《美食祈禱和戀愛》Chapter 86 (199):遇見大姐
Wayan Nuriyasih is, like Ketut Liyer, a Balinese healer. There are some differences between them, though. He's elderly and male; she's a woman in her late thirties. He's more of a priestly figure, somewhat more mystical, while Wayan is a hands-on doctor, mixing herbs and medications in her own shop and taking care of patients right there on the premises.
奴里亞西大姐（WayanNuriyasih）和老四賴爺一樣，是巴釐治療師。不過他們有些不同。一位是老頭子，一位是年近四十的女人；賴爺是僧侶般的人物，具有神祕色彩，大姐則是具有實務經驗的醫師，在自己店裏調配草藥，並照料病患。
Wayan has a little storefront shop in the center of Ubud called "Traditional Balinese Healing Center." I'd ridden my bike past it many times on my way down to Ketut's, noticing it because of all the potted plants outside the place, and because of the blackboard with the curious handwritten advertisement for the "Multivitamin Lunch Special." But I'd never gone into the place before my knee got messed up. After Ketut sent me to find a doctor, though, I remembered the shop and came by on my bicycle, hoping somebody there might be able to help me deal with the infection.
大姐在烏布中心有個店面，名爲"巴釐傳統醫療中心"。我騎車去賴爺家途中多次路過；之所以留意到這家店，是因爲店外擺滿盆栽，並刊登"多種維他命午間特餐"的手寫告示。但在膝蓋受感染前，我未曾去過這個地方。然而賴爺要我去看醫生時，我想起這家店，於是騎車過來，希望有人幫我處理感染問題。
Wayan's place is a very small medical clinic and home and restaurant all at the same time. Downstairs there's a tiny kitchen and a modest public eating area with three tables and few chairs. Upstairs there's a private area where Wayan gives massages and treatments. There's one dark bedroom in the back.
大姐的店鋪是小型診所，併兼住家與餐館。樓下有個小廚房，還有個不太大的公衆用餐處，擺了三張桌子和幾把椅子。樓上是大姐給病患按摩、治療的專用區，後方則有間陰暗的臥室。
I limped into the shop with my sore knee and introduced myself to Wayan the healer—a strikingly attractive Balinese woman with a wide smile and shiny black hair down to her waist. There were two shy young girls hiding behind her in the kitchen who smiled when I waved to them, then ducked away again. I showed Wayan my infected wound and asked if she could help. Soon Wayan had water and herbs boiling up on the stove, and was making me drink jamu—traditional Indonesian homemade medicinal concoctions. She placed hot green leaves on my knee and it started to feel better immediately.
膝蓋疼痛的我一拐一拐地走進店裏，把自己介紹給治療師大姐——一位風采迷人的巴厘島女子，笑容可掬，亮麗的黑髮長及腰間。兩名小女孩躲在她身後的廚房裏，我朝她們揮手，她們露出笑容，而後又躲進去。我讓大姐看了一下感染的傷口，問她能否幫忙。不久，大姐將水和藥草擱在爐上煮，讓我喝"佳木"（jamu）湯劑——巴厘島傳統自制藥湯。她拿溫熱的綠葉敷在我的膝蓋上。我馬上開始感到好轉。
We got to talking. Her English was excellent. Because she is Balinese, she immediately asked me the three standard introductory questions—Where are you going today? Where are you coming from? Are you married?
我們談起話來。她的英語講得很好。她是巴厘島人，於是立即問我三個標準問題——"你今天要去哪裏？"，"你從哪裏來？"，"你結婚了嗎？"
