教你職場如何穿着牛仔褲

Power jeans are increasingly common in high-ranking business and political circles. Indeed, jeans are now a legitimate part of the global power-dress lexicon, worn to influential confabs where the wearers want to signal they're serious--but not fussy--and innovative.

在商界和政界高層圈子裏，大人物穿仔褲亮相正變得越來越常見。實際上，牛仔褲如今成爲了全球大人物着裝詞彙中的一個正當部分，在一些重要會議中時有亮相，穿着者希望以此表示他們既認真──但不挑剔──又具創新精神。

The look started with the young but has crossed into gray-haired circles.
這一風格源自年輕人，但已經擴散到了中年階層。

Chosen well, jeans can suggest the wearer is confident and modern. Traditionally cut blue jeans carry a whiff of the laborer about them, so denim on a leader suggests a willingness to roll up the sleeves and dig in. There's also something of the rebel in a pair of jeans. In the boardroom, that can read as creative.

選擇得當的話，牛仔褲可以傳達穿着者自信摩登的特質。傳統剪裁的藍色牛仔褲帶有一種勞動者的氣息，因此領導者穿着仔褲可以表達一種願意捲起袖子大幹一場的意思。穿着牛仔褲還有一種叛逆的意味。在會議室，牛仔褲則透着創新的感覺。

But jeans must be carefully paired with a pressed shirt and good shoes to be elevated to business class. And some industries haven't (yet) become open to denim as power wear. Banks and accounting-firm boardrooms, for instance, remain decidedly woolen. New York-based career adviser Jonscott Turco says jeans are generally a "no-brainer" in the media, manufacturing and creative industries, but not in financial services and law firms.
不過，牛仔褲必須精心搭配熨燙平整的襯衫和上好的鞋子，才能提升到商務層次。一些行業的正式着裝迄今仍未對牛仔褲敞開大門。例如，銀行和會計師事務所的會議室仍然是毛料西裝的天下。駐紐約的職業諮詢師約斯科特·圖爾科說，穿牛仔褲在媒體、製造業和創新行業中通常沒什麼大不了的，但在金融服務和律師事務所中就不是這樣。

It's also possible to go awry with the wrong jeans in the right place. Barack Obama, whose wife and children have been heralded as fashion icons, was ridiculed for wearing dorky "dad jeans" (baggy and high-rise) to pitch at an All-Star game. When Tony Blair wore jeans to meet George Bush two years ago, the British prime minister was criticized for his pants' snug fit.

此外，也有可能在正確的地點穿着錯誤的牛仔褲。巴拉克·奧巴馬的妻子孩子一直被視爲時尚標誌，但他本人卻因爲穿着過時的“老爸褲”（鬆鬆垮垮的高腰牛仔褲）爲全美職業棒球大聯盟全明星賽開球而遭奚落。兩年前，當時的英國首相布托尼·萊爾穿着仔褲會見美國總統喬治·布什，因爲仔褲過於貼身而遭到批評。

To wit, fit is as essential for jeans as for tailored slacks. Eric Jennings, Saks Fifth Avenue men's fashion director, suggests that men keep their executive jeans "dark and straight". And never dress as if the jeans had been switched out from formal suit pants at the last minute: No fancy French-cuffed shirts with jeans, he advises.
也就是說，合身是牛仔褲的根本要素，就像定做的西褲一樣。精品百貨店薩克斯第五大道的男裝時尚總監埃裏克·傑寧斯建議，如果要穿牛仔褲參加商務場合，男人應當穿着深色的直筒牛仔褲。他建議說，千萬不要顯得好像最後一刻才脫下正式的套裝西褲換上牛仔褲：不要用配西褲的花哨法式袖口襯衫搭配牛仔褲。

In fact, getting power jeans right involves lots of no's. No distressed jeans at work. No metal studs. No acid washes. No lavish embroidery. No boot cut. No skinny. No pedal pushers, shorts or cutoffs. No baggy high-rise. No super-low-rise. No holes. And no fussy ironing.
實際上，將顯示權威的仔褲穿對還有諸多忌諱。不要在工作時穿做舊的洞洞牛仔褲。誇張的金屬配飾、水洗磨白、華麗的繡花、喇叭褲、超瘦牛仔褲、七分褲、熱褲或是半截褲、鬆垮的高腰、超低腰、破洞，這些全都是禁忌。也不要刻意熨燙。

We have Steve Jobs to thank for today's power jeans. His uniform of Levi's 501s and a black turtleneck was synonymous with innovation in the '90s; now, in the tech world, dressy pants can be viewed with suspicion. "When someone shows up to an interview or meeting in anything other than jeans, it shows inexperience and a lack of confidence," says Andrew Dumont, vice president of marketing for text-messaging company Tatango.
今天牛仔褲成爲大人物的新寵還要感謝蘋果公司首席執行長史蒂夫·喬布斯。他那身李維斯501牛仔褲配黑色高領套頭衫的經典着裝在上世紀九十年代就是創新的同義詞；如今在科技領域，穿着西褲會引來懷疑的目光。文本信息公司Tatango負責營銷的副總裁安德魯·杜蒙特說，（在科技行業）如果一個人接受採訪或參加會議時穿的不是牛仔褲，就會顯得不夠老練和缺乏自信。