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愛馬仕新款絲巾詮釋色彩精髓

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愛馬仕新款絲巾詮釋色彩精髓

One of the Art world's most coveted accessories this summer is a limited-edition Hermes scarf by Hiroshi Sugimoto.

今年夏季藝術世界最令人眼熱的飾品之一當屬杉本博司(Hiroshi Sugimoto)爲法國奢侈品品牌愛馬仕(Hermes)設計的限量版絲巾。

'I believe that art can be wearable,' says the contemporary artist, who based his line on a long-running project of his called 'Couleurs de l'Ombre,' or 'Colors of Shadow,' that was inspired by Isaac Newton's studies of color.

這位當代藝術家說,“我相信藝術可以穿上身。”他是根據一個做了很長時間的項目設計出這個絲巾系列的,該項目名爲“影子的顏色”(Couleurs de l'Ombre),靈感源自牛頓(Isaac Newton)對顏色的研究。

Mr. Sugimoto created 20 multicolored designs for Hermes, which offers seven of each. Since mid-June, when the French luxury brand unveiled the 140-centimeter-square scarves at Art Basel, it has been selling them online for 7,000 (about $8,820). Two of the styles have already sold out.

杉本博司爲愛馬仕設計了20款彩色絲巾,每款限量發售七條。6月中旬愛馬仕在巴塞爾藝術博覽會(Art Basel)上推出了這批140釐米長的方巾,官網售價7,000歐元(約合8,820美元)。其中有兩款現在已經賣完了。

In Asia, Hermes plans to kick off a 'Couleurs de l'Ombre' show in Tokyo in November, followed by Singapore in January, in conjuction with Art Stage Singapore. The two cities have strong followings for Hermes's label as well as Mr. Sugimoto, who is best known for his photography-based work.

在亞洲地區,愛馬仕計劃於11月在東京舉行名爲“影子的顏色”的展示會,隨後將於明年1月份在新加坡與“藝術登陸新加坡”(Art Stage Singapore)博覽會合作舉行展覽。東京和新加坡這兩座城市都有大批愛馬仕品牌和杉本博司的擁躉。杉本博司以創作基於攝影的作品而享有盛譽。

The collaboration is the third and most successful of a series of initiatives with Hermes and artists, including the late painter Josef Albersin 2008 and conceptual artist Daniel Burenin 2010.

這是愛馬仕與藝術家的第三次合作,也是歷次合作中最成功的一次。在此之前,愛馬仕分別在2008年和2010年與已故畫家阿伯斯(Josef Albers)及概念派藝術家布倫(Daniel Buren)開展過合作。

Mr. Sugimoto, whose work is included in the collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Artin New York and Tate Gallery in London, said that he agreed to the project after Hermes heir and artistic director Pierre-Alexis Dumas visited him in Tokyo a few years ago. Mr. Sugimoto showed him a floor-to-ceiling-height crystal prism that he installed in his studio after 10 years of meticulous planning and design. Engrossed by the way light shone through the facets and projected colors onto his white walls, 'I proposed to him to transpose the colors onto Hermes silk scarves,' Mr. Sugimoto said.

杉本博司的作品在紐約大都會藝術博物館(Metropolitan Museum of Art)和倫敦泰特美術館(Tate Gallery)都有收藏。杉本博司說,愛馬仕繼承人、藝術總監迪馬(Pierre-Alexis Dumas)幾年前到東京拜訪了他,之後他同意與愛馬仕開展項目合作。杉本博司給迪馬看了一個下及地板、上及天花板的透明棱鏡,這是他經過10年的精心規劃和設計後在自己的工作室裏安裝的。杉本博司說,他對光通過琢面照射的方式以及投射在白 上的色彩很着迷,因此“我建議迪馬把這些顏色運用在愛馬仕的絲巾設計上。”

Color has long fascinated Mr. Sugimoto. In 2009 and 2010, working on the 'Couleurs' project, he recalled waking up at 5:30 a.m. to capture Tokyo's morning light with an old Polaroid.

杉本博司長期以來一直對色彩非常着迷。2009年和2010年期間杉本博司在做一個名爲“色彩”(Couleurs)的項目,他記得當時自己每天早晨五點半起牀,用一臺舊的寶麗來相機(Polaroid)捕捉東京清晨的光線。

He and Mr. Dumas selected 20 images to turn into scarves. Hermes technicians spent months working with Mr. Sugimoto to interpret the 'infinite gradation' that he envisioned on silk twill with a special inkjet printer.

他和迪馬挑選了20幅圖片,在此基礎上設計絲巾。愛馬仕的技師們花了幾個月的時間與杉本博司合作,以詮釋他的設計構思。杉本博司的設想是,用一臺特殊的噴墨打印機在真絲斜紋綢上表現“無限漸變”。

'The world is filled with countless colors, so why did natural science insist on just seven?' Mr. Sugimoto said. 'I believe you can get a truer sense of the world from those disregarded intra-colors.'

杉本博司說,“這個世界充斥着無數的色彩,爲什麼自然科學非要說世界上只有七種顏色呢?我相信,通過那些被人忽視的細分色彩,你可以獲得對世界更真實的感知。”