hop is." The breezily transcendent "John Says," one of the album's highlights, appears here.

《女巫》混和了經過採樣和編程的音樂片段和節奏、氣聲低語和空靈的演唱，如今聽起來仍然很新鮮，令人歎服。“我住在紐約時看過、聽過很多早期嘻哈音樂，”維納回憶說。嘻哈音樂對這張唱片的影響很明顯，另外它也受到了雷鬼和舞廳雷鬼(dacehall)元素的影響，反映出她與倫敦的加勒比社區關係密切。90年代末的大舉進攻樂隊(Massive Attack)和Portishead樂隊等藝術團體的作品與《女巫》相似。音樂雜誌《新音樂快報》(NME)曾稱維納爲“trip-hop的祖母”，不過她說她自己“甚至不確定trip-hop是什麼”。輕鬆活潑、出類拔萃的《約翰常說》(John Says)是這張專輯中最精彩的歌曲之一。

Although "Witch" was a favorite of the legendary English radio DJ John Peel, and Winer went on to collaborate with Sinead O'Connor and Grace Jones, the album's release was greeted with near silence. In the late'90s, Winer settled in France, where she has raised five daughters and recorded and performed sporadically. She released a second album, 1999's "Spider," in an extremely limited edition with the help of her friend Helmut Lang.

雖然《女巫》是英國傳奇電臺DJ約翰·皮爾(John Peel)最喜歡的專輯之一，維納後來又和西尼德·奧康納(Sinead O'Connor)、格蕾絲·瓊斯(Grace Jones)合作過，但是這張專輯反響平平。90年代末，維納在法國定居，養了五個女兒，偶爾錄專輯、表演。1999年在朋友海爾姆特·朗(Helmut Lang)的幫助下發行了第二張專輯《蜘蛛》(Spider)，發行數量非常有限。

The reissue of "Witch" prompted Winer to reconnect with the producer Fachtna O'Ceallaigh, another of the album's original supporters, to work on new music. She has also recently published a volume of poetry, and serves as the executor of the Beat writer Herbert Huncke's literary estate. And she's even returned to modeling as the face of Vivienne Westwood's spring/summer 2014 campaign, shot by Juergen Teller. Like her music, Winer's life continues to write itself in unexpected ways.

《女巫》的再次發行讓維納和那張專輯最初的另一位支持者、製作人法切納·奧西萊(Fachtna O'Ceallaigh)再次聯繫上，繼續創作新的音樂。她最近還出版了一本詩集。她是垮掉派作家赫伯特·亨克爾(Herbert Huncke)的文學遺產執行人。她甚至迴歸到模特界，擔任薇薇安·韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)2014春夏廣告的代言人，攝影師是尤爾根·泰勒(Juergen Teller)。和她的音樂一樣，維納的生活繼續以不可預測的方式前行。

20世紀80年代一篇時裝社論上的維納。