時尚廣告啓用新面孔的玄機 The Allure of the Unknown
Grace Dove had merely one credit in an obscure low-budget film and a recurring role in an action-adventure sports documentary series when she landed the pArt of the Native American wife of Leonardo DiCaprio’s fur trapper character in “The Revenant.”
格蕾絲·達夫(Grace Dove)在《荒野獵人》(The Revenant)中飾演萊昂納多·迪卡普里奧(Leonardo DiCaprio)飾演的皮草獵人的印第安妻子之前，僅出演過一部不出名的低成本電影，在一部動作冒險體育系列紀錄片中多次亮相。
This soon-to-be released Western thriller is directed by Alejandro G. Iárritu, whose “Birdman” swept the top Oscar categories in March. Once 20th Century Fox begins promoting his new $60 million wintery wilderness blockbuster, it is likely to emerge as a frontrunner in the 2016 Oscar race.
這部即將上映的西部驚悚片由亞歷杭德羅·G·伊尼亞里圖(Alejandro G. Iárritu)執導。今年3月，他執導的《鳥人》(Birdman)橫掃奧斯卡多項大獎。20世紀福克斯電影公司(20th Century Fox)開始宣傳他的這部投資6000萬美元的寒冷荒野大片之後，它很可能會成爲2016年奧斯卡競賽的領跑者。
And Ms. Dove — the only woman in the movie’s all-star male cast — may have a shot at landing a major fashion advertising campaign.
這部電影的陣容幾乎全是男明星，達夫是唯一的女演員。她可能會給一個著名時裝公司拍廣告。
In recent years, there has been a growing divide between brands using under-the-radar talent and those loyal to Hollywood’s A-list actors who, for years, have dominated major luxury campaigns and filled ambassador roles. The attractions of less well-known faces seem to be as varied as a conviction that they best represent the brand and a desire for the sense of insider cool conveyed by a front row or ad model whom only the select will recognize.
近些年，時裝品牌在選擇代言人方面的差別越來越明顯，有的選用不出名的新秀，有的則忠於好萊塢一線演員。多年來，大部分奢侈品廣告都選用這些一線演員，請他們擔任品牌大使。不太出名的面孔的吸引力取決於，品牌是否認爲某張新面孔最能代表自己，是否渴望得到只有圈內人才認識的頭排名人或廣告模特所傳達的那種優越感。
The mechanics of these agreements — how designers make their casting calls and selections for brand representation — is top secret. But they are always monitoring the film festival circuit and, since the awards season began Sunday with the Governors Awards in Hollywood, they are watching the red carpet, too, and will begin to deluge talent with offers to dress them for premieres and ceremonies.
這些協議的內幕——設計師如何要求試鏡和爲品牌挑選代言人——是頂級機密。不過，設計師們一直在關注各大電影節。隨着週日（11月29日）理事會獎(Governors Awards)拉開好萊塢頒獎季的大幕，他們也在關注紅毯，並將開始向某些藝人伸出橄欖枝，表明他們願意提供參加首映式和典禮的服裝。
Casting unknowns can be cost-efficient for everything from advertisements to fashion films, the lavish commercials that are produced with increasing frequency as offshoots of traditional photography campaigns. And while it may be risky, if the brand’s choice proves to be a big hit — it also looks smart.
選用不出名的演員代言能極大節約從廣告到時裝電影各個方面的成本。時裝電影指的是奢華的廣告片，作爲傳統平面廣告的衍生物，而今它們的拍攝頻率越來越高。雖然這樣做可能有點冒險，但是如果一個品牌挑選的代言人後來成了紅人，那麼這也會顯得很明智。
Social media has driven the development, granting brands unprecedented power to communicate their work directly to the customer, and a performer’s social media clout can be considered in the casting call process. Kendall Jenner’s Estée Lauder contract, for instance, was said to have come her way partly because she had 15 million followers on Instagram
社交媒體也推動了這一趨勢的發展，讓品牌擁有前所未有的與顧客直接交流的能力。演員的社交媒體影響力也成爲挑選代言人的一個考慮因素。比如，據說肯德爾·詹納(Kendall Jenner)能爲雅詩蘭黛(Estée Lauder)代言的一個原因在於她在Instagram上有1500萬粉絲。
By contrast, actresses who appear in Miu Miu’s fall 2015 campaign, including Maddison Brown, Hailey Gates and Mia Goth, have a combined Instagram following of about 38,700. Stacy Martin, the brunette beauty who also is the face of Miu Miu’s new perfume, and the Prada men’s wear model Michael Shannon do not use social media at all.
相比之下，爲Miu Miu2015年秋季系列代言的女演員們在Instagram上的粉絲總計約3.87萬，包括麥迪遜·布朗(Maddison Brown)、黑莉·蓋茨(Hailey Gates)和米婭·戈特(Mia Goth)。Miu Miu新香水的代言人、黑髮美女斯塔茜·馬丁(Stacy Martin)以及普拉達(Prada)的男裝模特邁克爾·香農(Michael Shannon)則完全不用社交媒體。
Miuccia Prada — who since the late ’90s has reserved the roles in Prada men’s wear campaigns for character actors and in Miu Miu campaigns for rising actresses — said actors have the power to humanize fashion and to relate the story behind her seasonal collections.
繆西婭·普拉達(Miuccia Prada)從90年代末開始選用性格男演員爲普拉達男裝代言，選用新秀女演員爲Miu Miu代言。她說，演員能賦予時裝人性，闡述每一季服裝背後的故事。
“Cinema has always been one of my true interests and passions,” Ms. Prada said. “With Miu Miu, and the men’s, I like to underline the narration of a character, a personal story. The cast of Miu Miu, season by season, is chosen to reinforce the attitude and the idea of the moment.”
普拉達說：“電影一直是我真正感興趣和熱愛的事物之一。在Miu Miu和男裝方面，我想強調人物的敘述，講述一個人的故事。每一季Miu Miu選擇的代言人都是爲了強調當時的態度和觀點。”
Some experts question the power a new face can command in selling fashion.
有些專家質疑新面孔在時裝銷售上的號召力。
Peter Hess, co-head of the Commercial Endorsement division at Creative Artists Agency, is skeptical about the influence of unknowns in fashion advertising, although he concedes there are “tiers of this work.”
創新藝人經紀公司(Creative Artists Agency)廣告支持部聯合主管彼得·赫斯(Peter Hess)對不出名的演員在服裝廣告方面的影響力表示質疑，雖然他也承認，“這份工作有很多層次”。
“Brands engage the finest photographers, hair stylists and makeup designers — and if a budget for an advertising campaign is in the millions, the actors which brands go with usually have a proven track record,” Mr. Hess said. But then he represents influential entertainment professionals, including Julia Roberts, Jennifer Lawrence, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicole Kidman, Kate Winslet, Bradley Cooper and Clive Owen.
赫斯說：“品牌需要聘請最好的攝影師、髮型師和化妝師。如果一支廣告的成本有上百萬美元，那麼品牌挑選的演員通常具有豐富的經歷和經驗。”但是之後，他列舉了一些具有影響力的娛樂專家，包括朱莉葉·羅伯茨(Julia Roberts)、詹妮弗·勞倫斯(Jennifer Lawrence)、薩拉·傑西卡·帕克(Sarah Jessica Parker)、妮可·基德曼(Nicole Kidman)、凱特·溫斯利特(Kate Winslet)、布拉德利·庫珀(Bradley Cooper)和克萊夫·歐文(Clive Owen)。
At Saint Laurent Paris, plum modeling assignments have been reserved for musicians since Hedi Slimane became creative director of the brand in March 2012. He has cast promising players, forgotten rock gods and obscure names from the grunge scene in Los Angeles (where he and the Saint Laurent Paris atelier are based) on the men’s wear runway, in the front row at fashion shows and also for the Saint Laurent Paris seasonal Music Project ad campaign.
自從2012年3月艾迪·斯里曼(Hedi Slimane)開始擔任巴黎聖羅蘭時裝公司(Saint Laurent)的創意總監之後，他把報酬豐厚的模特代言工作留給了音樂人，挑選有前途的樂手、被遺忘的搖滾巨星，以及洛杉磯垃圾搖滾(grunge)場景中一些不爲人所知的人物（他和巴黎聖羅蘭工作室就在洛杉磯），讓他們擔任男裝秀的模特，坐在時裝秀的頭排，擔任巴黎聖羅蘭季節音樂活動和宣傳的代言人。
The musicians do evoke the decadent, renegade spirit of Saint Laurent Paris, but Mr. Slimane has also said that he admires them simply “because they know how to move on stage.”
音樂人的確與巴黎聖羅蘭頹廢叛逆的氣質相符，不過斯里曼稱，他喜歡音樂人只是“因爲他們知道如何在舞臺上走步”。
It is true that an unknown has little chance of being captured by the paparazzi brandishing a designer’s latest handbag, which a celebrity brand ambassador is expected to do. But what might make the untried and untested attractive to mega-brands is lack of baggage — be it a rehab stint, Church of Scientology escape plan rumors or a propensity to ghost a former mate or consciously uncouple.
的確，不出名的代言人極少有機會被狗仔隊拍到炫耀設計師的最新款手袋，而這是品牌對明星代言人的一種期望。但是沒有嘗試過或考驗過的演員對大品牌的吸引力在於他們沒有負面新聞——不管是強制戒毒、傳說中的山達基教會(Church of Scientology)解救計劃，還是喜歡糾纏或故意疏遠前伴侶。
“Many fashion houses go with lesser-known names because someone A-list has the ability to overshadow the designs,” Miceala Erlanger said. She is the Hollywood stylist whose vision was integral in transforming Lupita Nyong’o from an MTV Africa soap opera star to the winner of the best supporting actress Oscar in 2014 for “12 Years A Slave.”
好萊塢造型師米希拉·厄蘭格(Miceala Erlanger)說：“很多時裝公司選用不太出名的演員是因爲有些一線演員會掩蓋設計的光彩。”她的設計幫助露皮塔·尼永奧(Lupita Nyong’o)從MTV非洲肥皂劇明星蛻變爲2014年奧斯卡最佳女配角獎獲得者（憑藉《爲奴十二年》[12 Years A Slave]）。
In the process, Ms. Erlanger helped Ms. Nyong’o clinch a Miu Miu campaign, as well as become a brand ambassador for Lanc洀攀 Paris, which also has featured star veterans such as Ms. Roberts and Ms. Winslet. Ms. Erlanger believes working with an unknown actor can enhance a brand’s caché. “By picking up-and-coming actors, it appears to the outside viewer that the brand is endorsing them,” she said.
在這個過程中，厄蘭格幫助尼永奧得到爲Miu Miu代言的一個機會，併成爲巴黎蘭蔻(Lanc洀攀)的品牌大使。蘭蔻也是主要選用資深明星，比如羅伯茨和溫斯利特。厄蘭格認爲，與不出名的演員合作能充實名牌的儲備庫。她說：“在外人看來，品牌選擇有前途的演員是在支持那些演員。”
Dressing an actor who is just breaking into stardom may be a risk for a brand, but history shows that it has led some designers to forge enduring relationships, which, over time, have lent value to their brands and helped them connect with tomorrow’s customer.
爲初露頭角的演員設計服裝對品牌來說也許有些冒險，但是歷史表明，這也讓有些設計師能與演員達成長久關係，這種關係經過時間的沉澱能增加品牌的價值，幫助品牌與未來的顧客產生聯繫。
In 1979, Giorgio Armani initiated the practice of working with young actors as promotional partners.
1979年，喬治·阿瑪尼(Giorgio Armani)開創了聘請年輕演員擔任宣傳夥伴的做法。
