米蘭頹廢青年的守護神(上)
Walk the streets of Milan's Ticinese district and you’ll see young people drinking freely in open spaces like Parco delle Basiliche and Piazza della Vetra – an odd sight for any American.
走在米蘭的提契諾（Ticinese）區的大街上，您會看到年輕人在諸如大教堂公園（Parco delle Basiliche）和米蘭大教堂公園（Piazza della Vetra）這樣的開放綠地暢飲，這對任何美國人而言都是奇怪的景象。
But it wasn’t always like this in Milan: ask around, and most locals will tell you that this relaxed attitude toward public intoxication began back in the 1960s with Bar Rattazzo and its owner, Pietro Rattazzo.
但米蘭並非總是如此：隨便打聽一下，大多數當地人都會告訴你，這種對公共場合酗酒的寬容態度還要追溯到 1960 年代的 Rattazzo 酒吧及其主人 Pietro Rattazzo。
Now in his 70s, Rattazzo still works behind the counter, flanked by bottles of Chartreuse and Aperol. The bar is a fixture in this area, famous for serving Milan’s most infamous characters for more than 50 years.
現在已經 70 多歲的 Rattazzo 依然在酒吧櫃檯後工作，在蕁麻酒（Chartreuse）和阿貝羅酒（Aperol）酒瓶之間穿梭忙碌。這家酒吧是米蘭的必去場所，五十多年來，它曾爲米蘭最臭名昭彰的人物提供服務，由此遠近聞名。
When I opened Bar Rattazzo with my wife in 1961, it was just anenoteca (wine bar). We served grappino (small glasses of grappa) and other wines I got cheap from the farms in Piedmont where my family worked, Rattazzo said.
Rattazzo 說，“ 1961 年我和妻子開辦這個酒吧時，它還只是個葡萄酒吧（wine bar）。我們曾供應 grappino （小杯格拉巴酒) 和其他紅酒，它們都是我從皮埃蒙特（Piedmont）家族農場很便宜進到的。”
His father had also run an enoteca, so it made sense to continue the family business. His experience paid off and business was good. The small shop continued in much the same way until the mid-1960s, when dramatic social changes transformed Bar Rattazzo from humble neighbourhood bar to the unofficial speakeasy of Milan's counterculture.
他的父親也開過葡萄酒吧，繼續經營家族生意也在情理之中。他的經驗有了回報，酒吧生意很好。酒吧經營一直都沒有多少變化，直到 1960 年代中期，社會發生鉅變，Rattazzo 也從一家不起眼的社區酒吧變爲米蘭一家反主流文化的地下酒吧。
The neighbourhood changed very quickly. I just changed with it, Rattazzo said matter-of-factly.
Rattazzo 淡淡地說道，“社會變化很快，我只是因勢而變。”
In the 1960s, the young generation of Italian students and workers was rejecting the status quo, demanding new rights and better education and threatening revolution. At that time, local governments in northern Italy were overwhelmed by an influx of workers from the south who came to work in factories churning out cars and machinery for companies like Fiat. Meanwhile, unions were losing their influence and leftist splinter groups were beginning to form. Unauthorized strikes were commonplace. The unions scrambled to reassert their influence by bringing the new groups into the fold, but the chaos continued.
1960 年代，意大利年輕一代學生和工人拒絕維持現狀，他們要求獲得新的權利和更好的教育，威脅要發起革命。當時，南部工人的涌入令意大利北部當地政府不堪重負，這些工人都在菲亞特等大量生產汽車和機器的工廠中工作。與此同時，工會的影響力日漸式微，極左翼的小派別開始形成。非法罷工司空見慣。爲重新確立影響力，工會中不斷涌現新的派別，但混亂仍在繼續。
Adding to the social unrest was an unprecedented number of students enrolling at the region's many universities, a result of legislation in 1962 guaranteeing education until age 14. With the increase in literacy, many students decided to continue on to higher education. Between 1960 and 1968, the number of students enrolling at universities in Italy increased by 180,000.
由於 1962 年通過立法，規定要保證 14 歲之前孩子的教育機會，該地區許多大學擴大招生，空前的學生數量更加劇了社會動盪。隨着文化素養的提高，許多學生決定繼續深造。1960-1968 年間，意大利大學招生人數增加 180,000 人。
Italy's universities were ill prepared. They were antiquated and unable – or unwilling – to adapt. Professors were often absent. Exams were oral and grading subjective. Students had to resort to teaching themselves. Dropout rates soared to almost 50%.
意大利的大學對此準備不足。它們過於陳舊，無力或者不願通過改變加以適應。教授們常常缺課。考試也靠口頭憑主觀打分。學生不得不依靠自學。輟學率飆升至近 50%。
Students flooded Milan, home to many of the country’s best universities. Cheap housing was in high demand and the Ticinese district was full of dormitories and apartments. Young workers and students began to outnumber the older, middle-class clientele who had been Rattazzo’s main customers.
學生們如潮水般涌入米蘭，這裏有意大利許多最好的大學。廉價房需求高漲，提契諾（Ticinese）區滿是學生宿舍和公寓。Rattazzo 酒吧的客人中，青年工人和學生人數開始超出年長的中產階級，而後者以往曾是酒吧的主要客人。
Rattazzo decided to sell cheap takeaway beers from a fridge to enjoy outside during the hot summer months – a novel idea at the time.
Rattazzo 酒吧決定在夏季售賣廉價的冰櫃外賣啤酒，當時這還是一個新鮮的想法。
